Kit Includes: (1) Front CV Axle Assembly (1) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
Specification
Side Location
Passenger Side
Drivetrain
4 Wheel Drive
Location
Front
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Note: This is correct for models with or without ABS brakes. The tone ring can be removed if the original CV axle did not have one and the vehicle did not originally come equipped with ABS brakes.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Differences Between Tapered Bearings and Ball Bearings
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Created on:
Tools used
No Tools Needed
1. Tapered Bearings vs Ball Bearings
Tapered rollers shaped like flat top cones provide more contact area, which increases their capability at receiving forces excreted by trucks and large cars.
Ball bearings are good for small cars as they do not need to sustain as much weight as the tapered roller bearings.
Hi everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto, and today we're gonna talk bearings. The difference between a roller bearing and a ball bearing type.
While both a roller bearing and tapered bearings work in the same manner. Tapered bearings use tapered rollers shaped like flat topped cones and two races angled from the outside to the inside of the bearing. The rollers have a large contact area which is what makes them better than roller bearings at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering in trucks and large cars.
For applications that require it, the TRQ brand offers tapered roller bearing style wheel bearings that match OEM specifications where other brands do not.
Roller ball bearings work well for small cars but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing will result in increasing wear and faster failure.
So now that you know all parts aren't created equal, you can purchase your TRQ bearing at 1aauto.com.
Tools used
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
15mm Wrench
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Caliper Bracket
Remove the T55 Torx bolts from the caliper
Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the caliper to push the caliper piston in
Remove the caliper
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
Use a piece of pipe and ratchet to remove two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Slide the rotor off
3. Removing the Hub
Disconnect the ABS harness from the frame and steering spindle by removing the clips
Pry off the center hub cap using a flat blade screw driver and hammer
Remove the 36mm center hub nut with an impact wrench and air blow gun
Remove the three 15mm hub bolts with two 15mm wrenches
Twist the hub nut a quarter of the way
And hammer from the back of the hub
Remove the hub nut and pull the hub out
4. Installing the New Hub
Place the backing plate onto the hub
Push the hub back into place
Insert and tighten the 15mm hub bolts
Torque the 15mm hub bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Remove the clip and feed the ABS harness back into place
Replace the clips and brackets to the ABS harness
Replace center hub nut and washer
Tighten the center hub nut
5. Replacing the Caliper Bracket
Place the rotor on the hub
Twist a lug nut to hold the rotor in place
Put the caliper on
Replace and tighten the 18mm bolts
Torque the 18mm bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Install the new brake pads into the bracket, tapping lightly with a hammer
Grease the caliper bolts
Place the caliper onto the bracket
Replace and tighten the T55 Torx bolts
Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs
6. Reinstalling the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the 22mm bolts
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Torque the center hub nut to a 125 ft/lbs
Reattach the center cap
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Trim Tool Set
Brake Parts Cleaner
T55 Torx Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Brake Caliper Hanger
Sledge Hammer
Copper Anti-Seize
Air Compressor
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Cloth Rags
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Pliers
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
Hammer
Socket Extensions
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
T55 Torx Socket
Brake Caliper Hanger
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
Needle nose pliers
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Brake Parts Cleaner
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Socket Driver
Paper Towels
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Brake Grease
Wire Brush
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Just take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Get behind here. This is 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.
I'm gonna take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just gonna tap them in because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. Now use the gun. That one came right out. Slide those out. Take a straight blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper a little bit, compress the piston. Slide the caliper off. We need to flip it over. It's a good idea to attach it somehow so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off. Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go. All right, those are broken free. Take those out. Grab the bracket, slide it right off. Grab the rotor, slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Now I'm gonna use a 36-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. Take this washer off as well. This is pretty rusty. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant in there. Let that soak. I'm just gonna use a punch and give it a couple taps, just to make sure this is loose. You don't wanna push it too far, just make sure the axle's separated from the hub a little bit.
