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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to be showing you how to remove and replace your front brakes. We're doing this on the passenger side, but the process will be the same on the driver's side. We always recommend you replace these in a pair, as well as wearing a dust mask when you're working on it, as the old pads are going to be full of rust and corrosion and brake dust that you don't want to breathe in while you're working.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13-22mm socket, wrenches, ratchet, socket extension, breaker bar, pry bar, torque wrench, T30 Torx bit, flat head screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, groovelock pliers, brake cleaner, grease, bungee cord, jack and jack stands, gloves, dust mask, and safety glasses.
Loosen your lug nuts using a twenty-two millimeter deep socket and a breaker bar. Raise and support your vehicle. You can do this with a jack and jack stands at home, but we're going to put it up on a lift to make it easier to show. Once you have your vehicle in the air, you can finish removing your lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire.
Brace your lug studs with a pry bar so we can turn a rotor screw out with a T30 Torx bit and a ratchet. Once you get it cracked loose, you should be able to take that pry bar out of the way and just spin the rest out nice and easy. Now this screw isn't critical to how your brakes function, it's just designed to hold the rotor upright while we work on the rest of the brake components. It is nice to have, so be sure to keep it close.
Using a 13mm socket and a ratchet, we'll remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper. Be sure to loosen both of them before removing either one fully, or when you go to turn the other one, you can cause the caliper to twist around and it makes it a lot more difficult to remove. Keep a hand on there when you take the last bolt out so it doesn't fall and risk tearing that brake line. Work the caliper off, and using a bungee cord, mechanic's wire, or a zip tie, go ahead and secure the caliper up and out of the way.
Go ahead and pull the brake pads out. You may find this to go a little easier with the help of a small, flat blade screwdriver. We're going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar to break these caliper bracket bolts here loose. Again, this is another bolt that you're going to want to make sure you get both of them cracked loose before you remove either one fully. Otherwise, when we were to try to crack this loose with the top out, the whole caliper bracket would roll out and make it more difficult to remove. We'll go ahead and switch over to a 21mm socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper bracket from the spindle.
Now, our rotor isn't going to just pull off. What you can do is: if you aren't going to save the rotor, which we don't recommend you do anytime you change the brake pads. We recommend you do the rotors as well because you can see we have this rust buildup here. While you can get them machined, that usually brings them down so close to the factory limit that they get hot and warp more easily. If you are changing your rotors, you can hit it forward right on the rotor surface to break the rust loose. If you want to save them for some reason, you can hit here, very careful not to hit the studs, to release the rust.
Here we have our old parts that we removed from our vehicle, and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have the same six lug bolt pattern on our rotors. We have the same beveled hole here for our rotor screw. The brake pads are exactly the same size and shape. We even have a new audible pad indicator here, or a brake squealer, which is going to hit your rotor when your pads start to wear down to the point that it's time to change them. That will start to squeak against the rotor and give you an audible heads-up that it's time to get a brake service. The rotors are the same thickness. These actually are a little bit thicker, because they haven't been worn down like the old ones have here.
It's still a nice vented rotor, which is going to help dissipate the heat generated when braking. They're the same on the backside as well. If your old brakes are worn out, glazed, squealing, grinding, or you have rust buildup, or a warped rotor causing a vibration in the pedal, these new parts from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment. Get your vehicle stopping short and safe, just like it should, and fix you up right.
Again, anytime that you're going to be doing something that kicks up dust and debris when working on a vehicle, we recommend you wear a dust mask. Now, this hub isn't too bad, but we always clean them just to make sure that everything's nice when we put our new parts on. Use a steel wire brush to remove all that dirt and debris, all this rust buildup from the hub, so we can put a coat of grease on there and make sure we don't have to fight our rotor off on our next brake job, like we just had to here. Once you've removed all the debris from your hub surface, go ahead and apply a thin coat of grease to the flat portion and around the center bore here to make sure that we don't have anymore corrosion buildup, and that our rotors come right off by hand next time we have to do our brakes.
