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How to Install Fog Light Kit Upgrade 06-08 Honda Civic

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  1. step : Disconnecting the Battery (0:58)
    • Disconnect the negative terminal with a 10mm wrench
  2. step : Removing the Bumper Cover (1:14)
    • Pop out the clips from the lower splash shield
    • Remove the Phillips head screw from the opening in the splash shield
    • Remove the push clips from the plastic air guide in the engine compartment
    • Pull the air guide out of the engine compartment
    • Remove the T35 Torx on the grille bolts from the brace
    • Pull the bumper cover out of its clips
    • Pull the bumper cover off of the car
  3. step : Removing the Fog Light Cut Out (5:20)
    • Place tape around the interior sides next to the grille
    • Place a push pin into the center of bulls eye markers on the back of the bumper cover
    • Drill a hole through the bulls eye with a 1/4 inch drill bit
    • Drill a hole through the bulls eye with a 1/4 inch drill bit
    • Cut along the molded line with a hacksaw
    • Remove the bumper cutout
    • Cut off the edge of highest and lowest side wall on the grille with a box cutter
  4. step : Installing the Fog Light (9:30)
    • L is driver side
    • R is passenger side
    • Place the bracket mount onto the fog light
    • Place the bracket mounts to each fog light
    • Tighten the Phillips screws to the fog light
    • Insert the fog light into the bumper
    • Make sure the adjustment bracket does not touch the plastic
    • Cut out more of the bumper cover if necessary
    • Tighten the Phillips screws to the bracket
    • Place the corresponding trim cover to the light
    • Tighten the two Phillips screws to the fog light cover
  5. step : Wiring the Lights (18:41)
    • Insert the wire behind the radiator support and behind the condenser to the other side
    • Wire tie the wire to the brace
    • Bring the wire up behind the headlight past the battery
    • Pry out the clips from the wheel well
    • Pull the wheel well down
    • Run the wiring harness through the wheel well
    • Wire-tie the wiring harness through the wheel well
    • Pry the grommet out of the body
    • Punch a hole through the grommet with a pick
    • Push the wiring through the grommet
    • Insert the wiring and grommet into the body
    • Insert the wheel well into place
    • Press the clips into the wheel well
    • Bundle the wiring next to the horn
    • Connect the relay by the battery
    • Mount the on the 10mm bolt by the radiator support
    • Place a ground underneath the bolt
    • Loosen the positive battery terminal
    • Tighten the positive lead to the positive terminal
    • Bundle and wire tie the positive and negative wires to the wiring next to the horn
    • Wrap up the wires with electrical tape
    • Strip the wire with a wire stripping tool
    • Connect add-a-fuse with a butt connector
    • Wrap electrical tape around the butt connector
  6. step : Installing the Switch Plate (31:12)
    • Pull off the lower dash
    • Remove the Phillips screw from the upper dash
    • Pop the upper trim off of the dash
    • Disconnect the cruise control connector
    • Remove the three Phillips head screws from the pocket
    • Remove the pocket from the dash
    • Press the switch bezel into place
    • Tighten the three Phillips screws to the bezel
    • Press the upper dash panel into place
    • Connect the cruise control connector
    • Tighten the Phillips screw to the upper trim
    • Connect the red wire with the butt connector to the wire inserted through the fender
    • Zip tie an excess wire
    • Remove the fuse from spot 37
    • Insert the add-a-fuse into place
    • Connect the ground wire to the bolt in the fuse panel
    • Run excess wire into the dash opening
    • Press the switch into place
    • Connect the wiring harness to the switch
    • Press the extra caps into the switch plate
  7. step : Reinstalling the Bumper Cover (41:19)
    • Connect the fog light wiring harness
    • Hang the bumper up into place
    • Press the bumper into the brackets
    • Remove the tape from the bumper cover
    • Tighten the Phillips screws to the fender
    • Tighten the Phillips screws to the bracket
    • Insert the air guide into place
    • Press the clips to the guide
    • Press the clips to the bumper
  8. step : Reconnecting the Negative Battery Terminal (45:32)
    • Tighten the negative terminal with a 10mm wrench

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

This is our fog light kit for the 2006 to 2008 Honda Civic. It comes with the wiring harness to go with the fog lights, wiring harness to go to the switch. It comes with the fog light surrounds, all the brackets, a relay that goes with the wiring, the switch, screws for installation, extra switch panels and block off plates and the tie wraps. Of course, the fog lights themselves with bulbs and detailed instructions. We're also doing it here in the video for you.

