Kit Includes: (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Lower Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Sway Bar Links
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension)
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2005-10 Pontiac G6
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2005-10 Chevy Cobalt
How to Replace Sway Bar Links 2004-12 Chevy Malibu
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends 2008-12 Chevy Malibu
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2007-2009 Saturn Aura
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt
How to Replace Front Control Arm 2007-2009 Saturn Aura
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2007-2009 Saturn Aura
How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 2008-12 Chevy Malibu
How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 2005-2010 Pontiac G6
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2005-2010 Pontiac G6
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2005-2010 Pontiac G6
Created on:
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Measuring Tape
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
13/16 Inch Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
Make note of this measurement
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod
Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle
Twist off the outer tie rod by hand
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Place vise grip pliers to hold the other part of the ball joint
Fasten the 18mm nut onto the outer tie rod with a socket
Place the pliers on the bottom of the bolt
Tighten the nut with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.
Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.
Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.
Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.
Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.
Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.
Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
8mm Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Testing the Stabilizer Link
Turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel
Try to move the stabilizer link by hand
A clanking or rattling noise indicates a faulty stabilizer link
2. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Pull off the hub cap
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
3. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Apply penetrating oil to the stabilizer link bolts
Attach an 18mm wrench to the top stabilizer link nut
Attach an 8mm wrench to the top stabilizer link stud
Turn the 18mm wrench to remove the nut
Attach an 18mm wrench to the lower stabilizer link nut
Attach an 8mm wrench to the lower stabilizer link stud
Turn the 18mm wrench to remove the nut
Pull out the stabilizer link
4. Installing the New Stabilizer Link
Put the new stabilizer link into place
Start the nuts onto the stabilizer link
Attach a 15mm wrench to the upper stabilizer link bolt
Tighten the nut with a 19mm socket and ratchet
Attach a 15mm wrench to the lwoer stabilizer link bolt
Tighten the nut with a 19mm wrench
Tighten the nuts to between 40 - 45 foot-pounds of torque
5. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Put on the hub cap, lining up the hole with the tire valve stem
Tighten the lug nut cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.
Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.
Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.
Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.
Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Locking Pliers
17mm Wrench
17mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Copper Anti-Seize
19mm Socket
Cotter Pin
Torque Angle Gauge
Safety Glasses
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Marker / Writing Utensil
Okay friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe, so have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle, safely raised and supported. We're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts.
Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area, I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now, we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut.
If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have, and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure, and we'll try again. If your tie rod still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here, and break it free.
For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with, because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it, and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. It's always important to make sure you coat your threads with something such as copper never seize.
Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18 foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees, so basically a quarter turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another quarter turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that, and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.
The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut compared to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.
Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Locking Pliers
17mm Wrench
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
17mm Wrench
Large Locking Pliers
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Rubber Mallet
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm wrench
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Hammer
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Anti-Seize Grease
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
Socket Extensions
14mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Pickle Fork
Rubber Mallet
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Marker / Writing Utensil
Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, I always like to put just one lug nut back on just to hold the rotor from flopping around. We have a nice, clear view of our lower control arm at this point, we're going to be removing this bolt right here. Up above that, you're going to see two nuts that have bolts that come through from the bottom. We're going to spray those two nuts as well. And then if you were to follow the control arm all the way over to the knuckle, you're going to see that there's a pinch bolt that goes through right there. And, of course, a slot on the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Let's spray all those areas as well. The next thing I like to do is remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint. I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter here to take off the nut and hold the bolt with a 16-millimeter. I might need to use a punch and a hammer to get this out of here. I'm gonna respray this area with more penetrant and let it sit and do its job. Let's move along. Next, let's remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. Let's remove the forward bolt. Let's just leave this bolt in just a tiny bit. Let's get our wrench onto these top nuts up there and remove the bolts from the bottom.
Now we need to separate our ball joint from the knuckle itself. To do that, I'm going to bonk right along here with my hammer and just try to separate the two. You could also use a pickle fork, come right in between here. Or if you had to, you could try to spread the knuckle a little bit using a punch. As you can tell, it's starting to separate. Let's continue. Sometimes a pry bar will come in handy. Let's remove our forward bolt, tilt this down some more. Continue with the pry bar. Draw this out of here. Grab the control arm, pull it towards the front of the vehicle. Let's get the rearward bracket out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing I like to do is mark the control arm with the rearward bushing, so I know how they need to line up. And then we're going to remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. There we are. Take this right off of here. Set it aside. Next. I like to apply thread locker to all my bolts that I'm going to be reinstalling. Now we're going to loosely install our rearward bushing here. You want to make sure that you have this portion facing towards the front and not this portion. My bolt, there it is. Next, I like to apply a little bit of grease or lubricant along the shaft area right here. It's going to help it slide into that bushing. And just a tad up along the ball joint stud here, let's go ahead and put this up in here like this. Put it through that rear bushing.
