Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Created on:
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we have to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you have your wheels off the ground in the rear, we're going to go ahead and remove all six of these lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel's off, we have a clear view of the brake hose right here. If you're doing just one caliper, we're going to take these hose pinchers right here and pinch this hose. If you're doing both calipers, you can go ahead and pinch that center flex hose. I'll go right here. I'm gonna come up from the top because it's a little easier to get to. Snug that up.
Now we're gonna remove this banjo bolt right here. Before you do that, try to clean off any of this dirt that might be around. I'm gonna use my 12-millimeter to remove that. Just be careful because brake fluid is going to come out. When brake fluid comes out, you need to have a nice collection bucket, and you need to make sure you have hand protection and eye protection. Here we go. Looks like there's minimal brake fluid but there is some. We've got our little banjo bolt on our gasket here. We'll set that aside. We are not going to reuse it. That's not reusable.
Go ahead and get your banjo bolt right out of the line. Take a peek at that banjo bolt. Make sure that it has the other gasket on there. Remove that gasket, recycle that as well. Take a look at your flex hose here. You want to make sure that you have a good connection point on there. Any area that the gasket's gonna ride needs to be free and clear. If it's dirty, clean it up. Look at the other side and do the same. The next thing I like to do is just kind of plug this hole up with something. If you have something plastic, or even if you want to try to put the banjo bolt in there, just to kind of prevent any brake fluid from shooting out at you, especially in your face. Cover that up.
Now we're going to remove these bolts right here. These are the mounting bolts and they're 18-millimeter. They'll hold the bracket to the actual differential itself. There's one. Hold that caliper. Remove your caliper. One of the first things that you need to do is double-check to make sure that your caliper matches up with the original. You want to double-check on the backside that the bleeder screw is on the corresponding side of the caliper. And aside from that, it should pretty much be the same, whether it's from one side to the other. Once you're sure you have the right caliper, we'll continue on by removing these two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket.
Take the caliper off the bracket, set it aside. With the caliper bracket over on the bench, I just want to show you areas that you're going to want to clean up. You want to clean up this area right along here and right there, the same right here. If you were to take your tin and you were to put it over it, any area that touches...If you were to take your tin and put it right over the bracket, you'll be able to see exactly where you need to clean up. Any areas that the bracket is going to touch up against this tin need to be nice and smooth, and they also need to be lubricated.
Just take your little brush, clean up in between there, clean up all this right here. If there's any really tough areas that don't seem like they want to break free but they're raised up, use a nice screwdriver or whatever you might have and just kind of kit up any of that crud or anything like that that might be on there. Now, once you've cleaned all the mounting areas for where your tins are going to go for your brake pads, you're going to come right here to the sliders. Grab that, pull it right out. Take your rag, clean it up. Inspect the slider, make sure it's in good condition.
If it looks like it's pitted or it's going to cause restriction going in and out, you either need to clean it up better with a wire wheel or replace it. If you were to look inside here, you're going to need that to be nice and clean as well. You can do something as simple as maybe using a bore brush, something like that inside there. Of course, you don't want to damage the boot though. So you'd want to be very careful. Get out as much of the crud as you can inside there, make it as clean as possible. Maybe even take a nice rag, twist it, put it right inside there, and get out as much as possible.
I'm going to use some nice silicone here. This is Moly grease. It's great for calipers. You want to make sure you get right up along this area right there. If you can see where that lip is, where my finger is, get some grease all up on there. It's going to be super important because that's going to help keep moisture out right along this seal. Slide that in there. Give it a nice twist. Move along. Those sliders are in there. Let's go ahead and go right along the bracket. Let's go right in this area.
As you can see, I have it along all ridges going along. Now I would put my tin on here. If I can get this lined up, slide it down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's grab the other portion of our caliber. We're also going to grab this tin right here. When you go to install this tin, you want to make sure you have it in this direction. You want to have the smaller end, or the area with the smaller prongs, facing away from the piston, not facing towards the piston. If you put this in backwards, you could damage the boot.
We're going to take it just like this coming down at this angle, slide it all the way back up against there. Make sure it's not hitting anywhere, and then push this down. Should want to lock in. Make sure that it can not pop up and out of there. You can just lift up on it. Take a look from the backside. You can see that I have my ears holding it in and then this one right there is also holding it in. You can give it a nice push and it's definitely not going to fall out. Let's grab our old caliper and we're just gonna get the pads out of there. We'll bring those over to the vehicle.
