Kit Includes: (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (2) Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Drivetrain
Rear Wheel Drive
Steering / Suspension Option
with 2.48 in. Bolt Pattern Idler Arm
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Inner Tie Rod 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Idler Arm 1997-2003 Ford F-150
How to Replace Idler Arm 1997-2003 Ford F-150
Created on:
Tools used
21mm Socket
24mm Socket
32mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Brake Grease
Straight Cutters
10mm Socket
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
3/8 Inch Breaker Bar
Tools used
24mm Wrench
Hammer
Torque Wrench
13/16 Inch Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
27mm Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the five 19mm lug nuts
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod End
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut
Remove the castle nut with a 13/16" wrench
Strike the wheel knuckle with a hammer to loosen the tie rod end
Twist the tie rod end off the inner tie rod, counting how many rotations it takes to remove
3. Removing the Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Loosen the adjuster sleeve from the inner tie rod with a 24mm wrench
Twist the adjusting sleeve off the inner tie rod
4. Installing the Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Thread the wider diameter side of the adjusting sleeve onto the inner tie rod
Tighten the sleeve up to the jam nut while holding the inner tie rod in place
5. Installing the Outer Tie Rod End
Start the tie rod end into the adjuster sleeve
Turn the tie rod end in, the same number of turns it took to remove
Line up the tie rod end into the wheel knuckle
Fasten the castle nut onto the tie rod end
Line up the castle nut with the hole in the tie rod end
Feed the cotter pin through the hole
Bend the cotter pin with pliers to secure it
Tighten the jam nuts with a 27mm wrench
6. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to between 83 and 112 foot-pounds of torque in a star pattern
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
So in order to start this project you want to go ahead and loosen the wheel and the lug nuts here. We're going to use a breaker bar with a 19 millimeter socket. So next we're going to go ahead and raise and support your vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. In this case here we're using a lift to make it a little bit easier. Just go ahead and remove the lug nuts here just by using that socket because we've already loosened those. With the lug nuts removed we can now go ahead and remove the wheel and tire.
So this right here is your outer tie rod end. We have the nut here to anchor this on. This is the castle nut. Normally you would have a cotter pin through here, but this did not have it in there. So it must have rotted or fallen out. So we're going to go ahead and remove this nut off of the outer tie rod end, and we're going to use a 13/16” wrench for this here.
So in order to remove this outer tie rod end, this actually fits into a tapered hole. What we can usually do in our driveway at home is, if you use a hammer and you strike the front here, it normally causes this to pop out. So now that we have this out, you can see that this is a tapered base, and this fits tightly into the front of the steering knuckle. So when you tighten up the castle nut, it sucks it down inside and keeps it nice and tight.
We're going to go ahead and replace the adjuster sleeve right here. We want to start by removing your outer tie rod end. Ideally, you want to count the amount of threads that this comes out on, so you have full rotation of this ball joint on your tie rod end.
Okay. We're going to use a 24 millimeter and we want to go ahead and basically unthread this off of the inner tie rod end. There we go. Now, because we're just replacing the adjuster sleeve, you can leave this jam nut right here, and when you take the new adjuster sleeve, just thread it right on up to that jam nut. There we go.
This here is the old part. This here is the new part from 1A Auto. If you notice, on the old part, we have the spot right here that has a flat section so you could put your wrench on there. Our part also has that. On the installation it is important to know that each side is a different diameter. The larger is the inner tie rod end port, and the smaller one is for the outer tie rod, so you can only put it on one way. Obviously if you have the smaller port, it just won't fit.
We're just going to go ahead and thread this on. When this threads on, you're going to notice that the wrench side is closer to the tie rod on the outer tie rod, but this here was closer to the inner. It doesn't matter. It's going to work the same exact way, it's just to give you an anchoring point for your wrench. Okay, you want to just crank that right up by hand up to that jam nut.
Now that we have the adjuster sleeve installed, because we don't actually have to replace this outer tie rod end, we can go ahead and get this installed now. In this component, we did count 31 full rotations. That means for the ball joint section facing down, a full rotation, that is one. We counted 31 of those there. In case you were installing a new outer tie rod end, you would have that count. I believe that was a 31. We'll just tighten up that jam nut by hand a little bit.
Then you're ready for your installation. Install your castle nut. You would tighten this up. Line up the castle nut with the hole in the outer tie rod end there. Use your cotter pin, feed it through, and then you're going to want to bend that over using a pair of pliers. Your adjuster sleeve may come with jam nuts. If your factory equipment is just fine, there's no need to replace them. Okay, so we're going to go ahead and tighten up these jam nuts.