Then spray the backside a little bit with some more penetrating oil. Let that soak. Disconnect the connector up top, this little tab. Just slide that. And then the other connector is gonna go down to the hub. Disconnect these. Use a trim tool. Pry up. Pop that out. You need to pop these off, like this. Or if you have trouble with it, you can just pop the retainer open and just slide these out. Sometimes these break right there, and it's just easier to open those up. Slide the wire over here. Use some needle-nose pliers, just squeeze this clip. And slide that out, outta the way.
Now I'm just gonna take these three bolts off on the backside of the knuckle. These go to the hub. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. Take those out. Just be careful near the CV boot, you don't wanna rip it. There we go. Got them all at least loosened. And take this bolt out. And this top one I can't get that out. I'm just gonna leave that in there. When the hub comes forward, then that bolt will be loose.
Now I'm gonna take a hammer and hit the hub from the backside to try to separate it from the knuckle. Sometimes these are frozen on there pretty good. And it's actually starting to move. You can grab the backing shield and just see if you can wiggle it. Spray a little bit more rust penetrant in there. The axle, a little tap. And just slide it out. And that bolt is just loose. I'm just gonna leave that right there for when I go to reinstall it. Just gonna clean up this knuckle. Just use a wire brush. Clean up some of this rust. Take this backing shield off. Gonna reuse this. If this is rusty, you can clean this up with a wire brush a little bit. I'm gonna use some anti-seize on this area so that if I ever have to take this off again, it comes off easy. Just put a little on the splines too. Slide the wire through the backing shield and install the new hub. Get it lined up. That's good. Get the bolt started. Gonna start with that top bolt. It's kinda hard to get to.
All right, with that bolt started, go ahead and take the wire. We can rerun the wire. And I can either pop that one out or just pop the new one off and reuse the old one. Screwdriver, pop that off. Lock it in place. Put that there. And we'll plug this in right there. And then reposition this, and that's good. And you get the other bolts in. And tighten these bolts up. Move this a little more. All right. Now we're gonna go back to all these bolts and torque them to 133 foot-pounds. And do the same on the other two. Put the washer on. Put the nut on. It is a good idea to replace the nut. But you can reuse it if you have to. And tighten this up. I'm just gonna put the pry bar through here, and then the other end is on the ground. That's gonna prevent the hub from spinning. And I'll torque this nut to 177 foot-pounds. That's good. Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight blade pocket screwdriver. Take these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to, you can use a file. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. And then take some brake caliper lubricant and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there. Line it up, find the right one. Put it on there. Put a little more brake caliper grease on here, just a thin coat. Just where the pads are gonna make contact. Take a little bit of anti-seize, just go around the hub. We'll see around the center here and spread it out. Nice thin coat. Just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. And we'll wipe it with a rag with just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over, do the same on this side. And wipe it down.
Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there. And line the caliper bracket up, goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up. And use the torque wrench, and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good. Now install the new brake pads. Now the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom and just one, not one at the top. Just slide that in position. And the outside one will have both. That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use the caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't wanna push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder. All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. Those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads and line it into the bracket. Take the brake caliper pins, just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Take some brake caliper grease. Grease them up. And slide the pins back in position. Get them started. And then tighten them down. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.
And put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. Max line's right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid's right about there.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Pry Bar
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.
What we need to do now... Oops... What we need to do now is remove the bolts that hold the axle, so the axle comes out of the front differential. I like to use a nice long extension and a swivel. We'll remove all those bolts. Now what we need to do is get this cover off of here. You can use something as simple as a pry bar and a hammer. Just give it a couple of loving bonks. Check your cover, make sure that there's no puncture holes. Let's take off this axle nut. Get that washer out of there as well.
Put a little bit of penetrant in here. Then we're going to take our punch and our hammer and we'll give this a couple of bonks to push the axle through. Okay, that broke free. Let's move along. Let's see if we can make the axle come down. It should go below there. Pull the axle out. There it is, friends. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. Now we're just gonna clean and prep our bolts. Once they're clean, just use a little bit of thread locker on them. We're gonna grab the axle and we'll start putting it back in.
I'm just gonna use some copper never-seize, go right inside that bearing hole there. Grab that axle. Squeeze the little one through. Okay. Pull the axle up to where it needs to go, line it up, and start in your bolts. Now that we have all those started, let's go ahead and snug them up. Do it in a crisscross pattern. So now it's gonna be time to go ahead and torque those bolts. To do that, it's probably easiest if you get down close to the ground, put a bar going through your lug studs like this, and then make it so your wheel can't spin. Go ahead and torque these to 58 foot-pounds.
