Replaces
WPA07301
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Buy in the next and
Part Details
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi I'm Mike Green; I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the plastic coolant elbows. This is a 2002 Impala, 3.8 liter motor. This is the engine, the 3800 series engine that is in a whole bunch of different GM vehicles and when these things start to crack they just slowly drip coolant onto the engine and it evaporates so you have a leak and you loose coolant but it doesn't ever appear that you're leaking anywhere. Tools you'll need are 8, 10, 13, and 15 mm sockets with a ratchet and extension. You'll need a bent tip awl or a pick and that's to just kind of pull the broken pieces of the elbow out of either the intake manifold or the serpentine belt tensioner and then some extra coolant and a funnel and as well as a catch pan.
The one place you want to check for leaking fluid is this tube right here. It's a little elbow that comes from the intake manifold and goes into the belt tensioner. Disconnect your negative battery cables. Start out by removing the two 13 mm bolts that hold the strut brace on the passenger's side. Now there are two 10 mm nuts that hold the top of your coolant tank and then once you have those out you lift the tank up and you can actually just leave it connected and just lay it on the front of the engine. Just make sure you don't spill any coolant out of it.
Remove the 15 mm nut on top of the alternator. Untwist the oil fill tube, take this off and then loosen a 10 mm bolt right back here just on the other end of the brace. Then down here there are two bolts. You can see one 15 mm bolt right there and then there's one down lower as well. I'm sure I can really get the camera on it. From this angle here you can just see the head right here. Then there's also a bolt right down in here which I can't really film but it's just kind of down below and behind the alternator. Use a 15 mm socket with a ratchet and extension, this little one first.
Just going to fast forward here as we remove the three bolts that hold that tensioner in place. You can see that the whole when we remove ok you've got two connections, you've got that one up here you can see and then there's one down into the block right there. You need to kind of lift this up and out. See then there's our problem. You reach in and pull out the O ring that's in the manifold and this one is kind of broken here that in our tensioner I believe. The top elbow is broken both on the manifold side and the belt tensioner side so carefully you want to use the bent tipped awl and remove all the pieces of the elbow from both of the manifold and the tensioner. Luckily the bottom elbow came right out of both the engine and the tensioner with no problems.
Going to use our new lower elbow and just put a little bit of penetrating oil on it just to make sure that the O ring can go in there without catching. Just put it in, inserting with kind of a twist and it's all right there. Take my elbow and screw it into the intake manifold. I've got penetrating oil on both sides; little twist, goes right in nicely. Make sure both ends and the elbows are coated. Here I have my bolts in the bracket and I've guided it on to the elbows. Basically I'm using that flashlight looking in behind and that way I can see the upper bolt, I can see as it comes through the belt tensioner and look it right into the head and start it with my fingers.
Here I'm just going to fast forward, I'm going to put in my other two bolts and then just kind of snug tighten with the ratchet and socket and then I'll just show you everything as it's put together before we tighten it up. Now I've got that elbow in place, it's a little hard to see but it's the elbow down there in place and I've got my three bolts started. Now I'm just going to use the socket and ratchet to tighten those up and they should be torched up to anywhere between 25 and 30 foot pounds of torch. We're going to follow the serpentine belt diagram so we're going to put a loop down around the crank here and then around the AC pulley. Get it around our power string pump and up and over. The only thing we won't put on at first in the alternator. Take a loop and put it down around the crank pulley, continue it down around the AC pulley; it comes up from the crank pulley, goes around our water pump, around our tensioner and down around our steering pulley. Almost got it preliminarily routed, a little off here on our AC pulley, on the crank pulley directly and now on the power steering pulley correctly; I guess we'll just have to go up onto the alternator. If you don't have a long ratchet, what you can always do, put that 15 mm socket on there, put a nice big pipe right here that gives you a lot of extra leverage. That came off my power steering pulley. Pull that tight.