Let's grab our caliper bracket and our caliper bracket bolts. If you have any leftover thread locker on them, make sure you clean it off. And if you want to put on some new, it's probably a great idea Put this right over. Start in both of your bolts before you tighten either of them down. Now let's bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these to 148 foot-pounds. Now it's time to install our brake pads. When you go to install it, you want to make sure that you have your squealer, or the wear indicator, facing down. That's it. I've got that one right here. Slide that in. And then my outer pad, I'm going to do the same thing. My wear indicator facing down.
Now we're going to take our caliper here. We're going to use some more of that Moly grease going right around the piston here. And we're also going to come right up along these ears. Pretty much anywhere where the pad's going to ride up against or touch up against. You want to make sure you have some form of lubricant and that'll help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Take that caliper, slide it right over those pads. Here we are. Grab your two new bolts. A little bit of thread locker is probably a good idea. Torque these to 31 foot-pounds.
Let's go ahead and grab onto this little rubber plug there. Get that out. We've got our banjo bolt. The caliper came with a brand new one. It also came with two brand new gaskets. Take your banjo bolt, put one of your gaskets on there. Hold on to that other one. Go ahead and grab that flex hose. You're going to take the bolt, banjo bolt with the gasket go through. Take your other gasket and put it on the backside of that banjo bolt between where it's going to connect onto the caliper. And then go ahead and start that in by hand. Go ahead and snug this up. Bottomed out right there. Let's continue on just maybe an eighth of a turn.
There we are. Give your hose a nice wiggle, make sure that it can not pivot around and there's no way that this banjo bolt can loosen up. Let's go ahead and remove those pliers. Make sure that your hose is not twisted in any way. If it's making a little curly-cue or a pigtail or anything like that, you need to remove it or move your caliber and re-spin it so it's straight. Do is get this little off of the bleeder. Save that. We'll use a 10-millimeter. We'll just break this free real quick. There we are.
Now I'm just going to close it up lightly here. We'll get inside the vehicle and I'm going to pump up the brake until it's a semi-firm pedal. It's not going to be super firm because there isn't any fluid inside the caliper yet. Now that we have that pumped up, we're going to start off by opening this bleeder screw. And we're just going to wait a minute until we see some fluid coming out of here. I'd like to see a nice steady stream of fluid rather than a whole bunch of air bubbles. This is great. We've definitely got fluid coming out here at this point.
I can give the hose a little wiggle. See if I can get out any little bit of air that I can at this point. I'd say that that's close enough. Let's just go ahead and close it right down. You don't need to tighten it up very much because at this point we need to continue with the correct bleeding process. Now, the next thing that we're going to want to do is get up and make sure we double-check the brake fluid level. We want to make sure that the fluid's nice and level. Once we've done that, we're going to need a second person or you can continue on by doing the single-person bleed but it's easier with a second person.
So we'll have the second person get inside the vehicle and they're going to pump up the brakes for us. Go ahead and pump. So now they say holding. So I'm going to open this up and we're going to watch for fluid and air coming out. Now I'll close it up. I'll have them pump again. Go ahead and pump. I'm going to open it up. I'm going to watch for air bubbles again. You notice when it's an air bubble because it'll come shooting out kind of sporadically, it'll look like a big old mess just spraying.
So that one started off with a couple of little splats and then it went ahead and turned into a nice solid stream. So I think we're doing all right but let's do it one more time to be sure. Go ahead and pump. Now I got another air bubble there. I'm still going to continue pumping because why not? I like to make sure that there's zero air inside of the hydraulic system. It's very important. Go ahead and pump. So now with that pump, I got nowhere. That was a nice, solid stream of fluid.
At this point, it's probably a great idea to just do it one more time just to make sure that there's no air inside of the hydraulic system. That was a nice solid stream the whole way. At this point, I'm going to grab that bleeder, make sure it's nice and snug. We'll clean it up a little bit. Make sure you put your rubber boot back on there. That's very important. It's going to keep the moisture and debris out of your bleeder screw. And then, of course, I would clean up the rest of my corresponding area.
Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Let's start on those lug nuts and then we'll bottom them out and we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Let's torque them. Double-check them if you want. And if you have a center cover, put that on as well. After we make sure we double-check that brake fluid, give it a wiggle. It looks as though this is low. There's the maximum line. Open this up. We're going to add some DOT 3 brake fluid. Bring it right up to that maximum line. Make sure you close it back up. Down the road you go.
Tools used
Tools used
All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.
Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.
Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.
So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.
You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.
So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.
Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.
The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET
Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Brake Kits