Chevrolet GMC Buick Front 16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA66561

I'm going to take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm going to take this nut off first. I need some locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning. Now what you could do is take an 18 millimeter wrench, and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way, but this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. And you might have to tighten this up a little more. And take that nut off. Remove these hold-downs for this ABS wire or wheel speed sensor wire. Just use a trim tool to get underneath here. Pry that off. Then over here just like that. Set that aside.

Now the new strut is probably going to be slightly different. But just to get the alignment somewhat close, just take a marker and just mark the knuckle. Try to put the new strut close to that. You're still going to need an alignment after you're done, but at least this will bring it close. Take a 24-millimeter socket and take these nuts off. And then same with the bottom one.

Now take a hammer and slide these bolts up. They are slotted, so that's what's keeping them in the knuckle. All right. Now we can separate the knuckle from the strut, and then just slide it to the side. And you want to be careful. You don't want the axle to pop out. So try to push on this, and then you can use a bungee cord, or a bungee cable, and just slide it over here. Just find something that you can attach it to underneath. Just go around the back just like that. And that's just going to prevent the axle from popping out and to make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.

You need to remove the wipers. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get underneath the cover right there. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take that nut off. And grab the wiper arm, and just rock it back and forth. Or you can use a wiper arm removal tool, and slide it up just like that. Then do the same for the other side. Take this ground adapter off. Just use a 15-millimeter wrench. And because of the way this trim panel is, we're going to need to remove this panel. Take a trim tool. Just get underneath here. Do that on both sides and then remove all these clips. That's a clip right here and throughout the rest of the panel.

Now just grab this panel and slide it out of the way. Remove these trim pieces on both sides. Use a trim tool. Take these clips out. Now I'm going to remove all these pushpins. Just use a trim tool along the base of the cowl. Just take this fuse box cover off just because it's in the way a little bit. Just push down on these locks and then slide it out of the way. You can slide this up. All right, so lifting this up and then sliding the back side down. There is clips that go underneath the glass holding it in.

Now we don't have to take this off completely. You just need to get it out of the way. You can take this washer hose off. Just slide this out. You can just take a screwdriver or something to brace this up just like that. You just need to access the top of the strut. Now I'm going to take these nuts off at this top of the strut mount. Use a 15-millimeter socket. I'm going to take two off, and then before I take the last one off, I'm actually going to hold the strut, with the strut, and take the last nut off. And slide the strut down, and then tip it, and slide it out.

Now, we're going to take the new strut. I'm going to hold one of the nuts in my hand. Now slide the new strut between the brake hose and the axle, and then tip it up. And try to line those studs up, up top. And I'm going to put the nut on from up top. And now I can let go from below, and just get the other nuts started. I'm not going to tighten these down yet. Just get them all started.

Now you can take that bungee cord off, and just slide the knuckle in position. Take these bolts, line them up. Now leaving it loose up top makes it easier to line this stuff up. If you tighten those up, it's not as easy. You can get that lined up. And then try to...try to line the strut up with those lines that you made. And then we'll tighten these down. Now just make sure that line lines up pretty close, and take your 24-millimeter socket. I'm going to snug these down with the gun. Once you see the struts starting to move towards the knuckle then stop. And then torque those 2 nuts to 144 foot-pounds.

Now I'm going to take this wheel speed sensor wire, and push the retainers back in their place. And take the sway bar, slide that into the bottom of the strut. Pick the nut. Put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. Torque this to 59 foot-pounds. All right, now you can put the tire back on. And then put the lug nuts on. Now we're going to tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.

I'll just go around again. Double-check. Then I'm going to snug these up first. And now I'm going to torque those nuts to 33 foot-pounds. Now I'll just take this screwdriver out of the way. Get the cowl positioned underneath the windshield properly. Now I'll just take this cover, and slide that in position, and put the retainer in. Do the same on the other side.

Now make sure this is all lined up with these clips in. Now take this panel, slide this in position. Make sure that lines up. Put this weatherstrip on both sides. Now take all these push retainers and put those back in. And put the fuse box cover back on. And take this ground adapter, screw that back in. Just snug it up with a wrench. And take the wiper arm, reposition it on the windshield. Sometimes you can see where it was from before, where you could have marked it with a crayon. And put the nut on, and torque this nut to 29 foot-pounds. Do the same for the other one. And close the cap. Now after you're done with this repair, you're going to want to take the vehicle to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned, so you don't have premature tire wear.