I do apologize here, you use the pipe and the ratchet to turn the belt tensioner counter clockwise and then put the belt up and around to the alternator. The belt is on my AC compressor correctly, down and around the crank correctly, power steering pump up and around. Just going to kind of speed through here, one of the last steps which is putting that coolant bottle back in place and then using the 13 mm nuts to hold down the brace and the 10 mm nuts to fasten the coolant bottle on. Now you want to fill the radiator directly on this Impala. It originally uses the Red Dex cool but it's already been changed over to the green so I'm just using the regular green antifreeze. You want to fill the radiator directly and then start it up, run it and check the fluid and just fill it the rest of the way through the overfill bottle. For the first few times you drive it just pay attention to it and make sure you keep the right amount of fluid in it.
Reconnect your negative battery cable. You can see engine is running, nothing dripping from there, I do see a little steam, that's just kind of the stuff burning off that spilled on the engine and stuff. No drips underneath, couple little residue in one spot, again from what spilled on the body and whatnot.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the water pump on this 2002 Chevy Impala. This vehicle has the 3.8 liter V6, engine that's used in a lot of different GM vehicles, so the procedure is basically the same.
Tools you'll need are a jack, an 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, and 3/8 inch sockets with a ratchet and extension, a belt or a chain wrench, a hammer, a gasket/razor blade scraper, gasket adhesive, torque wrench, and then replacement coolant and a funnel.
Start out by removing the two 13 mm bolts that hold the strut brace on the passenger side. There are two 10 mm nuts that hold the top of your coolant tank, and then once you have those out, you move the tank up and you can just actually leave it connected and just kind of lay it on the front of the engine. Just make sure you don't spill any coolant out of it.
This is called a belt or a chain wrench. You put it down on the water pump pulley. Then take the belt, pull it tight, turn it. It kind of holds itself. Then 8 mm socket and ratchet. I apologize, I kind of got in the way here. You'd hold the pulley with that belt wrench, then use an 8 mm socket and ratchet and take the four bolts that hold the water pump pulley on there. Then once I'm done that, remove the bolts, and then I'll remove the pulley.
That was a series of bolts. There's two larger ones over here, and then two larger ones here, and then a series of bolts around the perimeter. See this bolt right here is blocked by the power steering pulley. That's pretty easy to remedy. You need to just take the power steering pump off, which, if you reach through, slowly turn the power steering pump pulleys and just reach through and feel. Then you'll, actually you can see the tip of my finger on one of the bolts, so reach right through the pulley and remove the bolts for the power steering pump.
Take the 13 mm socket and extension. I'm going to speed it up here. So I use that extension with the socket on it, put it through the hole in the pulley, get it onto the bolts. There's two bolts that hold that power steering pump in place. Once you have those bolts out, then you can pull that power steering pump. I don't actually take the bolts out of the pump, I just pull the pump forward to expose that water pump bolt.
Now you can see, after you remove those two bolts and the power steering pump's out of the way, easy access to that bolt and the rest of them. Before you take the water pump bolts out, make sure you have a catch pan underneath.
The larger bolt at 13 mm. I'm just going to fast forward here a little bit. As I remove the bolt and each bolt on, one of the bolts on each side that goes into the water jack of the engine so it will drain the fluid from the engine as you pull the bolt out.
You can see as I took that bolt out, now I'm leaking fluid out of the engine, which is fine. I'm going to fast forward through taking out the 13 mm, or the larger bolts on the other side, and again, just like on the first side, one of the bolts leads right to the water jacket, so you'll get some coolant that leaks out of the front of the engine.
Interesting enough, the smaller bolts are 3/8 inch. Again, just use fast forward as I remove, there's four smaller bolts, one is underneath and then three are on top.
With all the bolts out, take a hammer, couple taps, all right, this is your old water pump you can see our old water pump. We need to find, or just make sure we remove all the gasket from the engine. Usually you kind of reach down there with your fingernail and peel slowly and try to take off the largest chunks that you can. This is a razorblade holder, a very sharp blade, helps to get stuff like this off. Just run the razorblade underneath the gasket.
I'm going to fast forward here again. Very important, make sure you remove all the old gasket, then use some paper towels, maybe a little bit of solvent, and just make sure that the surface where you mount the water pump is clean.
Here in this shot I'm just going to jack up the driver's side of the car a little bit. That just helps to get a little more of the coolant out of the engine. Then, obviously, after some of it drips out, then let the car back down. Like I said before, a little paper towel, soak up the fluid, and make sure everything's clean.
