Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59425

Take the center cap off, we'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here. Slide it off. The lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off. You need some pliers on the top of the link. Right here. Just watch out for the brake hose. And then underneath, I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket. There we go. Cut the top off. And slide the bolt straight through like that. Can use a large pry bar. Just pry up. Just take this piece out. Just be careful, don't pry on the steering. I was prying through the frame in the back there. All right. The new link, I'm just going to take this top piece off, set it aside, and you're going to need to take these pieces off as well. And slide this lower part through and then put the bushing, the washer in the same...pretty much the same how it came out. Then up top. Put the bushing, and the washer, and the nut.

Use a 14-millimeter wrench on the nut and a 14-millimeter socket on the bottom. Tighten this up. Then we're going to torque this nut to 89-inch-pounds. That's good. Just make sure the top of this bolt is not rubbing on the brake line. And if it is, then you could always trim the top of the bolt or you can always invert it and have the bolt going straight down.

And put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And put the center cap on.

You wanna keep in mind, when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna wanna go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear.

Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative terminal. Use an 8-millimeter wrench. Disconnect that, just slide it out of the way.

You wanna make sure the steering wheel is centered, and you want to lock the steering wheel somehow. What you can do is take the seat belt and just go through the steering wheel and then buckle the seat belt. That way, it'll keep the steering wheel from turning.

All right, take the wheel off. We wanna remove the hubcap. Use a straight-blade screwdriver, slide that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. Remove the wheel.

I'm gonna take this panel off, use a 15-millimeter socket, take these bolts out. There's four bolts. Slide that down.

Take this cotter pin off. Just use some side cutters. Now, remove this nut. Use a 21-millimeter socket. So, now you can try to use different types of tools to separate this. I'm just gonna use a puller. You can try something like this or you can try something like a pickle fork to try to get it in there.

I'm gonna try to use a pickle fork now. Here we go. We're gonna pull this power steering hose off the steering box right here. You may have a clamp that's holding it on, this one happens to have a worm clamp. Use a 7-millimeter socket. If you have the regular style clamp, just use some pliers. You might wanna put a drain bucket underneath because you're gonna lose some fluid. Take that off.

Now I wanna take this steering line off, use an 18-millimeter wrench. It's not easy to get in there with a wrench. If you have a crows foot, that would work a little better. But just do the best you can.

So, our line is rusted at the top of the steering box and it's not breaking free. In our situation, I'm gonna have to take it off the brake booster. I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench and loosen this up. But, ideally, if you can get it off the top of the box, steering box, then that would be ideal. And I can slide this line out from here. Now I'll just take this line out with the steering box. Just like that. And then, on the top of the steering box, we need to take the linkage that connects this to the lower steering column. There's an 11-millimeter bolt, take that out. Pull that bolt out. It's a good idea to replace this bolt whenever you take it out.

Let's just take a pry bar, get in between the lower steering shaft and your steering box and just pry it up to try to separate the two.

So, I'm gonna try to get this off the rest of the way from underneath. Take your pry bar, try to get in between that groove right there. Just try to hammer it up. All right, that's popped off. It's good.

Now we need to take these three bolts out. There's one behind the shields right there. Use a 21-millimeter socket. Take these out. All right, I'm gonna take the last one out. Just loosen those so they're loose like that.

[inaudible 00:04:53] steering box, just lift it up because you gotta pull that pitman arm out. Twist it sideways so we still have that line connected. And here we go.

Now I'm gonna use a 34-millimeter socket to take this nut off. Take that off. Now this is a dust seal right here. Just get a straight-blade screwdriver and just push it up. Just get that out of the way so we can put our tool on and put the pitman-arm remover on. Here we go.

Now there is four key ways for this to line up. So, install this the same way that the old one came off. Put the lock washer on, put the nut on, and tighten this up. And then do the best you can, put this in a vise and then torque this nut to 180 foot-pounds.

And then slide this dust boot back down. Just like that. Looks good.

