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How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 2000-06 GMC Yukon

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Created on: 2020-05-01

This video shows you how to install a new lower control arm from TRQ made specifically to fit your 2000-06 GMC Yukon 1500.

Take the center cap off, use a straight blade screwdriver. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Pull the wheel off. Now I'm gonna use a pole jack or a screw jack and just support the lower control arm right here. Just raise it up a little bit. I'm gonna take the sway bar link out. You can use a 14-millimeter wrench up top and 14-millimeter socket underneath. Loosen this up. And if you're gonna reuse this, just try to keep it all together the best you can. These bushings are gonna fall off. Here we go.

Now I'm gonna disconnect the lower shock bolt. Use a 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt side and 21-millimeter socket. Take the nut off, right there. And you might have to adjust the control arm to get the bolt out, just like that. I'm gonna use a 36-millimeter socket. Take this axle nut off and take the washer off as well. Just wanna make sure the axle is loose from the wheel bearing. Just take a punch, go to tap. That's loose, so that's good. Before we take this axle off, just mark it so that you put it back together, put it in the exact same location that you had it. Now use a 15-millimeter socket. Take these bolts out. All right. Just take a hammer, give it a tap and just separate this. Slide this down. You should be able to slide the axle right up.

We're gonna loosen up the tension on the torsion bar. We wanna take this keyway out. To take this bolt out, you want to put this back where it was when you go to put this back together. You may still have to adjust it, but at least you can get a baseline. So what you can do is just take a socket and mark it. And loosen this up. As you loosen it, just count your turns. All right. So the tension's completely off of the keyway. Now the bolt's just in this piece right here. So I'm just gonna take it out the rest of the way. I got about 14 or 15 turns out of it. That's good.

All right. So some of the tension's off that torsion bar. I'm just gonna take this screw jack, pull jack, loosen this up. I might need to put that back up, but for right now, just leave it down. Now we need to remove this adjuster bracket. You need this special tool to do this job. What you're gonna do is there's a hole on top here where this part of the tool is gonna go into that hole. And then this is gonna push up on the keyway. Right there. So we'll tighten that up. And once it's raised up just enough, then we can push that bracket out of the way. All right. And just be careful. And pull that out. Once you pull that out, we can loosen up on the tool. Lower the keyway. And remove the tool.

All right. I'm just gonna take some rust penetrant, soak this down. Let it soak for a little while, right there. All the tension's off of that. Also on the lower control arm, right there. And on the other side. I'm gonna take a punch and there's a hole right here on the backside and just use a hammer and just try to punch the torsion bar out. There we go. That pops up and this keyway slides right down like that. This bar can just hang out right here until we take those bolts out. But before we do that, we're gonna take the ball joints off. Just use a little rust penetrant. It's a little bit rusty. Take a 24-millimeter socket, remove this nut.

There's many different front-end tools you can try to use. There's some clamps that go around here and push up on the ball joint. You can take a hammer and try to break it free that way or take a pickle fork, which is what I'm gonna do. There we go. I'm gonna take a 15/16 wrench and put it on the nut right here and then use a 18-millimeter socket. Loosen this bolt up here. I'll leave the bolt in there. Just take the nut off first and then take this nut off as well, this bolt out. There is a washer on the end of those. Take the washer off. Now, just make sure you support these controls arms or just don't be underneath them when you take these bolts out. Take that bolt out. And take those bolts out. All right. And slide this up. And you can slide the arm off the torsion bar. Slide it out of your way.

Take this grease fitting and just thread it in place to the top part of the ball joint. Take a 7-millimeter wrench and just snug it up. All right. Take the control arm, slide it over the torsion bar, go all the way through. And I'll start by lining the ball joint up and then try to position the control arm. Yeah. And take that dead blow hammer, try to hammer it in place. And take the bolt, get that bolt started. Just use a pry bar and just try to line this up. And those are both good. Put the ball joint nut on. And we'll tighten this up. And use a torque wrench and torque this to 74 foot-pounds.

Now put the washer on the bolt that goes right there and then the nut, get the nut started. And same on this back one. And then I'm gonna raise this control arm up before I tighten these bolts and nuts down. You want this control arm to be as close to ride height as possible. What is advised is putting this whole thing back together, having it on the ground and when the ride height is level, then you torque these, but that's very hard to do, so we're gonna do the best we can right now. And we're gonna torque these to 129 foot-pounds.

All right. Just lower the screw jack and take the keyway. Slide it in position and slide the torsion bar back through just like that. All right. Take the tool, put it in position. And you can tighten it up. All right. That's good. And put this bracket in. And we can loosen up on the tool. And remove the tool and put the bolt in. And before we tighten this up, I'm actually gonna attach the shock bolt. All right. Now we'll just use a screw jack. Get that lined up, get a tap, and put the nut on, and then torque this to 59 foot-pounds.

All right. Now I'm just gonna lower the screw jack down. All right. Tale the CV shafts and line it up. And just make sure you line up your paint marks. Get the bolt started. And then I'm just gonna snug these up first. I'm gonna start on this side and then rotate it 180 degrees. Tighten this one up and then just go around, snug them all down. To prevent the axle from spinning, just put a pry bar in between here. And I can use a torque wrench and torque these bolts to 58 foot-pounds. Take the washer, put the washer on, put the nut on. I'm using a pry bar and go in between the lug nuts so it doesn't spin when you go to tighten this. And torque this to 177 foot-pounds.

All right. We're gonna take the link, get the link lined up. Slide that in underneath. And get the top pushing on. All right. Now we'll tighten this up. And then we can torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Good. And take a grease gun and just push it on the grease fitting. Just give it a couple pumps. It's a good idea to watch the boot. And once you see the boot moving, then that should be enough. Now we can tighten up this bolt for the height adjuster. Make sure you count how many turns when you tighten it back up. If you took it out 20 turns, put it back to 20 to get at least a baseline, and then you can adjust accordingly. Put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Install the center cap.

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