Ford Mustang Front & Rear 16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA28689

Once your vehicle is raised and supported safely, you're gonna remove all 5 lug nuts using a 21-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel. The next thing we're gonna do is remove these bolts right here that hold the caliper to the slider fins of the bracket. Use my 14-millimeter to take out both those bolts. I'm gonna continue with that pry bar just get this caliper out of the way. Let's get these pads out of here. Next, I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter and and take out these 2 caliper bracket bolts and remove that bracket. The next thing you would wanna do is just take one of your lug nuts, start it on one of the studs here. If the rotor is stuck on, which this one isn't, you just take your hammer and give it a little bonk to break it free. The lug nut is gonna keep it from possibly coming off and hurting you. Get the rotor right off of here. All right. So, at this point, we can see the cover right here. I'm gonna use this tool, it's got some little edges on it. I'm gonna come right along the edge where the cap meets onto the hub, grab on to it right there. Give it a little bonk, breaks it free. You wanna check your cap to make sure there's no damage that might let moisture in there. This looks great. We'll set it aside.

At this point, we're gonna remove this axle nut. Use your 36-millimeter socket. Grab your hub, pull it off of there. Next, I'm gonna take some solvent, clean up this area. Check to make sure there's no burrs or anything anywhere around this. That looks really good. If it's caught up, you might need to do something about that. Now is gonna be time to install our brand new hub. I'm gonna use a tiny bit of threadlocker. Right along the threads, slide this bearing up on here. Grab your nut. Now, we're gonna bottom this out. Torque this to 251 foot-pounds. Torqued. I used a little bit of RTV or gasket maker right along the edge. Just bonk that on there. Of course, clean up your mess when you're done. Let's put a little bit of copper never seize on here, to your rotor. Throw it up on there. I have a spare nut and then one of my lug nuts. That's just gonna hold the rotor from moving around too much on me.

Now, if you look at your mounting bolts, if you see threadlocker or a whole bunch of rust, you need to make sure you clean up those threads and then we're gonna reapply threadlocker. Now, it's time to get the bracket on here. I've got my bolts nice and clean with a little bit of threadlocker. We're gonna start them both in. Bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get our brake pads on here. So, these little pins right here hold the pad away from the rotor. So, as soon as you release the brake pedal, they're gonna wanna separate and then the rotor is gonna be able to cool down as you drive.

Next, we're gonna grab the caliper. You're gonna notice your slider pins have the flat area and then the rounded area. You want these flat areas to be up against the flat area on the caliper. That's gonna hold them from spinning. Squeeze those pads in, of course. Start in both of these then we'll bottom them out and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 25 foot-pounds. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now, we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer specifications. Now, with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're gonna remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel, set it aside. Next, we're gonna take off the outer tie rod end nut. At this point, I'm just gonna put this nut on there just a couple threads, and then I'm gonna hit right here on the knuckle until this drops down. You wanna be careful not to damage your boot. If you follow your subframe along, and you see this nut right here, you're gonna remove that nut and this one right here. And those have bolts that come through from the top, so you just use your 18-millimeter wrench. Grab that bolt head. Should be up there. Take this out of there. Do the same to the other side. Grab both bolts out, grab your power steering rack, give it a wiggle.

Okay. So, now that it came out of its spot, you can see this bolt right here. We're gonna remove that bolt completely. We're gonna use our 18-millimeter swivel. Okay. Get this off there. Next, we're gonna move along to the rear side of the subframe here where the control arm connects in. You've got a 21-millimeter nut there and one right here. On top, it's a captured bolt so you don't have to worry too much about it spinning too much. It's got a little tab on there. Okay. I'm gonna leave that on just a little bit. That looks good. Here we go. Let's leave that right like that. Let's move along to over here. Use a 15-millimeter to hold this side of the bolt, then use an 18-millimeter on the other side to remove the nut. Let's get that nut on there just a little bit. Got a little punch and hammer. Okay. Use that. Let's continue driving it out.

The next thing we wanna do is drive this ball joint stud down. So, you can use an air chisel and go right on the stud like that. You could try to use a pickle fork and come in between the control arm and the knuckle. Whatever you need to do, definitely make sure you have some penetration on there though. Awesome. Let's go ahead and pop these bolts out of here. Be careful not to damage that power steering rack of course. It's pretty close. Let's get these bolts out of here. There's one, there's a second one.