You always want to clean your brake caliper carrier whenever you take it off. Make sure it gets some nice, fresh grease on it to remove any old corrosion and buildup that's going to make our new brake parts not work smoothly. All we got to do here is peel the boot back off of the slide. Take the slide out. Wipe the old grease off with a paper towel or a clean rag. Give it a quick check that there are no nicks or burrs anywhere on it, no rust buildup. Just nice and clean and smooth. Just take a little bit of brake grease, dab on our finger. We’ll just apply a thin layer of that nice, new grease onto our slide to make sure it keeps the moisture and corrosion out, and keeps our new pads and caliper moving nice and smooth. Once that's done, we'll reinstall it into our caliper carrier, and push it in so the boot pops back on, and do the same thing to the other side. Now we'll take our brake hardware off here.
This is just a shim, or an insulator as they call it sometimes, to keep the pad from making noise while it moves. Keep it in there nice and tight. Pop that off. Again, with our steel wire brush, we'll just get in there and remove any corrosion and buildup. Now we will not grease this portion of it. We will take our slide, and this one's not bad, so we can just clean this up with a brush. These are really rusted or cracked anywhere, you can replace them. As long as they clean up nicely, looks like this one will, you can just go ahead and take all that off with your brush.
Once you get all of that buildup off of there, and it is okay to have a little bit, you just want to make sure you get the bulk of it off. We'll go ahead and snap it back into our caliper bracket. Then we'll repeat these steps on the opposite side. Now some people like to grease the slides directly, but I think it's a lot more efficient and a lot neater to grease the pad before we install it into the slides. If you want to do it this way, then just put a little grease on your finger and apply it to the contact surfaces on your slides. Or, when we install our pads, you can do the same thing and just grease the bottom part where it's actually going to contact this metal.
Install your rotor onto the hub backwards. Spray down the contact surface with some brake cleaner. These rotors are stored with a compound called Cosmoline on them to keep them from corroding from the factory. It's slippery, so if you leave it on there your car's not going to brake well until you've burned it all off. Once we've cleaned that side, we'll flip it over. Be sure to line up that beveled hole with the threaded hole here for our rotor screw. Reinstall our rotor the right way, and spray off this surface as well. As I was saying earlier, the rotor screw is not critical to the operation of your brakes. If you've broken it or lost it, it's not the end of the world. However, you can see our rotor hangs on an angle here, which means when we go to install our caliper carrier, our brake pads, and eventually our caliper, this little bit of angle is going to cause us some headache putting it back together. We'll push it back on flat, and with our T30 Torx socket and ratchet, we'll reinstall that screw into our rotor. Now it sits on there nice and flat and straight. It'll make our reassembly go that much smoother.
Reinstall your brake caliper carrier and start your two 21mm bolts in by hand. Tighten them down with your 21mm socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. If you didn't grease your slides earlier, grease the ears of your brake pads where they're going to contact the slides. Just a little bit is fine. Then install them into the slides on your caliper carrier.
Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, C-clamps, or a proper brake piston compressor tool, slowly compress the piston back into the caliper. If you do this too fast, you'll see the other one start moving. If it moves too far, you'll actually push it out of the caliper, which makes a big mess and it means we're going to have to bleed our brakes and add a whole lot of trouble to this job. Bring them down until they're all the way flush. If you go too fast, you may have to go back and forth a couple of times just to make sure that both pistons are fully seated before we try to install them over the pads.