Now I'm gonna send the hose up first. You know, if you were able to not have to have the hose connected, then you don't have to do this part. And slide the box in position. You wanna get the pitman arm through that steering bar...just like that. Make sure that's lined up first. Move this around a little bit and get one of these bolts started. And you can try to get the other one started as well. I'm gonna have to rotate this a little bit.

Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 110 foot-pounds. Now put this nut on. And we're gonna torque this nut to 46 foot-pounds.

Now if the hole's not lined up for the cotter pin, you can tighten the nut a little bit more. It's better to tighten it than loosen it. And that looks good. A little more. Put the cotter pin in. Take some side cutters and just bend it...just like this. And trim the excess.

So, you just wanna make sure that the steering box, the wheels are straight just like it was when you took this shaft off. And just get this lined up. You can get it started while you're underneath. Or you can try to do it from up top.

All right, let's slide the steering shaft onto the box, or the gear. That's lined up. Now you put that bolt in. And do the best you can with torquing this, it might be a little bit better to torque this from underneath. You could get directly on it. You wanna torque that bolt to 37 foot-pounds. Okay, good.

Now I'm gonna run this hose back the way it came, up to the booster. And if you didn't take it off here, connect that hose down below.

All right, now snug this up. Now, if you have the ability to use a torque wrench, you can torque this nut, or the lower nut, on the steering box, to 20 foot-pounds. That's good.

Now install this hose. It goes to the cooler. And tighten this up, if you have a worm clamp, or use the hose clamp pliers. And just snug it up. And this cover, bolt's in. And tighten thee bolts down.

Now let's reconnect the battery. Give it a wiggle, make sure it's tight, and you're good to go.

Now we're gonna top off the fluid, take the cap off of the power steering pump. And then use a funnel, and check your owners manual, put in the appropriate fluid.

All right, so, I over filled this a little bit, which is okay. Now, with the front wheels off the ground and the cap off, you might still wanna put a bucket underneath. I'm gonna turn the wheel back and forth about 20 times. Slowly.

All right, we're gonna double check our fluid level. I haven't started the vehicle yet. And the fluid level's right there. Before I just suck some of the fluid out of there, I'm actually gonna start the vehicle, turn the wheel back and forth a couple times, and then recheck it and adjust accordingly.

Install the tire. Put the lug nuts on. All right, tighten these lug nuts down. I'm going to tighten them in a star pattern, or a cross pattern, to 140 foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'm just go around again, double-check. Take the center cap.

All right, friends, so one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you want to come right up front to this skid plate right here. Go ahead and remove all 15-millimeter bolts that hold it in. Now that that's out of the way, let's come right over here to where the idler arm comes down through this arm right here. Remove the 21-millimeter nut.

Now, the next thing we would need to do to get this arm out of here is, of course, try to drop this sway bar out of the way. If your bolts look like ours do, and you think that they're going to be an issue, I would just skip right past that, and we'll come right up here, and we'll remove the whole idler unit right here. To get this out of here, we're going to use a 21-millimeter right there, and then we'll use a 21-millimeter wrench on the nut side.

Right there. Let's put a nice piece of wood in between the frame and this bar right here just to make it so this bar can't go up too far while we hammer on this right there. Now that that's out of there, we can grab right onto this, and we'll get it out of the vehicle. Now, when you're replacing the idler arm here, you're going to need to separate it from the idler arm bracket assembly. When you go to do that, you're going to remove this nut right here, and then you're going to have to try to get something in between to try to separate.

You could try to use a puller, and that would probably be helpful if you have that tool. If you don't have the tool, and you try using a pickle fork, you're probably going to damage this right here, in which case, you would replace the pair, which is what we're going to do today. But I'll still show you how to get it apart anyways just in case you're doing only one piece.

Now, to remove this, I like to have it nice and level on the ground, and I'll put my foot on it. I'm going to have it so it's facing down towards the left, so when I remove this and it tries to spin, it can't go anywhere. Now, that we have the nut off of there, we need to separate the idler arm from the bracket assembly itself. We want to do that without damaging the bracket assembly because we're going to be reusing it, right?

