Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Shock Absorbers (2) Front Shock & Spring Assemblies
Specification
Location
Front & Rear
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Shock and Spring Assembly 2002-09 GMC Envoy
How To Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2002-09 Chevy Trailblazer
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2002-09 GMC Envoy
How to Replace Rear Shocks 2002-09 GMC Envoy
Created on:
Tools used
24mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Floor Jack
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're going to remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all, and then remove the wheel. Now that we have the wheel off of here, we have a clear view of our front strut. Let's start off by spraying everything that's going to need to come apart with some penetrant. Right down here, let's go ahead and get a little bit right in there for the threads.
Up along this area, go ahead and spray that bolt. And then, of course, this area up top, you're going to see right along the top of this strut tower there's two studs that come up. We're going to spray those so the nuts will come off. Right down this side too. Use your 24-millimeter socket to remove this nut. The next thing we need to do is separate this lower portion from the stud right here. To do that, you can use a punch with a hammer and try to come from this side and drive it out towards the front or, of course, if you have an air chisel like I do. So that broke free. That's perfect.
The next thing we need to do is get up top underneath the hood. So now under the hood, as you can tell, we can see the nuts on the top of those struts. We're not going to touch the center one. Do not touch that. Do this one right here and that one over there. These are 18-millimeter. Here's one nut. I'm just going to start it on there just a couple of threads. Remove the other one. All right. There's that one. Get the other one off. Let's go back into the wheel well. Let's go ahead and grab onto that. Pull it aside and then carefully drop it down and remove it from the vehicle.
Now that we have this out of the vehicle, we're going to go ahead and hold onto the bolt side of this with our 18-millimeter and then remove the nut side also with an 18-millimeter. Now I'm going to come from the other side with my air gun here or use whatever you want to remove this, but spin it out. Go ahead and put our nut on there just a little bit so we don't damage the threads and then give it a couple of loving bonks. That's moving right along. Take it right out. Something that we want to pay attention to before we go too much further is the orientation of this piece right here.
If you were to look at it, you're going to see it would run directly along here, and it's going to line up with one of the studs. It doesn't matter which one, just make sure it does line up when you come time to install. Now it's going to be time to go ahead and try to get this off of here. Something to pay attention to is the fact that we're going to have to hit it with a hammer. We're going to be trying to drive it off of the strut itself. As it starts coming off, there's also the possibility that it could come flying off and potentially hurt you.
Obviously, nobody wants you to get hurt. So I just want to mention, be careful for where this goes when it comes off. Grab your hammer or whatever you might have and go ahead and give it a couple of bonks. You might happen to notice that it just doesn't want to come off of there. If that's the case, go ahead and hit it with some more penetrant. Once you have a good amount of penetrant in there, go ahead and use a nice chisel or a punch, whatever you have that's going to be able to spread these ears a little bit.
As we spread these, something to pay attention to is you don't want to keep spreading them until the point where they start to crack or get brittle. You definitely don't want to damage this piece in any way. As I just spreaded those ears, what I saw was this started to let go. I'm going to give it a little wiggle. This is great. Just try to work that penetrant in there. So we got our new strut here. One of the first things we need to do to get this into the vehicle is, of course, get that bottom piece on there. To do that we're going to put a nice piece of wood on the floor, and we're going to turn this upside down.
I'm going to rest it just like this. Pay attention to where those studs are. Okay? Because that was important. I mentioned it before. When we go to install this, we want this arm that's coming out going in a straight line. You can see there's a dot, a dot, a stud. Try to make it a nice straight line. If you put it like this, obviously, it's going to cause an issue when it comes time to install. So we'll get it as close as possible. Now that we've got that nice and covered, let's go ahead and get this lined up straight as possible here. Oh, it looks pretty great.