Don't forget to apply a thin coat of grease to the back of your pads before installing your caliper. Remove whatever you used to secure your caliper up and out of the way. Make sure that your flex hose is not twisted or kinked anywhere. Reinstall your caliper over the slides, and your two 13mm bolts into the slides. Tighten these up with your 13mm socket and ratchet. Torque the guide pin bolts to 47 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get your lug nuts on as tight as you can. The right way to torque a six lug wheel is to make little triangles, so we'll go like this. We'll go across the wheel, and then we'll make another little triangle this way.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
The first thing we need to do to get started on these brakes is to raise and support the vehicle and then remove all your lug nuts and then the wheel. We have a clear view of our caliper. We need to push back this piston right there. Use a nice pry bar and slowly push it back. There we are. The next thing we need to do is remove these two caliper slider mounting bolts. Remove and inspect your caliper, make sure you don't see any brake fluid. Set it aside. Now, let's go ahead and remove our pads from the brackets. Now, let's go ahead and remove our caliper bracket bolts here. Remove your bracket, set it aside. Looking at the outer portion of the rotor, we're going to remove this little plug right here. There it is. Now, let's use a little bit of penetrant and spray the areas on the rotor that connects to the hub. Let's remove this Torx-headed bolt. Start on one of your lug nuts, and then bonk on the rotor to break it free from the hub.
If you find that this doesn't want to come off, you just have to de-adjust the e-brake shoes. You want to spin the rotor so the inside of this hole lines up with your adjuster screw in there, and then turn the adjuster until it loosens up. Remove your rotor. Now, let's clean down this inner surface of the hub and the outer surface of the hub. Using a nice collection bucket, let's spray down this entire area with some parts cleaner. Here's your adjuster. Let's hit it with some penetrant as well. Now, let's put on a little bit of copper never-seize on the mating surfaces of the hub. Copper never-seize right inside that mounting hole as well. So, the next thing we need to do now is clean up our brand new rotor braking surfaces.
We'll get that outer braking surface. Turn it over. And now we're going to clean up these two surfaces. Don't forget where the e-brake shoes ride. Let's get this on the car. To put this back on the vehicle, we want to make sure we line up the hole right here on the hub with the hole on the rotor. Perfect. Start in that mounting bolt and we'll snug it up. The next thing we need to do is adjust our emergency brake shoes on the inside there. We want to do that until this can't turn anymore, and then we're going to back it off a little bit. Just find that adjuster and adjust this all the way in so they touch the rotor. Okay. So that's adjusted so it's touching now. I can't turn this at all. Let's back it off just a couple of clicks here.
Now, we can start to spin and you can hear it just barely starting to touch. You don't want any drag, but you do want to hear it just barely starting to touch, just like this. A little boot back in here. Now, let's make our way over to a bench so we can clean up our caliper bracket. One of the first things I like to do is remove my sliders. Give them a nice little twist, take the boot off of there, then hold it like this, and pull the boot completely off. Set that aside on its corresponding side there. This one as well. Perfect. Let's move along to removing our tins. Set those aside for recycling. Awesome. The next thing we like to do is clean up these areas where the tin was. You want to make sure it's nice and clean with no buildup. All four corners look great. Now, we need to clean up our caliper slider ports. A little bit of parts cleaner and a nice bore brush. There we are.
Use your brush, come along the edge where the boot's supposed to be. Make sure there's no debris along there. We got that edge clean. Let's go ahead and spray it down again. And now, we'll do the same to the other side. This looks great. Let's set it aside. Let's move along to cleaning up our sliders. That's going to be the same process for either slider. Go ahead and clean them down. Look at them. And then you want to inspect this area right here. You want to make sure that there's no crud inside there as well. Anything that gets in between there could potentially mean moisture gets inside and contaminates your slider. Okay. So, now this one looks pretty great. We'll set that aside. Now we're going to clean up the boots. You want to make sure you get off all this gunk, especially the stuff on the inside there. Pull that through. Now we're just going to give it a nice wipe.
So, now we've got our slider and our boot cleaned down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's continue on with the bracket here. We're going to take a little bit of this caliper grease and I'm going to come right along this lip right there. Do the same on this one. Just a little bit will do. Now, we'll take a little bit of grease, go right inside that caliper slider port, do the same on the other side. Moving along, we're going to grab this slider, put some lubricant on there as well. Something that's important to mention is getting up inside that lip right there. That's where the boot's gonna ride. Super important. Perfect. Go ahead and take your slider boot. Put it on just like this. Now, we're going to slide this right in. Give it a nice squeeze. And you want to make sure that the boot's sitting on the groove all the way around. That looks good. It's on the bracket. Pull it out, make sure it's on the slider as well. Work it in there nice, and do the same to the other side.
