Replaces
Recommended for your 2011 Chevrolet Malibu
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
In this video we show you how to replace a front hub on this 2006 Chevy Malibu, same as any 04 to 08 Malibu as well as the Pontiac G6. You know if you have a bad hub if you jack the front wheel off the ground, and you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and shake it and feel play and then you can also grab each side left and right, shake it and feel the same play. That kind of four-angled play is usually because of a bad hub. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, various sockets 13 to 19 mm plus a 35 mm socket with ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, flat blade screwdriver, large hammer, wire brush and a torque wrench.
Start out by using a 19 mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. You're going to remove the lug nuts, and if you don't have air tools, you'll want to have the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Also at this point, you'll want to loosen that 35 mm hub nut. I do have the benefit of having an impact wrench, so I'm able to do that afterwards, but if you don't have an impact wrench, you want to use a breaker bar and a 35 mm socket and loosen that center hub nut now while the wheel is on the ground.
Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. The first thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14 mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts. Now your disc should come off, but since there are some pretty decent ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screwdriver and pry out with this hole and that kind of loosens up the caliper, and the caliper comes right off. Put it up there for now, and you can just kind of pry out your pads.
Now we need to remove this caliper bracket, so we'll remove two 15 mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter, so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, gives you extra leverage and it comes apart pretty easily. The same thing top one. Get it started.
I'm just going to speed it up here again as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them probably three or four turns then they actually came out by hand. Comes over, pulls right off. Right up here is your ABS harness with a little tab pull that down, disconnect that, then just use a screwdriver, push these tabs down and pull the plug off. I take a 35 mm bolt here for the hub. As I said earlier, if you don't have the benefit of impact tools or air tools, you'll want to loosen this hub nut while the wheel is still on and the vehicle is on the ground.
Now your axle you don't want to make it a habit to just beat on this mercilessly with the hammer. What I do is I give it one good tap, and I watch closely, and if that axle moves with one good hit, you know it's broken loose. You don't have to worry too much about it. Okay, the axle moved, so I should be able to get it apart, no problem. If the axle doesn't move with the tap of a hammer, then you'll need to use an axle puller which bolts onto your lug and then use the bolt to push the axle through.
Next we're going to remove the three bolts that hold the hub. Okay, one is up there, one there and one around the back side is kind of hidden tucked right in there. These bolts, especially the top one, you're going to want probably 3/8 drive tools, because they're skinnier, and they allow you go get in there. I'm going to get a pretty good-sized flexible handle and try that. I can use my pipe for a little more leverage. These should come apart pretty easily. At this point I'll speed it up. Use the pipe for the extra leverage, get the bolts loosened up and then you can go at it with the ratchet and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to turn your steering knuckle so that you can reach the third nut on the backside and then just remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts out, good there. I'm going to speed it up here. Basically you just hit it side to side, up and down and you'll see the hub start to separate from the steering knuckle and then eventually it comes loose, then you can pull it right off. Take the hub off, and your backing plate off. Just kind of wire tied my brake caliper up there. Use a screwdriver and a wire brush to just kind of clean the corrosion from the steering knuckle.
It may need a light coat of grease. It really helps things go back together. You can use some penetrating oil or just regular oil. Take your backing plate and I'm just going to put that in place. Your connector one you want to have that up toward the rear, through the backing plate and put your connector up and through and push on the CV a little bit. Make sure that your electro connector is toward the rear and get the hub onto the axle, spin this around in the correct position, put one of your bolts through. Push everything into place. I'll speed it up here again. You push the hub on, make sure it's in place correctly, start the other two bolts. All the time you're doing this just make sure that ABS wire doesn't get pinched in there anywhere and tighten up those bolts.
Make sure your wire is pulled through, and it's free and put the receptacle right up and clip it into place and I'll reconnect it. Tighten these bolts to hold the hub to the steering knuckle with 65 foot pounds. I'll just speed it up here. Turn the steering knuckle and tighten up the other two again to 65 foot pounds.
New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on. Take a lug nut. Bolt it into place here. Now take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disc, put your bolt in, find its way. These bolts you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds. Put this one on the front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here, bring your caliper down right on top, two bolts. These two bolts you want to tighten to 35 foot pounds. Once you have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand, and then I'm just use my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminarily.
Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern, now torque your center hub nut, the 35 mm nut with 159 foot pounds, put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not least before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times, get the pedal to feel nice and firm when you have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm John from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and the next time you need a car for your vehicle, think of the 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace front struts on this 2007 Pontiac G6. Very much the same for any 2005-2010 G6 as well as the Saturn Aura. We're going to show you the right hand side. The left hand side is the same procedure and we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. And speaking of struts you want to get a nice new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We sell both brand name as well as private label: Jack and Jack stands, 10, 18, and 19 mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, and 18 mm wrench and a hammer.
Start out by using just the socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use impact or air tools sometimes. If you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire and grab the suspension and turn the wheels or turn them with the steering wheel and there's a 10 mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the strut, remove that.
There are 2, 18 mm nuts on the back side of the strut. You want to use a ratchet, using a breaker bar and a pipe or something here for some extra leverage might be in order but you can see on our vehicle they come off with just a good amount of force. Use an 18 mm wrench to grab onto the nuts part of the stud of the stabilizer link and then use an 18 mm socket. Loosen up the nut and then it comes off. Use a hammer, be careful not to damage the bolts too much. You might want to put a nut on the back of them and although ours came out pretty easy, and just drive those bolts right out. Heading up top underneath the hood, there are three 13 mm bolts that hold the top of the strut in place and we'll fast forward as we remove those. You can remove 2 of them and then just loosen one up most of the way.
And as you're taking that last nut off, you can just keep your hand on the strut and as you take the nut off you will be able to lower the strut out. And then put the strut back in place and yes, you probably will notice that we're just putting the old strut back in. The struts in this car were in fine shape and so we're not usually ones to waste putting a new strut into a car that doesn't need them. We're just kind of doing this to show you how to do it but you put it into place, start one of the nuts on top and then start the other two and you can tighten those up and the top nuts you should torque to 20 to 25 foot pounds.
Back down under now, lift your brake hub assembly and steering knuckle back in to the strut. You can force it in there and you put one of the bolts in, and just kind of put it in a little bit and then as you move the knuckle around on the strut you should be able to get the bolt through. Then make sure you put the bracket back into place and you can get the second bolt through and if you like use a hammer or something just to drive the bolts all the way through. And it should be noted that we do recommend an alignment after you do this because the movement of these struts is something that affects the caster and camber of your wheels.
And torque those nuts to 85 foot pounds. Bring the sway bar link back into place and should you possibly feel the need to replace those sway bar links, 1AAuto.com, we sell those as well but then use a 18 mm wrench and an 18 mm socket and ratchet to tighten up that bolt. That bolt should be tightened somewhere around 70 to 75 foot pounds. Put the bracket that holds your brake hose back into place and start the 10 mm bolt on and tighten it up. Please install the wheel and put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them then tighten them preliminarily.
the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hubcap and I'm going to do that with that 19 mm socket and then I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hubcap for the valve stem and I'll go ahead and fast forward through that.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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