So if you were to look right up here, you're going to see that there's a hole right inside the center of this. What I would like to do is take a punch. I'm going to put this on something sturdy. You can use something like a piece of wood like I have now, a desk, a vise, anything you want. Just be super careful. Come right in here with your punch and a hammer. Let's see if we can get this to come out.

Okay. So that came out, and we caused no damage to this. Perfect. The next thing I like to do is put the unit right inside of a vise if you have access to one. You want to grab on to this boot. Take a look underneath there. Make sure there's plenty of grease. Go ahead and push it down. That feels great. Now, we're going to take that idler arm. Set it right down on there. Take our brand-new nut. You always want to use a brand-new nut.

Okay. So now if I use my 24-millimeter wrench, and I try to tighten this, what you're probably going to notice is the stud on the inside is going to start spinning once it gets to a certain point. Okay. So as you can see, it's spinning the stud. Is the nut all the way down? No, it's not. So now we're going to use a hex bit, and you want to use an 8-millimeter. Come right inside there. That's going to hold it, and now we'll continue tightening this.

Make sure it's nice and tight. That feels great. Maybe time to get our unit back up inside the vehicle here. Just bring it right up and in behind those lines hopefully. Okay, get that in the center link. Let's get this into its bracket. Okay, that looks decent. Let's grab our two bolts. Make sure that they have washers. Put that right through. The other one. There we are. Let's grab the washers and the nuts for the other side. Now, let's snug these up. Now, let's go ahead and torque these down to 73 foot-pounds.

Torqued. Let's get this nut on there. Snug it up. Torque this to 46 foot-pounds. Torqued. And use our locking cotter pin. Slide it right on through there, and then make sure you pin it over so there's no way this nut can come loose. This out of here. Awesome. Let's get this shield back up on here. I'm going to line up those holes. Start in all the bolts before I tighten any of them down. Perfect. The next thing that I would want to do is make sure that I get it down to a reputable alignment shop.

I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel, then I remove the wheel. So I'm going to use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there, and then underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and just take the link out. A long bolt goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar, take the link out, all right. So we'll just take the new link apart, and just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first.

And then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer and the bushing. Align this up and slide the bushing and the washer. Pry down on the bar. And then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nuts started. All right, that's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut and a 14-millimeter socket and tighten this down. And then you want to torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Now, put the tire back and lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double Check.

So before you do this job, you wanna keep in mind that after you're done, you're gonna have to go to an alignment shop and have the vehicle aligned so you don't burn out your tires and have premature tire wear. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off.

Now, I wanna get this wheel speed sensor wire out of the way. I'm gonna use a trim tool to remove the hold downs, this one right there and right here. And then disconnect the connector up top. I just wanna move it out of the way. Now, I'm gonna remove this bracket for the brake hose. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to take this bolt out. Oh. And sometimes they'll break. That's okay. Just set it aside.

Now, I'm gonna loosen up this nut. I'm not gonna completely take it off. I just wanna loosen it using an 18-millimeter wrench. All right. So I'll leave a couple of threads on there. That's good. Now, I'm gonna break the ball joint free from the knuckle. I'm gonna use a pickle fork. You could try tapping the knuckle, but you wanna be careful. You don't wanna break it. Just watch out for the brake hose. Make sure you're not hitting the brake hose on the other side. There we go.

Now, I'm gonna support the lower control arm with a jack stand. I wanna take the load off the upper control arm. Just lower it onto that. You could always use a floor jack. All right. Now, I'm gonna take a pry bar and just pry down on the control arm and then I can take the nut off of the ball joint. And if the stud starts spinning, just pry down on the pry bar a little bit more and then take that nut off.

You can slide the knuckle out. I could leave it right there for now. I'm gonna take these bolts out next. So that you don't break the axle, you wanna make sure that you keep the knuckle pulled in towards the vehicle so it doesn't pull out too far. So you can always use a strap like this and just tie this down so it doesn't fall out. Right now, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt here and either a 13/16 or a 20-millimeter wrench on this side. Loosen the nut up. I might need a breaker bar. Yep.