You can start by disconnecting the negative terminal. It's 10-millimeter on this one. Loosen it up. It doesn't take much. Put that aside. To remove the front bumper, you can do this on the ground. We have it up in the air, so you can see what we're doing. You need to come under here and pop out all of these clips. These are holding on the front bumper. A couple back here, over here. You've got to look for all these clips. Some of yours might be missing or broken, but you want to take those out first before you go up top to start to remove the bumper.

We're going to use a clip removal tool. That's actually supposed to go under the clip. Pry it down. Pull that clip out. Go on and do the same for all of them. Sometimes they get stuck with dirt. You might need a smaller, thinner screwdriver. It's stuck, bound up with dirt. Pop them out. Go along and do this for the whole bumper. Pull the last one out of here. Your bumper is loose at the bottom. Go up top and finish removing it. This Phillips head screw inside this opening here in the splash, remove that. Repeat this for the other side.

We're going to remove this plastic air guide in the engine compartment. It's got some push clips. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to work those up. I'm going to use my trim tool. Pop them out. The same for the other one. This is actually clipped underneath this little piece of trim. Pull it up, pop it out. Do the same on this side. Pull it up and pop that pin out. Push it this way a little bit. Lift that up. It's got a lip that's pushed into the grille. Pull out. Pull this trim out. I need to pull that clip out. I'm going to pop this one up, so I can move this trim a little better. Just need to slide it over like that.

Then we're going to pull this out from behind the grille. Slide it up and off of the hood latch. Flex it off. Spray a little rust penetrant on these. These are T35 torx. Break them free. Do this for the one on the other side. With all the bolts and clips removed from the bumper, you should be able to pull it out of the clips that it snaps into. It snaps into just like that into these brackets. You're going to pull it out. It's going to sound like it's breaking, but it's really just breaking free of the clips. I'm going to pop it like that. Do the same for the other side.

Reach your hand in here. Give it a swift tug and pop it right off. Then we can put this aside. To avoid scratching the bumper, we're going to apply some masking tape to the outside. Do this to both sides below this grille because we need to drill some holes and cut out some of this plastic backing. We're going to repeat that for the other side. On the inside of the bumper is this premolded bullseye. It's a circle with crosshairs in it. There are eight of these around the edge here. Those are basically just markers.

You're going to take a standard push pin. You probably have these laying around your house. We're going to push it into the opening here. You don't have to worry about pushing these all the way through. You pretty much want to make a slightly larger hole for yourself because we're going to come back and use a drill to open these up. We're going to go around and make a nice opening. You're going to do this to the other side too. We're going to show you basically one side. This is the driver side. The passenger side will be identical. Repeat all these steps. Some of these are hard to see. You got to look for them.

You could use a small hole saw to open these up. If you don't have access to a hole saw, you can use something like this which is a 1/4 inch drill bit. I'm going to open these up. The goal is to get holes large enough to get this hacksaw blade in there, so we can cut this open. Since it won't fit into this 1/4 inch hole that I started with we're going to move up to a half inch drill bit. Our saw will fit in there. Cool. Now you can see there's a molded line. It traces the outline, follows the outer edges of where these drill holes are.

Now we need to take our saw and cut out along there. There's our bumper piece cut out. We're going to take a utility knife, carefully cut this little notch of plastic out. I scored it, and I bent it over. Same thing up here. As you can see, we cut this out. It doesn't look great because the edges are kind of rough. That's okay, because the trim piece that comes in the kit will eventually fit over it like this and hide all that.