All right. So, I'm just gonna pull this down, pull our knuckle out of the way, and pull out that control arm. Let's take some of this copper never-seize, go right inside that ball joint hole. Perfect. Let's start putting this lower control arm in, put the rear up and over there, and then we're gonna get this ball joint stud started. Let me see if I can get it somewhere to go in a little bit. There we go. Now, we're gonna try to get the rest of it lined up. Let's get this bolt in there.

Now, I'm gonna take my bolts for the rear, start those through. This one might not go as far down. Okay. Grab those nuts, start them on there. All right. I've got both of those started. If for some reason you're having a hard time, you can use a long pry bar, use a little bit of leverage to try to pry down on this. Let's snug these up. Start in this bolt. So, now we're gonna get the lower ball joint bolt in here. What you wanna do is pay attention to this hole. Try to look through and see if you can see the slot on the lower ball joint stud. Make sure that it lines up with the hole. If it doesn't, just use your small pry bar, a little bit of leverage, and then you should be able to move it around to get it lined up. Here we are. Give it a bonk. We've got our nut, start that on there. Awesome. Let's snug this. All right. So, all the mounting points for this are snugged up, let's go ahead and torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Now it's time to torque up these bolts. I'm gonna start with the ball joint to the knuckle bolt using my 15-millimeter to hold it so I can't spin. I'm gonna torque this to 76 foot-pounds. There we are. Now, we're gonna torque these nuts to 129 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now, we're gonna torque this forward bolt to129 foot-pounds as well. Torqued.

So, now it's time to get the rack back inside here. Just gonna push it. If it doesn't work, you can use something as simple as a rubber mallet. Give it a couple of light bonks. Obviously, you don't wanna damage it by using a metal hammer. Now, we're gonna put our bolts down and through and then we'll put the nuts on here. That's our bolt. Same to the other side. Get them started on there. Awesome. Now, it's time to bottom those out. Let's finish by torquing this down. We're gonna torque it to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Bring your knuckle around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Spot on this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59 foot-pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now, we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's best... Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in the star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21 millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel, set it aside. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the sway bar link from right here. If you use an 18-millimeter wrench, you can come right inside the backside there and grab onto that, and then an 18-millimeter socket and remove these two. Pull this pull pin off. There we are, that gives us plenty of slack there. Now we're going to use a 10-millimeter right here and remove this one. Let's get the 10-millimeter one here. The next thing we're going to remove is the bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut. Use an 18-millimeter, and then be careful because this will come up and swing around. There we are, and we'll leave that right there. Do the lower one. Same thing, watch out for that thing that comes around. This one looks like it had rotted off so I'm going to grab that with some pliers. All right. Both those bolts are the same. Now I'm going to use a pry bar, come right in between the knuckle and the shock strut. Just kind of pry apart, but be careful because you have your brake line still attached. There we are. Now you just want to hang this so it doesn't put any pressure on your ABS or your brake hose. Use a 13-millimeter, remove these four nuts. Leave that one on there a couple threads. Set those aside. Now I'm going to hold up the shock, remove this nut, take it right out. Awesome.

Let's get ready for install. Okay, getting close. There we go. That was easy. TRQ strut comes with brand new locking nuts so I'm gonna use those. If for some reason you weren't, I would definitely use some threadlocker. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 26 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here, line this back up. We've got our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker on these. And our nuts, that on there. This one's a little bit harder to get to. It's gonna push that bolt out a little bit so I can get the nut on there. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these bolts to 148 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Let's get the mounting bracket for the brake hose back on here. Make sure you tighten that up. Now clip in the little clip for your ABS wire. Perfect. Okay, now let's bottom these out. Use your 18-millimeter right there, 18-millimeter on this side as well, snug them up. Let's torque these to 85 foot-pounds. Get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer specification. Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all 5 lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel. Set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Make sure you have a good grip. There we are. That broke free.

The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here, and this is going to fall down, then that's going to prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. It's not off of there. Okay.

When you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off, 23 is what I've got for mine. Yours might differ, but it's probably approximately that.

Grab your outer tie rod end, and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring it up around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59 foot pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here.

Start on all your lug nuts, and then bottom them out. Now we're going to bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's best. Now with the vehicles wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.

