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How To Replace Toyota Tundra Timing Belt 2002 V8 Disassemble Front of Engine PART 1 1AAuto.com

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  1. step : Disconnecting the Battery (1:49)
    • Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench
  2. step : Draining the Radiator (1:55)
    • You do not need to raise the vehicle at this point but may choose to
    • It will be necessary to raise the vehicle later on
    • Prepare a drain pan
    • As you remove parts, keep related parts together
    • Remove the 12mm bolts from the skid plate
    • Remove the skid plate
    • Remove the radiator drain plug by hand or using pliers if necessary
    • Allow the radiator to drain
  3. step : Disconnecting the Upper Radiator Hoses (2:44)
    • Remove the 10mm nuts for the engine name plate
    • Remove the name plate
    • Remove the 10mm bolt for the hose clamp
    • Using a Phillips Head screwdriver loosen the clamp between the intake hose and the air filter box
    • Use the screwdriver to disconnect the electrical connection for the filter box
    • Use the screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the throttle body side
    • Pull the filter box out of the way
    • Use pliers to loosen hose clamps
    • Slide the clamps back on the hoses
    • Remove the hoses from the radiator and inlet tube by hand
    • Loosen the clamp on the passenger side hose
    • Remove the hose by hand
    • Disconnect the flow tube by hand
  4. step : Disconnecting the Lower Radiator Hoses (4:08)
    • Remove the four 10mm bolts from the fan shroud
    • Remove four 12mm bolts from the radiator
    • Loosen the cooler line clamps with pliers
    • Disconnect the cooler lines by hand
    • Remove the lower radiator hose clamp with pliers
    • Remove the lower radiator hose by hand
  5. step : Removing the radiator and fan shroud (5:34)
    • Pull out the radiator
    • Pull out the fan shroud
  6. step : Removing the Fan (5:58)
    • Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise with a 14mm socket
    • Remove the belt by hand
    • Remove the fan pulley
    • Turn the tensioner pulley bolt clockwise with the 14mm socket to loosen it
    • Remove the tensioner pulley
  7. step : Removing the Fan Belt (6:53)
    • Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise with a 14mm socket
    • Remove the belt by hand
    • Remove the fan pulley
    • Turn the tensioner pulley bolt clockwise with the 14mm socket to loosen it
    • Remove the tensioner pulley
  8. step : Removing the Cooler Line (7:30)
    • Have a drain pan ready
    • Remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket holding the cooler line
    • Loosen the cooler line clamps with the pliers
    • Disconnect the cooler line
    • Undo the rest of the clamps
    • Remove the cooler line
  9. step : Removing the A/C Compressor (8:55)
    • Disconnect the A/C Compressor wire. This has a grey terminal
    • Undo the front bracket with a Phillips Head screwdriver
    • Remove the 12mm bolt and the 12mm nut from the reinforcement bracket
    • Remove the 14mm bolts from the A/C compressor
    • Remove the A/C Compressor
  10. step : Removing the Timing Cover (10:52)
    • Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Pull the wire up and out of its clip
    • Use the screwdriver to remove the harness clips
    • Pull the harness out of the way
    • Near the timing chain cover, unclamp the tubes
    • Pull the tubes out of the way
    • Remove the 12mm bolts from the water inlet
    • Loosen the inlet with a rubber mallet
    • Carefully pull out the inlet
    • Remove the 14mm bolt from the idler pulley
    • Remove the idler pulley
    • Remove the 12mm bolts from the center timing cover
    • Remove the 10mm bolts and the 10mm nut from the right timing cover
    • Remove the 10mm bolts from the left timing cover
    • Remove the timing covers
    • On the left side undo the wire grommet and pull the wire through
  11. step : Removing the Power Steering Pump, Alternator, and Tensioner (12:44)
    • Remove two nuts and one bolt from the power steering pump
    • Slide the pump off the stud
    • Lay the pump to the side
    • Undo the 14mm nut and the 14mm bolt from the alternator
    • Pull the alternator forward
    • Lay the alternator to the side
    • Remove the 12mm nut and the 12mm bolt for the tensioner
    • Pull the tensioner off
  12. step : Removing the Fan Pulley Assembly (13:47)
    • Remove the 12mm fasteners and the 14mm fasteners from the fan pulley assembly
    • Pull off the fan pulley assembly
  13. step : Continuing the Repair (14:01)
    • This is Part 1 of a two part video
    • Please consult Part 2 for further instructions

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

This video is part one of a multiple part series. We're going to replace the timing belt in this 2002 Toyota Tundra. In this video, we pretty much go through disassembling the front of the engine down to where you would be removing the harmonic balancer.