Now we're going to install the light. Now we're going to install the lights and the brackets. Just be aware that these are marked with a little R for right hand side or passenger side and L for driver's side. The brackets are also marked. There's a little R for the passenger side. Again, an R on this one here for the passenger side. There's an also an R under this set screw here for adjustment. The same, there's L marked on these brackets. This bracket mounts on this side. There's actually a little alignment pin, so that will go like that. We get that one roughly in place. Then I'm going to start with this opening here and step screw.

The fog light housing is threaded. I'm going to start with my fingers. Phillips head screwdriver, I'll snug it up. Don't want to get too tight because I want to get this one lined up. This bracket can actually move on this little adjuster. Get it lined up and on the pin. Hold it in place. Take this small machine screw with the washer in here. I can't quite reach it with my finger, so I'll use the Phillips head screwdriver. Steady the bracket on the threads. Tighten it down. I can see it's got a lock washer on it. I'm going to tighten it.

There's a little lock washer. I can actually see the lock washer start to crush down as I tighten it. Once I feel it get tight, that's where I'm going to stop. Now go back to this one and snug this one up. I'm not going to kill it. I want to tighten it till it gets snug. That feels good there. There's a shoulder on the bolt, so that this bracket is not going to sit flat and flush. You can adjust the aim of these by turning this knob. If you can't turn it by hand, you can use a Phillips head screwdriver.

Basically, what that does is allows the fog lamp to pivot on the brackets. We'll set the adjustment after they're installed. That is how you adjust them. We'll do the same and install this bracket. This bracket installs the same way, but it has this one shoulder bolt. Snug this down. Extra 1/4 turn. That's good. That will fit loose. That's okay.

You can put this screw in, and the bracket is pretty loose. Your little rubber grommets actually go over the screw. They'll sit on the shoulder part of it. Thread this in. It'll keep the bracket from bouncing around so much. Just like that.

Now working inside our bumper. Place our fog light and brackets in here. It's going to sit nicely on these little four mounting pins. Then we're going to use these four self-tapping screws. Get this one started. Phillips head screwdriver. Get started. Then I can line up the other one. Repeat this for all of them. As I was installing this bracket and fog lamp assembly, I noticed that the adjustment bracket is touching the bumper plastic.

I didn't open up that part of the bumper enough when I cut this out. I'm going to mark it with my utility knife. I'm going to take out the fog lamp assembly. I'll just trim it back out because what will happen when we go to adjust this fog light aim. The bracket is going to hit, and I won't be able to adjust it. You want to double check that and make sure you enough clearance before you get this altogether. Otherwise, you won't be able to adjust the fog lamp. That fits nicely with enough clearance.

Now you can turn this knob here either in or out. You can adjust it up or down, or you can use a Phillips head screwdriver. That's adjusting it and turning it to the right. Adjusting it down and turning it to the left, adjust it up. You see we've got our fog lighting here, but we don't have the trim cover around it yet. Trim covers are marked right and left. There's a little L right here. The other side will say R for right. This is the driver's side. It's going to fit like this. Slide it in place. Roll it over.

To connect the trim piece to the bracket, we're going to use these larger step screws, Phillips head, get them lined up. Just going to tighten it down until it stops. Do the same for the other one. On the other side we use one of the self-tapping screws. It doesn't go through here. You actually have to sneak it in from in here, and get it into the opening, and then put your Phillips head screwdriver in the opening through the bracket. It'll hold the trim from the outside. Then I'm going to screw this self-tapping screw into here. I can feel it pulling the trim into the bumper. Right there it feels good.

We'll roll our bumper over. We can see one fog light is installed in the driver side. You're going to repeat that for the passenger side, same exact steps. We'll run our passenger side part of the harness along the bolt behind the condenser. Carefully, pull it down and feed it through. The extra, we'll take a cable tie and tie it together. I'll trim this here. We can actually take the extra cable tie through this little opening in the body.

We're going to take our fuse end and the connector where the relay goes and our ground cable. We'll feed it up behind the headlamp. I can see the coolant overflow bottle there. Reach up. I'll grab it next to the battery. Pull that up. We've already got the wheel off here. We need to run the harness to go inside the body. A couple of these push clips are missing. They look just like this. We're going to pop them out with a clip tool. This one here.