Or you can use a 21-millimeter socket as well. Break it free. Loosen up the nut. And then take that nut off. You can take this cam off. This is like a washer that's adjustable. You can use some type of pry tool. And just slide that out. I'm gonna use an air hammer with a hammerhead and just push this bolt out. To get this bolt out, if this bracket is in your way, you can just tip up the control arm. Use a 13-millimeter socket to take this bolt out. Just slide the bracket out of your way. Just be careful not to bend the brake line. Now, just take a punch and a hammer and just tap it out the rest of the way. And you can do the same on the other side. And when you're taking that other side out, you don't have to take the shock out. You just have to rotate the cam so that it goes behind the shock.

Now, I'll just grab the upper control arm, and work it back and forth, then you can slide it up. And take the new arm. Just slide it in position and then take the bolts with the inside cam. There we go. All right. So on the outside of these cams, these have these little nylon or plastic spacers right here. That's going to make it so the alignment's close to where it should be. It's not gonna be exact. You still need to get an alignment done after you're done. So when you put these on and you put that tab through that hole, if you still have these on the vehicle, then it's gonna be close. That'll get you somewhat close to where it should be. Install the nuts. There we go.

All right. So when I go to torque these 2 bolts down, what I wanna use is my 13-millimeter, 13/16 wrench. And I want this upper control arm to be as close to ride height as possible. Ideally, you put this all back together and put the weight of the vehicle on it, and then retorque that. But that's not that easy to get to. So try to get the upper control arm as close to ride height as possible. Sometimes you take a 12-millimeter socket, just stick it under here, and that's pretty close.

And then you wanna torque this to 140 foot pounds, both this one and the other one. And once those are all torqued, you can take the socket out. Now, I can take this strap out of the way, and take the brake hose, line this back up. Put the bolt in and snug it up. Now, I'll get the ball joint lined up. You might have to use a pry bar. Get the nut started. Now, I'm gonna pry down on the control arm and then tighten that nut. Use a 19-millimeter ratchet wrench. Then if you have the ability to torque this nut, you're gonna wanna torque that to 37 foot pounds or do the best you can.

That's good. Now, I'll take this bracket for the brake hose and take a bolt. Put the bolt back in and snug it up. Take the ABS wire or the wheel speed sensor harness, and reposition this. And plug the connector back in. That's good. All right. Now you can take the grease fitting and put that in the ball joint. Get that started. And use a 7-millimeter wrench and just snug it up and give it a couple pumps. You can watch the boot of the ball joint, and then once you see it move, then it should be good enough. That's good. Now, I'm gonna raise the vehicle and reinstall the wheel. And put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again and double-check.

Normally, there is a shield right here, you wanna take that shield off. There'll be four or five 15-millimeter bolts. Take that off, get it out of your way. Now, we're gonna take this nut off. On this vehicle, there's a cotter pin. So, I'll just use some side cutters, take this cotter pin off. Just bend it back a little bit and just pry it out. And sometimes they break. There we go. Now, I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket, take this nut off. Now, I wanna remove that stud from the steering linkage that goes through the idler arm. I'm gonna use a tool like this, it's gonna press it out. You can use a couple other methods. You could use a pickle fork, try to get it out this way...that way. Just gonna put the nut on to stabilize the tool so it doesn't fall off. All right. While that's on there tight, I'm just gonna give it a tap with the air hammer, see if the vibrations loosen it up. So, that didn't work out. So, I'm gonna try a pickle fork. Sometimes these are tricky to get to separate. There we go.

Now, I'm gonna take these two bolts out. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench. On the backside, there's a nut and then a 21-millimeter socket on the front. Get that nut off. Take the bolt out. And just grab the idler arm and the housing and just slide it up. If you were gonna replace one of these pieces or the other, you can separate that nut. Just gonna put the housing in the vise, make it easier to install. Take the nut off. All right. Take the idler arm, put the nut on, take a 24-millimeter socket and snug it up. Now, I'm gonna take this castle nut off. And get this in position. As you slide the housing in the bracket, you wanna make sure the idler arm goes through the steering linkage. Get the bolts lined up. And put the nuts on the backside. Now, I'll tighten these down. Then torque both of those bolts to 73 foot-pounds. Now, install the castle nut and tighten that up. And then torque this to 46 foot-pounds. And find the hole through the stud and you can use the cotter pin, slide it through. If it doesn't fit or if you can't get it to line up, you can tighten the nut up a little more so it does line up. There we go. And use some side cutters and just bend this like this. And then you can trim the excess. Now, if you have that shield right here, reinstall that shield.