Give it a couple of loving bonks. Now, as I'm doing this, you can tell the reason why I wanted to use wood on the bottom there. We've got all those studs coming down, and the last thing I want to do is mess anything up. As we bring this down, you're going to want to keep going until it bottoms out on this ridge right here. Looks like it's pretty much there. Double-check it all the way around just to make sure it's completely seated. So now let's take our unit. We're going to slide it right in, get it up into those, and then slide it on this stud down here.
Everything should line up perfectly. If it doesn't, and for some reason, you can't get it in here or you can't line up the top, obviously, the issue is right here. You just didn't line it up properly. I usually like to put a tiny bit of threadlocker on this right here, and then we'll get the nut on. We'll bottom it out. Let's go ahead and torque this to 81 foot-pounds as well. It's going to be time to put in the lower bolt for the strut here. Goes through from the inside or towards the inside of the vehicle here and then going out. Let's go ahead and bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer's specifications.
Now we're going to torque this to 81 foot-pounds. There we are. Let's take our two upper mounting nuts. We'll get those on. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications as well. Torque these to 33 foot-pounds. It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replaced. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here. Bring the vehicle down so the tire's just barely touching the ground so it can't spin. And then torque the wheels in a criss-cross manner to 103 foot-pounds.
Now it's going to be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem, and then go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
Socket Extensions
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Remove the shock absorber
It is recommended to raise and secure the vehicle, but it is possible to do this with the vehicle on the ground.
Remove the 18 mm bolts at each of the strut by securing one end of the bolt with the wrench and use the socket and ratchet to remove the bolt from the nut.
2. install the new shock
Insert the shock into its mount and thread the bolt though.
Repeat with the bottom end of the strut.
Tighten the nut and bolts with your socket and ratchet and wrench
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. In this video, we're going to show you rear shock removal and replacement on this 2004 Trail Blazer, same as most of these mid-size SUVs. Tools you'll need are 18 mm socket with a ratchet and extension, and also an 18 mm wrench, and you probably would want jack and jack stands to raise and support the vehicle, but not totally necessary.
So to replace your rear shocks, as you can see I still have the tire on the truck, and you could actually do this on the ground, although it will cause a little clearance issue as you try and remove this lower bolt. But it's possible, you can do it on the ground. So there's that lower bolt, and there's a bolt up high right there. And if you are jacking your vehicle up, you can see my lift is under the frame. And then I have a bottle jack right here that's supporting the axle. You just want to give a little support of the axle so it doesn't drop down when you release the shock. What you probably want to do is take a couple extensions, that way you can work right outside your tire. And it'll come right apart, as you can see.
This is an 18mm again, and you might need two wrenches. One for here, and one to hold. But little trick... if all you have is wrenches, hook another wrench onto the end of that one, and that gives you some extra leverage. And like I said, on the ground this is going to be somewhat more difficult. Now I'm going to cheat 'cause I've got 18mm deep socket and an impact wrench. Comes right out. Back up top here. So that's how your shock comes out. Again, the shocks on this vehicle are fine. Just showing you how to do it. So to reinstall it, you want to put the top back up in. Put this top bolt in first. Now the bottom. Put that back in. Start that nut on. A good rule of thumb for these is get it about as tight as you can get it with a ratchet like that. And up to the top here. Again, just got my ratchet on here. That's tight as I can get it with the ratchet.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Socket Driver
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle so your wheel's off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna come right here to your center cover, use a nice little pry bar, and go ahead and pop this off. Now that we've done that, we're gonna remove all six of our 19-millimeter lug nuts and take the wheel off.
Now that we have the wheel off of here, we have a nice clear view of our sway bar link. To start removing it, it's important to see the inside center piece right there. That's a little Allen head. I'm gonna show you what tool to use in a second. But, first, what we're gonna do is we're gonna remove or at least loosen this 18-millimeter nut.
A lot of times what happens is as soon as the nut breaks free, the stud in the center starts to spin. That can be a hassle. So we're gonna use a tool that looks like this, this is just a little Allen head key. You're gonna find the size that fits right in there. Okay? Take your wrench, put it right over this. Put the Allen key right in the center, and then we're gonna go ahead and turn the Allen key clockwise, which will in turn, turn the nut counter-clockwise.