All right, I'm going to go ahead and reinstall the tire. I'm going to go ahead and reinstall the lug nuts here. You want to get a few threads caught on all of these here. These lug nuts are 19 millimeters. So we're just going to snug these, bottom it out. Bottom the wheel out to the rotor. We're going to lower the vehicle down onto its own weight, and then do a final torque. With the vehicle on the ground, we're going to do a final torque of the wheel which is between 83 and 112 foot pounds. We're going to do it in a star pattern. All right, just double check the first one. She's all set.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
21mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Hammer
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Hammer
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Anti-Seize Grease
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
Metal Cutters
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Straight Cutters
10mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Side Cutters
Idler Arm Puller
9/32 Inch Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Cloth Rags
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Idler Arm
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the cotter pin from the idler arm castle nut with side cutters
Loosen the castle nut with a 21mm wrench or socket and breaker bar
Remove the castle nut
Attach an idler arm puller to the idler arm
Turn the idler arm puller bolt to separate the idler arm from the steering linkage
Remove the two 21mm bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame
Pull the idler arm off the frame
2. Installing the Idler Arm
Twist the castle nut off the new idler arm
Remove the plastic cover from the new idler arm ball joint
Start the grease fitting into the frame side of the idler arm by hand
Tighten the grease fitting with a 9/32" wrench
Start the grease fitting into the ball joint side of the idler arm by hand
Tighten the grease fitting with a 9/32" wrench
Line up the idler arm on the frame
Start the top 21mm bolt into the idler arm
Start the lower 21mm bolt into the idler arm
Tighten the two 21mm bolts preliminarily
Connect the steering linkage to the idler arm
Start the castle nut onto the idler arm stud
Tighten the castle nut to 70 foot-pounds of torque
Turn the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole
Insert the cotter pin through the cotter pin hole
Bend the cotter pin to secure it
Torque the two 21mm bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame to 140 foot-pounds
Add grease to each grease fitting with a grease gun until it starts to leak
Wipe off any remaining grease
To remove the idler arm from the steering, raise and support your vehicle. Go underneath here to the castle nut and start by removing the cotter pin with some side-cutting pliers. The goal is to not cut it, but just get a hold of them and bend it until it's kind of straight. Sometimes they break off. You can kind of grab the rounded end and try to pry against it like this. Just keep readjusting it. Just pry and there you go, pull it out.
Loosen the 21 millimeter castle nut. You can use a socket and a ratchet or a wrench. This one is pretty tight, so I've switched to a breaker bar. There it is. I will switch back to my ratchet now that it's broken free. Once this is loose, take it off by hand.
This one's actually really loose and it came right now. If this was stuck on the taper, because this is tapered and it jams into the steering control rod, you would take a idler arm puller tool, place it in here and you would turn this with your wrench and it would separate the idler arm from the steering control rod, but we got lucky on this one and it slid right off.
Remove the two 21 millimeter bolts that are holding the idler arm to the frame. Use my 21 millimeter box wrench, break these free. Now that these are broken free with my 21 millimeter box wrench, I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension. Just make it go a little quicker. Got one. Now we're going to hold the idler arm with one hand, take out the last bolt. And we can pull it from the frame.
Here's our old idler arm from our vehicle. Here's our new idler arm from 1AAuto.com. The dimensions between the bolt holes are the same. Their design is a little bit different but the dimensions from here to here match up.
Before you install it, you want to remove the brand new castle nut it comes with, take off the plastic cover that protects the boot during shipping. It also comes with a new cotter pin, a new grease fitting to go down here, and a new grease fitting to go down the side of this joint here. It should make the steering feel a lot tighter on your vehicle.
Install our new grease fittings, just by hand. Take a small 9/32 inch wrench on this one. A couple turns, just so it's tight, and stop. There’s one on this side. Then reinstall the idler arm to the frame. Start with my top bolt, then the lower bolt. Install that. Use my 21 millimeter ratchet and extension, finish installing it. Stop this as it gets tight, because I will come back and torque these afterwards.
Reinstall our steering linkage. Push it up there with a new castle nut. Use a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. The torque spec on this is 56 to 84 foot-pounds, so I'm going to torque it 70. This way if you need to go more, you can, but by torquing it you should be able to seat it onto the taper. So if you turn it and the castle nut doesn't line up with the hole for the cotter pin, by giving yourself some more room on the torque number we can actually tighten this a little bit more. Just going to go maybe a quarter of a turn to get the hole to line up. Finds it nice. Grab it, bend it down and then the other one the other way. The torque for these two bolts is 126 to 169. We're going to do 140 foot-pounds. Get our torque wrench in here.
I'm going to grease these fittings. So just grease these until you start to see a bit of grease come out right here. You can actually see the boot fill up with grease. That looks nice and full, a little bit of grease coming out and then you can stop. Wipe up the excess grease, and your job is complete.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
PSA58606
In Stock
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Hector
September 9, 2020
Perfect matching parts thanks.
Thank you
Dana
April 11, 2022
I really appreciate the lady that helped me she was very helpful and made the process of sending my part back so easy
Excellent
Charles
November 9, 2022
Everything is fine ??
Great product
David
March 2, 2024
Quick shipping.. no problem with payment.Parts fit perfect. Recommend
Customer Q&A
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Customer service
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