With a small flat-bladed screwdriver, pry these out. Pry out the middle. It should unlock them. Use a clip tool. We can slide this down and out. Get the last clip down here. We'll let this hang down. Now we get access under here. This is going to get run up and around. This can actually run up along the top on the fender liner here. I'll put a little zip tie around the hood cable. Run this up along the fender. Put the cable tie on the hood cable. The grommet here in the body.

Take a flat-bladed screwdriver and pop that out. It goes right in the body. I feel like it was in backwards. It was sticking out this way. We need to make a hole in this grommet, and we'll pull the wire through. Just going to use a pick and a flat surface to poke it through. Take a ream and push it in there. Open up the hole a bit.

Take our connector and push it through just like that. Goes up inside the body. Leave that in and push it right in like that. You can actually pull the slack back like that. Put our fender liner back in place. Line it up, push it in the opening. Then push it in to lock it. Repeat that for all the clips. Wiring harness. I'm going to run a cable tie through this little opening in the body here. That's plenty into our fog lights. Snip this off.

The main power cable, untangle it. Also run this up towards the battery. Plug in our relay. I'm going to mount it. There's a small 10-millimeter bolt right there. It needs a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench to get to this. The clearances are tight. Put right there. Just going to slide this down. Get that started. You could run this ground directly to the battery negative terminal, or you can run it to a bolt that's on the body. This one that's under here will work. You want to go under the plastic though. We'll tighten that back down.

Get this tightened down. The relay is there right next to it. This is the fuse. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to get inside here. Unlock it. We need to replace that. That's a 15-amp fuse in there. It comes with one in the kit. Put that back there. This is the positive terminal. That's going to provide power to the fog lights directly from the battery. Take a 12-millimeter wrench. Loosen this up.

Put our eyelet right on the battery terminal. Reinstall the nut. Tighten it back up. Now I want to take this extra. I'm going to run it down around the battery. I'll pull the rest back down. We're going to feed it back down. You can actually feed some of this back into the wiring loom. That's pretty good for the most part. I'm going to take it and loop it around. The cable tie, I'll loop it around. I'll take our cable tie and trim it. This can live down here. Now I'm going to wrap this up with some electrical tape.

One thing you will have to add to this kit is a fuse tap or an add-a-fuse, as some people call it. This is so that we can hook our power wire for the relay into the fuse panel. It does come pre-stripped, but I'm going to remove some of the insulation, so I can get a nice crimp on it in this bud connector, use our wire stripping tool. Twist this together. Bud connector. Clip it down. Give it a little tug to make sure it worked. Just going to take a little bit of electrical tape, just wrap it around this. You shouldn't see any moisture. Just relieve a little bit of the stress of the wire going into the bud connector.

We're going to install this switch plate here where this pocket was. To get to this, we have to pull this trim down from the dash. This clips into place. We've got to find the clips. Pull it to the back. It's got all these clips. You'll pull it straight out and put that aside. Easiest way to get to the screws that are holding this pocket in is to pop this trim around the dashboard cluster out.

There's also an electrical connector that's going to the cruise control buttons. There's a single screw right here, the Phillips head screw. Remove that. We'll put that screw aside. We want to lower the steering column. Unlock it. Pull it down as far as it will go. Lock it back in place. Reach up, and it's actually on the top of this pocket. You got to reach up and behind. The lock for it is right on the top. Push the lock in on the connector and pull it out. Now it's the connector that's going to these cruise control wires. There are push clips holding this in. The one on the edge here. It's actually easiest to start on this side. You can actually push it up and gently work it around. It will want to be connected to this piece too, but if you hold this piece and pull on the part that's above the cluster. Pop it out. You're trying to get it over these air vents. Work that out.

Here we can see our pocket. There's the buttons for the cruise control where the electrical connector sits. There are three Phillips heads screws holding this pocket in. We're going to remove them and replace our pocket with the little switch bezel. We're going to reuse these screws. Put them aside. There's one little tab here that's locking it in place. Just going to pull it down. Pop it out. There's a tab on the top. It's hard to see because it's hidden by these buttons. Take that screw out.

