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How to Install Fog Light Kit 10-12 Nissan Altima

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  1. step : Removing the Front Bumper Cover (0:25)
    • Remove the pins along the top of the protective shield and the bumper cover with a trim tool
    • Remove the 10mm bolt from the bumper in the fender well on each side
    • Remove the 7mm bolts from the splash shield
    • Pry up the push clips from the splash shield
    • Remove the Phillips screws along the bottom of each side of the bumper cover
    • Pry out each side of the bumper cover
    • Lift the bumper cover up and off
  2. step : Mounting the Fog Light Housing Into the Bumper Cover (5:57)
    • Remove the 10 mm bolt securing the fog light opening cap
    • Remove the fog light opening cap by pulling it straight away from the mounting clip
    • Install the fog light housing so that the upper bolt hole and the lower mounting clip align
    • Reinstall the 10 mm bolt to secure the fog light housing to the bumper cover
    • For easier testing, leave the other fog light housing unmounted for now
  3. step : Removing the Accessory Switch Panel Blank (7:55)
    • Pry off the driver side dash end cap
    • Remove the small access door below the accessory switch panel
    • Remove the phillips screw below the accessory switch panel
    • Pull free the lower dash panel that includes the accessory switch panel
    • Press the retaining tab to remove the accessory switch panel blank
  4. step : Removing the Battery (10:12)
    • Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10 mm wrench and tuck it away to prevent it accidentally connecting with the battery
    • Disconnect and remove the positive battery terminal with a 10 mm wrench
    • Remove the 10 mm bolt from the top end of the battery tie down bracket
    • Remove the 10 mm nuts on either end of the battery tie down
    • Remove the battery tie down J-hooks
    • Remove the battery
  5. step : Removing the Intake Air Filter (15:42)
    • Remove the two 10 mm bolts securing the air intake duct
    • Remove the air intake duct
    • Release the air filter box retaining clips
    • Remove the air filter box lid and air filter
    • Remove the mass air flow sensor electrical connector
    • Loosen the 8 mm worm clamp to remove the intake hose behind the air filter box
    • Pry off the wire retaining clips from the air filter box
    • Remove the 10 mm bolt at the rear driver side corner of the air filter box
    • Lift the air filter box straight up and out
  6. step : Removing the Lower Dash Panel (19:28)
    • Remove the Phillips screw securing the OBD2 connector to the lower dash panel
    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the accessory switch panel to the lower dash panel
    • Disconnect the electrical connector going to the item in the leftmost switch position, if equipped
    • Set aside the lower dash panel
  7. step : Removing the Driver Side Fender Liner (20:44)
    • Remove the two Phillips screws at the rear lower corner of the fender liner
    • Remove the push pin retainer that secures the fender liner to the underside of the body
    • Remove the push pin retainer at the right of the strut
    • Remove the two push pin retainers at the top of the fender liner
    • Remove the push pin retainer at the left of the strut
    • Remove the fender liner
  8. step : Routing the Fog Light Switch Wiring (23:18)
    • Remove the tape at the end of the hood release cable boot
    • Insert a small screwdriver into the boot opening
    • Attach a wire tie to the end of the fog light switch wiring and fold the wire ends over
    • Cover the wire tie and the wire ends with electrical tape
    • Add grease or other lubricant to the taped area
    • Pull out the hood release cable boot
    • Pass enough of the wire tie through the hood release cable boot to reach the battery and fuse box
    • Insert enough of the electrical connector end of the switch wiring into the vehicle to reach the accessory switch panel
    • Replace the hood release cable boot
    • Pass the wire tie end of the wiring into the engine compartment following the path of the hood release switch
  9. step : Routing the Fog Light Housing Wiring (31:07)
    • Fold the wiring harness in half so that the end with the negative terminal is aligned to the end with the positive terminal, fuse, and relay
    • Tape the wiring harness together to keep the wiring neat
