Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace the front hub on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. It's a 1500, four-wheel drive. We're going to replace the right-hand or passenger side, the same procedure of the left-hand driver's side. This is the same for a 2007 through 2013 Silverado 1500 as well as GMC Sierra 1500 with four-wheel drive.
Items you'll need are a new hub or hubs from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 15 to 22mm sockets with ratchet. You'll need a breaker bar, and/or a pipe for some extra leverage, T-30 torx bit with driver, 36mm socket for the center hub nuts, some penetrating oil, wire brush, small pry bar, hammer, grease and a torque wrench.
Take your flat-blade screw driver and pry off the center cap. I apologize. I'm going a little bit out of order here. You can see we already have the wheel off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to remove this cap by using a screw driver or a coal chisel and hammer or a large set of pliers, and remove that cap to expose that center nut. The center hub nut is 36mm. If you have an impact wrench do it that way. If not, you'll need a large breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, 36mm socket, hold the brakes and remove the center hub nut. Once the nut is off, just make sure that your axle is free. After you get that nut off, then you can loosen your lug nuts and raise and secure the vehicle and remove your wheel and tire.
By hand, or using the steering wheel, turn so you can access the back of the caliper. Check for any abnormal wear. Make sure that the inside and outside pads are worn about the same amount. Also, on the rotor, make sure there's no deep grooves or uneven wear. This can indicate other problems with your brake system. There are two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on up there and there. We'll fast-forward as we use a 19mm socket and a ratchet to remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts off, just put the caliper up and out of the way. Use a screwdriver and pry the brake pads out. You can see the outer one comes out pretty easily. We had a little trouble with the inner one. We actually switched to a larger screwdriver. You can see, after a little more force it comes out. This brake pad sticking in there like that indicates there's a problem, and you want to do some clean-up and some lubrication to prevent this. There are two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle there and there. You can see here, we give it a try with just the socket and ratchet, but then we use a pipe for some extra leverage and loosen up that bottom one. Then, we'll loosen up the top one, and remove the bolts and remove that caliper bracket.
There's a T-30 Torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub. We're just using a T-30 torx bit with a ratchet to remove that. Then, on this truck, the rotor actually pulls off quite easily. If your rotors don't come off easy, douse the back side and around the studs with penetrating oil. Then, use two M-10 bolts. There's two threaded holes in the rotor. You put the bolts in, and tighten them up, and they press the rotor off.
Three 15mm bolts hold the hub in. You see them there and there Another one on here. You want to spray down the back side with penetrating oil. When I say the back side, I mean here where you can see the arrows are pointing. You want to douse the back side of the bolts where they come through the hub flange. The arrows are pointing at two of them. There's obviously one more for the third bolt that's morphed with the front. Here, we're using a 15mm socket with a ratchet and a small extension. You can see, you need a little bit of extra leverage with the pipe and the bolts come off. With some extra leverage they come out fairly easily. We'll fast-forward as he does the other two. Note here, as we work on the last one, don't take this bolt all the way out yet. You'll want to use a hammer. You might have to use a lot of force to get the hub to break free. Do that before you take that last bolt all the way out. That way the hub doesn't go flying.
Secure your brake caliper. Now, you can disconnect your ABS harness. Pull the connection out of the clip to the frame. There's a little button that you press to disconnect. Then, pull the rest of the clips from the control arm and steering knuckle. Now that we've got the thing free and disconnected, we're just taking that last bolt out the rest of the way. Then pull the hub off. Then, that last clip is easier to get to what the hub and backing plate out of the way. Just use a pair of pliers, squeeze the pins on the back and release the clip.
Here, you can see the worn-out part on the left, the new part from 1A Auto. Same connector, everything is going to bolt in exactly the same. Wire brush the steering knuckle to clean it up some, and grease the hub flange. Make sure you put the hub through the backing plate, then onto the axle and steering knuckle. Press it on there as you start the bolts in from the back side. Just a few notes as we speed up: Make sure you start all three bolts in first. You don't want to tighten any one of them up until you get them all started. Then, tighten them up evenly and you will want to torque them. Torque the three bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Now, route the ABS harness back in place and reconnect it.
