Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
I'm gonna take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver to get that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench just to hold the slide from spinning. Loosen these up. Now, just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull it out. Then you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Just use the same straight blade screwdriver. And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts up. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off. Now, take the rotor off. If it's stuck on there, just take a hammer, give it a tap in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Keep it loose. Try not to breathe any of that in and slide it off. I'm just gonna clean up this surface right here. You can use a wire brush or some type of grinding wheel. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. Just get some of the rust off. Take a little anti-seize, just put it on the hub area right here. Now, we're just gonna put the rotor on backwards first and we're gonna clean off the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. There is a protective coating on this, clean that up. You can clean up the inside of the drum area as well for the parking brake. Flip that around and clean off this area as well.
When you go to put the rotor on, you may have to adjust the parking brake. You can spin that wheel either forward or backward and...or you can either tighten it or loosen it. Just slide the rotor on just to make sure it spins good. And then double-check with your parking brake and adjust accordingly. Now, take these pad clips off or pad slides or sometimes they call them anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Use a wire brush, clean up any rust built up, right here, and on the other side. With that cleaned up, and then just take a little brake caliper grease, give it a nice thin coat. It's gonna keep the moisture out, keep it from rusting as bad as it was. Then take these clips and slide it in position. Put more caliper grease, just a nice thin coat there and there, wherever the pads are gonna contact it. And then do the same on this side. I'm gonna take these caliper guide pins out. Use a little brake parts cleaner and a rag, clean these up. And I'll also spray a little brake parts cleaner down there. Clean those up with a rag as well. You can drain anything out. And take some brake caliper grease, coat the pin, put it back in. Make sure it seals, and do the same on this one. Slide the brake caliper bracket in place, put the bolts in. You can use a little thread locking compound on the bolts. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds.
Now, I'm gonna install the brake pads. Make sure you have the brake pad warning indicator facing up on the outside and also on the inside. Now, take the brake caliper off, take the hanger off. Now, I have to compress the caliper, so use a brake caliper compressing tool. Just compress it really slow. This is gonna push the fluid through the hoses, back through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir. Just go nice and slow. All right, if that's compressed, pull the compressing tool out. Now, we have a new little bracket right here. It comes with the brake kit. Just take a straight blade screwdriver, this little tab right here, just push in on that tab. Slide that off, take the new one, slide it in there, and then just push it, lock it in place. So, that's in there just like that. This is just gonna push down on the pads and just keep them from rattling around. Slide the caliper over the brake pads in the bracket. Take the two bolts, install the bolts. You can put some thread locking compound on those bolts, and then use my 16-millimeter wrench, 12-millimeter socket, torque these bolts to 31 foot-pounds. And reinstall the wheel, put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Then just go around again, double-check. And then reinstall the center cap. Now, I'm gonna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pad, so we wanna eliminate that air gap. And once the pedal feels good, then you're all set. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. There's the minimum line right there and the max line right there, adjust accordingly.
Tools used
We're gonna start by taking the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off all the lug nuts. And take the wheel off. Now, we can take these caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Now, you can grab the caliper. You might want to rock it back and forth a little bit. That'll compress the piston a little, make it easier to slide off.
And then, you can use a brake caliper hanger, and just hang it from the upper control arm, or you can hang it from the coil spring just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now, take the brake pads off, just slide them out of the way. Now, we're gonna take the bracket off. You need to take these two bolts out, use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen these up. And then, grab the bracket, and just slide it off. Now, you're gonna take the rotor off, just grab it and slide it.
If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these locations. It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit. Just try to wiggle it. You can just take a prybar and try, and pry in here a little bit. It should get this off. All right. I'm just gonna take two screwdrivers, just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go, slides right off. Before you put the new rotor on, just take a wire brush, and just clean up some of the rust right here. You could also use a die grinder, and just don't sand down too much. Just get some of the rust off.
Now, you're gonna install this rotor backwards first. Take a little brake parts cleaner, just clean off the backside, and flip it around, and slide it over the parking brake. If you have to adjust the parking brake, you can adjust it right there. And then, spray this side with brake parts cleaner, and wipe it down with a rag. Now, you're gonna take a wire brush, and just clean up this bracket. If you're gonna reuse these clips, just clean these up. If not, take them off.
Just clean up some of this rust right here. Do the same with the other side. And then, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a nice, thin coat right here. Same on the other side. And then, take these pad slides, and do the same. Put on a nice, thin coat. And then, take these pad slides out. The slide pins. Take a little break parts cleaner and a rag. Just wipe these off. You can clean this out with brake parts cleaner as well. Wipe that down.
Take a little brake caliper grease, and just reinstall it, and do the same with the other side. Now, take the caliper bracket, and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now, I'm gonna put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicators are gonna go to the top. So, on the inboard pad goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them into position. That's good.
Now, I'm gonna take the brake caliper off the hook. Now, I'm just gonna take the old brake pads and a caliper compressor tool and just compress the pistons. You need to push them back into the caliper, and just slowly compress it. You don't want to do it too fast. It's just gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir.
All right. That's good. Fully compressed, and just slide it over the brake pads. Put the caliper bolts in. And take a 17-millimeter wrench, and torque this bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. All right. Put the wheel on, and put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheels down evenly, and just go around and double-check.
Tools used
I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts, take the wheel off. Now remove the wheel. Now use a 12-millimeter socket, take this caliper bolt off. I will do the same on the top one. And if you have to, you can use a wrench on the stud if the caliper slide is spinning. Then you can hold that. Now grab the caliper, just twist it a little bit, that'll compress the piston and slide it up. And you can use a brake caliper hanger. And just find a spot to hang it from, would be somewhere in the frame over here. Just as long as the brake hose doesn't have any tension on. It's good right there. Now I will take the brake pads off. And use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two bolts out. And take those bolts out and slide the bracket right off.
