Kit Includes: (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Strut & Spring Assemblies
Specification
Location
Front & Rear
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Loaded Struts: Pre-assembled application specific design
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Matched Pair: Improved comfort and extended service life
Restored Performance: Reduced body sway and vibration
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Strut Assembly 2007-11 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2007-2011 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2007-2011 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Struts 2006-11 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Strut Spring Assemblies 2007-2011 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2007-2011 Toyota Camry
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Brake Parts Cleaner
22mm Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Remove the 12mm bolt from the ABS brake line
Pry off the plastic clip from the strut
Move the caliper and ABS line out of the way
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
Move the sway bar out of the strut
3. Removing the Front Strut
Remove the two lower 22mm strut nuts
Remove the bottom bolt and leave the top bolt in
Loosen the three outer 14mm nuts from the top of the strut evenly
Remove the nuts
Lift the strut up and remove the bottom bolt
Remove the strut
4. Installing the Front Strut
Insert the strut into the strut tower
Hand-tighten the top 14mm bolts
Lift the knuckle into the strut
Insert the two bottom 22mm bolts
Hand-tighten the bottom nuts
Tighten the 15mm nuts on the top of the strut evenly
Torque the upper nuts to 63 foot-pounds evenly
Tighten the bottom bolts
Torque both bolts to 155 foot-pounds while counter-holding
5. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Slide the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
Tighten the 12mm bolt to the ABS line
Clip in the lines to the knuckle
6. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
After removing your wheel and raising and supporting the vehicle, we're going to remove the bolt that is holding on the brake line and the ABS wire from the strut. Bolt goes all the way through. It's a threaded nut, so I'm just going to spray some rust penetrant on the back side. A little bit up here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt. Push the brake caliper line down, and then this ABS line just pulls out of the bracket and can go aside. It's also clipped with a piece of plastic to the strut. You just pull these two tabs apart it pops out of the holes, so that will be loose from the strut now. Just push those aside.
Next thing to remove would be the upper sway bar link. We've already replaced this one. We had to cut ours off. Most likely you will have to cut yours off too before you do the strut. You can get new sway bar links from 1AAuto.com. On the one that we have, the replacement it is an 18-millimeter nut and then an 18 millimeter. There's a socket. Sort of like a six point on the back, so you can counter-hold it to remove it. Our originals did not have that. It made it very difficult to remove them, and we had to cut them off. If these get bound up a little bit you can take a small hammer and just tap them out.
Next, I'm going to remove the two lower strut bolts that are mounting it to the knuckle. Start with some rust penetrant on here. A little bit between there. These are 22 millimeter. They're very, very big, so I'm going to counter-hold on the end of the bolt and I'm going to loosen at the nut. I'm going to use a 12-point 22 millimeter so I can get a better angle. I'm just going to push it down to free that one up. Work on the bottom one. Worst case, I can go under here. Once they're initially broken free, you can switch to a socket and a ratchet and finish removing them.
With the nuts removed, I'm going to take a small ball-peen hammer, and I'm going to tap out the lower bolts. If you need to, you can push on the knuckle a little bit to free it up. I'm going to leave the top one in for now because I want to loosen the three nuts that are holding the strut to the strut tower, and if this bolt is out and I loosen them the strut could fall, so it's just going to help me keep the strut where I need it to be right now.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the top of these studs and nuts that are holding the strut in. Do not need to loosen the center nut. That is what's holding the strut together and the spring under compression, so don't touch this nut. Just these three outer ones. These are 14 millimeter. I'm just going to start by loosening them all evenly. It did drop down, but since I had it bolted to this knuckle, it didn't fall out on me. You can actually lift up on it. Pull this bolt out. Wiggle it. It's going to come off the knuckle. Pull it right out.
Here's our old strut assembly and a brand new assembled strut from 1AAuto.com. That means you don't have swap over the spring, and you don't have to swap over the mount. It's all ready to go and bolt right into the car. These right and left specific, so just like the OEM one it's got a little R here. On our new one from 1A Auto, it's got an R there, so that's going go on the passenger's side front.