Every time you get the axle nut on there, you're gonna notice that it's a locking nut because it has the two squished areas. If you still wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Now let's torque this to 155 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's clean out this area. Now we're gonna take our cap and a little bit of gasket maker. Just go right along the edge there and just make a nice seal so no moisture can get in. Start it on there.
Clean up your mess. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay, now with the wheel barely on the ground, so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Pliers
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
T55 Torx Socket
Pick
Brake Caliper Hanger
Floor Jack
Swivel
10mm Hex Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
18mm Socket
Brake Parts Cleaner
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Socket Driver
Blowtorch
Paper Towels
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Wire Brush
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
Tools used
Hammer
Socket Extensions
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
T55 Torx Socket
Brake Caliper Hanger
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
Needle nose pliers
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Brake Parts Cleaner
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Socket Driver
Paper Towels
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Brake Grease
Wire Brush
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Just take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Get behind here. This is 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.
I'm gonna take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just gonna tap them in because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. Now use the gun. That one came right out. Slide those out. Take a straight blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper a little bit, compress the piston. Slide the caliper off. We need to flip it over. It's a good idea to attach it somehow so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off. Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go. All right, those are broken free. Take those out. Grab the bracket, slide it right off. Grab the rotor, slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Now I'm gonna use a 36-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. Take this washer off as well. This is pretty rusty. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant in there. Let that soak. I'm just gonna use a punch and give it a couple taps, just to make sure this is loose. You don't wanna push it too far, just make sure the axle's separated from the hub a little bit.
Then spray the backside a little bit with some more penetrating oil. Let that soak. Disconnect the connector up top, this little tab. Just slide that. And then the other connector is gonna go down to the hub. Disconnect these. Use a trim tool. Pry up. Pop that out. You need to pop these off, like this. Or if you have trouble with it, you can just pop the retainer open and just slide these out. Sometimes these break right there, and it's just easier to open those up. Slide the wire over here. Use some needle-nose pliers, just squeeze this clip. And slide that out, outta the way.
Now I'm just gonna take these three bolts off on the backside of the knuckle. These go to the hub. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. Take those out. Just be careful near the CV boot, you don't wanna rip it. There we go. Got them all at least loosened. And take this bolt out. And this top one I can't get that out. I'm just gonna leave that in there. When the hub comes forward, then that bolt will be loose.
Now I'm gonna take a hammer and hit the hub from the backside to try to separate it from the knuckle. Sometimes these are frozen on there pretty good. And it's actually starting to move. You can grab the backing shield and just see if you can wiggle it. Spray a little bit more rust penetrant in there. The axle, a little tap. And just slide it out. And that bolt is just loose. I'm just gonna leave that right there for when I go to reinstall it. Just gonna clean up this knuckle. Just use a wire brush. Clean up some of this rust. Take this backing shield off. Gonna reuse this. If this is rusty, you can clean this up with a wire brush a little bit. I'm gonna use some anti-seize on this area so that if I ever have to take this off again, it comes off easy. Just put a little on the splines too. Slide the wire through the backing shield and install the new hub. Get it lined up. That's good. Get the bolt started. Gonna start with that top bolt. It's kinda hard to get to.
All right, with that bolt started, go ahead and take the wire. We can rerun the wire. And I can either pop that one out or just pop the new one off and reuse the old one. Screwdriver, pop that off. Lock it in place. Put that there. And we'll plug this in right there. And then reposition this, and that's good. And you get the other bolts in. And tighten these bolts up. Move this a little more. All right. Now we're gonna go back to all these bolts and torque them to 133 foot-pounds. And do the same on the other two. Put the washer on. Put the nut on. It is a good idea to replace the nut. But you can reuse it if you have to. And tighten this up. I'm just gonna put the pry bar through here, and then the other end is on the ground. That's gonna prevent the hub from spinning. And I'll torque this nut to 177 foot-pounds. That's good. Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight blade pocket screwdriver. Take these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to, you can use a file. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. And then take some brake caliper lubricant and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there. Line it up, find the right one. Put it on there. Put a little more brake caliper grease on here, just a thin coat. Just where the pads are gonna make contact. Take a little bit of anti-seize, just go around the hub. We'll see around the center here and spread it out. Nice thin coat. Just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. And we'll wipe it with a rag with just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over, do the same on this side. And wipe it down.
Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there. And line the caliper bracket up, goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up. And use the torque wrench, and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good. Now install the new brake pads. Now the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom and just one, not one at the top. Just slide that in position. And the outside one will have both. That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use the caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't wanna push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder. All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. Those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads and line it into the bracket. Take the brake caliper pins, just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Take some brake caliper grease. Grease them up. And slide the pins back in position. Get them started. And then tighten them down. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.
And put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. Max line's right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid's right about there.
I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first. And slide those out. Now I'll take a screwdriver. I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit. Just go in between the caliper and the rotor. Make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself. Just hook it on the upper control arm or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose. Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just pry them off. Now we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off.
Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Now I'm going to take the ABS sensor off or the wheel speed sensor off. Disconnect the wire. This one has wire ties on it holding it on, but normally you just pop it out of the bracket right here. Right there. You can just slide under this retainer and slide it out. And then same with this. Where the connector is disconnect the connector, and just slide it out of the way.
Now we'll take the axle nut off, use a 36-millimeter socket. And take this washer off. You can use a magnet. And can just take a hammer, just give the axle a tap. Just make sure it's loose. You don't want to hit it too hard. You don't want to mushroom the end over because then you won't be able to get the nut on after, or you could always use a punch and tap it with a punch. Now there's three bolts on the backside of the knuckle. Take those three bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Just be careful of the CV boot. You don't want to rip the CV boot. At least get those loose. They may not come out because of the CV boot, but you could push the axle back and get them out. Now you can slide those bolts out or just leave them in there, either way.
Normally, you'll have a dust shield here. So keep that in mind. This vehicle doesn't have one but I'm going to take the hub off. Just use a hammer and just give it a tap on the backside. Try to get it separate from the knuckle. You just go back and forth. And slide it off. And if you had that shield, you'd have to slide the ABS sensor off the shield and reuse the shield when you put it back together. You can use a wire brush to clean this up a little bit and then just use a little bit of copper anti-seize just around here and just so it doesn't seize up. So if in the future you ever have to take off the hub again. All right. At this point, you would take that shield and run the ABS wire through the shield or wheel speed sensor wire, and then slide this in position. And put these bolts back in.
And now I'm going to torque all 3 of these bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Now take the wheel speed sensor wire and put it through that bracket. Slide under the brake hose and attach this to the upper control arm right there. And then this one is going to go right here. Push that through and connect the connector and then push the connector in on top. And take the washer, put the washer back on, put the nut on. Now I'm going to lower the vehicle down to the ground a little bit and use a pry bar to keep the hub from spinning. And I'm going to torque the nut to 177 foot-pounds. Just take a little anti-seize and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice thin coat.
Now install the rotor. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. And just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor. Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes in the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those in position.
Now I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower, the better. Those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts. Clean them off with some brake parts cleaner. Wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, put it on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts or guide pins. And torque those to 80 foot-pounds.
Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. Now I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.
And just go around again. Double-check. Now, after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Safety Glasses
Pliers
Gloves
Air Compressor
Assistant
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. Now, take the axle nut off. Use a 36-millimeter socket. You can take the washer off as well. Use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there. And underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket, and just take the link out. It's a long bolt, goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar. Take the link out.
Now, we can take these bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. All right. Now, you can take the axle and just pry it out a little bit. If you need to, you can use a pry bar or a screwdriver in between there. And just slide it down just like that. Now, I'm gonna push the axle out here. If you have to, you can use a hammer on that, and just slide it out. Slide the axle back in same way it came out. And slide this in position over here. I'll get all the bolts started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 58-foot-pounds. I'm gonna start on this one. And then, I'm gonna switch to the complete opposite side just to torque them down evenly. And you can use a pry bar to hold the studs from spinning. And torque the complete opposite one. And then, once you torque those, then just go around and torque the rest of them. So just take the new link apart. And just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first, and then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer, and the bushing. Line this up, and slide the bushing and the washer.