One of the first things you want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar and we're going to take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're going to see a little notch in the cap. Just carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel. Now let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on, just a couple threads. Now we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the knuckle. You want to be very careful for your brake rotor.

Now that the wheel is off, we have a clear view of where we're going to start working. We're going to disconnect the electrical, this is the ABS right here, and it's very delicate. I'm just gonna come right up along here, and you're gonna see where it's supposed to be mounted to the frame. Should be pretty secure. This is missing about half of its clip, so I'll make sure I secure it in afterward. This purple right here is a little lock, it's holding it from coming separated. I like to just come right in between here, pop that up. Now we'll separate this, just take a peek, make sure you don't see any funny colors. If you were to come right down along here, we're gonna get this clip off of here as well. Just give it a little twist, lift it up, grab that ABS wire, carefully set it aside. The next thing we're going to do is remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the knuckle. Okay. That comes right off. I'm just gonna go ahead and put it on there just a couple threads for now. Now let's use a 36-millimeter socket to remove our axle nut. Behind there, there's a washer. Go ahead and remove that as well. Let's go ahead and blast this with some penetrant.

The next thing we need to do is separate the axle from the bearing. I'm going to use this punch right here and go right in the center. You definitely don't wanna use a hammer and potentially damage the threads. The next thing we need to do is remove our mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle, use an 18-millimeter. Carefully hang your caliper, so it's putting no pressure on your flex hoses. So, now let's just double-check to make sure this upper ball joint nut is still on there a few good threads, it hasn't loosened upon us. And then we'll move down here to the lower ball joint nut. Remove that as well. Take that, and just put it on a couple threads.

Okay, so now it's gonna be time to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle right here. Pay special attention to anything that's delicate that you don't want ruined, such as an ABS wire. Make sure that that's secure and safely out of the way. Go ahead and take your nice little hammer. And we're going to bonk right here on the knuckle itself. As you can tell it's separated, we can move along. So, now let's push down on this. Remove that nut. And carefully draw this down. Now if you're worried the knuckle with a rotor is going to be too heavy, you can go ahead and use a Torx bit right here, remove that bolt, and take the rotor right off. The problem with removing it like that is you're gonna have to clean up the mating surface between the wheel bearing and the rotor itself. So, now I'm going to take my hammer again and I'm going to come right down here and we're going to hit right on the knuckle itself until this comes down. There we are. Carefully lift up, remove the ball joint nut. Carefully lower this down, remove your knuckle.

The next thing you're going to want to do is support your lower control arm so that you're not putting maximum pressure on your front shock/strut. If you are, you can potentially damage it, because we're going to be using a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the lower ball joint to break it free.

Now to install the lower ball joint, we're gonna want to take the boot off of it first. So, I'm just going to use a nice small screwdriver, pry bar, weasel it in between. Then just kind of separate the two. Be careful not to damage the boot, of course, because we're going to be using it. The next thing we need is a ball joint kit with a cup that's going to fit right up against this lip. We're going to come right underneath, and then we're going to press this right up and in. Right along the bottom. I'm going to use a cup that looks like this, with a hole in the bottom, that's for the stud to go through. It's going to press right up against this ridge right here. Take this cup, something that's hollow enough to make sure that the top part of the ball joint can fit inside. Put it right over the top. Now we're going to take our ball joint C-clamp, put it right over the top, bottom it out. Just check to make sure that the cup is centered to approximately where the ball joints going to be.