The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands as you have to raise and support the vehicle to get a couple things out from the bottom. You'll need a catch pan, various sockets and wrenches from 10mm to 22mm, with the most common ones being the 12mm and 14mm, pliers, screwdrivers. You'll need two 12mm wrenches for removing the fan, impact wrench or harmonic balancer tool for loosening and tightening the harmonic balancer bolts, a harmonic balancer puller, a torque wrench, and lots of room to organize your parts. As you take the parts apart, you want to lay them out basically in order, and put the hardware with them. It just makes it easier for reassembling everything.

Using a 10mm wrench, disconnect your negative battery cable. In this shot, the vehicle is upon a lift. You really don't need to do that to get the skid plate off and to drain the radiator. I just do it because it makes filming a whole lot easier. You will need to jack and support the car later to get some of the components off.

Were going to start by removing a series of 12mm bolts and taking off this skid plate. Well fast-forward it through removing those bolts, and we will use fast-forward quite a bit to try and keep this as short as possible. Okay, once you have that out of the way, your radiator drain is right here. It should just come loose with your finger tips without using a pair of pliers. Drain your radiator.

While the radiator drains, you can start removing some of the top plates. Two 10mm nuts hold the little name plate on top. Then a 10mm bolt holds that hose clamp. Use a Phillips screw driver to loosen the clamp from the intake tube to the air filter box as well as there is an electrical connection on top of the air filter box that you need to disconnect. Then, use your screwdriver to loosen the clamp for the throttle body side. Then, pull that tube up and out of the way.

Use a pair of pliers, and you pinch the clamps and slide them back off the end of the hose. Then the clamps can just stay right on the hose like that. Now, twist and pull to remove the hoses from the radiator and the inlet tube. Same procedure for the upper on the passenger side hose, you'll reach the lower. It's much easier from the bottom side of the truck.

Okay, disconnect this lower flow tube. Just squeeze with your hand. We're going to remove four bolts that hold the shroud to the radiator out here. Then over on this side, these are 10mm bolts.

Well speed through that. Just as a reminder, as you're taking these parts apart, lay them out neatly and put the hardware with them so it makes it easier to reinstall in the end.

Now, were going to remove four 12mm bolts, one there, one right down there, one there and one down there. Okay, to get to the lower ones, it's best if you have a two-inch extension. Well fast-forward here. The radiator is held in by a couple of slots and tabs, so you don't have to worry about it falling out when you remove these bolts.

There's a couple of cooler lines that were going to disconnect, one there, and one there, and also, take the lower radiator hose off. We do have a drain pan ready in case we get some transmission fluid dripping out of those lines. Fast-forward here as we remove those lines just like the upper radiator hoses. Pinch the clips, pull them back, pull them off, as well, the lower radiator hose. As you can see, some coolant does drip out, so have your catch pan ready.

Now, push your fan shroud out. Lift the radiator right up and hold it back. Grab your fan shroud. Pull it back and out. The next thing you want to do is remove the fan. Okay, filming this was almost impossible. To get the nuts off of the radiator fan, you use two 12mm wrenches. Hold one nut with one of the wrenches, and then undo three of the nuts with the other one.

Once you're down to just one bolt left, as you can see down here, I actually thread the bolt on backwards. Then, you can put a screwdriver in here and use the screwdriver to hold the assembly while you loosen the last bolt. All the nuts are off. I'm just going to shake the fan back and forth while you're pulling. Once you feel that It's loose, ease up on the pulling forward because you don't want to have it come forward too fast and hit your AC condenser too hard.

Now, with a 14mm socket and a ratchet handle or bar, you want to turn your tensioner counterclockwise. Remove the tensioner from the belt. Okay, fast-forward as I remove the belt, and then also take the fan pulley off. You want to take your same wrench and go clockwise. This bolt actually comes out opposite, so righty actually is loosey. Remove this tensioner pully. Over here, we have a pipe that goes down to the oil cooler that we're going to remove. We're going to remove that by loosening . I'm going to put the pan back under it . loosen up a clamp here.

There's a clamp right up here, and then, this clamp here, then also, a small bolt here, a 10mm bolt to loosen for a bracket that holds it.

There's another little nut here holding a bracket, 10mm. Now fast-forward here as I remove the rest of the clamps. I apologize, the camera shifts here a little bit. You can't really see what I'm doing, but I'm just removing the clamps and then removing that hose assembly the rest of the way.