Right-hand side of the car. It has the same mounting holes for the strut, same mount setup for the sway bar link, and of course, where I was pointing out the R, it's the same mount for the brake line and ABS line. At the top, we have the same style strut top. There's actually a warning sticker here. It's telling you not to undo this nut, so we can peel that off before we install it. This one came with three new locking nuts. I'm going to take them off before I install it, but this should fit in your car and work great for you.
We're going to take our new strut and put it up into the strut tower and line up the holes. I'm just going to capture some of these nuts. We can let it hang like that, that's fine. I'm going to one of our bolts and make it lined up into the knuckle. You might have to actually lift it up. If you need to you can put a jack under here. I'm going to get the other bolt in. I'm just going to thread in on these nuts for now. Now I'm going to go to the top of the strut and I can start tightening down. These new lock nuts are 15 millimeter. I'm going to start tightening them down just evenly bringing the strut up. The torque on these is 63-foot-pounds. I'm just going to go evenly. Just going to take our socket and snug these down before I torque them to the final spec. I'm going to torque these to 155-foot-pounds. Make sure you counter-hold the bolt. Do the same for both bolts. I'm going to reinstall the sway bar link. Counter-hold the sway bar link. Tighten it, so with the upper sway bar link to 55-foot-pounds.
Reinstall the ABS wire bracket because tabs where it slides into the hole. That's where it fits over. This is a little tight. I'm just going to tap it into place. Put the brake fluid line back up here. The bolt line up. Clip the ABS retainer right back onto here.
Reinstall your wheel. Lower your vehicle to the ground and torque it. The strut is replaced. Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76-foot-pounds. I'm going at a cross pattern. Reinstall the hubcap. You've got to line up the opening to the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
12mm Socket
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Punch
Large Hammer
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Chisel
30mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Tools used
12mm Socket
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Punch
Large Hammer
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Chisel
30mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Center Punch
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
12mm Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Rear Seat
Pop the rear seat cushion of the two hooks with a pry bar
Pull the seat cushion out of the car
Open the trunk
Pull the seat release lever inside the trunk
Fold down the seat backs
Pop the seat belts out of the side bolsters
Remove the 12mm bolts from the bottom of the bolsters
Pull the bolsters up and off
3. Removing the Rear Struts
Remove the upper 14mm bolt from the sway bar link with a 14mm wrench and counterhold with a 5mm allen bit and ratchet
Remove the sway bar link from the strut
Remove the 12mm bolt from the brake line bracket
Remove the 10mm bolt from the ABS line bracket
Loosen the 19mm bolts from the bottom of the strut
Tap out the upper bolt with a hammer
Remove the three 12mm bolts from atop the strut
Remove the lower bolt from the bottom of the strut
Lower the strut down and out
4. Installing the Rear Struts
Insert the strut up into place
Insert the top bolt into the strut
Tap the bolt in with a hammer and punch if needed
Hand-tighten the nut
Repeat for the bottom bolt
Press the strut up and hand-tighten the upper bolts
Tighten the three 12mm bolts atop the strut
Torque the top bolts to 29 foot-pounds
Torque the top and bottom strut mounting bolts to 133 foot-pounds
Tighten the 10mm bolt to the ABS line bracket
Tighten the 12mm bolt to the brake line bracket
Insert the sway bar link into the strut
Tighten the upper 14mm bolt to the sway bar link with a 14mm wrench and counterhold with a 5mm allen bit and ratchet
5. Installing the Rear Seat
Put the side bolsters into place, using the locating tabs
Insert the 12mm bolts into the bottom of the bolsters
Pop the seatbelts into the bolsters
Fold up the seat backs
Put the seat cushion into the car
Buckle the seat belts to hold the seat belt buckles in place
Push the seat cushion into place
Clip on the seat cushion hooks
Unbuckle the seat belts
Position the seat belt buckles
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts onto the studs with the tapered side facing the wheel
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a pry bar or a large flat bladed screwdriver to remove the hubcap. I'm just going to slide it under the edge. Put that aside. Take a breaker bar and the 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground. I'm just going to use the socket to take them off. Removing the last lug nut, I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so it doesn't fall off. I'll take it right off.