Now we're going to tighten this up. As we do that, we want to check this ridge and make sure it matches up directly along this control arm. As you can tell, the ball joint ridge is directly against the control arm right here. Before I release any pressure, I'm just going to give the control arm a couple light bonks with my hammer, just for a little bit of vibration to help make sure this is seated securely. That should be pretty great. Carefully remove your tool. Make sure you install your clamp. To do that, just use these little pliers right here. They fit inside the holes, and then you can spread it. Slide it right over. Make sure it's sitting inside the roof all the way around. If it isn't, just work at it until it is. Now we're going to install our boot. Just carefully bring it up here. I like to try to start it on one side, so I'll go on the side farthest away from me. Then I'll use some pliers and just kind of roll the lip right on. Obviously, be careful not to poke any holes in the boot. Inspect it for any damage. Make sure that it's completely secured. This looks perfect.
Go ahead and take your knuckle. I'm going to start it on the axle a little bit, then slide it over the lower ball joint stud. Lift it up. Kink it to the side and start on that lower ball joint nut. Wiggle the axle around. Should slide right in. Now we're going to use a bar, we're going to pull this upper ball joint down into here. Get the nut, go ahead and start it on there. Just going to take my bar, and try to hold pressure on the lower ball joint to the knuckle. And then we're going to go ahead and try to tighten it up. So, now you'd want to torque this to 37-foot-pounds. If for some reason you can't get your torque wrench in there, like I can't, I would just continue with my wrench and make sure it's nice and tight. [vocalization]. Perfect.

Now it's time to torque up that lower ball joint nut as well. Torque it to 37-foot-pounds. Now what we want to do is make sure that our slot is lined up with the hole that goes through the ball joint stud, so we can make sure we install our cotter pin. Go ahead and slide that through. If for some reason yours is not lined up when you torqued it, you need to continue tightening, not loosening, until it's lined up with the next available slot. Go ahead and peen that over and lock it in. All right. So, now it's gonna be time to get the caliper on here. Just go ahead and slide it right over the rotor. Now we're gonna line up those bolt holes. I like to use some red threadlocker on these bolts. And start them in there. Okay. Let's bottom them out. Now let's go ahead and torque these 248-foot-pounds. Now we'll just go ahead and take that tie rod end, put right through the knuckle. Take your nut, start it on there. We're gonna bottom it out. Now you're gonna torque this to 44-foot-pounds. That's torqued.

The next thing we're gonna do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm going to grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through and just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's going to be time to get the washer with the axle nut on there. Go ahead and slide the pair on. Go ahead and use your 36-millimeter socket, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it. Just gonna put a little splash of never-seize in here, I've got my mounting bolt. Let's use our 10-millimeter and snug it up. Make sure it's fully secured, make sure there's nothing binding your flex hose for your brakes are not twisted in any way.

Now it's time to get our ABS wire re-secured. Let's go ahead and put it in right here. Make sure it cannot come loose. If this can hang around and move around, it could potentially get damaged. Go ahead and connect this in now. Listen for a click, give it a tug. Go ahead and slide in your lock. Now we're going to take our mounting hardware here and just slide it right down in there. It's just a little push clip. Give it a nice tug, make sure it's definitely secured.

So, of course, next, you'd want to go ahead and torque down this nut right here. And that's going to be torqued to 177-foot-pounds. You can do that several ways. If you were to just do it like this, what you're going to notice is it just keeps spinning. If that was the case, what you would do is you can use a pry bar coming straight through these lug studs like this down to the ground. And so it holds it from spinning on you and then you would torque it. If you didn't want to go through the process doing that you can go ahead and throw the wheel up on there and then go through the center hole, which is the way that I'm going to do it.

We'll grab those lug nuts, start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now we'll bring it down to the ground and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. It's time to torque down this axle nut, 177-foot pounds like I said. Torqued. Now let's do the lug nuts,140-foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued. Now it's gonna be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back, you're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's gonna go pretty much just like this. Light bonk, and then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty and take it for a road test.

One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that the wheel's off of here, we have a clear view of the sway bar link. What you're going to notice is, up along the top, it has a strange-looking nut. It's very thin. It's going to be hard to grab onto. I'm going to use a pair of locking pliers to try to grab onto it. Using my 15-millimeter socket, I'm going to come down from the bottom here. Now I'm going to use my 14-millimeter socket down along the bottom here, see if we can get this to come apart. Looks like it's starting to turn.