Free your caliper. Then, reinstall your rotor. We're just going to put a lug nut on there to hold it in place, and start putting our brakes back together. We'll continue to fast-forward as we put the caliper bracket in place, and start the two bolts that hold it in place, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Use a torque wrench to tighten those up to 100 foot pounds.
Use brake grease or white lithium grease, and grease the ends of the pads where they'll sit in the caliper brackets. You can use mineral spirits or brake cleaner, even gasoline, anything that evaporates quickly, and clean off your brakes before putting the rest of it back together.
Put the rear pad in first. Put one side in first, and then press the other side in. It should go in fairly easily The same thing for the front pad.Now, you need to reset the caliper piston. We've put the old inner brake pad back in there. Then, just use a large sea clamp. As we tighten it up, you'll see the pistons go back into the caliper. Now, put the caliper back in place. Sometimes, those slide bolts will get stuck a little bit, so you have to push them in a little bit to get the caliper to slide down in correctly. Put the caliper in place and start the two bolts on that hold it. We're going to torque these two bolts to 50 foot pounds.
Fast-forward as we remove that lug nut, and then put our wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily. Put that center bolt back on and tighten it to 156 foot pounds. Torque the lug nuts to 100 to 110 foot pounds each using a crossing pattern. Then, that center cap does have a little tongue that goes into a groove on the wheel. Put that in place. Them, most important pump your brakes a few times. Make sure that the brakes are working good before road-testing your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's the same part and process on most of the trucks and SUVs from GM, from 2007 to 2012. We show you this repair on the passenger's side but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; jack and jack stands; flat blade screw driver; 7mm, 21mm, and 22mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for leverage; a 15/16 inch wrench; a 16mm wrench; pliers; a hammer; tape measure; a grease gun; and a torque wrench.
The first thing that we need to do is remove the wheel. If you don't have an air wrench, you want to loosen up those lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground. Then, using your jack and jack stands, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.
For a preliminary alignment, measure from a fixed point, which is usually the end of the boot, to the middle of your tie rod and record that measurement. Using a 15/16 wrench loosen up the lock nut for the tie rod. Now using a 21mm socket and ratchet, and piece of pipe for extra leverage if you need it, you want to loosen up the nut on the bottom of the outer tie rod. Then, using a hammer, just hit the knuckle there to loosen the outer tie rod. Then you can pull it up and out. Twist off the outer tie rod.
One the left, is the old outer tie rod; on the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You'll see that they are identical and that they'll install exactly the same. The new tie rod installs the same way. Just put it on to the inner tie rod and twist it on. Twist it right up until you get to that locking nut and then back it off maybe a quarter of a turn. Then take the outer tie rod and push it back down into the knuckle there.
Now put your castle nut back on. Tighten it up until it's snug so that you can measure the tie rod again and make sure you got a good preliminary alignment. Now, just measure again from the same point and make sure that you get the center of the tie rod lined up in the same spot. If you need to adjust at all, just take the castle nut off, pull the tie rod up and out, and twist the tie rod either way to line it up correctly. This is a way to get a good preliminary alignment. We do recommend that you have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Now put that grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and tighten it with a 7mm socket. Once you got it all set, torque the castle nut on, to 50-55 foot-pounds. Once that castle nut is tightened up into place, you want to slide the cotter pin in. Using a pair of pliers, bend the two ends outward to lock it. Hold the inner tie rod, with a 16mm, and then use your 15/16"� to tighten up the locking nut against the outer tie rod. Use a grease gun and put some grease into the tie rod. You will see the boot start expanding.
Fast forward here as we reinstall the wheel and tire. Put the lug nuts on by hand first and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle onto the ground. You want to tighten the lug nuts to 100-110 foot-pounds, using a crossing pattern.Then put your cover back on.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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One of the first things you want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame, so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar, and we're going to take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're going to see a little notch in the cap. Just carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel.
Now, that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. One of the first things we're going to do is break free this jam nut right here. I like to use a nice long pair of pliers like this. You could also use a wrench right on here like that. Once it turns like this, that means it broke free from the outer tie rod end, and now you'll be able to continue. Now, let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on just a couple threads. Now, we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the knuckle. You want to be very careful for your brake rotor. The next thing we're going to do is remove our outer tie rod end, and as you screw it off, just count those threads, one, two, and so on. All right, go ahead and write that number down. The next thing I would do is go ahead and blast this area with some penetrant again. Just for good measure, use some locking pliers. Hold on to the inner tie rod end, and then we're going to use a 24-millimeter socket and remove this. Now, if you were to look at this rubber boot right here, which is called your bellows boot, at this end, closest to the inner tie rod end shaft, you're going to have a little clip. Go ahead and grab that with some long-nose pliers.