Take the new bracket. And we'll just take a little caliper lube and just grease the caliper, and put these caliper slides on, or anti-rattle clips. And just take and give it a nice thin coat of more caliper grease. Now take the bracket and slide it over the rotor. And take the bolts, you can use some thread-lock adhesive on them, and get those started. And now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. And take the brake pads and slide those on. Brake-warning indicator goes to the top. And same on the inside, goes on the top. And take the caliper and just slide it in position. Take the bolts, get those started. Then I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench, put that on the caliper slide and then torque this bolt to 31 foot-pounds. And do the same for the top.
Now just take the old caliper and we're gonna take this bolt off, take the banjo bolt off. We wanna do this pretty quickly. It's a good idea to double-check your reservoir for the brake fluid and make sure it's topped off so you don't lose all the brake fluid. You can see one of the seals, or washers, stayed right there. And we wanna take the other washer off the other seal. Put the seal on, and slide it through the hose. And the new seal on that side as well. And get this started. I will tighten this down. And take a torque wrench and I'm gonna torque this to 30 foot-pounds.
Take a 10-millimeter wrench and open up the bleeder screw. Double-check your master reservoir. And we're just gonna let this gravity bleed out. Once you get a nice steady stream, you wanna make sure this bleed screw is closed. And then have a partner get in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal. Go ahead, pump the brake pedal. There's a little bit of an air-gap in between the caliper and the brake pads. And once the pedal starts getting hard, then you know that's filled up. So about five times. Pump it up and then hold it. And then while they're holding it, you're gonna open up this bleed screw, a little bit of air came out, and then close it. All right, pump it again and hold it.
While they're holding it, open it again. See if there's any air, maybe a little bit of air came out that time. And then one more time. Pump it up and hold it. And open it up one more time. And no air came out that time so we're good. Just snug that up. All right, give it up a pump. Feels good. All right, put the cap back on. You can clean that up with some brake parts cleaner and then double-check your fluid level and adjust accordingly.
And it's a good idea to go for a road test and after you're done, come back and take a look and make sure you don't have any leaks. And reinstall the tire. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again to double-check. Then check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Now, I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And take those bolts out. Just like that, and slide the caliper off. If you have to, you can take a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and just pry a little bit between the rotor, and then that'll just push the pads in, the piston in a little bit. And take a break caliper hanger, and just hang the brake caliper somewhere. Now we'll take the brake pads off.
Just so the rotor doesn't come off, I'm just gonna take a lug nut and just put it on backwards, just to secure the rotor on there. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. And slide the bracket off. Take the new caliper bracket, just take a little thin coat of brake caliper grease just on that area right there and over here. And take these brake caliper slides, line these up, push those down and another thin coat of grease right there and right there. Do the same for the other side. Take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor. You can take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on the bolts and get those started. And torque those bolts to 129 foot-pounds.
Now we can take the brake pads. Now, the warning indicators on the outboard pad has two indicators and the one on the inboard pad only has one. And for the passenger side, you wanna make sure that indicator goes down and same with the driver's side. You want that indicator on the bottom. Now, take the brake caliper itself and line that up. And you wanna make sure that the brake caliper has the bleeder at the top. If you have the bleeder at the bottom, then you're on the wrong side. And caliper goes on the opposite side. And take the caliper guide pins or bolts. Get those started. You can put a little brake grease on these pins as well.
And this happens to be a different fastener than what we use to remove it, it's a T55. And then torque these two bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Before we transfer the brake hose over, just take this banjo bolt out and there's a couple of washes on here, and we're gonna switch these washers over. And then also the bleeder, just take this little cap off, and loosen this up. Use a 10-millimeter wrench. Now, double-check your brake hose. Make sure there's no cracking in the brake hose itself. And this one looks pretty good. It's always a good idea to replace the brake hose when you're replacing a caliper, but sometimes you don't have a choice. And then I'm gonna use an 11-millimeter socket and take this banjo bolt out.
And make sure your brake reservoir actually has a good amount of brake fluid in it because you're gonna lose some. So take the old banjo bolt off and take the seals off. Now it looks good. And then take the new banjo bolt with one of the washers on one side and put the other washer on the opposite side of the brake line, or brake hose, and get that started into the caliper. And it goes on this way. There is this little square at the bottom, has to line up properly with the brake hose going up. And tighten this down. And torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds.
Now, you can let this gravity bleed a little bit. Most of the brake fluid's gonna come through the system, push all the air out of the caliper and then you can snug this leader up. At this point, you can bleed the brakes normally. So when you bleed the brakes, you're gonna want someone else to pump the pedal for you as you open and close the bleeder. So if you have, start by having them pump the pedal until it gets hard because it's gonna be a big air gap in between the brake caliper piston and the brake pad itself. And then have them hold it. All right, go ahead, hold it. As they're holding the breakdown, open the bleeder. Some of the air just shot out and then close it up. All right, pump it again. Have them pump it three times and then hold it. And then open the bleeder screw, slowly. Some more air came out.
All right, tighten that up again. All right, go ahead, pump it. All right. And then open it up again. And that looked nice and clean, no air. So that should be good. Snug that up. Go ahead. Pump it. All right. If it feels good, you're all set. You can do the same with the other ones. Put that cap back on and you can clean up some of that brake fluid. You could use some soapy water or some brake parts cleaner. Right now I can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back on. Lug nuts on. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. And check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.
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