I'm going to remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and then pull the wheel off. Now, I'll take this axle nut off. Use a 34-millimeter socket. Now, I'm going to take this caliper off. I'm not replacing the brake, so I'm going to take the caliper and bracket off together. Take a 21-millimeter socket and a breaker bar and take these two bolts out. Take those out. I'm just going to take a screwdriver and just pry the piston in a little bit. That's good. We can slide this off, and just use a brake caliper hanger and just hang it on the strut assembly, on the coil spring. Now, I want to take this rotor off. There's a screw right here. Use a T30 socket. Take that off. That off, and take the rotor right off. Then take this wheel speed sensor off. Use a 10-millimeter socket. Take that bolt out. And you can use some pliers and try to wiggle this sensor out a little bit. Just be careful. Don't break it. There you go. Now, on the backside of the knuckle, there's three bolts. You're going to take a 13-millimeter socket and take those bolts out. All right. Take that out.

Now, from the backside of the hub, I'm just going to take a hammer and just tap it. You could try to use a sledge hammer, but sometimes it's easier just to use a hammer. There we go. And slide it off. You can take a wire brush. Just clean up some of this corrosion around the knuckle. That's why the hub was so difficult to remove. Clean that up. Make sure this spacer is on here on the axle. If it isn't there, just check your other hub. Maybe it got stuck to it. Now, I'm going to take a little bit of copper anti-seize and just do a thin coat, so if it ever has to be removed again, it won't be so difficult. Do a thin coat. Now, take this shield and the new hub, and just line it up like this, and take the bolts for the hub.

Go back in from the backside, get those started, and then torque those bolts to 89 foot-pounds. And take the wheel speed sensor, line that back up. Put the bolt in and snug it down. That's good. And take the rotor, put the rotor on, and take this screw. Put that screw back in and snug it up. All right. Now, grab the caliper. Take the hanger off. Now, we can slide it over the rotor and take the bolts. Get the bolts started. Then you can torque those two bolts to 129 foot-pounds, and put the axle nut on. And then I'm going to torque this to 173 foot-pounds and put the tire on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now, I'll go around again. Just double-check.

I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. We're gonna take this nut off first. I'm using locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning.

Now, what you could do is take an 18-millimeter wrench and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way. But this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. I might have to tighten this up a little more, and take that nut off. Now, that that's separated. I also separated the other side and that makes it easier, so, it's a good idea to do them both in pairs.

And then you can slide this down, and then you can gain access to this nut. We'll do the same on this one. Use some locking pliers, hold the stud from spinning, 18-millimeter socket, it comes right off.

Take the new link and slide it up. You're going to slide the stud towards the middle of the vehicle, and put the nut on using an 18-millimeter wrench then a 18-millimeter socket. Torque this down first. Torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds.

Slide that into the bottom of the strut. Take the nut, put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. And torque this to 59 foot-pounds.

All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on, and the put the lug nuts on. Now, you're gonna tighten the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go round again to double-check.

I'm gonna remove the wheel, use a 22 millimeter socket. I'm gonna pull the wheel off. I'm gonna take this ball joint nut off. You can use a 21 millimeter wrench to loosen it up. And take that off. I'm gonna use a pickle fork to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. There's different types of tools that you can use. There we go. It's separated. I'm gonna take these two bolts out. There is nuts on the top. Use an 18 millimeter wrench, those on the nuts. And then use an 18 millimeter socket to take the bolts out.

Now to remove this bolt and nut, we're gonna have to loosen up the link for the sway bar. The sway bar is in the way right now, if we were to pull that bolt out. You can try to slide that out, but most likely it's gonna be in your way, so we have to take the link off on this side and on the opposite side. I'm just gonna use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take an 18 millimeter wrench and we can loosen up the nut. And this stud is gonna spin, so you wanna use an 8 millimeter socket, put it on the stud. You could try to loosen this up with an impact. But the stud is just gonna spin.

And take the nut off. Now you can take the stud out, just like that. With both of those links disconnected, then you can slide the whole sway bar up, and then you can access that bolt. And you can use a 21 millimeter socket and a 21 millimeter wrench on the nut. And loosen this up. You can slide the bolt up. Now just take a pry bar and just pry this out. There you go. Now take a 24 millimeter socket to take this nut off.