    • Route the end with only a fog light housing connector to the passenger side fog light
    • Route the positive, negative, fuse and relay ends to reach the battery
    • Route the other fog light housing connector to the driver side fog light
    • Follow the existing wiring harness to cross the front of the engine compartment
    • For the fog light assembly connectors, allow the wire to hang below the bumper to provide enough length
    • Set the remaining wiring ends to the side of the battery compartment
    • Use wire ties to secure the wiring harness where it crosses the engine compartment
  10. step : Reinstalling the Intake Air Filter (38:27)
    • Reinstall the air filter box by inserting the outlet into the hose, and seating the two bottom studs in the mounting rubbers
    • Tighten the 8 mm hose clamp
    • Reconnect the wiring retaining clips into the air filter box
    • Reconnect the mass air flow sensor electrical connector
    • Reinstall the 10 mm bolt securing the air filter box
    • Reinstall the air filter and air filter box cover by inserting the lower tabs first and closing it so the locking tabs engage
    • Reinstall the air intake duct into the air filter box
    • Replace the two 10 mm bolts securing the air intake duct
  11. step : Reinstalling the Battery (47:37)
    • Lower the battery into position making sure not to accidentally contact the terminals
    • Tighten the positive cable onto the terminal using a 10 mm wrench
    • Replace the battery tie down J-hooks if they were removed or fell out
    • Replace the battery tie down onto the J-hooks
    • Replace the two 10 mm nuts onto the J-hooks
    • Reconnect the battery tie down bracket with the 10 mm bolt
    • Tighten the negative cable onto the terminal using a 10 mm wrench
    • Tighten the positive cable onto the terminal using a 10 mm wrench
  12. step : Connecting the Fog Light Wiring (52:05)
    • Remove the electrical tape and wire tie from the fog light switch wiring
    • Remove the headlight low beam fuse from the fuse box
    • Insert the removed fuse into one slot on the fuse jumper
    • Insert the fuse jumper into the headlight low beam fuse position
    • Strip the switch wiring outer insulation to separate the red wire
    • Route the red wire following the main harness into the fuse box
    • Connect the red wire to the crimp end of the fuse jumper
    • Crimp the connection, and cover it with electrical tape
    • Insert a fuse for the fog lights into the second slot on the fuse jumper
    • Connect the ground from the switch wiring to the ground cable on the battery
    • Connect the yellow wire from the switch to the yellow wire of the fog light housing wiring and cover it with electrical tape
    • Insert the fog light switch into the open slot on the accessory switch panel
    • Connect the fog light switch electrical connector
    • Connect the fog light assembly wiring negative to the battery
    • Connect the fog light assembly wiring positive to the battery
    • Connect the fog light electrical connector to the unmounted fog light
    • Test the connections
    • Turn on the vehicle power and turn on the fog light switch. The fog lights should not turn on until the headlights turn on.
    • Turn off the headlights. The fog lights should turn off with the headlights, even with the fog light switch turned on.
    • After a successful test of the fog lights, secure the relay and any other loose wires with wire ties
    • Wrap and tuck any excess wire as desired
  13. step : Reinstalling the Accessory Switch Panel (1:20:32)
    • Reinstall the OBD2 Connector to the lower dash panel with the Phillips screw
    • Reinstall the key slot to the lower dash panel with the one Phillips screw in the rear
    • Reinstall the accessory switch panel and secure it with the two Phillips screws
    • Reconnect the electrical connector to the leftmost position in the accessory switch panel, if equipped
    • Reconnect the fog light switch electrical connector
    • Reinstall the lower dash panel by pressing in the mounting clips
    • Replace the Phillips screw securing the lower dash panel
    • Replace the driver side dash end cap
  14. step : Reinstalling the Fender Liner (1:25:50)
    • Hold the fender liner into place
    • Secure the fender with the removed push pin retainers
    • Reinstall the two Phillips screws at the bottom rear corner of the fender lining
  15. If you left a fog light unmounted for testing, refer back to step 2 to mount the other fog light, if necessary.