Pry down on the bar, and then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nut started. All right. That's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut, and a 14-millimeter socket, and tighten this down. And then, you want to torque this to 89-inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And put the washer back on. Put the nut back on. Now, I'm gonna torque the nut to 177-foot-pounds. I'm gonna use a prey bar to prevent the hub from spinning. There you go. Now put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. Now, I'm gonna torque the lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.
And just go around again. Double-check.
BHA52921
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.96/ 5.023
23 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
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1 Star
22
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Fantastic
JAMI
August 24, 2017
Great prices, on time arrival, items exactly as described.
First Time Order
DuWayne
June 25, 2018
Ordered front axel, rotors, brake pads and wheel bearings for my 2004 GMC Sierra. The parts arrived quickly, well packaged and in excellent condition. Included were torq specification sheets which were helpful. The parts fit perfectly and the on-line videos answered a couple questions I had. A good experience.....I will be back. Thanks to the 1AAuto Team. I'm back on the road again. :-)
Great price fast delivery! !
Larry
July 5, 2018
THe parts I ordered was a great deal ! And delivery was fasts . All parts fit so I didn't have to send them back !!! So no down time !!! Thanks 1A auto
Pinnacle
December 16, 2018
I would recommend 1A auto to anyone wich I do. The parts I have ordered were just right fast shipping and my truck is back up and going even improved gas mileage. Web site is easy to find parts. Thank you for your business.
Good quality
Chris
December 21, 2018
Have always watched there how to videos on YouTube. Decided to give there products a try. Worked great! No issues! And a great price at that!
Highly recommended
Juan
April 13, 2019
The part arrived on time very good service I will keep on buying front 1a auto good quality
Oem fit
Christopher
April 21, 2019
Clunk fixed, direct replacement
Ron
July 1, 2019
Axle and hub were correct parts, were easy to assemble and are running fine so far. The axle box had some damage but the part was fine.
2003 Chevy Tahoe
Melvin
November 21, 2019
The parts arrived on time exceptional quality
1Aauto review
Buck
November 11, 2020
1aauto should be called A1auto because their Awesome and number 1 when it comes to quality ,service and price. Here in hawaii prices are really jacked up even with the shipping charges parts from 1aauto still come out way cheaper than here. Mahalo 1aauto for your service.
Love 1A Auto
Willie
December 2, 2020
Parts fit right and they work every time I would recommend this door to anyone for this is a great place to buy
Outstanding
Greg
December 7, 2020
The parts arrived sooner than expected and were a perfect fit. You've got a customer for life.
Quality parts for a great price
D
December 24, 2020
My parts fit perfectly and my truck runs awesome now. They only took a few days by standard shipping to get here. If you're going thru the trouble of changing the wheel hubs, change the axles too if they have a lot miles on them or just looking old. You can't buy the wheel hub at the local parts at this price and A1 Auto basically is including the axle for free. I definitely recommend buying any future parts from A1 Auto.
Easy to Assemble
N
January 4, 2021
Part were an exact fit and seem to be great quality. Hopefully I will be able to get another 270k miles out of them.
2002 chevy Silverado 1500 cv axle and wheel hub
Brandon
January 9, 2021
I bought and replaced these on my chevy Silverado they fit perfectly and they ride great. Super smooth ride too. Especially when you run 33s with a 2.5in lift kit with 2in spacers. The durability and material is great. I have had mine on now for 2 months and no problems. Also only took 2hrs with a car lift.
Security and a piece of mine at a low price
D
January 27, 2021
I learned of this site from my dad and since then I have been a customer it will continue to be a customer the CV axles I purchased are very well-built and the front hubs I purchased also were great quality I would recommend one AAA auto to anyone Definitely gives you a good piece of mind Knowing that you just purchased a high-quality part for a very low price
Ordered CV axle and bearing
Sparrell
May 9, 2021
This product fit perfectly seems to be a quality piece, very satisfied with the brand and would recommend ordering from this site and will order again in the future ??
