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Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today, we have an '07 Honda Accord in the shop, and we're going to be showing you how to do a front-brake service. If you need those parts or any other parts of your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. 19-millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts. Now, I am going to raise and support my vehicle with my two-post lift, and you can use jack stands with a jack. Now, we're clear to remove the tire.
First thing to do is remove the boot for the caliper bleeder, and we're going to break that open and make sure it moves. 10-millimeter wrench. Nice and smooth. I'm just going to lightly snug it, so that I can break it free once it's hanging. 12-millimeter socket. We can break free the caliper mounting/slider bolts. It's two. One on the top, one in the bottom. So now we're going to look at the caliper slider bolts.
They both look good shape. Nothing's wrong with them. I can take a pry bar now and just pry my caliper off in the caliper bracket. While that's out, I can look at it, make sure the dust boot's not torn. There's no fluid leak. I'm going to take my tool that pushes the caliper piston back, snug it up before I start to push that piston back. I can open that bleeder screw again.
Aim it at the bucket I have down below to catch the brake fluid. At this time, I'm going to feel out the caliper piston. It's going back really smooth. No glitches. It's not frozen. No fluid's coming out of the dust boot. So, we have a good seal. Once that's snug, I can re-tighten my bleeder screw. 17-millimeter socket, and now we're going to break free the caliper bracket to knuckle bolts.
It's just two of them. One top, one bottom. Now we have the bracket with pads in it. There's the front rotor. So, now all's we have to do is take the pads out of the bracket, and that's basically if they're frozen, and then you can take a hammer, or I just squeeze them sometimes as the outer pad and the inner. I'm noting where the indicator is on the inner pad.
Here, we have our front rotor for our '07 Honda Accord from 1A Auto, and here we have our set of pads. They come pre-shimmed. They have the beveled edges to allow the brake dust to disperse evenly. Both inner and outer pad have that marking, and they both come with the shims. The rotors are a nice crosscut. They have the manufacturer's amount of vintage specs, and it has the actual specs stamped on it.
Here, we have a rotor that we took off. It's probably not original equipment, so if you need these parts or any of the parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. Now, I'm going to clean the surface of the hub. Use a little brake clean. You can see all that dirt and grease come right off, and just use a nice wire brush. We don't want any raised grease. I mean, raised rust lines.
I just want to point something out here. So if someone has done a brake job on this car probably in the past eight months or so, then you can see the groove lines. They took what we call a grinder wheel or a whizzer cookie, and they just went to town on this hub. There's a couple of problems with that. That is shaving the metal off. You can see the actual marks. The car is probably... It's an '07, so it's 12 years old. It's up there in age.
The customer's never going to feel a pulsation, but you need to keep this down to a minimal of how much metal you take away from a hub on a mounting surface. So, now, we're going to clean up our front caliper bracket. First thing I'm going to do is clean the tins while they're in the bracket. It's easier to hold onto them. Do that to both sides. Now, we can take the tins off.
Let's clean out the surface that they mount to. See that right there? It's layers of rust. That's what I want to avoid, so I can chip away that. That'd be great. What happens there is that rust ends up swelling and pushing that tin up. It makes that pad not slide in and out of the bracket, so we call that... It'll end up with uneven wear and premature wear. That's the whole point of doing what we're doing.
That's much better. I'm going to clean the backside of the brackets here, the tins. These tins are in good shape. You can always order a set of tins with the brake job. So, if you don't want to clean, you want to avoid this part of the job. It will go quicker. Plus you don't know if it's damaged until you take it apart. So, might be best for the few dollars it costs to be prepared and just change them out new every time.
Now, I'm going to take the sliders out, and these are stiff, so I don't know what I'm going to find when I take this out whether it's damaged. I might actually take a pair of pliers to this. I got it. Wow. Okay, so either they put too much grease in there, or they didn't clean it when they redid it. Look at the condition of this. Looks like it's going to be able to be reusable. Let's take the boot off, really examine the boot. Make sure there's no pin holes.
That looks good. I'm going to take the wire brush and clean inside there. I'm going to repeat that process on this side. I'm going to reinstall the boot. Both sides, reinstall. Let's put some silicone paste right in there. This is water resistant, so hopefully, it stops that rust buildup that we saw that we took out. That only goes underneath, nothing on the top part of the tins.
We want a smooth sliding surface. Okay, the rubber bushing always goes on the top caliber bracket. I don't know about always. That seems like it's always that way, especially with Hondas. I got to put some on the boot inside. Much smoother. I couldn't even turn it before. Perfect. Let's do the same on the other side. I've put the rotor on backwards so that I can clean the surface before I install it.
I'm just getting the package oil off, the anti-rusts they put on for it when it sits on the shelf. I got to spray a little anti-seize lubricant on the hub. Now, I can mount my rotor. This did not have any of the mounting screws. They must have fallen off in previous... or maybe broke off in previous installations. I'm going to use a lug nut to hold that rotor flush to the hub. Now, you clean this surface of the verdict.