  16. step : Reinstalling the Bumper Cover (1:28:47)
    • Lift the bumper cover up into place
    • Press the cover in on each side
    • Connect the fog light electrical connector on each side
    • Tighten the Phillips screws along the bottom of each side of the bumper cover
    • Lift the splash shield into place
    • Press in the push clips to the splash shield
    • Tighten the 7mm bolts to the splash shield
    • Tighten the 10mm bolt to the bumper in the fender well on each side
    • Press in the pins along the top of the protective shield and bumper cover

Hey friends, it's Len at 1A Auto. Today we're going to be working on a 2010 Nissan Altima. I want to show you a very simple job, we're going to replacing the fog light assemblies. It's going to be very easy, I want to be the guy shows you how to do it. If you need these or any other parts, you can always check into 1Aauto.com. Thanks. All right, so we're going to start removing this bumper cover. It's going to be very simple. I'm going to guide you through it. We're going to start at the top. Since we're already still on the ground, we're going to remove a couple of these pins right here, here, here, here, here and here. Then we'll continue on to the next steps. You'll need a couple of basic tools. You might need all or any of these tools, but here we go. Start with a little forky looking one, stick it under here, pry it up. We'll put it someplace safe where we won't lose it.

Continue on along the line. Sometimes these might break. It happens, you can replace it if you want. Find that later. Move along here, I'm just going to pry up on this a little bit. I can use my fork again. I'm just going to pop it up. These right here called push clips. So what happens is the center pulls up, and it disengages the lock. When you go to put this back in, you push the bottom part in first, plug the hole, then you shove this in and it spreads this and locks it in. Put that aside so we don't lose it. We're going to continue down the line. Just get it started. Use our little fork device here, lift up on that push pin. We're going to continue along, see if we can get under it and onto the next. Just give it a little tug. Make sure that we got them all out. It's possible to miss one. It happens, it's human nature to make mistakes.

I think we're good to move on to the next step, which will be raising the vehicle up a little bit so we can get a look at what's underneath. See what else is holding it on. So one thing that I did want to mention, even though we just finished taking all these out, we'll just put one more in real quick. We'll leave it in there until we've got everything else unattached so when we're underneath the vehicle, we don't have to worry about it coming down and hurting us. So I like to take note that there is a mounting bolt for the bumper cover right under here. It's a simple 10 millimeter head. You can use this ratchet and socket if you want, or a ratchet wrench, whatever you're into. 10 millimeter. We can go ahead and turn that counterclockwise to reverse it out. Once we get this completely out, we'll go over the other side of the vehicle, and we're moving that one the same way. Here's what it looks like. We'll put that safely aside so we don't lose it, and off we go.

Next, we're going to go ahead and remove our seven millimeter head bolts right here. They come across, and they'll come across here if the rest of the splash shield was here. So you can use a ratchet or if you happen to have a little electric gun, that would work as well. Once we get all these off, we can go ahead and remove the push clips, get this right out of the way and we can get going on removing the rest of this bumper. You can put a little downward force on it if you want, making sure you're wearing safety glasses in case anything comes falling down. Here we are. I think something fell down. Now we're clear to start removing these push clips, same as the top and just pull out the top end of it and then the bottom should come out as well. Can use our screwdrivers that we were using before. Want to find a little divot.

Just want to get to pry it up a little bit, so we can grab it with our other tool there so we can continue with our little hook tool if we want, or we can go ahead and use some cutters. You might find it easier to just grab onto it with some cutters and pull it out. Grab on. You don't need to squeeze too hard, we're not trying to cut it. Just break it free, making sure you hold the splash shield so it doesn't fall down and hit you in the face. We're going to do the same for the other one. Come over and grab it with our cutters, nice and light. Break it free, separate it. That's okay. Just going to pull down. Now we're clear to put these back together, and we'll set them aside so we don't lose them. Now we're going to take our Phillips head screwdriver or whatever you might have, but it's a Phillips head on this. We're going to reverse all these bolts out or screws, it's going to come right along here.

