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Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. It's the same procedure for this truck from 2007 to 2013 Chevy Silverado as well as the GMC Sierra. This is the 1500. We're going to show you on the right-hand or passenger side. The left-hand or driver side is the same, and we do always recommend that you service your brakes in pairs. You'll need new brake rotors and pads from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm to 22mm sockets and ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage since a couple of those bolts are pretty tight, and a T30 Torx bit and driver. If you have some rust you may need a couple of M10 bolts to help you get the disc or the rotor off. You'll also need a wire brush, brake or white grease, and a large C-clamp.
Remove the center cap just by prying with a screwdriver. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel and tire. They are 22mm lug nuts.
By hand or using a steering wheel, turn so you can access the back of the caliper. Now check for any abnormal wear. Make sure that the inside and outside pads are warn about the same amount. Also on the rotor, make sure there are no deep grooves or uneven wear. This can indicate other problems with your brake system.
There are two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on: up there and there. We'll fast-forward as we use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove those bolts. Once you have your bolts off, just put the caliper up an out of the way. Use a screwdriver and pry the brake pads out. You can see the outer one comes out pretty easily. We have a little trouble with the inner one. We actually switched to a larger screwdriver, and you can see after a little more force it comes out.
Now this brake pad sticking in there like that indicates there's a problem, and you want to do some cleanup and some lubrication to prevent this. Remove the little stainless steel slides from the caliper bracket. There are two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle: there and there. You can see here, we give it a try with just the socket and ratchet, but then we use a pipe for some extra leverage and loosen up that bottom one. Then we'll loosen up the top one, remove the bolts, and remove that caliper bracket. There's a T30 Torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub, and we're just using a T30 Torx bit with the ratchet to remove that.
Then, on this truck, the rotor actually pulls off quite easily. If your rotor doesn't come off easily, make sure you douse the back side with penetrating oil as well as around the studs. Use two M10 bolts, and you can tighten them up through the threaded holes and press the rotor off. Here you see old brakes on the left and new brakes from 1A Auto on the right. They're exactly the same.
The inner pad does have a straight edge at the bottom. Put the new rotor in place and then we just use a lug nut to put it in place, kind of just holds things together while you assemble it. Use a wire brush and clean out the grooves where the brake pads go in the caliper brackets. The slide bolts should move in and out nice and easy. If they don't, you can pull them out, clean them, and grease them. Here we are reinstalling the stainless steel slides into the caliper bracket. Then we'll use a wire brush to clean those as well.
We'll continue to fast-forward as we put the caliper bracket in place and start the two bolts that hold it in place. Then tighten them up preliminarily. Use the Torx wrench to tighten those up to 100 foot-pounds. Use brake grease or white lithium grease, and then grease the ends of the pads where they'll sit in the caliper brackets. You can use mineral spirits, or brake cleaner, even gasoline, anything that evaporates quickly and clean up your brakes before putting the rest of them back together.
Put the rear pad in first. Put one side in first and then press the other side in. Make sure it's going fairly easily, and the same thing for the front pad. Now you need to reset the caliper piston. We've put the old inner brake pad back in there, and I'm just going to use a large C-clamp, and as we tighten it up you'll see the pistons go back into the caliper. Now put the caliper back in place. Sometimes those slide bolts will get stuck a little bit, so you have to push them in a little bit to get the caliper to slide down in correctly. Put the caliper in place and start the two bolts on that hold it. We're going to Torx these two bolts to 50 foot-pounds.
Fast-forward as we remove that lug nut and then put our wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily, and with the vehicle back down on the ground, secure and tighten those lugs. Torque the lug nuts to about 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. There's a groove on the wheel and there's another tongue in the cap that line it up. Put the cap back on.
Most importantly, pump your brakes up and do test stops from five and ten mph. Make sure everything is working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear drum brakes on this 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's the same process on the Sierra 1500 from the same year. We show you how to do this on the passenger side, but you're going to want to do it on the driver's side as well. It's pretty much the same process.
The tools you'll need for this is a jack and jack stands, 22 millimeter socket and ratchet, flat blade screw driver, two vise grip pliers, wire brush, white grease and a torque wrench.
Start out by carefully removing the center cap with a flat blade screw driver. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts. Then raise, support and secure the vehicle. Then remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
With the wheel off, there's one or two of these locking rings. Use pliers or a flat blade screw driver. Twist them. Usually you can break them off and pull them off. If you want, you can try and get them off all the way and then reuse them. If the drum doesn't come off, you can use a long bolt, M10 in size. You can see that there are two holes. Just put the bolt into the drum and tighten it up. It will help you pull the drum right off.
With the drum off, you can check the condition of the shoes. See our rear one's in pretty good shape. Same with our front ones: in pretty good shape. Also, check the condition of the drum itself. Just run your finger on it. Make sure that there are no deep grooves or anything like that.
There are brake tools specifically for this purpose but we're just using a pair of vise grips. Remove the spring. We're going to remove this spring in here. Also, that bracket's going to come out at the same time. Then there's a spring down below to remove. Basically, you just pull the springs forward or backward and pull them out. Using the vise grip pliers, you want to twist these retaining springs. You want to hold the pin on the back of the brakes. Then you can just pull that pin right out. You can pull that brake shoe back and pull your adjuster out of there. Set that aside. Now you want to do it on this side. Put your finger on the back of that pin, twist the retaining spring out, remove the pin, and remove the brake shoe.
To remove this brake shoe, you need to get the e-brake out of there. Using a large flat blade screw driver, just pry that out of that slot.
To reinstall, you don't need two people here, but it definitely helps to have two people. With one of the vise grip pliers, you want to pull out the center of that spring. With the other set, you want to grip further up so that the spring can't come back down. Then you just want to pry that into the slot on that brake shoe.
Around here, you can see these friction points. You want to take a wire brush and clean each of these up. Just apply a little bit of white grease to each one. Now you want to lift your brake shoe up into place. You want to push that pin through the back. Then twist on that retaining spring. We'll fast forward as he does the same thing on the other side.
Now you want to take that adjuster and put that back into place. Push those two brake shoes together to secure it. Take that little adjuster clip and put that back into place. Now you want to feed the spring down behind that brake shoe. You can see it coming out the other side there. You want to hook it on. Using the vise grip pliers, you want to pull the other end of the spring. Clip it on to the other brake shoe. With this spring, do the same thing but up here on these little brackets on the brake shoes. Your lower spring just clips into these two holes. Now, when you go to put the drum back on, if you realize it doesn't fit, as you can see here, it just doesn't fit. What you want to do is take a flat blade screw driver and hold that adjuster clip back. Use that to turn that adjuster right there. That will bring your brake shoes in. After adjusting it, you want it to still have a little bit of resistance as you push that drum on. As you can see, it fits perfectly.
We'll fast forward as he puts the wheel back on, and puts those lug nuts back in to place. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. You want to torque those lug nuts to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Put the cap back on and repeat for the other side. After you've done the brake work, get in. Test your pedal and make sure it's nice and firm. Do some slow stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour before road testing your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
