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TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly; that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2004 Dodge Ram. This is a four-wheel drive truck, same as most 02 to 08 vehicles this generation. Tools you'll need: Various both standard and metric sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, and a pipe for some leverage, (the bolts for the hub are quite tight usually), sledge hammer if you have some problem with your rotors, a large screwdriver, small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp, penetrating oil, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
First you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise it, secure it with jack stands and then remove the wheel. I've got air tools; I'm going to use them. These are either 7/8 or 22 millimeter; both will work. The next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. Okay, in the interest of keeping this video a little bit on the short side, I'm going to just kind of go through taking the brakes apart in 3x speed. You can probably gain enough here if you don't quite know how to get them apart or if you want to see this part of the video in real time, just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes. Again, like I said, you can probably get enough to understand how to get the brakes apart just from this. Enjoy it even though it's a little quicker and then we'll get to the hub.
Now you're going to want to remove the axle. You want to remove the hub nut, which is a 35-millimeter bolt. If you're using hand tools, you will need to do this before you take the tire off. Lift the car up, take the center cap off, take the lug nuts off, take the center cap off, put the lug nuts back on, put the car back down, and then while it's on the ground use your hand tools to loosen up the nut. Then you can lift the car up. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and it helps me to zip the nut right off.
Now you want to separate the axle from the hub. You just want to use a hammer and give it one good hit. That'll tell you if the axle is free from the hub. You just hit it once and watch it really close and the axle should go right in. You won't need an axle pole or anything if that happens. You see I hit it and the axle goes in so I'm all set. Now what you want to do is get a pry bar and go way up like that. Pull your axle right off like that and your axle's out. Okay, now with the axle out there's three 18-millimeter bolts. You see one right down there, one up here, and there's one over here you can barely see. Before you actually take those bolts out, you want to disconnect your ABS sensor if you're vehicle has ABS. The connection is up there. Pull the clip out of the fender. There's a little tab that you have to press with your thumb and then disconnect it and pull it free from all the clamps that hold it to the brake hose and stuff.
We are going to use our 18-millimeter socket. Okay. Actually I'm going to loosen this. Again, be controlled with your pole. Use my pipe here. More leverage. Okay, these bolts are very tight. They also have a Loctite on them so just the combination of your 18-millimeter socket, your ratchet handle or a breaker bar, and a piece of pipe for some leverage and can get them loose. Once you have the bolts out you can actually cut them out pretty easy. Okay, wire brush. Clean everything up here a little bit. You want to feed your harness through and then the harness up, over like that, put your hub in. Prepare your bolts. Feed it through the top hole and do your best. Get the backing complete on there and then start into the hub.
Just make sure our harness is out of the way. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and just tighten this top one up a little bit. I'm not going to tighten it up. I'm just going to get it in there. Make sure it's nice and secure. Okay, I'm going to start my other two bolts and this should still be loose and moving around. I'm just going to fast forward here as I start the other two bolts and then I'll hook up my harness. Make sure you put it back into all the little grommets and clips that hold it in place so it doesn't chafe against anything. Then reconnect it and then I'll preliminarily tighten up all the bolts. The next thing you see me doing is torquing the bolts.
Now I'm going to use the torque wrench to get the top one. For the top one if you use a nice, long extension like that, loop it through from the back. Torque them to 100 foot pounds. Okay, we'll just fast forward again as I torque up the other two bolts. Now we're just going to take our axle. Put it right up in here, feed it into the hub. Turn it a little bit so you know where to push it with the hub. Push it right in. Now I'm going to take my hub nut and using my impact wrench just to get it on there, not really to tighten all the way up yet. Okay, now I'm going to grab hold of my CV joint on the inside. You go up on the top, pull your joint in as much as you can. Going on to the axle and then push it all the way on. Make sure it fits on there.
Okay, just in the interest of making this video a little bit on the shorter side, I'm just going to fast forward through putting your brakes back together. If you'd like to see this video or this part of the video in regular speed just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes and you can see this whole part of the repair being done in regular speed. Now with everything back together, put your wheel back on. Don't put the center cap back on. Thread your lug nuts on there, and then just preliminarily tighten them up and then lower your vehicle down. Your hub nut, 185 foot pounds; my poor torque wrench only goes up to 150, so there's 150 and 25. Okay now raise the vehicle back up, take the lug nuts off, put the center cap back on, and preliminarily tighten up the lug nuts. Let the vehicle back down and torque the lug nuts to a 120 foot pounds using a star pattern. Very important, you've had your brakes apart so make sure before you drive the vehicle, pump your brakes a bunch of times, make sure the brakes are working correctly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the Internet and in person.