We'll take our new switch bezel piece. It only goes one way. Line up the same screw holes. Push it down, so it grabs that top tab clip. That's the bottom one snapped into the top one. Add our screws back into secure it. You're just going into plastic, so once they get tight you can stop. That switch bezel is now installed.

This can go back in the car. Slide it over the column. You need to push it beyond the heater ducts right here. Line it up like that. Snap it all back into place. Put your steering column back up. That's locked into place. Don't forget to hook back up your cruise control, or else it won't work. It should be easier to reach it now you don't have the pocket it in the way. It snaps and locks into place.

Reinstall this screw. It goes under here. We have our supplied wiring harness here. This red wire with the female bullet connector is going to connect to the wire that came from the engine compartment that we put through the fender over here. Adjust myself. Hold it. I'm going to use these needle nose pliers to hold the wire because I can't get my hand in here. Hold it steady. I want to push this connector over it like that and then push the insulator over it like that.

Untangle this harness. You have a lot of extra wire, plenty of extra to run it where you need to run it. I'm going to coil up some of this extra. I'll use a cable tie. There's a ground. Then our fuse tap is going to go into, according to the instructions, fuse spot 37. I will pull that out using some needle nose pliers. This car uses micro fuses. Our fuse tap is for mini fuses. It has the same width, but they're just not as tall.

You could get a fuse tap this is for micro fuses. We're going to use what we had on hand, which is for minis. If you do this, you'll have to have the correct size fuse, so seven and a half amps in a mini style to go in here. Snap in place. Our fuse tap will slide in here like that. No need to add our ground wire. We're going to ground it right to this 10-millimeter bolt on the side of the fuse panel. Just going to use a deep socket instead of a short extension on the ratchet. You don't have to take it all the way out. Just loosen it.

Let's see. Go this way with it, underneath. Tighten it back down. Now run our wires up and out of the way. Just slide them up. There's some space here inside this dash opening. This is the wire for our switch. Just feed that up. There are three openings you could put the switch in. I'm going to pick the one closest to the steering wheel. The switch can push in from the front like that, but it can also go in upside down.

It should go with the fog light symbol facing towards the outside of the car, those little lines pointing down. Before I push it in, I'm going to run the harness up, and we'll plug it in. It's going to plug in. It only goes in one way. It's keyed. Lock. Then we'll push it in here. I can run the wires up, extra wire. Put it inside the dash here. There are caps that come with this. If you have nothing to put into these openings, you can put these block off caps that will just push into place like that.

Reinstall this lower trim. Push into the clips. Reinstall our bumper. Plug in your fog lights. There's that one. Cover here. Same for this one. We can hang our bumper up. Push it back into the brackets. Put that back into place. Do the same for the other side like that. We can take our tape off. Pull that all into place, so the fender liner is in the inside of the bumper here.

It's okay if that pops back out. Just pop that back in. Now the bumper is clicked into place. You can reinstall the screws and all the clips. Reinstall the self-tapping screws. Hold the end of the bumper on. Repeat that for the other side. Reinstall these screws. Reinstall this air guide. It's flexible, so just going to slide it up and over. You're going to fit it over these little rubber bump stops. These tabs actually go underneath the fender.

Then this lip goes behind the grille. We can flex it into place like that. Bend this up. Slide this over. Fold this up. It goes like that. Do the same for the other side. Put this in. Push it in. Put this over. Put this under the plastic trim. Reinstall the clip that was here. Reinstall the clip that was on this side. Repeat that for the other side. Reinstall these push clips. Do the same for both sides. Close the hood. Replace all the push clips.

Go along the bumper and reinstall all your push clips. Reconnect the negative terminal in the battery. Tighten it up. We'll turn our headlights on and our fog lights. When you turn the lights on. The key has to be on. The switch does light up.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    Drills, Drill Bits & Related

  • Drill

  • General Tools

  • Utility Knife
  • Pick

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Electrical Tape
  • Wire Ties
  • Painter's Tape

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Wire End Cutters
  • Side Cutters
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Wire Cutters

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 12mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T35 Torx Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 10mm Wrench
  • 12mm Wrench

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