You can see that some of the thread locking stuff is coming off. That's pretty common, especially, as the stud heats up. There we are. Now we're gonna do the same to the upper one. There we are friends. Okay, friends, it's time for an install. Just make sure all the angles line up with the original. We're gonna put it through from the outside in, on the top, and then from the inside, out on the bottom. Start on both of your nuts, and then we'll bottom them out and torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Now let's tighten the sway bar link nuts to 74 foot-pounds.
All right let's get the wheel up on here. Start on all your lug nuts, bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 103 foot-pounds. Let's torque these in a criss-cross manner. Now it's gonna be time to put on your center cover. If you were to look at the back side, you're gonna see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line that up with your valve stem, then just give it a nice loving bonk. Make sure it's completely secured. Take it for a road test.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
Wheel Chocks
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so your wheel's off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna come right here to your center cover. Use a nice little pry bar, and go ahead and pop this off. Now that we've done that, we're gonna remove all 6 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts and take the wheel off.
Now that we have the wheel off of here, we have a nice clear view of the rear shock. We're gonna start by removing this 18-millimeter bolt right here, and then we'll just start it back in just a few threads. Okay, so that's pretty good right there. It's pretty much ready to come out. At this point, let's make our way down to the bottom.
So for the next step, if you're working on a lift and you're jacking it up by the frame of the vehicle, what you're also gonna need to do is go ahead and put something underneath the differential so you can bring this up a little bit to take the pressure off the shock bolts. Now I'm gonna use my 18-millimeter wrench to hold this side of the bolt, and I'll remove this 18-millimeter nut. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends, it's time to install our new shock. One of the first things you need to do when it comes time to installing your shock is to make sure you charge it up. Let's get right down on the ground. Okay, we have our shock on the ground here, facing straight up and down. I've got it securely between my feet so it can't slide out on me. I'm gonna carefully press this down until it bottoms out, and then I'll let it completely rise up. After it's done that, I'll repeat the process another three to four times.
Okay, so we've got it all charged up. Let's go ahead and put it up into the vehicle. We're gonna grab onto these bolts. Make sure they're in decent enough condition. If the threads need to be cleaned up, go ahead and clean them up. The shorter bolt is gonna go up at the top, so we'll go ahead and start that one in, just a few threads.
Moving along to the bottom, at this point, you might notice that the holes just don't line up. If for some reason, the hole for the differential is higher than the shock, that's really not too big of a deal because you could just compress the shock slowly and meet up with the holes. If it's in the other direction, what might you have to do? Maybe you have to jack up a little bit more on the frame or maybe a little bit more on the differential to make it so it matches up. Grab your nut. Start it on there. All right, let's bottom everything out and then torque it down. Go ahead and torque those shock nuts to 59 foot-pounds. Let's do the same to the other.
All right, let's get the wheel up on here. Start on all your lug nuts, bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 103 foot-pounds. Let's torque these in a crisis cross manner. Now it's gonna be time to put on your center cover. If you were to look at the backside, you're gonna see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line that up with your valve stem. Then just give it a nice loving bonk, make sure it's completely secured, take it for a road test.
SKA67258
In Stock
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5.00/ 5.02
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Chris
February 24, 2022
Love it!! Thanks
2009 Trailblazer
Eric
March 14, 2022
I'm not a mechanic by trade but after fighting to get the old ones (rusted bolts) off my 2009 Trailblazer these new ones bolted right up and have been working great so far. Easy to install.
Customer Q&A
do you have the front and back struts for the ss model?June 25, 2020
Keui R
10
Currently, we do not carry this part for your vehicle. We're always updating our inventory so please check back soon! If you have any other questions, let us know.
June 25, 2020
Jessica D
Customer service
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