Now we're just gonna swing this up. We're going to try to line our ball joint up with the knuckle right there. There we are. Carefully using a rubber mallet. Start the bolt through there, pin that on there. Now we need to do the forward bushing. Slide that like that so it's lined up. Now we're going to carefully bonk under here with a rubber mallet and try to line up the forward hole. Start this in. This other bolt started in here as well. At this point, we're going to snug these two up. Put some thread locker on this bolt and put this in there. We're going to bottom it out. Let's carefully bottom this out. Now we're gonna torque this. You want to torque it to 37, loosen it up a little bit, re-torque it to 37, and then we're going to go an additional 30 degrees. Okay. So, there's 37, now we're just going to go our approximate additional 30 degrees. Now we're gonna tighten these bolts to 37 foot-pounds, and then we'll also tighten them an additional 90 degrees afterward. So, I'm gonna turn this just like this, and now I'll bring the ratchet pretty much straight back to me. There we are. Do the same to the other one.
Next, we need to apply load to the suspension so it would be as though the vehicle's wheel is on the ground and the weight of the vehicle's on it. That's it right there. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and bottom out this bolt right here. Now we're going to torque this bolt to 37 foot-pounds. And then after we've done that, we need to continue an extra 90 degrees. There we are. The next thing we need to do is snug this up right here, and then torque it to 32 foot-pounds. Let's unload the suspension. Let's get this lug nut off of here. Put the wheel back on, start all the lug nuts, bottom them out, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Rubber Mallet
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Anti-Seize Grease
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Blowtorch
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Anti-Seize Grease
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
PSA56248
In Stock
Product Reviews
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5.00/ 5.010
10 reviews
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1 Star
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Hi quality. Exact fit.
Mark
January 22, 2017
All parts were high quality. Tie rods came with grease fittings -- better than the original ones. The videos from your site always help. I would recommend these parts. Always best prices too.
Parts ordered
Pete
May 12, 2017
I purchased ball joints and tie rod ends and control arms for a 2007 Chevrolet Malibu everything fit perfect also saved me 500 dollars for 2.5 hrs of work thanks I will definitely purchase from you again.
John
December 24, 2017
The parts Were the right fit and I look forward to getting other parts for my projects in the near future.
Parts
T
March 26, 2018
I thought the quality of the parts was excellentWrite your review here. It must be at least 50 characters long. Consider whether you would recommend this product and what you like or dislike about it.
2010 Malibu front suspension
E
July 28, 2018
Installed all parts on my own. The A1 online videos were extremely helpful in preparing me for what to expect as well as the process. The sway bar links included in the kit, in my opinion, were much easier and installer friendly than the originals I removed. The passenger side lower control arm presented me with a bit of a wrestling match to get it to install but certainly not a problem with the part. I estimate in total to install both sides it took me a half day maybe a bit longer.
My rating is based on; delivery, ease of ordering, what appears to be quality products and quality installation videos. I cannot speak to the long-term quality of the product.
Great Service
F
August 21, 2018
Phone support was very good. Turn around time on shipping was very fast!
Great accurate parts
David
October 24, 2018
This has to be one of the best on line parts store there is I've ordered from here a few times and is my preferred site has the best prices parts are right when they drive and normally are delivered before the actual date they say normally 3 days on regular delivery
6 piece steering and suspension kit for 2008 Pontiac G6
T
April 29, 2020
The product arrived on time, fit perfectly. Works properly. Would recommend to anyone.
Works great.
Eric
December 3, 2021
This kit is what I needed for my Pontiac G6. The car has over 250,000 miles on it and everything was worn out. This kit fit perfectly and works like it is brand new.
Kenneth
April 3, 2024
Great
Customer Q&A
Will these work on my 2004 Chevy Malibu LT?August 20, 2018
Quartney L
10
This will fit as long as your model is without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension).
August 20, 2018
Emma F
How do I find out if my car is without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension).?August 20, 2018
Quartney L
10
You would be able to check your VIN and it would tell you if you have the suspension.
August 20, 2018
Emma F
Customer service
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