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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
In this video, we're going to be removing and replacing rear shocks in a 2010 GMC Acadia. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
Take the tire off. We're going to use a 22 mm socket and a breaker bar. You can use a 7/8, also. I'm just going to break all the lug nuts free. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift, but you can also do this with a jack and jack stands. Take the lug nuts off. We use our socket to twist them out. Take the wheel off.
So, here's the shock and, as you can see, all this stuff on here. This is all oil and dirt that's been because the shock is leaking.
I'm going to take this 21 mm nut off and this bolt. We're going to loosen it up with a 21 mm wrench and a socket and a ratchet. All right. We're going to loosen this nut. We're not going to take it off completely. I'm going to leave it right there.
Now, you can support underneath the control arm. We're going to use a screw jack. You could just use a floor jack if you're working on the ground. I'm just going to bring this up a little bit so that our shock is loose. Now, our shock bolt is loose. You can unscrew the nut, take the nut off and the washer, and then our bolt should come right up. Maybe a little bit more. Just like that.
Now, I can lower this back down. If you're working on the ground, you could leave it the way it is, but we have to lower the vehicle down to gain access to the upper shock bolts. I'm going to use and 18 mm wrench on this 18 mm nut, and then a 15 mm ratchet wrench on the bolt side. If your bolt's really rusty, you can use some penetrating oil. Ours doesn't look too bad. Pull the nut off, pull the bolt straight through, and take a medium pry bar and get in behind here and just pull it straight out. And there it is.
This is our old part. This is our old shock. This is our new shock from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, all the oil leaked out of this one, and that's what keeps the shock's ability to do its job. So, this one is not performing up to optimum level. As you can see, the design is very similar. Slight differences like this upper dust shield is metal, whereas the old one was plastic. It still has the same configuration up top, same down below. There is a washer that can go on this side. If you're doing the other side, you can put it on that side. It comes with this tie on here. You can take that off. You can do it in the car or take it off before you put it on. Get your part at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right. We're going to install our new shock in the back. It's a little tight right here. So, we can either loosen up some of these bolts and get it lined in, or you can take a little hammer and give it a little tap. Pull the brake line out of the way a little bit. Take the nut and stick the nut on.
Then, we're going to support our lower control arm again. If you were doing this on the ground, you could have left this supported before. Bring it up to the level of the shock. And then, take our bolt, and then that special washer is going to go in-between. It's got a angle side to it that's going to go towards the control arm, so stick that in first. Line our bolt up. I'm going to have to go up a little bit more. That's lined up. I'm going to take our washer, set the washer on, and then the nut and tighten that up.
Now, we're going to snug up this bolt with a 21 mm socket and a 21 mm wrench and ratchet. Now, we're going to torque the bolt to 74 foot-pounds. Now, we'll lower our lower control arm. Right.
Now, we're going to tighten this bolt and nut down on the 18 mm nut with a wrench and a ratchet wrench. 15 on the bolt side.
Now, we're going to tighten this bolt and nut down to 52 foot-pounds. Install our wheel. Put the lug nuts on.
Now, we're going to torque the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds. You're going to want to torque them in a star pattern so that the wheel will go flush to the rotor evenly.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
Remove the wheel, I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the wheel off. So I want to support the lower control arm. I am going to use a screw jack just to take the tension off the shock. You can use a floor jack or even a jack stand. Now I can use a 13/16-inch wrench or a 21-millimeter wrench, put it on the nut right here, and then a 21-millimeter socket, take this bolt out, and this bolt. All right. So that's separated down there. Now, before I take this bolt out here, I'm just going to loosen up these two bolts for this bracket. I don't have to take the bolts out completely, just loosen them. Use a 15-millimeter socket. That's good. Now I'll take that bolt out. Then take a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench and loosen this up. Take that bolt out. You can slide that bolt out, watch the brake hose. I'm going to slide that out. And to loosen that bracket up, that just makes sliding this out and the new one back in a lot easier.
Before we install the shock, you just want to exercise the shock, just compress it and let it expand. It's going to get the fluid to go through the system and do its thing properly and then it'll be all set to put in the vehicle. And take the shock and the bolt, slide it in position, watch out for that brake hose. Just like that and get this started up here. And before I tighten that all up, let's put the lower bolt in. Now, there is this washer that is domed up a little bit, now that's going to go right in this position here on the control arm. And you can take the bolt, slide it through. If you have to move the control arm up a little bit, you can move it up. And take the washer and the nut, get that started. Now we'll tighten this and torque this to 52 foot-pounds. I'll just snug these two bolts up. Now I can lower the screw jack. Now put the tire back on. Now we'll torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern, that way it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again, double-check.
Tools used
Remove the wheel, I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the wheel off. So I want to support the lower control arm. I am going to use a screw jack just to take the tension off the shock. You can use a floor jack or even a jack stand. Now I can use a 13/16-inch wrench or a 21-millimeter wrench, put it on the nut right here, and then a 21-millimeter socket, take this bolt out, and this bolt. All right. So that's separated down there. Now, before I take this bolt out here, I'm just going to loosen up these two bolts for this bracket. I don't have to take the bolts out completely, just loosen them. Use a 15-millimeter socket. That's good. Now I'll take that bolt out. Then take a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench and loosen this up. Take that bolt out. You can slide that bolt out, watch the brake hose. I'm going to slide that out. And to loosen that bracket up, that just makes sliding this out and the new one back in a lot easier.
Before we install the shock, you just want to exercise the shock, just compress it and let it expand. It's going to get the fluid to go through the system and do its thing properly and then it'll be all set to put in the vehicle. And take the shock and the bolt, slide it in position, watch out for that brake hose. Just like that and get this started up here. And before I tighten that all up, let's put the lower bolt in. Now, there is this washer that is domed up a little bit, now that's going to go right in this position here on the control arm. And you can take the bolt, slide it through. If you have to move the control arm up a little bit, you can move it up. And take the washer and the nut, get that started. Now we'll tighten this and torque this to 52 foot-pounds. I'll just snug these two bolts up. Now I can lower the screw jack. Now put the tire back on. Now we'll torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern, that way it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again, double-check.