Okay. So, for us, the outer sheath on this broke free from the bolt itself that's supposed to be running through the center, so I'm just going to go ahead and spray this down with some penetrant, let that soak down and through there. Sometimes, what happens is, is this outer portion will actually freeze or get stuck onto the bolt. If that's the case, what you would either want to do is grab onto the outer portion with some locking pliers, and then try to spin out that bolt. If that doesn't work, you might have to just cut the bolt itself. There's the bolt. Let's get all this out of here. Awesome.

So, now, assuming you're doing the sway bar links as a pair, now is the best time to go ahead and start doing the other side as well. Okay. Once you have both sides out, you should be able to move the bar around a little bit at this point. We're going to grab our new sway bar links. We take off the nut, take off the washer and the bushing, the washer and the bushing, and then, of course, the sheath, washer and bushing again, and we're going to leave it just like this.

Now, as we come up, okay, coming up from under the control arm, we still have the bolt with the washer and the bushing. Now we're going to take our bushing with our washer, put that facing down and towards the control arm. Grab your spacer, put that on there. We're going to push this up a little bit further. Now you're going to go washer, facing up, bushing. Get it underneath that sway bar. Bring it up. Bushing again.

If you were to look at these bushings, you can tell that they have like a rounded area, and then they have this area right here with a little like a piton. The piton is going to be going either towards the control arm or towards the sway bar. Set that on there, this one right here, and then, of course, our locking nut. I like to use a little thread locker on these.

I'm just going to use my 14-millimeter wrench, and of course, my ratchet underneath, and I'm going to start snugging it up. As I snug it, I want to be watching these bushings. What I want to see is the bushing touching up against the bar, on both sides of course. And, of course, down by the control arm there, we want those bushings to be touching up against it as well. We don't necessarily want to continue tightening, though, until the point where they seem like they're getting squished down and even pancaking out. So, let's just snug them up so they're all touching at least, and then we'll continue on.

Okay. So, this looks great. As you can tell, all of my bushings are touching exactly where they need to be touching. And you're also going to notice that I didn't continue tightening until they flattened out, like I had said before. This looks pretty great, so I'm just going to take a quick measurement of it. It looks like it's approximately the width of my thumb, personally, so I'm going to make sure that I go approximately the same on the other side of the vehicle.

Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Take the center cap off. Use a straight-blade screwdriver. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Pull the wheel off. These bolts are pretty rusty so I'm just going to use some rust penetrant and soak those before I start. Before we take this nut off, we just want to mark this cam right here. This is for the alignment. When you go to put this back together, you want to put this in the same location so at least it's close. You're still going to need to get an alignment done afterwards, but this will get it a little bit closer. I want to get this ABS wire out of the way, our wheel speed sensor wire. Disconnect the connector up here. Just push up on that tab, slide it out and use a trim tool. Just pull up on that retainer. You can do the same over here, and right here. Sometimes these ones break, just be careful. All right. So this piece is going to break so I'm just going to disconnect it right from the arm itself. And disconnect this right here. Sometimes you can use a screwdriver and just pop that out, or a needle-nose pliers also works. You just squeeze those together. I'm just going to put some rust penetrant on this bolt right here. Let that soak a little bit. We want to take that off next. Just remove this bracket. Use a 10-millimeter socket. Remove this bolt. It's probably going to break. Yup, it broke. Well, hopefully yours doesn't break. And slide that off.