Go right along the inner tie rod end. Grab. Squeeze. Draw it away. Remove it. Now, if you were to follow those bellows boot in, you're going to look to find a clamp that's holding the bellows boot to the power steering rack. Right along the frame and the boot, you're going to see a little nub right there. That's the area that the clamp is holding on by. What I like to do is I like to take a nice long pry bar, and I'll put the tip up against it, and come out just like this. And then I'm going to give it a couple loving blocks with a hammer and try to break it free.
Take my pry bar. Put it right up against that clip. Be careful not to damage your boot. One bonk. Set you free. That's what it looks like, friends. Now, we're just going to grab that inner tie rod boot. Go ahead and try to give it a twist to break it free, and then just give it a couple yanks. Go ahead and draw it right off of here. Now, is a great time to inspect the boot. Make sure it's not damaged in any way. This looks great.
The next thing we need to do is grab onto this portion of the inner tie rod end. You can either do that with a inner tie rod end tool, which overall will probably have a little clamp that goes over it. A little piece. You can put an extension with a 3/8 ratchet. You also have a different inner tie rod end tool that will have a nice long tube that will slide over with an adapter. Me personally, I love my nice long pliers. They're easy. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, so you can get to this. If you don't, you'll be inside here. Once you have it turned, go ahead and grab onto it. Turn it counterclockwise and break it free. Let's go ahead and remove that. There it is, friends.
The next thing I always like to do is just clean up the area. That looks pretty decent just like that. Make sure that there's nothing in the threads that's going to cause an issue. Now, it's going to be time to install our inner tie rod end. If you want to use a little bit of threadlocker, we'll call it your prerogative. I like to thread it in by hand. Okay. That's as tight as it's going to go. Now, I'm just going to go ahead and continue on by tightening it up. At this point with it being bottomed out, you really don't want to go too much further because if you apply too much pressure, you'll twist the inner portion of the rack, which will cause an issue. Okay. Just give it a little bit. That's it right there. Now, what you're going to notice is your inner tie rod end is going to come with this nice little package of grease. Go ahead and tear open a little corner of it, and then we're going to take the grease and go right along the ball and socket area, which is this area right here. Just put it in. Wiggle it around. This is going to help keep moisture out of there, and it's going to help keep it well lubricated for a long period of time. I like to put a little bit of grease right along her, right where this line is, that's where the bellows boot clamp is going to be. So, let's get this jam nut off of here.
The next thing we're going to do is go ahead and straighten out the wheel, so it's back to its original area. We're going to take our bellows boot, just like this, and I like to use a nice wire tie, and I'm just going to go right along it. Get it started on there. I'll leave it pretty loose at this point, but I'm going to trim off some of the slack just so I can get inside this area. Now, we're just going to take that inner tie rod end boot. Slide it right on over. Okay. It got to the grease. I'm just going to work it around a little bit. By having grease right here, that's going to make it so when it comes time for the alignment and they're turning this, it's going to turn easy-peasy, and your alignment professional is going to be very happy. Go ahead and slide it over the power steering rack down here. Once you're sure it's completely seated all the way around, go ahead and snug up that wire tie with some pliers, and then trim off the excess.
Now, it's going to be time to get this clamp back on there. Go ahead and carefully squeeze on it. Just watch your fingers. It is spring metal or spring steel. Slide it right on over. Make sure it's sitting flush all the way around, not hanging off anywhere, and the boot is definitely secured to the inner tie rod end. This is going to prevent moisture from getting in. Next, we'll take some copper Never-Seez and go right along the threaded area here. Go ahead and grab that jam nut. Get a nice new one.
Now, it's time to install the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put it in the same amount of threads that you did to take it off, one, two, three, and so on. Take that nut off of there. Okay. So, now with it sitting as it is, you just want to kind of go to the front of the vehicle, and make sure that both wheels are aiming straight ahead at this point.