Then you can slide this bushing off. Now, you're gonna take that protector off and slide this bushing on. Now where this ring is, that goes towards the inside of the bushing. On this bushing it happens to have this blue area right here, the outside is white. Take the nut and just snug this up a little bit. We're gonna torque it later. And loosen it up a little. We want this to be able to move. I'm gonna take the new control arm and then just slide it in position. Take the ball joint, slide it into the knuckle. You can take the nut. Get that started. Now, get this bolt lined up, and put the nut on. Now, I'm gonna take these two bolts. Slide those through. Put the nut on top. Now, I'm gonna snug these down first. Use an 18 millimeter wrench up top, 18 millimeter socket down below.

Now, I'm gonna tighten these bolts to 55 foot pounds. Now, I'm gonna put a screw jack underneath the control arm and safely support the control arm. You wanna get the control arm as close to ride height as possible. It would be ideal if you could put the tire back on, put the vehicle down and then torque the nut here and torque the bolt here, but it's not that easy to get a torque wrench under there. So do the best you can to get this close. Then you can use a 13/16 wrench or a 21 millimeter wrench, 21 millimeter socket on the bolt and torque this to 111 foot pounds.

I'm gonna torque this nut to 144 foot pounds. Now we can use our wrench while this lower control arm is still supported, and tighten this nut up. And then once you get it tight, if you have the ability to put a torque wrench on there, you can torque that bolt, that nut to 30 foot pounds and then an additional 90 degrees. Now, I can lower this down, and slide that up, the sway bar up. Slide the link stud through this bracket on the strut, get the nut started and use an 18 millimeter wrench, 18 millimeter socket to tighten this up. And torque this nut to 59 foot pounds. I'm gonna put the tire on.

Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.

Now I'll go around again just to double check. Now when you've done this job, you're gonna need to bring the vehicle to a shop to have it aligned, otherwise you're gonna have premature tire wear.

I'm gonna take these lug nuts off to take the wheel off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. ...wheel. Pull it off. Now I'm gonna take the caliper off with the bracket together, because I'm not replacing the brakes. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to take these bolts off the caliper bracket. There's two of them.

And we can slide the whole caliper and bracket off. You might have to twist this a little bit just to compress the piston. That's good. And now we'll just hang this. Use a brake caliper hanger, and just find a place to hang it from. Just hang it from the shock right here. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Looks good right there. Take this screw out. I'm gonna use a T30 socket. And take a hammer, if this rotor doesn't come off right away, if it's not loose, you can tap on these areas right there, and just be careful of the studs. And slide it out. There's a little bit of rust on here. I'm just gonna spray some rust penetrant. Let it soak for a minute.

Now, take a 34-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. The wheel speed sensor is located right here. There's a 10 millimeter bolt. Just take that bolt out. And pull that bolt out, and just grab the sensor. You might have to use some pliers and twist it. Pull it out, set it aside. And you need to remove these three bolts that are on the backside of the knuckle. Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take those bolts out.

I don't wanna ruin the threads on the end of the axle, so I'm just gonna use a punch and a hammer. Just give it a tap. Try to loosen up the axle from the hub. Now you can use a slide hammer. You can try hitting this with a hammer on the backside and trying to get it off, but sometimes a slide hammer is the only way to go. Just try to pull it off. Now, that didn't work for us. Today, this hub is stuck onto the knuckle a little bit too much. So what I'm gonna do is take these shoes off, so that I can get a hammer from the side, and hopefully that works a little bit better.

I'm gonna take these springs off. I'm just gonna use some needle nose pliers, some locking needle nose pliers, and just slide it out of the way. Take that off. Now I'm gonna take this adjuster out. You can use a screwdriver, pry the shoes out a little bit. We could adjust it down a little bit as well. And slide that out. And there's a bottom spring. You can use that same needle nose pliers, or locking pliers, and slide this spring out. There we go. And slide that spring out.

Now we'll take these springs out. You're gonna use a tool like this, and just push down, twist. You gotta hold the pin from the backside, and slide it out. Do the same on the other side. Take this shoe out. And slide it out. This pin is in my way, so I'll just slide this pin out and set it aside. Now I'm gonna use a hammer and just give it a couple of hits right here. There it goes. It's moving a little bit. Hit it from the other side. Be careful. You don't wanna mess up the threads. You could always put the nut on the end of it. There we go. And there it is.