Now, let's move along to adding a little bit of grease right along these areas right here. Spread it out so it's a thin layer. Time for those new caliper tins. Go ahead and slide it in. Squeeze right in the center here. Make sure that the locking clips are up against the caliper bracket. Do the same on the other side. We can go ahead and mount our caliper bracket. Let's clean these bolt threads. With those bolts cleaned up with a little bit of new thread locker on there, let's put our bracket back in here. We'll start in the bolts, and then we'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 129 foot-pounds. It's gonna be time to install our brand new pads. You want one with the indicator and you want that one on the inside with the indicator facing up. Let me slide that right in.
This is the hardest part getting the tin. There we are. Perfect. Let's move along to prepping our caliper itself. You want to put a tiny bit of grease around the piston and then, of course, both of these ears. Caliper on here, put it right over those pads. Take your two bolts with a tiny bit of red thread locker, start them both in, and then we'll torque these to 20 foot-pounds. Let's quickly inspect what we did. Make sure everything's nice and tight. Make sure your flex hose isn't twisted. Now, let's get the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, get it down on the ground, and torque it to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. The next thing that you'd want to do is go ahead and pump up the brake pedal so it's nice and firm, and then come out here and check your brake fluid.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. Use a 13-millimeter socket. Loosen them up first. All right. Now I'm just gonna take a straight blade screwdriver and just pry the caliper over a little bit just to compress the pistons a little bit. And that's good. Now I can slide the caliper off. And then take a brake caliper hanger and hang the caliper from the coil spring. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Now I'll take the brake pads off. Now we're gonna take these caliper bracket bolts off. Use a 21-millimeter socket. Break those free. And take those bolts out and slide that bracket right off. I'm gonna take this screw out. Use a t30 socket. Now I'll take a hammer and just hit right on these parts of the rotor. Try not to hit the studs. There we go. And slide it off.
Now I wanna clean up this hub a little bit. I'm gonna use a die grinder and just clean up some of this rust. I'm not gonna go too crazy. Just lightly sand it. Or you could use a wire brush. I'm just gonna take a light coat of anti-seize and just go around the hub. Now I'm gonna take this rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and wipe it off and then spin it around. You wanna line this hole up with that threaded hole. And do the same on this side. Now I'm gonna put this screw in and just snug it down. Now we're gonna clean up the brake caliper bracket. Take these slides off or anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight-blade screwdriver. Slide that off. You can do the same on the other side. And we wanna clean up some of this rust. You can use a wire brush or you can use a die grinder. Just be careful. Don't take off too much material. It's cleaned up. Just take some brake caliper grease. Just do a nice thin coat. And put this pad slide back on and walk it down and just another thin coat of brake caliper grease, right where the pads are gonna slide. Then you can do the same on the other side.
Now I'm gonna pull the caliper pins out just like that. You take a little bit of brake clean, brake parts cleaner, and just clean these off. And if it's extremely dirty, you can clean out the inside as well with brake parts cleaner. Take some caliper grease, slide it back in, and then just make sure you set this boot back around the pin. Then you can do the same for the other side. Now you can put this caliper bracket over the rotor and put these bolts in. You can use some thread-locking compound on these bolts.
Then we can torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Start with the top one and then the bottom. And then we'll take the brake pads and the one with the squealer or the brake warning indicator, it's gonna go on the inside with the tab facing up and the other one's gonna go on the outside. And I'll just take the caliper off the hanger. And I'm gonna use a brake caliper tool to compress the piston. It's going the wrong way. And just slowly compress the piston back into the caliper.
As you do this, this is gonna push brake fluid through the caliper, through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder. All right. Those pistons are compressed. Now I'm gonna take the caliper and make sure the hose isn't twisted and just slide it over the pads. And put the bolts back in and torque these bolts to 47 foot-pounds, starting with the top one.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on and put the lug nuts on. Now we're gonna tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again, double-check. And now you wanna pump the brake pedal. Just go nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check the fluid level and adjust accordingly.