Now, that everything looks like it's going in a nice and straight line, go ahead and bring that jam nut, so it's hitting up against the outer tie rod end. That's good right there. Let's go ahead and grab some pliers. The next thing we're going to do is take a nice wrench, 1-inch will work perfectly, and we're going to grab right onto this area on the outer tie rod end. And then we'll take our nice long pliers and go ahead and snug up this jam nut. Okay. That feels good. Go ahead and wiggle that tie rod around a little bit. Make sure it's facing straight up and down. This looks good. Now, let's go ahead and snug this up.
We're going to bottom it out. Now, you're going to torque this to 44 foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we're going to do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod, and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm going to grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through. And just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose.
We'll grab those lug nuts. Start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now, we'll bring it down to the ground, and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. Now, let's do the lug nuts, 140 foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued. Now, it's going to be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back. You're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's going to go pretty much just like this. Light bonk and then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty, and take it for a road test.
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One of the first things you wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar, and we're gonna take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're gonna see a little notch in the cap. Carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. One of the first things we're gonna do is break free this jam nut right here. I like to use a nice, long pair of pliers like this. You could also use a wrench. Right on here like that. Once it turns like this, that means it broke free from the outer tie rod end, and now you'll be able to continue. Now let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on, just a couple threads. Now we're gonna take a hammer, and we're gonna hit right here on the knuckle. You wanna be very careful for your brake rotor.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove our outer tie rod end, and as you screw if off, just count those threads. One, two, and so on. All right. Go ahead and write that number down. Now it's time to install the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put it in the same amount of threads that you did to take it off. One, two, three, and so on. Get that nut off of there. Okay. So now with it sitting as it is, you just wanna kind of go to the front of the vehicle and make sure that both wheels are aiming straight ahead at this point. Now that everything looks like it's going in a nice and straight line, go ahead and bring that jam nut so it's hitting up against the outer tie rod end. It's good right there. Let's go ahead and grab some pliers.
The next thing we're gonna do is take a nice wrench, 1-inch will work perfectly, and we're gonna grab right onto this area on the outer tie rod end, and then we'll take our nice, long pliers and go ahead and snug up this jam nut. Okay. That feels good. Go ahead and wiggle that tie rod around a little bit. Make sure it's facing straight up and down. This looks good. Now let's go ahead and snug this up. We're gonna bottom it out. Now you're gonna torque this to 44-foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we're gonna do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod, and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm gonna grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through. Then just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose.
We'll grab those lug nuts, start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now we'll bring it down to the ground, and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. Now let's do the lug nuts, 140-foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued.
Now it's gonna be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back. You're gonna see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's gonna go pretty much just like this. Light bonk. And then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty, and take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
One of the first things you want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar and we're going to take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're going to see a little notch in the cap. Just carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel. Now let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on, just a couple threads. Now we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the knuckle. You want to be very careful for your brake rotor.
Now that the wheel is off, we have a clear view of where we're going to start working. We're going to disconnect the electrical, this is the ABS right here, and it's very delicate. I'm just gonna come right up along here, and you're gonna see where it's supposed to be mounted to the frame. Should be pretty secure. This is missing about half of its clip, so I'll make sure I secure it in afterward. This purple right here is a little lock, it's holding it from coming separated. I like to just come right in between here, pop that up. Now we'll separate this, just take a peek, make sure you don't see any funny colors. If you were to come right down along here, we're gonna get this clip off of here as well. Just give it a little twist, lift it up, grab that ABS wire, carefully set it aside. The next thing we're going to do is remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the knuckle. Okay. That comes right off. I'm just gonna go ahead and put it on there just a couple threads for now. Now let's use a 36-millimeter socket to remove our axle nut. Behind there, there's a washer. Go ahead and remove that as well. Let's go ahead and blast this with some penetrant.
The next thing we need to do is separate the axle from the bearing. I'm going to use this punch right here and go right in the center. You definitely don't wanna use a hammer and potentially damage the threads. The next thing we need to do is remove our mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle, use an 18-millimeter. Carefully hang your caliper, so it's putting no pressure on your flex hoses. So, now let's just double-check to make sure this upper ball joint nut is still on there a few good threads, it hasn't loosened upon us. And then we'll move down here to the lower ball joint nut. Remove that as well. Take that, and just put it on a couple threads.