Okay, friends. So what I did is I raised the vehicle. I put jack stands underneath the differential tube, and then I lowered the vehicle back down so it's pretty much taking the weight off of the shock. I have the wheel off because it makes it easier for me to work. You don't necessarily have to remove it. I'm gonna remove this bolt right here using a 15-millimeter. After that, I'm gonna go up top.

I'm just gonna take that bolt. Just put it in there just a teeny bit just to hold that shock so it doesn't fall. So next we're going to go inside the trunk. You can pull down this little felt panel here, then you see the upper portion of that shock. Remove this 15-millimeter as well.

Now I'm gonna grab the shock, and remove that bolt, and then carefully slide this out. There it is.

So once you cut the ribbon off of your shock, it's important to use this cap and then press straight down on this. What this is gonna do is it's gonna charge the shock. The gases inside need to mix. Every time you do this, this is going to come up a little faster, and it's gonna get a little bit harder to push down. You need to do this three to five times.

So the next thing we're gonna do is take this grommet right here. A little bit of lube. I'm just gonna go right along this like that. I'll show you why. We're gonna come under here and just help this up into the body of the vehicle just like that.

So next, you're gonna take your shock. I'm gonna put this little metal piece so it's facing up. You've got a cup there. Come in here just like this. If you wanted to, you could put a little bit of lube on that shock as well. I'm going to do it. All right. Grab that shock bolt, start putting it through.

You've got the nut. You've got the little flippy do here, that's gonna line up with right there. Start this in. Let's go up top. I've got these three pieces left so I'm gonna take this little rubber grommet right on top just like that. My cup is going to face down. Then, of course, you've got your locking nut with the neoprene. The neoprene faces up and away from the shock. Awesome.

So now I'm just gonna snug this up a little bit. All right. Now I'm gonna bottom-up the bottom side and then we'll torque these to manufacturer specifications. So to torque the upper mounting nut up there, you're going to need to hold this because it's going to want to spin. Just use some nice locking pliers. Carefully go up along the top here and lock them in. Now we're gonna torque this nut to 30 foot-pounds. There it is right there.

Now we're gonna bottom out this bolt. Torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this back up in here. Lift up on this liner, just go all the way around. Something nice like that. Perfect. Now, with the wheels, make sure you torque your lug nuts in a crisscross manner to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully, remove the wheel, set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Try to have a good grip. There we are, That broke free.

The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're gonna take a hammer and we're gonna hit right here, and this is gonna fall down, the nut's gonna prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. This nut off of there. Okay, when you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it, you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off. Twenty-three is what I've got for mine. Here's my differ, but it's probably approximately that. Now I'm gonna hold my pliers. Use a 22-millimeter socket on this right here. Try to get the jam nut out of the way.

Next we're going to get the bellows boot off of here, to do that there's going to be a clamp of some sort on this side, and a clamp of some sort on this side. Now we're going to give the bellows boot a tug, and try to get it right off this inner tie rod end. At this point, you want to check the bellows boot, make sure it's not ripped or torn in any way. Or of course, if it's overly stiff that might become an issue. If you happen to take a peek inside, and you see it's full of fluid, more than likely if it came from inside of your power steering rack right here, in which case you would need to replace the power steering rack.

Here we go. Gonna grab onto this inner tie rod end with my pliers, get to the right size, turn it counterclockwise. There we are, take this right off of here.

There it is. Time to get ready for an install. I put on a tiny bit of thread-locker. I used the lube that was included with the inner tie rod end. I put it all inside that ball and socket, and then just a little bit of lube down on these threads over here. You can also use some Never-Seez. It's bottomed out. Grab this with my pliers, make sure I have a nice good handle on it. Give it a little snug. About halfway up your inner tie rod end, you're gonna be able to feel this little groove. You want to make sure you put a little bit of that lube from your packet right there as well. When we put the bellows boot on, this is gonna slide all the way down, and then that's where this is gonna sit. You want to make sure that you have lube there, that's gonna help the alignment technician down the road.

Okay, and everything flowing, that feels good. Make sure you put a clamp here and a clamp right there.

Tiny bit of copper Never-Seez doesn't hurt. This jam nut, and put it down probably about halfway or a little bit further. Grab your outer tie rod end and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring your knuckle around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59-foot-pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down, and torque it to manufacturer's specifications.

Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground, but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in a star pattern to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.