All right. Now, we're going to take this nut off using an 18-millimeter wrench. Now I'm going to leave this nut on just a couple of threads, and then we're going to break this upper ball joint free from the knuckle. I'm going to use a pickle fork to break this free. Just slide it in, in between the ball joint and the knuckle and just give it a hit. There we go. Take the pickle fork out and just push down the upper control arm a little bit. You might need a pry bar. And take the nut off and you could slide it out. And just make sure that there's not too much tension on the brake line, brake hose. I'm going to take a 21-millimeter wrench, 21-millimeter socket. Now this is old and rusty so I just had to heat up that nut to break it loose. Normally you wouldn't have to do that. And loosen it up. That nut's pretty hot right now so I'm just going to let that cool down before I take that off. Take that nut off and see if you can pry this cam off. This is just the alignment cam. Just use a pry bar and a hammer. And just pry that off. All right. This cam bolt is stuck in there pretty good so I'm just going to use some more rust penetrant, soak it down for a while.

Here we go. All right. Get that out and do the same for the other side. All right. I'm just going to take this bracket out of the way. Just use a 13-millimeter socket and you can just slide it out of the way. Don't bend it too much. Here we go. And just use a pry bar and you can pry the arm out. And take the new control arm and just line it up. You can take a rubber mallet, or a dead-blow hammer to tap it in if you need to. And get the bolt started. And take this cam and the nut. Get the nut started. Now we tighten this up. Now we want to align that mark up. What you do is take your 21-millimeter wrench and just move the bolt on this side until that lines up. And you can snug that down. And we'll do the same for the other side. All right. Now, we're going to torque this nut to 140-foot-pounds. Do the same on the front one. Take this brake hose bracket and install that. Put the bolt back in and tighten that up. Get the nut off. Put that aside. Get this lined up with the upper knuckle. And I'll use a pry bar, just pry this down. Take the nut and get the nut started.

Now, I'm going to use a 19-millimeter ratchet wrench, while I'm using the pry bar to pry it down on the ball joint. Tighten this up. All right. Now, if you have the ability, just torque this with a torque wrench, you can torque this to 37-foot-pounds. Do the best you can. And if the stud starts spinning, you can use an allen key, that's a six-millimeter hex key. But if you use the pry bar and you just pry it down, you should be able to get that without having the stud spinning. Take this brake hose bracket and line that up. Put the nut on or the bolt in and snug it up. And take the wheel speed sensor wire and reconnect that. And then we have this holder or clip. Install that. Lock that in place. Reinstall this clip and connect the connector. And push the retainer. I'm just going to find the hole where it goes. There it is. And lock that in position. And take this fitting. Install that. Snug it up with a seven-millimeter wrench.

And take a grease gun and give it a couple pumps of grease. What you can do is look at the boot as you're greasing it, once you see the boot start to move, that's good enough. And put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in any star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. Install the center cap.

You want to keep in mind when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna want to go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear.

Just take this cover off. Use a 15-millimeter socket. There's two bolts in the bottom, two on top. Sometimes there'll be a third. Slide it off. Take this cotter pin out. Just use some side cutters and pull that up. Just gonna use a little rust penetrant. It's a little rusty. Take a 21-millimeter socket. Take this nut off.

Now, I want to separate the idler arm from the steering bar. I'm just gonna use a front-end tool. There's many different tools you could use to get this off. Just tighten this up. Put the nut on just so my tool doesn't slip off the stud. It's just gonna use it as a guide.

Another way you can try to do this is use a pickle fork. There we go. Slide that up. I'm going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use a wrench, a 21-millimeter wrench backside to hold the nut. Use a 21-millimeter socket on the bolt. Take both of those out. Pull the bolts out. Let me just grab the whole idler arm assembly and you just slide it off.

If you're gonna replace just the arm or just the assembly, you're gonna have to separate it. So use a 24-millimeter socket. It helps to put it in a vise and then you can use a puller and separate these two just like that. And take the arm, put the new nut on. Just snug that up tight. All right, just line this up.

I'm gonna have to tap this in place. That's good. Before you put the bolts through up top, just make sure it's going through this bar right here. Put the bolts in, take the two nuts. Get them on the back side. Now, snug these up. Torque to 74 foot-pounds. And take the castle nut, install that there, tighten it up and torque this to 46 foot-pounds.

If the hole didn't line up, you can just tighten it up a little bit more so you can put the cotter pin in. Slide the cotter pin in, and just bend one of the tabs over and trim the excess. Take this shield, install it bolts, put the back in, and tighten these up.