We don't need to worry about those, but right here, right here, right here, and then it should come free. Then we'll go back up top and will dislodge it, and it should come right off. Last one, these removed. We're just going to give it a little shake. Okay. I don't want to take it completely off. All right, now we're clear to get back up to the top. We'll take out that one last pin that I showed you leaving in, and this should come right off. So we're back up top to our last pin that we pressed in there. We're going to do just like we did before and break free. Like that. At this point, once we get this out, the bumper cover might come loose, so you want to make sure you have it secured. Just lift this up and out, and put it over here. Grab onto it, should come free. Now we've successfully removed our bumper cover. So we've got our bumper cover off. Now we have full access to everything. You don't have to have the bumper cover off, for the purpose of this video, I'm going to do it so you can see.

We have a bolt here. There's one on each of these, so there's one on the other side as well. It's a 10 millimeter, so we can take our ratchet and a socket. We're going to turn it counterclockwise. I sprayed these down ahead of time. It's always a good idea to use some sort of penetrant. Let's get that out, that's what the bolt looks like. Next we're going to hold onto our bumper cover. We're just going to pull it. We can remove that piece, here we are. What we're going to notice is this matches up with that. That hole matches up with this hole. It should be fairly simple as long as the clip's still here, we can go ahead and slide that in. Let's double check. This should line up with that hole, like that. Get in the clip down on the bottom. You might have to push a little bit. That's okay. Just take a look. Line up that top hole. We'll go ahead and put in this bolt again, just snug it up. You don't need to go too tight. It feels like it's getting snug.

Like I said, we don't need to go very tight. We don't want to break any plastic, and now we've installed our fog light assembly. To complete this process, you just do the same for the other side. As you can tell, there's a very big difference between one side and the other. This is going to be a great upgrade for your visibility driving down the road, quality upgrade. All right, so where I would like to put the switch will be right here. This is a removable plastic piece. You remove it from the inside out. So first what we're going to do is we're going to use a trim tool. Whatever you might have access to, you can use a small screwdriver if you're not worried about chiseling up your dash. Just pop this off. Now we're going to remove a screw that's located right here. There might be a little piece that covers this. This application doesn't have it for some reason right now, so I'm just going to find a place that I can fit this in.

Give it a little tweak, remove that. Next we're going to remove the Phillips head screw that's right down here. Might be a little hard to see with the camera. We're going to turn that to the left. I'm going to come in. All right, there is wiring attached to the back of this, so when you go to remove it, you don't want to keep going. Just pull it away, so you can see what's going on back there. Grab onto whatever's available to you. Make sure you're not going to cut yourself or hurt yourself in any way. Give it a little tug. Now we can see the wiring back here. You can check to see if there's a wiring harness for the fog light assemblies that might be in a wiring diagram. We'll take a look for that, but here's where I was talking about. Right here there's a couple of little push pins, we can push in on that little pin, and it should be able to pop out that one little unit.

If I had a pocket screwdriver, I would use that, but since this is what I have in my hand and I'm here, I'm just going to try doing this. I'm going to push, and I'm pushing on the back side. See if I can get it up. Seems like it wants to come. Let's see if I can get it out. There we are. Now assuming this is still mounted on here, you'll notice where our fog lights switch will be. It's very accessible, so you can turn on your headlights. Still a little dark view, if you're driving in fog, whatever it might be. We'll push the button and it should be all set, spark up those fog lights. So even though this model, the type S Altima comes with the fog light assembly wiring harness already installed. It doesn't have the switch unit up inside, we've already determined that. What I'm going to do is we're going to pretend that this doesn't exist. Just in case that for your particular model it doesn't or it does, but this is corroded. I'm going to show you how to install the wiring harness.

Now we've installed our fog light assemblies into our bumper. Now we're going to take out the wiring harness. We're going to check all the connections. You can see that it comes with the connections for the fog lights. That's great, brand new. It comes with the connections for the battery, positive, negative. This right here goes to this wiring harness right here in this green, plugs into your switch which we're going to put inside the dash. It's all going to be very simple. It also comes with a little extra wiring in case you happen to need that which we may, we'll see, and a little in line splicer basically. You're going to find a wire that has key power, and you're going to splice this right in with this. Maybe not this wire, but probably this one right here, and that'll give you key power to power this all up. You might need something else, something along the lines of this. That's for a different application. For what we're going to use, we're just going to go with what we've got and so we'll go from there.