Now, we're ready to install our caliper bracket. We have a upper bolt key. Slide it. Then the lower bolt. We're just going to snug these. Then I'm going to torque them to the manufacturer's specs. 80-foot pounds is the specs for these caliper to knuckle bracket bolts. Now, we can put our pads in the caliper bracket. Put the inner one in first, and that's the one with the indicator, and it's on the top and the outer pad.
Let's grab the caliper, ready to mount that. You'll see a flat spot on the sliders. Those line up with the angle of the caliper. I'm going to torque down the caliper slider bolt, and it's 26-foot pounds. Last thing I'm going to do is reopen the bleeder screw, and let it gravity bleed till I see a steady stream of fluid. Looks good. No air bubbles. Well, we can snug that up. Let's clean it and re-install our caliper with the screw cover.
Now, we're ready to put our wheel back on. I'm just going to snug them up by hand. Then I'll lower it down on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on it, and I'll torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds. 19-millimeter socket, and we're going to torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds in a star pattern. Double check. Now, we're going to repeat the process on the other side.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today we have an '07 Honda Accord in the shop and we're going to be doing rear brakes. If you need that part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1A Auto.com. Remove the protective boot on the bleeder screw. Set this aside, we're going to reuse that. And I'm going to break the bleeder screw free. Make sure it breaks free. And I'm just going to snug it because I'm going to loosen that up when it's hanging off. 12 millimeter wrench, we're going to disconnect the caliper to bracket, put them on that slider bolt.
Those look in good shape, making sure they're not cross threaded, there's no metal long. Now I'm going to take a small pry bar and just pry this caliper off. Do a quick visual, make sure I see no tears on the boots, the dust boot for the piston. There's no sign of any leakage. Check out the hardware, the anti-rattle clip is still one piece. It's got some good spring left to it. I'm going to move over to the slider bracket, feel my sliders. I'm going to be cleaning them up, but it's nice to see if they're frozen, which they're not, so I can just easily clean those up. Then I'm going to take a 14 millimeter now and break the bracket off the knuckle.
Get the top pulled out the rest of the way. Slide the bracket right out. Now with a pneumatic screwdriver, I'm going to put my Phillips head tip right into these mounting little ... they're just a little like flathead bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. I've never seen one do this. Almost feels like someone put thread lock on the threads. Wow, those are pretty rusted in there, that's all. I'm going clean those up. I might not re-install that second one because the next person's going to be really in trouble if I put that back in. They came out. That's good news.
So on these mounting screws, it's just basically to hold the rotor mounted flat to the hub so you can work and make sure it's seated properly so you don't have a misaligned hub. If this rounds off and you can't get it out, it is a flat surface. So what a lot of people will do is take a large drill bit and you drill that till the head of it comes off and then you can take your rotor off. Take a pair of locking pliers and work the thread out. If not, grind it down flat. It does not have to be re-installed, but you must pay attention that when you put the rotor on to make sure that you line up those bolt holes and that it is sitting flush. So if you need to put a couple of lug nuts on, you can do that while you assemble the brakes.
Now we're going to push back our caliper piston. First thing I'm going to do is open the bleeder screw with my 10 millimeter wrench. I'm just going to leave it on there. You don't want to ever push the fluid back. It can go in ... The dirty fluid will hit the ABS actuator and cause a lot of problems. So I'm going to be using this tool right here that has the four way kicked on it because the calipers back here are spring loaded. They're not just a straight piston, has to be twisted in. It's the design of it. I have a catch pan catching my brake fluid.
Nice and smooth so I know that this caliper is in good shape. There's no slow drag, there's no stickiness to this piston and no leaks coming out. I'm going to end this with the star pattern going like north, south, east, west, or 12:00, 6:00, 3:00, 9:00 because the brake pads have notches on them. So you want to end up with these in that design, just like that. Now I can close that bleeder screw and get ready to clean up. First thing I'm going to do is clean my hub surface. I'm going to spray it with some parts cleaner, brake clean to loosen up some of that rust and then I can take my brass brush to it.
The most important part is closest to the hub, that's where the rust will form. Then just re-clean it. I'm going to take a little bit of copper anti-seize and I'm going to put it right around that hub, and that stops any rust buildup, water, seepage, and just light brush around the rest of the hub. Now we're going to take our pads out of our bracket and I'm going to note where the inner pad was, where the silencer, or shall I say where the brake pad indicator was. So that's the inner for the driver's side and the outer is the same on both sides, but you want the clip where the factory set the clip, it's on the top of the bottom. It actually has to do with the rotation of the wheel and where they feel the closest point and the first point is that hits.
Here we have our brand new brakes from 1A Auto, the rear rotors and pads for our '07 Honda Accord. And you could see a nice cross cut. It is stamped with the manufacturer's specs. And the one that we took off is just old and worn out. I would say it's not original due to the mileage. The pads, quality pads, they have a nice beveled edge on them that stops the brake dust from building up and squeaking, inhibitor and a nice slot in the center there that keeps the cooling. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com
So now I'm going to line up my new rotor with the mounting bolt holes, which are right there and on the other side, nice and flush. I'm only going to be using one of them because the other one's all kind of rounded off. And you need the pneumatic impact screwdriver to install it also, just to make sure that it's seated properly. You hear the sound difference. Perfect. Now we're going to clean up our bracket, get it ready to install the pads So the hardware, I'm not going to replace it. It looks in good enough shape. It looks like I can just get away with cleaning it, so I'm going to end up taking it off, but before I do that, it's easy for me to hold it in the bracket and take my wire brush and clean the flat surface part of it and you'll see the difference in when I'm cleaning off.