I'm just gonna clean up this area right here. You can use a file or a wire brush. Get some of the corrosion. If you use a file, just don't go too deep. Don't file away the metal. Just clean it up. Gonna use some anti-seize so that if I ever have to take this hub off again, it's gonna be a little bit easier. Just gonna put a little on the splines of the axle. And just make sure you have the shield in the right position. Take a new hub, and line it up. And just push it on. And you're gonna get this all lined up, and then you can start one of the bolts from the backside. You can put a little thread locking compound on these bolts. There we go.

Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 96 foot-pounds. And put the axle nut on. I'm just gonna take a pry bar. I lowered the vehicle down, and this is gonna prevent the hub from spinning while I torque this. I'm gonna torque this nut to 151 foot-pounds. I'm gonna put these shoes back. I gonna take this pin. Put that pin back first. Take the spring, and just slide this in position. You have to push it on, and then twist it. That's why it really helps to have this tool. There you go. You just twist it, so that... The cover is slotted. And then once you go over the pin, then you turn it, and that should lock in place. Do the same on the other one. There we go. That one's on.

Before I put any of the springs on, I'm just gonna put the adjuster back in position. You might have to make some minor adjustments with it if you moved it at all. Now I'll take the bottom spring. Just try to line this up. And get one side started. Take my locking pliers, and just get the other side in. There we go. Just make sure that's all the way in. There we go. Now it's in. And it's in on that side. That's good. And put the top spring in. Start it on one side. But, here we go underneath here.

The adjuster's in the way. There we go. Just like that. And again, use the locking needle nose pliers. Slide that in position. This one's a little easier than the lower one. Just make sure you lock it in. Looks good there, and there. Perfect. Now we can take the wheel speed sensor and reposition that into the knuckle, and take the bolt, get the bolt started, and snug that up. That's good. Now, if you had any rust on the backside of the rotor, you're gonna wanna clean that up, either with a wire brush or a scuff pad. And line this up. You might have to adjust your parking brake shoes. Those are pretty good. You just want them dragging just a little bit. That feels seem good. And take that screw. Screw that screw back in. Just snug it up. I'm gonna take the caliper off the hanger, and just make sure the hose isn't twisted. Slide the pads over the rotor. There we go. And take the bolts. You can put a little thread lock adhesive on them.

Get those back in position. Now we can put the caliper bolts back in. You can put some thread locking compound on the bolts. And torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. There we go. And throw the wheel up. The lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds, in a cross pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And because we had the caliper off, it's always a good idea before you start the vehicle, just pump the brake pedal. That way, if there's any air gap, that takes away that air gap in between the brake pads and the rotor. That's good.

I'm going to remove the wheel, use a 22-millimeter socket. I'm going to pull the wheel off. I'm going to take this nut off, use a 24-millimeter socket. You're going to take these two bolts out and there's two nuts on top. Use an 18-millimeter wrench to hold the nuts and then an 18-millimeter socket for the bottom. Take those out. To get these trim clips off, choose the trim clip tool. Now, you can use a pry bar, just pry on the control arm a little bit, try to slide this out. And take a hammer and just give it a tap and pry it off. Just like that. Take the new bushing. There is a ring right here, this steel ring that goes towards the back of the vehicle. This happens to have a blue collar right here. The white one, this goes towards the front of the vehicle, and just slide this in position. There you go.

Now, it's lined up. I'll just give it a tap on them. Make sure you use a rubber hammer or a dead blow. Get that to line up. That's good. I'll get that nut started and take these bolts. Get these bolts started and then put the nuts on top. Now, I'll snug these up first, and then use a torque wrench and torque these to 55-foot pounds. Then, I'm going to use a screw jack and raise up the lower control arm. You want this as close to ride height as possible. Ideally, you would want to put the tire on, lower the vehicle down to ride height, and then torque this, but it's not easy to get a torque wrench underneath the vehicle. So do the best you can. And then, torque this nut to 140-foot pounds. And then lower the control arm down. I'm gonna put the tire on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140-foot pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.

Now, go around again just to double-check.