There are two hooks holding down the rear seat cushion. They're hard to see. There's one right down here where my index finger is. Try to pull up on it. It's pretty stiff. Let's take this pry bar and very carefully place it right next to the hook and the pop it up. Then you repeat this for the other side. Then you lift the back seat cushion out and just place it aside.
On this Camry with the split fold rear seats we'll need to lower the passenger side seat, so we're going to pull the release that's inside the trunk. We have to fold the seat down.
Before we can remove the side bolster we need to pop the seatbelt out of it. It's got a little slot in here. Feed the seatbelt up through there and to the side. Down under here there's a 12 millimeter bolt that needs to be removed. Then this can be lifted outwards and up off the pin that it sits on. Lift it out a little bit. At the same time I'm going to slide it up so this sits in your middle tab here. You don't want to pull it this way because you'll break this. It's just going to gently come up, and then slide it out.
This side bolster out, you can see the three studs on the top of the strut. Now that we have access to that, we can go on the outside of the car and start removing the strut. You're replacing the strut. You should have the sway bar link on hand because it's very easy to damage when you're taking it off, especially when they're rusty. You can get brand new sway bar links from 1aauto.com. You need to remove the sway bar link from the strut.
In a perfect world, this wouldn't be too rusty and it should come off easy, but this looks pretty rusty. You're going to spray some rust penetrant on here. Take a wire brush. Try to knock off some of the rust. This will ideally help the nut turn. 14 millimeter box wrench and our five millimeter Allen key. Fit it in there. Try to kind of hold these as I remove it. Can see some rusty bits coming loose. Let's spray some more rust penetrant. Try to brush it off, just to help and to help this nut spin off of this ball joint part of the sway bar link.
These are typically locking nuts, so the opening in them is kind of an oval shape. Makes it difficult to spin it off. I almost had it. It stripped. This is typically what will happen. It will kind of start to move on you and then it just strips out the Allen key because they're so difficult to remove. The next step you get some locking pliers, put it back here, hold the little part that's exposed to keep it from spinning and keep taking the nut off. Get it loose. I can take it off with my fingers. Just pull this out. Place that aside.
There are two bolts here on the strut. One is holding the brake line on—it's a 12 millimeter. One is holding the ABS line on. This is a 10 millimeter. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant to the backside of these bolts. I'm going to start by removing the brake line. Spray a little bit in here. Use a 12 millimeter socket. Put that aside.
Switch to a 10 millimeter socket for this bolt. Put this aside over here. The strut is mounted to the knuckle. These two large bolts in here: one down here, one up here, our 19 millimeter nuts and 19 millimeter bolt heads. I'm going to spray rust penetrant on them before I try to remove them. Use a 19 millimeter socket and a large ratchet or a breaker bar. If you have a large ratchet, might give you a little more space to work with. I can kind of hold it with this 19 millimeter wrench.
Going to remove this nut. Repeat this for the lower one. It may be easier to go from underneath. Now I've broken it free. I'm going to switch to an extension and a smaller ratchet so I can move it more freely. Still need to kind of hold the bolt with the box wrench. Got pretty loose. I'm just going to remove it with my hand. Just a small hammer to tap it out. Get this top one started. Need too you should be able to pick up on this a little bit. Push in the knuckle, wiggle it around, and pull the bolts out. Leave this upper strut bolt in place.