Okay, so now it's gonna be time to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle right here. Pay special attention to anything that's delicate that you don't want ruined, such as an ABS wire. Make sure that that's secure and safely out of the way. Go ahead and take your nice little hammer. And we're going to bonk right here on the knuckle itself. As you can tell it's separated, we can move along. So, now let's push down on this. Remove that nut. And carefully draw this down. Now if you're worried the knuckle with a rotor is going to be too heavy, you can go ahead and use a Torx bit right here, remove that bolt, and take the rotor right off. The problem with removing it like that is you're gonna have to clean up the mating surface between the wheel bearing and the rotor itself. So, now I'm going to take my hammer again and I'm going to come right down here and we're going to hit right on the knuckle itself until this comes down. There we are. Carefully lift up, remove the ball joint nut. Carefully lower this down, remove your knuckle.
The next thing you're going to want to do is support your lower control arm so that you're not putting maximum pressure on your front shock/strut. If you are, you can potentially damage it, because we're going to be using a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the lower ball joint to break it free.
Now to install the lower ball joint, we're gonna want to take the boot off of it first. So, I'm just going to use a nice small screwdriver, pry bar, weasel it in between. Then just kind of separate the two. Be careful not to damage the boot, of course, because we're going to be using it. The next thing we need is a ball joint kit with a cup that's going to fit right up against this lip. We're going to come right underneath, and then we're going to press this right up and in. Right along the bottom. I'm going to use a cup that looks like this, with a hole in the bottom, that's for the stud to go through. It's going to press right up against this ridge right here. Take this cup, something that's hollow enough to make sure that the top part of the ball joint can fit inside. Put it right over the top. Now we're going to take our ball joint C-clamp, put it right over the top, bottom it out. Just check to make sure that the cup is centered to approximately where the ball joints going to be.
Now we're going to tighten this up. As we do that, we want to check this ridge and make sure it matches up directly along this control arm. As you can tell, the ball joint ridge is directly against the control arm right here. Before I release any pressure, I'm just going to give the control arm a couple light bonks with my hammer, just for a little bit of vibration to help make sure this is seated securely. That should be pretty great. Carefully remove your tool. Make sure you install your clamp. To do that, just use these little pliers right here. They fit inside the holes, and then you can spread it. Slide it right over. Make sure it's sitting inside the roof all the way around. If it isn't, just work at it until it is. Now we're going to install our boot. Just carefully bring it up here. I like to try to start it on one side, so I'll go on the side farthest away from me. Then I'll use some pliers and just kind of roll the lip right on. Obviously, be careful not to poke any holes in the boot. Inspect it for any damage. Make sure that it's completely secured. This looks perfect.
Go ahead and take your knuckle. I'm going to start it on the axle a little bit, then slide it over the lower ball joint stud. Lift it up. Kink it to the side and start on that lower ball joint nut. Wiggle the axle around. Should slide right in. Now we're going to use a bar, we're going to pull this upper ball joint down into here. Get the nut, go ahead and start it on there. Just going to take my bar, and try to hold pressure on the lower ball joint to the knuckle. And then we're going to go ahead and try to tighten it up. So, now you'd want to torque this to 37-foot-pounds. If for some reason you can't get your torque wrench in there, like I can't, I would just continue with my wrench and make sure it's nice and tight. [vocalization]. Perfect.
Now it's time to torque up that lower ball joint nut as well. Torque it to 37-foot-pounds. Now what we want to do is make sure that our slot is lined up with the hole that goes through the ball joint stud, so we can make sure we install our cotter pin. Go ahead and slide that through. If for some reason yours is not lined up when you torqued it, you need to continue tightening, not loosening, until it's lined up with the next available slot. Go ahead and peen that over and lock it in. All right. So, now it's gonna be time to get the caliper on here. Just go ahead and slide it right over the rotor. Now we're gonna line up those bolt holes. I like to use some red threadlocker on these bolts. And start them in there. Okay. Let's bottom them out. Now let's go ahead and torque these 248-foot-pounds. Now we'll just go ahead and take that tie rod end, put right through the knuckle. Take your nut, start it on there. We're gonna bottom it out. Now you're gonna torque this to 44-foot-pounds. That's torqued.