Now it's time to remove the battery, it's going to be very simple. What we're going to do is we're going to make sure that we're wearing safety glasses, and hand protection. You don't want battery acid on your hands, skin, eyes especially. If any of that happens, make sure you wash it off immediately. It says right on the caps. So what we're going to do is we're going to start with the negative terminal. You don't want to start with the positive, because if you're turning this off and you happen to touch something metal like this, that might ground it out. You're going to arc it, you could have major issues so we'll skip right past that. Don't touch the positive until you remove the negative. We're going to turn the nut, which is a 10 millimeter nut. Counterclockwise, we'll loosen it up. It feels loose enough. I'll work that off. I'm going to move it right away, see if I can get it so it's not going to come bouncing up and touch that negative.

Now at this point, you can do whatever you want with the positive. It's not going to do anything. It's still a good habit not to just purposely do it, so I'm not going to show you. Now I'm going to remove the positive. I'm just going to give this a couple turns. Should want to come free. It's still seems a little tight, you can loosen it up some more. We'll remove that, try to move it aside. It might not move very far out of the side, and it's okay if it touches up against here at this point, because we have this removed so it's not going to create arcing. If you didn't remove this, and you're going like this with the positive, it's going to arc, arc, arc, arc, arc. You're probably going to blow this fuse right here. It's fairly simple to replace, but let's not even deal with that. Negative first then the positive. We've got that removed. Next we're going to move on to the mounting of the battery.

There's a couple of different things you need to look at here. There's one right here on this side, it's just a 10 millimeter nut. You're going to need a deep socket obviously, or you can use a wrench if you got all day. We can come over here, there's another nut right here. You're just going to loosen this up. You don't need to take this one all the way off. Just to say you don't need to take this one all the way off either. Just bring it up, get it nice and loose. This one up, nice and loose. This one you can do the same thing. Get it nice and loose. You should be able to move them around. Lastly, there's one more bolt right on the backside here. Comes through and this helps mount your PCM to your battery mounting area here. I don't know why they put it there, but whatever. This one right here I'm going to remove all the way, my 10 millimeter socket. This is great because it's 10, 10, 10, 10. You get a 10, and you get a 10. Everybody gets a 10. It's a good day.

We'll remove that completely, and we'll set it someplace where it won't get lost. That's what it looks like. Put it up with my wrench. Next, I'm just going to move along the line here. You can do it in whichever way you want to do it. Just come along the line. I might have these loose enough. This one's going to move around a little bit. Let's see. What I'm going to do is I'm going to just loosen this up all the way. See if it gives me a little bit more room to work. You're going to hear a little piece fall in there. It's okay. Once we get the battery up and out of the way, we can find it and I'll show you what it looks like. It's very large, so you don't have to worry about losing it. There's the nut, 10 millimeter like I said. We can lift that up. This one right here, if you wanted to and this wasn't here, you could just move it out of the way.

What I'm going to do is I'm just going to loosen this up completely off, and then we can get this all right out of the way. Let me grab that nut, put it right aside with the other one. They're both the same. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. This bracket comes off right out of the way. All this right here is corrosion. You can see it on my glove. That's the importance of wearing a glove, not getting it on your skin. You leave this on your skin for too long, you're going to notice a rashy burn. It's going to start to hurt after a while. The longer you wait, the more of a skin irritation you're going to get, and it could cause health issues down the line. So you could wash this down if you have some sort of garden hose, or whatever your preference. I'm going to move along. Now I'm going to grab onto this handle. If you don't have a handle, you can also grab onto to pretty much anywhere.