Now I'm going to go up inside the car and remove the bolts that are holding on the studs. Once this is loose up top, I can remove this lower bolt, and the whole strut assembly should slide out from the wheel well. Back inside the car, there are three nuts on top of these studs that need to be removed so we can lower the strut out of the body. One's over here, there's one here, and then one in the back. It's hard to see. It's behind this one. These are 12 millimeter. I'm going to use the deep socket, loosen them up. The strut might actually start to lower as you loosen this nut off. It actually just slid loose and came down. All right, the strut is loose from the top of the car in the body. I left this bolt in here so the strut wouldn't fall out when I ended the bolts. I'm going to pick up on the strut, ready this out, to get the strut loose. There, the bolt finally came out. The strut is off of the knuckle. Pick it up. Pull it right out of it wheel well.
Here's our original strut assembly. Here's our brand new one from 1aauto.com. It's a complete assembly. No need to decompress the spring.
Install a new spring, or a mount or a bump stop or boot. It's already assembled and ready to go. This matches up to our original one perfectly. It’s got the same type of mount for the strut, the same mounts for the brake line and the ABS line, same mount for the sway bar link, and the same three studs on the top. There's a warning label here. Don't remove this center nut because you'll undo the tension on the spring. You don't need to touch that. You can just take off these nuts to install it, and this should get you back on the road and riding nice.
Install the strut into the wheel opening, and push up on the knuckle. Put the top bolt in. I'm going to actually take this and just tap it in a bit. Capture our nut so it doesn't come out. Now remove the punch. Capture the lower bolt. I need to use the punch to line it up. Just put it in like about halfway and wiggle the strut around. Just got to take the punch again, put it ahead of the bolt and tap it in, and capture that nut. Now it's time to go back up inside the car, push this strut into place and capture the nuts up top.
I'm going to reuse the original nuts because they're in good shape, but we need to get the studs on the strut up through the holes that are in the body here. I have to reach out underneath to get them up through the holes. I'm going to my capture at least one of them. Now I can snug these up evenly to pull them up into the body. Once they get snug, I'll stop. I'll come back and torque them afterwards. I torque these top bolts to 29 foot-pounds. I torque the top and bottom strut mounting bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Just taking up some of the slack by threading this down before I torque it. Same thing in the bottom. With the slack taken up I can counter hold the bolt. Use your torque wrench, torque this to 133 foot-pounds. Repeat the same for the other bolt.
If you bend this shield, just bend it back. Install the ABS sensor bracket. It's a really small little bolt so I'm just going to thread it in. When it gets tight I will stop. Reinstall the brake hose. Goes in place here. Get it started. Until I get tight I'm just going to stop. Reinstall the original sway bar link or a brand new one. Now torque these to 29 foot-pounds. Make sure it doesn't get caught on this trim here, this piece on this trim. I was holding it up. Slide it underneath it. It should line up nice with the bolt hole underneath.
To install the side bolster and put this tab up into the body. Pull the seatbelts out of the way, then slide this up. Kind of see from behind where the tab needs to go. Make sure it doesn't get caught on this trim here, this piece on this trim that was holding it up. Slide it underneath it. It should line up nice with the bolt hole underneath.
Install the side bolster. This part slides down into the back over here of the sheet metal. This bolts into the bottom part here. Watch out you don't grab the seatbelts and kind of just see behind it on this side. Push in. Line up down the bottom.
Now we can lift up these seats to install the lower seat. You want to make sure you don't lose your seatbelt buckles. You can buckle them into the upper seat belts. These are going to go up underneath the back seat. I'm just going to slide it in like this. I'm going to push it forward and push it down into the locks. Repeat that for the other side. Unbuckle your seat belts. Move them lower where they belong. Your seat is reinstalled.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
12mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Punch
Wheel Chocks
10mm Socket
Floor Jack
Tools used
12mm Socket
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Punch
Large Hammer
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Chisel
30mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
SCA57071
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
3.70/ 5.027
27 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
15
2
2
3
5
They do the job
Brain
February 3, 2017
They work fine and installation was easy but they seem overly stiff to me after 1 month driving with them. Handling was improved. My other issue is that the Alignment shop showed the camber was off in the red on 1 wheel and close to red on others. These are not adjustable camber unless you also purchase camber adjusting bolts at an additional cost. If I do that I'll have to swap the bolts then get another alignment. I don't want to pay for that so I guess I am going to live with it for now.