Next, we want to remove the AC compressor from the engine. I didn't do a great job filming it, so I want to just go over it before I show you the footage. Basically, the AC compressor is held on by three 14mm bolts, but the top front bolt is blocked by a small bracket, and the bottom bolt is blocked by a reinforcement bracket that's held on by a 12mm bolt, and a 12mm nut. Start out by disconnecting the AC compressor. It's a gray terminal. It has a little release button. You just have to find where that button is, press it, and it should come up and off.

Next, there's a little bracket held in by a Phillips screw, so you use a large Phillips screwdriver. You may need to use a hammer, to tap on the screwdriver to loosen the screw, and then it should come out. Here, up underneath is a 12mm bolt and a 12mm nut that hold the reinforcement bracket that blocks your front lower bolt. Then, going up further back underneath and you can see, you need to lift and support the car to do this. You can see that the rear bolt and I point to it in a minute. The rear bolt for the AC compressor is right here. It's another 14mm bolt.
Just to further clarify, looking down from the bottom, you want to get to all the bolts from the bottom. You can see, we have a six-inch extension on our ratchet that goes to a socket. That's hooked on to the rear bolt right now. Ill remove the last bolt from the top here. The AC compressor just dropped down. A good idea for these parts that don't come away from the car: take all the attaching hardware and have a couple of Ziploc baggies, put them into those Ziploc baggies, and label them, again just to make reassembly that much easier.

Use a flat blade screwdriver to help you disconnect the crank position sensor. Then, you'll want to pull the wire up and out from its clip that clips it to the engine. Then, there are two more little harness clips that you just use a screwdriver to help you separate the clip. Then, pull that harness out, so that it can be moved out of the way. Then, over on the passenger side timing chain cover, there's just a little clip that holds a couple of tubes. Undo the clip, pull those tubes out of there.

Now, you want to remove this water inlet. 12mm bolts. Use a rubber mallet to loosen it up a little bit. You just want to carefully try and pull it as straight out as possible. Your idler pulley is held in by a 14mm bolt. Go ahead and remove that. Here, I'm undoing the 12mm bolts that hold my center cover on, my timing bolt cover. Then, three 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut right in the center that hold my right-hand or passenger side timing cover on.

To the other side, driver side or left-hand side, there are four 10mm bolts that hold the cover on. The nut you already removed, it was holding that tube on. It was one of the nuts holding the bracket of the tube. Then, when you pull it off, you have to pull the wire through. Pull the grommet out and free the wire. Now, on the passenger side or right side of the engine, you're going to want to remove the power steering pump. You're just removing the pump from the engine, you're not disconnecting it. There are three nuts or two nuts and a bolt that you can access right to the holes in the pulley.

Then, once you have the bolts and nuts off, the pump just pulls off. You pull it pretty firmly right up and off the stud, and lay it down to the side. Then, same thing for the alternator, there is a 14mm nut and a 14mm bolt down below. Remove those, pull it forward and just lay it down to the side. Then, there are two additional 12mm nuts, or, I think a nut and a bolt for your tensioner, so you want to remove those. Then, you can pull the tensioner right off.

It looks like we're really starting to make some headway here. Now, were going to remove the bracket assembly or the fan pulley assembly. It's got two 12mm fasteners, and then two 14mm fasteners. At this point, we've got basically, the front end of the engine taken apart. I'm going to end this video for now. To see the continuation, just check out part two.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Tools needed for replacement:

    Air Powered Tools

  • 1/2 Inch Air Impact Gun

  • General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Floor Jack
  • Drain Pan

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Slip-Joint Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 15mm Socket
  • 12mm Socket
  • 17mm Socket
  • 11mm Socket
  • 18mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket
  • 13mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket
  • 20mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket
  • 16mm Socket
  • 21mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Harmonic Balancer Holding Tool
  • Harmonic Balancer Puller

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 21mm wrench
  • 13mm Wrench
  • 10mm Wrench
  • 14mm Wrench
  • 16mm Wrench
  • 12mm Wrench
  • 19mm Wrench
  • 17mm Wrench
  • 18mm Wrench
  • 22mm Wrench
  • 11mm Wrench
  • 15mm Wrench

1998 - 2000  Lexus  GS400
1998 - 2000  Lexus  LS400
2001 - 2006  Lexus  LS430
2001 - 2007  Lexus  GS430
2002 - 2010  Lexus  SC430
1998 - 2007  Lexus  LX470
2001 - 2009  Toyota  Sequoia
2003 - 2009  Lexus  GX470
1998 - 2007  Toyota  Land Cruiser
2000 - 2009  Toyota  Tundra
2003 - 2009  Toyota  4Runner
1998 - 2000  Lexus  SC400
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