Good
Patrick
August 13, 2021
Arrived on time
Leon
August 18, 2021
Quality parts in a timely manner
Customer service
Justin
September 19, 2021
Customer service is excellent! Gotten delivered a faulty product and was sent another one free of charge. When the new cv axle arrived everything bolted up correctly and drives great. (Im pretty sure the axle was damaged in shipping but Im not sure)
Perfect replacement...
Brian
December 12, 2021
Fits like a glove... and now to put that glove in the ring and test its durability.
HAYDEN
April 25, 2023
Still working, after 10k, will update if any issues arise.
Good, inexpensive product
Anthony
June 4, 2024
It arrived promptly and the install was smooth. The product seemed to be of good quality. Time will tell but no complaints thus far. I had a slight shake from a bad cv axle on my 2001 yukon and this fixed that issue. I would recommend.
Customer Q&A
Is this part a Moog hub bearing?December 17, 2015
Robert S
10
I don't think so, after market! Quality matches price!!!
December 17, 2015
David H
10
Sorry I do not know what "Moog" means?
December 17, 2015
Charles S
10
no but good quality been running them for over a year
December 19, 2015
Mikeal P
10
No. I didn't find anywhere on mine where there was any stamping indicating the brand. Still appeared to be a good quality replacement part.
December 19, 2015
Andrew R
10
No, these will be our 1A Auto house brand parts. The axle will have a lifetime warranty, and the bearing will have a 2 year warranty. Thank you and have a great day!
December 22, 2015
Derek C
My 2002 GMC Sierra Denali has a 6 bolt flange this unit specifys a 3 bolt flange ?January 30, 2016
Melissa R
10
The wheel hub and bearing have a 3 bolt flange, that is how the whole assembly is connected to the truck.
January 31, 2016
Juan R
10
The only 3 bolt flange i had to deal with is where the hub mated up to the flat part of where the bearing slid through. There were 3 18mm bolts that held these together. I had a 6 bolt pattern where the axle actually bolted into the side of my 4 wheel drivetrain box. Good luck getting the 2 mated surfaces of the hub and the frame apart. Spent a long time there. Didnt have a slide hammer, but a good one may have shortened the job.
January 31, 2016
Daniel E
10
This little different nothing to worry about it match up great
January 31, 2016
Jeronimo G
10
Hello, The hub has a 3 bolt flange and the axle is a 6 bolt flange.
February 1, 2016
Brian F
My 03 gmc has 85000 miles driver's side bearing went should I do both sides?August 29, 2017
Russ K
10
In my experience. Yes saves time replacing. The other side down the road if you're spending time doing one the second is less time because you have done it already so it goes faster... In the end you won't have keep an eye on the other side knowing you just replace both side done . next exhaust...lol it is always something. Good luck.
August 29, 2017
Rhonda H
10
Hey Russel, typically you should change both sides but it's not absolutely necessary. If your budget permits, go ahead and change both sides. However, it doesn't really matter. I only changed one side and I haven't had any issues. I hope this info helps.
August 29, 2017
Luis J
10
Yes u should do both sides I had this happen an I only did one side within a week of doing the driver side I was doing the passenger side
August 29, 2017
Lewis K
10
Yes I would
August 29, 2017
Theresa L
10
Changer both !
July 5, 2018
Larry S
Is this the same as one for a 3500?November 3, 2017
David B
10
The 3500 would use separate components. Please view our other listings for the appropriate replacements.
November 3, 2017
Alex P
Will this part fit the driver side and the passenger? I need both, should I order two if this same thing?September 27, 2021
Nathaniel G
10
Yes you will want to order two of these sets if you are trying to replace both sides.
September 27, 2021
T I
will they work on lifted suspensions?September 18, 2023
Mlke W
10
Our parts are exact replacements for your vehicle's OEM parts. As long as your vehicle specifications match up with our listing, these parts will directly fit and function like the originals.
Currently, we do not carry this part for modified vehicles. We're always updating our inventory so please check back soon!
September 20, 2023
Jean O
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
GMC is a registered trademark of General Motors Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by GMC or General Motors Company.See all trademarks.
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