Robert
March 11, 2017
Easy to install fast shipping quality part at a very reasonable price will be doing business with you guys again real soon
Strut assembly
Brian
April 23, 2017
Good price but stiff ride and no camber adjustment. So the money I saved on the struts end up costing me in the long run as I had to have camber bolts installed which were pricey. Would not recommend these as the savings does not exceed the end cost to have it fixed properly.
You pay for what you get
gregory
July 17, 2017
I have a 2007 Lexus ES 350. I drive my car 60 miles a day roundtrip. Its my "hooptee" car to and from work. If this is what you use your car for then this will do. But I do hear noise coming from them after six months. The ride is very stiff but the price is good. On the same note if you use your car for other than this then spend the extra money, I wish I had. I would not recommend this product and I don't have the money to take them out and purchased better ones.
Lesson Learned - 1A Auto Needs to Drop these...
Jerry
July 18, 2017
I love 1A Auto, and will continue to buy from them, but they should know that this is a product that falls well below their otherwise high standards.
While these were easy to install, the money I saved ended up costing me big time. Even after getting new tires, and a precision alignment, these are dreadful. Initially they were very stiff and I kept hearing a rattle. I took it to a suspension shop and had them make sure I installed correctly. They confirmed all was properly fitted and torqued, but told me I made a poor choice in brand and model. After 7 months, it's almost as though I did not get new shocks at all. Anyone in the back seat has to have a stable stomach because the bounce is unending, and depending on road conditions, quite severe.
Spend the extra money and buy a quality product.
I've learned my lesson.
Strut & Spring Assembly
D
July 26, 2017
Great deal! Work good at a fair price! I would buy them again
C
February 16, 2018
Love the product! fast shipping and i will order from this site again.
Top quality for a great price!
Chris
April 7, 2018
1AAuto has a great selection of auto parts, brand name and unbranded. Everything I have purchased has for perfectly and done a great job of fixing my car. They had prices that couldn't be beat, and super fast shipping. The strut package was perfect for what I needed to do. I will definitely but from them again and refer my friends.
Works Awsome!
H
June 23, 2018
i buy 4 sturts for mu Camry and its Amazing, i love it.
You get what you pay for
D
November 19, 2018
I had these struts put into a 2008 Camry Hybrid. I hear more noise coming from them after installation then from the old 140000 mile old OEM struts. The ride is very stiff but the price is good. On the same note if you use your car for smooth ride and quiet ride then spend the extra money, I wish I had! I would not recommend this product and I don't have the money to take them out and purchased better ones at this time
Poor quality struts
J
December 27, 2018
Do not buy these struts. I put them on my wifes 2010 Camry a couple months ago and they bounce very badly and make a rattling sound. Took it to a mechanic and the installation was correct but they said its just a sub-par product and said the car isnt even safe to drive until I get OEM parts. What started out as a great deal ended up costing me more
The Perfect Solution!
