1997 Chevrolet C2500 Truck Front Passenger Side 2 Piece Power Window Regulator Kit TRQ WRA87311

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In this video we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's power window regulator. If you like this video, please click Subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. And if you need this part for your truck, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1aauto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Remove the two Phillips head screws inside of the armrest on the door. Do this with a Phillips head screwdriver. To remove the bezel around the interior door handle, you need to kind of get in there with a trim tool or a flat blade screwdriver, and push down on the tab to release it. There are three: one at the top, one at the bottom, and one on the side.

Remove the extension at the top of the door panel by prying out with a trim tool. Using your trim tool, pry up at the back of the power window switch. Lift it up and pull back to release the hook at the front. Disconnect the connector for your tweeter. Pop up the tab on this two pin connector at the front of the window switch, and pop the connector out, and then push down on the tab for the main connector and remove that from the switch. I'm using a pick here. You could also use a small flat blade screwdriver or a trim tool if you had to, really whatever works best for you.

Using the trim tool, pop out on the door reflector and remote the connector. This is another one of the ones we'll have to lift up on the tab with a pick. Using a trim tool, pry out the bottom of the door. You may need to work it a little bit to figure out where the tabs are. You'll also need to pop out this pin at the top on the front of the door. Once all the tabs are out, lift the panel up and remove it from the door.

Peel off the inner water shield on the door. There's also a small piece over in the corner. Make sure your window is rolled all the way down. There are ten 7 millimeter screws around the perimeter of the inner panel. One under the speaker here that's a little tricky to see, and a 10 millimeter at the front. We'll need to remove all of those with a socket and ratchet. Pull the panel forward. Pull out the handle rod. It may help to have a tool to help you get some leverage on it. You'll also want to pop that out of its guide clip. Same thing with the lock rod down here. We'll also need to pop this out of its guide rod and pull it out of the lock actuator as well. Pop out the tab for the courtesy light in the door. Lift up on the cover for the door lock actuator, and remove that connector. You need to fish it out and around. Pop that retainer through, and then pop out all the rest of the retaining clips to remove the harness from the door.

You'll also need to unplug the window motor and the door speaker. Pull the harness through the door. Slide the door panel forward until the window roller is out of its channel, then slide the guide out of the back, and remove the assembly from your vehicle.

Drill out the heads of the four rivets securing the window motor to the door panel. There are two on the front and two on the back. If the centers are drilled out, you may still need to chisel off what's left of the heads. Once you free the window motor and bracket from the inner panel, slide the other leg out of its retainer and remove the assembly from your inner door panel.

Here we have our old window motor and regulator that we removed from our truck and our new part from 1A Auto. As you can see these parts are almost identical. There are some very minor differences in the motor being its size. This actually comes with a harness to connect. It's the same as the plug that's on our old motor. It just makes it a little easier to get on and off, which is a nice feature to have. Other than that the same four hole mounting location for our rivets, we have the same leg for the other end of the guide over here, same two tabs on the back that will actually sit into our window to move it up and down, and the same toothed gear here to actually move it up and down in the door.

If your motor or regulator has gone bad and your window isn't going up and down at all, or straight and even, it's getting stuck, or it's just getting noisy, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

We're going to put some white grease in the rails where our window regulator sits, just to make sure it runs smoothly and lasts a long time. We'll slide this end in. Now we don't have a rivet gun large enough to use the original style rivets, so we're just going to use some nuts and bolts to reinstall our window regulator. You can now install your rivets with a rivet gun, or if you've gone with nuts and bolts like we have, you can tighten them down with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. We'll put some white grease in the window track to help make sure our new window regulator rolls smoothly.

Reconnect your door speaker and your window motor, and send the rest of your wiring harness back through the door. Slide the back half of your window regulator back into the window track. Once the back is in, slide forward and install the front part of the regulator into the glass as well. Reconnect the door lock as well as the door handle. Don't forget to engage the lock actuator, and snap both rods back into their guides.

Realign your door panel. Reinstall your wiring harness. Make sure that all the tabs and retainers go back in their appropriate places. Make sure you run the harness through, and reconnect the door actuator as well. Lock the clasp in for your reflector, courtesy light, and reinstall the ten 7 millimeter screws around the perimeter, as well as the one 10 millimeter. Reinstall the water shield. Sometimes this adhesive doesn't really want to stick a second time, if that's the case, it's all right to put some tape on there to secure the edges.

Pull your wire harness back through the door and lay the top edge into the door frame. Line up the plastic containers and push them all back into place. Reinstall the inner door handle bezel by lining it up and snapping it in. Reinstall your reflector. Place the upper door extension into place. Reinstall the two Phillips head screws in the armrest.

Reconnect your door speaker as well as the two electrical connections on the power window switch. Slide the front hook into the door panel. Snap the back into place, and you're good to go.

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