Now, you can take the lug nuts off. Use the 22-millimeter socket, so you can get the wheel off. Grab the wheel, slide it off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. Just take a 15/16 wrench and loosen it up. That's good. I'm just gonna take a little rust penetrant, just spray down the tie rod stud. That'll make it a little easier to take that nut off. I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and just pry below the strut, and prying down on the tie rod to help the stud from spinning. And then use a 21-millimeter socket, take that nut off. Now, just take a hammer and hit on the bottom of the stud, going up. When you take this off, you're gonna want to count the threads, so, 1, 2, 3...17, 17, and just write that number down somewhere.

That's gonna make it easier for when you put it back together to get it close so that when you go to have the alignment done, it's actually a little bit closer than if you didn't count the threads. Now, take the outer tie rod end and count the threads when you go on. 1, 2...17. And I'll just move the jam nut a little closer and take the stud and line it up with the nut hole.

Take the nut, put the nut on. Now I'll take a pry bar, go under the strut, slide this down. And then I'm gonna torque this nut to 22 foot-pounds. And if you have angle meter, you're gonna want to torque this an additional 120 degrees. If you don't, just do the best you can. That's 90, then I'll go another 30 degrees. I'm just estimating; that's about right. And we can tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, you can torque it to 55 foot-pounds. Now, put the wheel back on.

Now I'm gonna tighten the lug nuts down, torque them to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Go around again. Double check.

Now, you can take the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, so you can get the wheel off. Grab the wheel, slide it off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. Just take a 15/16 wrench and loosen it up. That's good. I'm just gonna take a little rust penetrant, just spray down the tie rod stud. That'll make it a little easier to take that nut off. I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and just pry below the strut, and prying down on the tie rod to help the stud from spinning. And then use a 21-millimeter socket to take that nut off. Now, just take a hammer and hit on the bottom of the stud going up. We take this off, you're gonna want to count the threads, so, 1, 2, 3, 17, 17, and just write that number down somewhere. That's gonna make it easier for when you put it back together to get it close. So that when you go to have the alignment done, it's actually a little bit closer than if you didn't count the threads. We're gonna take some locking pliers, and just lock them onto the inner tie rod, and take a 24-millimeter socket, and take this nut off. Now, you can take this clamp off. The boot, use some hose clamp pliers or just some regular pliers, and just slide that off.

On the backside of this boot there is a clamp. If you just take a long pick and find where the clamp is put together or where it's pinched together, you can loosen up that pinched part, just spread it apart a little bit, and you might be able to slide the boot off. And most of the time you have to replace these clamps. But sometimes if you don't damage them too bad, you can reuse them. And there we go, that's slid off. If you're doing the right side, you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, that's gonna push this out really far. If you're doing the other side, just do the opposite, and try to get some locking pliers as close to the tie rod as possible. That's good. This is just gonna prevent the shaft from spinning and damaging any internal components in the steering rack itself. Then take a tie rod remover tool, get the correct adapter that fits. Slide this in position. All right, and loosen up the tie rod. Hold the locking pliers, there we go. Take your tool out. I'm just doing this by hand. There you go. Take the new tie rod in, inner tie rod in, and just apply a little bit of thread lock adhesive. And you can clean these threads out on the rack, use a little brake parts cleaner and a rag, just wipe that out, and thread this in. Now, you can put the adapter on and torque this to 74 foot-pounds. Now I'm gonna put the boot on. Now, my clamp is still reusable, so leave that on. If not, you could always use a wire tie if you have to. Now to tighten that clamp, I have these special pliers to tighten that. So just be creative on how to get this around here. You may have to take a heat shield off if you wanna get it from underneath, or you can try to get it in from up here. And if you don't have those pliers and can't access that, sometimes just carefully using some side cutters. You don't want to cut it, but you can pinch it just enough to lock it on there. Just make sure it doesn't twist, and that's good. Take that outer hose clamp or boot clamp, use some hose clamp pliers, and slide it back on. That's good. And put the jam nut back on. Now take the outer tie rod in, and count the threads when you go on, 1, 2, 17. And I'll just move the jam nut little closer, and take the stud, and line it up with the knuckle. Take the nut, the nut on. Now, take a pry bar, go under the strut, slide this down. And then I'm gonna torque this nut to 22 foot-pounds. And if you have an angled meter, you're gonna want to torque this an additional 120 degrees. If you don't, just do the best you can. That's 90, then I'll go another 30 degrees. I'm just estimating. That's about right, and we can tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, you can torque it to 55 foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on. I'm gonna tighten the lug nuts down, torque them to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Go around again just to double check.