M
May 6, 2019
I have a 2010 Camry with 130K miles on it. The suspension components were end-of-life and the shop wanted $2000 just to do front struts and lower control arms. I placed my order online and it was very easy. I made a mistake and was on-the-floor-shocked when a person answered after little or no hold time. She was helpful and knew exactly what she was doing. I was able to purchase lower control arms, ball joints and tie rods as well as all 4 struts for a price that seemed almost too good to be true. My product arrived and a friend and installed all the components. We even watched an 1A video or two on youtube. In the end, my wheel bearings were shot and I broke down and had a shop do those, but the end result is for about half the money, I was able to basically rebuild my entire suspension and get new plugs for about half what they wanted to charge me for front struts and control arms. After this experience, I am a raging fan. I even told my neighbor he should purchase parts for his car
Perfect Fit
samantha
June 10, 2019
Ordered shocks, and bearings for my 2010 Toyota Camry. My shocks that came off were the ones that had been on the car since bought. The new ones from 1A Auto were a perfect fit , easy to install instructions very helpful. The only reason I didn't give 5 stars was and it was probably my fault as I am a girl but the shocks were a little stiffer then I expected. Been driving roughly 120 miles so far and they are starting to ease up some. Would buy again ANYTHING from 1A Auto. This is the only place I purchase and items needed. Fast service and cheapest price. Best place ever
GREAT!
Donna
August 9, 2019
These were easy to order, much cheaper, and work great! Thank you for saving me money!
The rear struts clunk like crazy
P
February 4, 2021
I bought a set for a 2007 camry. The rear one clunk like crazy. You can put your hand on the top strut bolt while it is driving and feel it move around. Don't buy these and get KYB instead.
Shocks making clunk noise
H
October 7, 2021
Hi, I bought a set TRQ for 2006 Toyota Avalon limited and they a clunk sound on all sizes.
I replace all bushing thinking due to the new shocks and still makes the noise. This is a really nice car and now feels like junk when we drive it
Can you guys help me with this?
404-379-4949
Boot doesn't cover hydraulic!
Evan
October 31, 2021
The boot does not cover the hydraulic, so dirt gets in right away. Now it rattles.
Billy
December 27, 2021
Quick Delivery, great video assist.
Oluwasegun
April 25, 2022
Fine and fit
Would definitely recommend
Star
May 6, 2022
I have installed my struts front and back and I can tell you compared to my old struts my ride and quieter and more comfortable! Great product I would definitely recommend!
Great Struts
Mark
September 12, 2022
Great struts, looks well made and after installation my Camry gives a much better and quieter ride.
John
February 18, 2023
Fit as it should.
Itiel
June 27, 2023
Good
Easy to install strut kits, Camry
thomas
October 18, 2023
The strut kits were super easy to install and we're a perfect fit. Fantastic diy price!!
Tomlee
February 6, 2024
Love it ??
Salim
March 19, 2024
Good quality excellent condition
Thank you
A++++
Danville-
May 7, 2024
Fit like a glove A+++
Customer Q&A
What brand are the shocks/strut assembly?June 2, 2016
Andres C
10
We have a few different aftermarket companies build these parts specifically for us, as our 1A Auto house brand. They are manufactured to the same OEM specifications as the original part that came with your vehicle. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
June 3, 2016
Brian F
10
They were good and ready to be fit.
May 4, 2019
Tayyab R
How do I adjust shocks and struts?July 30, 2016
Howard C
10
There is no adjustment for the struts
July 30, 2016
Rick P
10
You can't adjust them only after installing them you should have the car aligned
This quick struts are self-adjusting ......
July 31, 2016
Yianni L
10
No adjustments needed. Install, get alignment and drive
August 1, 2016
Brian F
Do these struts fit a 2010 Camry SE 2.5 engine?October 31, 2017
Steve F
Does these struts fit 2010 GS350?May 7, 2018
Glenn C
Can you return the item if it's the wrong part I get a refund?October 15, 2021
Tara T
10
An item must meet one of the following conditions and be returned within 60 days from delivery to be eligible for a return:
The item received was incorrect
The item was unintentionally purchased
The item is no longer needed
The item arrived damaged
The item has a defect(s)
The item failed during intended use under warranty
The item does not fit your vehicle
1A Auto is not responsible for any damage, labor, return shipping costs, or any other inconveniences incurred.
October 15, 2021
Cristina P
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Lexus is a registered trademark of Toyota Motor Corporation. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Lexus or Toyota Motor Corporation.See all trademarks.
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