Want to make sure these caps are nice and tight. If they look like they're popping up a little bit, you can just give them a little bonk. You want to make sure that those are secure, because we're going to have to tip the battery a little bit. If you tip the battery and these are lifted up, you might get a little bit of battery acid on your skin. That's very dangerous. If it happens, make sure you clean it off and consult a physician. We'll put this right up and out of the way, and now we've removed our battery. We're going to go ahead and remove this air duct that goes to the intake. It's going to be very simple. One bolt here, one bolt there, 10 millimeter heads or Phillips head. Go with the 10 six point if you can. Use what you got at hand though. We're just going to turn that counterclockwise to remove it, show you what it looks like. There it is. We're going to do the same for the other side real quick.

Set that aside where we won't lose it. I'm going to bonk my socket on there. There's a second one, same as the other one. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. Put our ratchet aside. We can grab ahold of this, lift it up and out. Now we're clear to move on, and you've taken off this part. We're going to move along. Remove these two clips, so we can take off the air filter housing. While you're in here, if you want to take a look at the air filter, it's up to you. We're not going to worry about removing it, but you just pull it right out. Next we're going to remove this housing. There's going to be a 10 millimeter bolt down there. You're going to need an extension with a 10 millimeter and a ratchet, or an air tool if you have one. We're going to remove this right here. It's very simple. We're going to squeeze this, see if we can wiggle it. I say simple, but it's going to act up on me. Here we are, we'll take a look.

This is your mass airflow sensor. It's a very delicate piece of machinery. If you need to remove that, which we don't need to for the purposes of this video, it's just a Phillips head screwdriver. We're going to squeeze those two clips with some long pliers. Get that out of the way, and this right here is an eight millimeter. I'll grab those tools and we'll get going on it. Okay, got all our tools, I'm going to start by removing this wire right here. I'm going to use my long nose pliers, needle nose, call them what you want. Wiggle it, that out of the way. Do the same for this clip down here. Squeeze those two tabs, see if I can get it worked out. It doesn't want to play nice, just keep on battling. We live for the fight, don't we? Come on baby. There it is. We'll get that right out of the way.

All right, now we can go ahead and remove this right here. It's just a clamp. We're going to use an eight millimeter socket. I'm going to turn it counterclockwise. Might need to hold the socket, it gets loose easy enough. If you don't want to use a socket, you can also use a flat head screwdriver. It's all preference. Tightening it back up. I would definitely use a socket so you can make sure you get a good enough grip to lock it in tight. We're going to move on down to this bolt down here. It's a 10 millimeter head. We're going to use a long extension with our 10 millimeter. Let me see if I can get my head down here. I'm going to remove that bolt completely, feels nice and loose. Yeah, okay. I'm going see if I can get my hand down in there. Try to grab that bolt without losing it. There it is, nice and easy. Looks about the same as the other two. If it's not, we can just set it aside a little different.

We should be able to grasp onto this and wiggle it around. See if there's anything else holding it in. Come on, baby. Now we've successfully removed our air intake system. All right, so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to come back inside. We're going to remove this panel. First thing I want to do is I want to take off the emission's connector. Since it's on the outside, it's easier for me to just start here. Simple Phillips head, turning to the left. Put that screw aside. That's free. Now we're going to come around to the other side of this. Take a little bit of finagling, I don't want to pull on any wires too much. I don't want any tugs. There's going to be three Phillips head screws. There's one here, one here, and you can see this right here. Basically on the backside there's another one. Using the same Phillips head screwdriver, I'm going to go ahead and remove those.

The reason for removing this is basically because I want to just get this giant plastic panel out of our way, so we can get our heads underneath the dash. One more connector here. Just squeeze it. It's got a little tab, squeeze it, pull it off and let that hang down. We'll get this plastic right out of the way. Now we can get our heads under here. We don't have anything hanging down, and we can try to poke some wires through the firewall. So I took the wheel off for video purposes so we can all get in here and take a look. What I'm going to do is I'm going to remove this fender cover. It's very simple. There's just going to be a couple of screws, Phillips head. There's going to be some push clips. They're all going to come out fairly easy, so we have some basic tools. I'm going to go ahead and remove the Phillips head screws first. There's two of them on this particular application. There might be a couple more coming up and around. Looks like there should be one here. It doesn't have one right now.