You want it as shiny as possible and smooth. You don't want any caliper grease on it, no silicone paste on this surface. You want it on the other surface. I'm going to do both surfaces top and bottom the same way. Now I can remove it from the actual caliper bracket and just put a small screwdriver in there, pry it apart. See the mounting surface, the rust on it, where it meets the actual bracket. We're going to clean that up. Now we're going to clean the actual caliper bracket. I'm just using the rotor box because it's here and it's a good way to keep everything in one spot so then when I use my cleaner and spray cleaning them up, spraying in on the ground.
That's what we're looking for, a nice smooth surface.You don't want any rust peaks that are risen, and you can use a flathead screwdriver. The smoother the surface, the longer your pads are going to last in the better braking. We'll let that dry and then I'll show you how I'm going to clean the mounting surface part of the tin. If you didn't buy new tins, this is must do.
That's before and after. Now we're going to clean the slider pin. You just pinch the boot. See it has a lip on it and the slider has this groove on it. That's where the boot sits inside there. So it's a matter of just pinching the boot down and just twisting the pin out. And that's got the old grease in there, or a paste. It's all kind of dirty. We're going to clean that up. Examine the boot ... I mean the boot and the pin. Some of these pins will get a groove marked in them. And that's obviously something you don't want. It goes down the road, heaven forbid it should break some day. Don't say, "Oh, it was just a small little groove in that metal." It's not worth it.
So the pins good and we can look at the boot. Just pull the boot, stretch it. There's no pin holes. You do not want water getting in there. Water gets in there, this will seize up and it could seize up, extended out or all the way in. And then that brake pad is going to go right down to nothing, or it's not going to apply because the pin is stuck out here because it seized up. Take my little pocket screwdriver. I'm just going to dig in there, see if I can get some of that old grease out. You can use a caliber honing brush. Let me get one for you.
So I'm going to show you how to clean out the inside of these caliper boring, where the slide. So we're going to take the boot out. Just pinch it out. It comes right out. Now you can get these at your hardware store, make sure you get the right diameter one. That is getting all the old grease out. If there was rust in there due to water damage, that'll take that rust out for a smooth sliding surface. You can let that air dry. So now we're going to reassemble, pretty simple. I'm just going to take any grease off the outside here of this boot because I want it to make sure it sits and locks in there. So you have a lip on this rubber boot that's going to sit right inside that lip. Just guide it around.
You might have to use a pocket screwdriver. Nope, I got it. Perfect. Now with our ... You can use caliper grease or I have a silicone paste here that is water resistant and high temp. Sometimes I like to use the clear paste. I'm just going to really put that on the inside of the boot. I want it to sit in all those ridges. Now we're going to take the slider pins, give them a slight, light coat. I'm going to put a dab heavier on the bottom. When I assemble that, I like to spin and twist in, seat it all the way down. If there's air in it, see how it ... Just squeeze it and let the silicone paste come out and the air come out.
Do the same to the other side. Our last step is I take some of that paste and I put it on the actual surface where those caliper tins are going to sit, and this'll keep the water out and hopefully stop it from rusting and building up a rust lip, which would push the tins up. So you've got the locking ear tabs that go right in the center. Snap it down in. Just like that. Do not put any silicone paste on the flat surface in which the pad is going to ride on. It'll only collect road dirt and brake dust and drag the pads. That kind of defeats the whole point.
Now let's mount our caliper bracket to the knuckle. Start the caliper bolts by hand. We're going to torque that to manufacturer's specs. Manufacturer's specs is 41 foot pounds. Double check it. Now we're going to install our pads on the bracket. And this is the inner pad and there is that pin notch that I was talking about that's going to sit right in that caliper slot. Just slide them right in. See how smooth those slide? Now they're not going to make any noise, but they slide. So perfect wearing type of brake pad. Now we can easily slide our caliper over.
I'm going to put the top bolt in first so that I can, once that's threaded and secure, I can push down on the spring and mount the bottom one. See how it wants to push out? And that's because of the E-brake cable. I'm going to snug this with my 12 millimeter wrench and then I'll torque it to manufacturer's specs. The torque specs for the caliper bolt to bracket is 18 foot pounds.
Now that our brakes are assembled we're ready to gravity bleed because we've had the bleeder screw open, so I just want to pop that open, catching bucket underneath, and I want that to gravity bleed and make sure there's no air in that. We're going to close up the screw. I've got a steady stream with no air bubbles. Make sure I just snug that down and clean that surface with the brake clean. Don't forget to reinstall your boot cover on that bleeder screw. Let's put the rear tire back on. 19 millimeter socket. The wheel torque on this particular model is 80 foot pounds. Make sure you do it in the star pattern crisscross, and then double check.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
BKA11290