The next thing we're gonna do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm going to grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through and just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's going to be time to get the washer with the axle nut on there. Go ahead and slide the pair on. Go ahead and use your 36-millimeter socket, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it. Just gonna put a little splash of never-seize in here, I've got my mounting bolt. Let's use our 10-millimeter and snug it up. Make sure it's fully secured, make sure there's nothing binding your flex hose for your brakes are not twisted in any way.
Now it's time to get our ABS wire re-secured. Let's go ahead and put it in right here. Make sure it cannot come loose. If this can hang around and move around, it could potentially get damaged. Go ahead and connect this in now. Listen for a click, give it a tug. Go ahead and slide in your lock. Now we're going to take our mounting hardware here and just slide it right down in there. It's just a little push clip. Give it a nice tug, make sure it's definitely secured.
So, of course, next, you'd want to go ahead and torque down this nut right here. And that's going to be torqued to 177-foot-pounds. You can do that several ways. If you were to just do it like this, what you're going to notice is it just keeps spinning. If that was the case, what you would do is you can use a pry bar coming straight through these lug studs like this down to the ground. And so it holds it from spinning on you and then you would torque it. If you didn't want to go through the process doing that you can go ahead and throw the wheel up on there and then go through the center hole, which is the way that I'm going to do it.
We'll grab those lug nuts, start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now we'll bring it down to the ground and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. It's time to torque down this axle nut, 177-foot pounds like I said. Torqued. Now let's do the lug nuts,140-foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued. Now it's gonna be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back, you're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's gonna go pretty much just like this. Light bonk, and then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty and take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
First, we're gonna take the center cap off. I'm gonna use a pry bar. If you don't wanna scratch the wheel, just use a rag. Wrap the pry bar around the rag and slide it out. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off. I'm gonna take the brake caliper off with the bracket. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these bracket bolts out.
Slide this out. Use a brake caliper hanger. There you go. Make sure there's no tension on the brake hose. Now, I'm gonna take the screw out. I'm gonna use a T30 socket. Grab the rotor and slide it off. Take this nut off, use a 36-millimeter socket. And take the washer off. And just make sure that the axle is loose from the hub. You can tap that with a hammer. You should use a punch so that you don't ruin the splines on the axle.
Now, I'm gonna take this ABS harness off of here and use a trim tool, just get underneath here. Disconnect it here. There's a little retainer right there. You can use a pocket screwdriver. There we go. And just push it down, disconnect it. Then you can do the same right here. Slide that up. And then there's another retainer right here, and then just pry it out just like that. If you can squeeze those tabs with some needle-nose pliers, that works too. And that harness is good right there.
Now, the housing of the hub has three holes that are bolted on, so you need to take those bolts out. Those are on the backside of the knuckle. I'm gonna take these bolts out. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. And there's another one right here. Take those out. Okay. Then just grab the hub and slide it out. And if it doesn't come out that easy, you can take a hammer and just tap it from the backside or even a slide hammer and take the shield off. I'm just gonna take a wire brush to just clean up some of the rust and just use a little anti-seize so it doesn't seize up in there, doesn't rust up in there. Just use a little thin coat on the surface.
And take the dust shield. Make sure you have the ABS wire go through the dust shield first. Line that up and slide it in position. And take the three bolts and get those started. And then I'll take a torque wrench and torque these bolts to 133-foot pounds. There we go. Put the washer back on, put the nut on. Then tighten up the nut and torque it.
I'm gonna use a pry bar in between the lugs to prevent the hub from spinning and torque this nut to 177-foot pounds. It'll check that. There we go. And take the wiring harness and put this back in position, lock it in place. Looks good. Reconnect the connector and push down on the lock and push back in place. Looks good. Just take a little anti-seize and just put a thin coat on just to prevent future rust.
Take the rotor, line it up. Line the hole up with the threaded hole and put the screw in, and just snug it up. It's good. And take the caliper and slide it off the hanger, and slide it over the rotor. Take the bolts. You can put some thread-locking compound on the bolts and get these started. I'm gonna tighten these bolts to 148-foot pounds. Put the wheel back on and the lug nuts.
Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot pounds. I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern so it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again and double-check. You're good. Center cap, put it back on. Because we pulled the caliper off, there's gonna be a little air gap between the rotor and the brake pads so just pump the brakes. Make sure you get rid of that air gap and you should be good to go.