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Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. We're going to remove all of our lug nuts and take the wheel off. Now that the wheel's off, the next thing we need to do is access to the caliper slider mounting bolts here, remove the pair. Let's go ahead and get the caliper off of here. There we are. Remove the caliper. And now you want to take a look at this area right here. This is where the piston boots are. If you see any fluid, you know the calipers is no good. Put the caliper up onto the control arm here. Now, I'm going to use a caliper depression tool that pushes back both the pistons at the same time. Awesome. Check your pistons, make sure that they're not leaking. This looks perfect. Now, we're just going to take a little bit of caliper lubricant. We're going to go right along these actual pistons here on the caliper. There we are. That looks decent. And now along all three of the ears. And let's set this aside. Now, let's remove the pads. Now, let's remove the caliper bracket by removing these two bolts. Remove the rotor. Now, we need to clean up the mating surface of the hub, so that way there when we put on a new rotor, it's going to be nice and clean.
So, now let's make our way over to a workbench so we can start cleaning up our bracket here. If you were to look at it, you're going to see these areas right here. These are your sliders. Sometimes there'll be frozen in the bracket and you'll have to work at getting them apart. Other times you can kind of grab onto it, give it a twist and separate it like that. Once you've done that, we're going to continue on by removing the boot. Take it apart. Just like that. Set it aside to its corresponding side. This one is a little sticky, but it comes right out. Slide that off as well. At this point, you want to look at your caliper sliders. Look all up along this area right here. If you see any debris or it looks like it's rusted or rotted in any way, that could, of course, cause this to not slide. So, you need to clean them both up. Let's do that now. Now that the sliders are done, let's go ahead and clean our boots. Just take a nice rag. Slide it through. Just like that. Now we'll open it up, just kind of run it like this. Just drag your hands right across it. That's going to get out the majority of the junk that's inside there. Take a nice peek. Make sure it looks like it's in good condition. Do the same to the other.
Now that we have those done, let's go ahead and put this over a nice collection bucket. Put some parts cleaner inside each of these ports. Now, let's use a nice little bore brush and clean them out. Get that out. Oh yeah, that's nasty. You might have to do that a couple of times. Now, looking along this area of the ports, you might see that there's some buildup. You need to clean that off as well. That's where the boot's gonna ride and it needs to be clean. Those look great. Let's move along to these areas right here, that's where your pads are gonna ride. There we are. Now that we have all four corners, nice and clean, let's just apply a thin coating of grease across them. This is going to help keep moisture away. Now it's going to be time to continue by lubing our sliders. Take some of that grease, go along the entire shaft of the slider ad then all the way up along that little ridge where the boot's going to ride, that's going to be very important.
Let's do the same along the ridge on the caliper bracket where the boot's going to ride. Also important. Take your slider boot, slide it onto the slider. Just like that. Give it a nice spin, that works all the grease in there. Slide it into your caliper bracket, put the boot so it's sitting on the lip all the way around, a nice spin. Clean up your mess, and then do the same to the other side. It's important to make sure you clean up the braking surface on your new rotors. Before we go ahead and put our rotor on there, let's put a little bit of copper never-seize on the hub itself. Let's get the rotor on. The next thing we need to do is get our bracket on here. To do that, you want to make sure your bolts are clean and, of course, a little bit of red thread locker on there. Start them both in and then we'll snug them up and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now, let's torque these to 130 foot-pounds. Now it's going to be time to install our pads. But before we can do that, we need to make sure that we put a little bit of lube along the ears of the pad, and then we need to install our little tins that came in the pack.
Looking at the tins, what you're going to see is they have a little ear that comes off. That ear needs to face out towards the back of the pad. Just like this. Do the same to all ears. I'll get the pads on there. As you push it in, you might notice that when you release, it tries to pull away. That's because of those tabs. Just kind of hold it in there so it can't fall. Let's grab our caliper, bring it around, slide it up on here. There we are. Two calipers slider bolts, start them both in, and then we're going to snug them up and torque them to 24 foot-pounds. Okay. Let's torque them. Let's get our wheel back on here. Start all your lug nuts on there and torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued. Okay, friends, so now all you want to do is go ahead and pump up those brakes so they're nice and firm, check your brake fluid, and then take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