With my new pump, I've put a very light amount of gasket sealant on both sides. I'm going to put my upper and lower bolt through. Two of the holes are just lineup holes. Goes in like that. I am being careful not to lean against much of anything. I'm going to get it close, start my top bolt. So I'm all lined up pretty well. Put it on. Start the bottom bolt.
Now I'm going to put all the rest of the bolts in by hand. Then I'm just going to use my 8 mm socket and ratchet, as well as my 13 mm socket and ratchet. I'll just snug the bolts first, because you do want to torque these on, so I'll show you that in a minute. To tighten roughly, you want to use a torque wrench. The larger bolt you torque to 15 pounds. Then you turn about an eighth of a turn. Start on one side, then go to the other side.
I'll speed up here. Then torque the other bolts. Again, that's 15 foot-pounds and then about an eighth of a turn. Tighten them up in a pattern, doing opposite. So when you do an inner on one side, then do the inner on the other side; the outer on one side, then the outer on the other side.
Now for the small ones, it's 11 pounds. You want about a quarter, just a little less than a quarter of a turn. Again, here I'll speed up. That was 11 foot-pounds, and then a little less than a quarter of a turn. You want to do these in a pattern as well. I do the top, then the bottom one, then the left, and then the right one.
Take our 13 mm socket on our extension, reach down, kind of put the power steering pump back up into place. Get our socket on the bolt and lift it and feel it into place. Start turning the bolt, see if you can get it to catch. Looks like I got it. That kind of was the editing version. I did probably play with that for about a minute-and-a-half or two minutes before I got the bolt to start in. Once you get the first bolt in, then you just kind of put the socket and extension on the lower bolt, start that one in, and then grab your ratchet and tighten them up. You want to tighten these up firm. You are going into aluminum so do not over tighten them. Probably calls for about 25-30 foot-pounds.
We're going to put the pulley back on. There are little dimples punched through the pulley. If you look closely you can see there's threaded holes and then the little dimples right next to them. Put the pulley back, the pulley down on, kind of line it up looking back through it. You know when you got it on because it's nice and, you push on it and it stays nice and steady. Start one of the bolts.
Fast forward once I get one of the bolts started, start another bolt and then get all four started and kind of on there by hand. Now use a belt wrench again. Put it around the pulley in the opposite way, then grab the 8 mm socket with a ratchet and tighten these bolts up firm. They probably should be anywhere from 11-12 foot-pounds.
We're going to follow serpentine belt diagram. We're going to put a loop down around the crank here, then around the AC pulley, get it around our power steering pump and up and over. The only thing we won't put it on at first is the alternator. We're going to take a loop, put it down around the crank pulley, continue it down around the AC pulley, comes up from the crank pulley, it goes around our water pump, around our tensioner, and down and around the power steering pulley. Pretty much got it preliminary routed. It's a little off here. On our AC pulley. Seems we have it on our crank pulley correctly and the power steering pulley correctly. So it just has to go up on to the alternator. If you don't have a long ratchet, put the 15 mm socket on there, put a nice big pipe here. That gives you a lot of extra leverage. Pull with that pipe. I do apologize here. You use the pipe and ratchet to turn the serpentine belt tension counterclockwise and put the belt up and on to the alternator. Make sure the belt is on my AC compressor correctly. It's down and around the crank correctly. Power steering pump, up and around.
Just going to speed through here. One of the last steps is putting that coolant bottle back in place and then using the 13 mm nuts to hold down the brace and use the 10 mm nuts to fasten the coolant bottle on. Now you want to fill the radiator directly. On this Impala it originally use the red dex-cool but its already been changed over to the green so I'm just using the regular green antifreeze. Fill the radiator directly and then start it up and run it. And check the fluid then fill it up the rest of the way through the overflow bottle. For the first few times you drive it just pay attention to it and make sure you keep the right amount of fluid in it.
You can see the engines running. Nothing dripping from there. You might see a little steam. That's just kind of the stuff burning off that spilled on the engine. No drips underneath. A couple residue ones from again what spilled on the body and whatnot.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We are the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
WPA07301
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET
Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
Before proceeding,
select your Vehicle, to verify this Part will fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Water Pump & Related
This part will only fit a vehicle with these options.