Just take a peek around, see what you see for your application. Screws are both the same. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. Take a flat screwdriver. There's going to be another push clip underneath here, right there. Wearing our safety glasses in case anything flies out, pry it right off. Use our little fork. Pull up the push clip. Now we're going to take a look around, see what other ones we can find like a little Easter egg hunt. Got one right here, just going to try to pry under it. My little fork, grab another one. Looks like it's about the same as the first, so we'll just keep on going around taking a look. Got one right here, mark it crayon. That's good. Some of them come out easy, some of them come out hard. That one came out. Keep working our way around. We'll just make sure we get all these out so we can remove this fender flare, or inner fender well cover I guess. It's getting ready to come free. We're going to remove the last one here.

Grab my little tool holding onto the flare cover, or inner fender cover. You should be able to pull it out. That's successfully removed. Now we can see all in here, got a rubber boot here, you can possibly use that. What I like to do is see if I can chase this. This is the hood release cable. Looks like it comes right here. We could probably poke a little hole right there to run our wires through, and then we'll make sure we seal it up. Now it would probably be the easiest way to run these fog lights. We'll just run the wiring right along this cable, we'll zip tie it in so it's nice and secure with the cable, and it should be good to go. So I'm taking a closer look. It looks like this is taped. I'm going to try to remove this tape, see if I can finagle something in between there and see how much room we can get. We might be able to run our wires right through there without having to rip the boot. That would be optimal and then we'll just tape it up. We'll move on from there.

I got the tape off. I'm going to try using a small screwdriver, you can use whatever you've got. Punch, peck, whatever. Go right along the cable being careful not dig into it. I don't want to cut that open. I'm just going to go right in between the cable and the rubber. See if I can work it in. If you have a little bit of lubricant, you could try using that. That might be helpful. It feels like we might be able to get right in that way. So this is the way that I'm going to recommend running the wiring. Like I said, we'll mount it right to the cable so it's secure and that should be easy peasy. So to run this wire through, we're going to prep it first. We're going to go from the inside of the vehicle, and run it through. The reasoning for that is because it would be hard to push this from the outside in. The side's going to be a little smaller. We're going to do a little trick here. It's going to be fun. We're going to have a little fun.

We're going to fold these over like that. So they're about the same. Use little zip tie or wire tie, whatever you want to call it. Sorry, just make a little loop. If it falls off, it's okay. It's easy right? Put it right back through. We're going to tighten that up. Feels pretty good. We want to make sure we have plenty of slack, because I want to be able to tape this. I'm going to take tape, I'm going to go here all the way down. I'm going to get this nice and tight so it can't come apart, and it's going to make a nice area for us to push this through. The little rubber grommet that we just saw and it's going pull right through. I'll even use a little bit of silicone, that will make it slide right in. So that's all we're going to do. It's going to be very simple and yeah, let's do it. I'll just start at the zip tie. I'm going to work my way to the opposite end.

I'm starting at the zip tie because that's the side we're going to be pushing from, pulling from I guess. Anyway, it's the side that's going to be starting the action. I'm just going to go, continue. I'm going to do this all the way, so I cover it. Just go ahead and rip that off, and that's the way it's going to go through from the inside. Here's the rubber grommet. I'm just going to try to get it, force it through, force it through as far as I can get it. Then I'm going to come back out here. I'm going to find this zip tie, and I'm going to slowly pull it through the rubber grommet just like this. I don't want to go too far, because I want to make sure they have plenty of slack up there to do what I need to do, and then we'll continue on from there. It's going to be easy peasy. So I'm just going to use a little bit of lubricant. Just going to go at the beginning area of where it's going to go through.

You can even do the zip tie if you want, but that might be a nightmare trying to grab onto it. You don't need to do all the tape and all that stuff because as it's going through, it's going to get to the lube. The lube is going to stay, get in between it and the rubber and it'll just keep going where it needs to go. So I can put some on, and that's that. All right. So instead of going through this direction, like what we were originally going to do, it might've worked. Let's do it a little easier. What's come through, I'm going to take a small screwdriver or whatever you have access to, we're going to get in between this rubber boot and the body right down there. Try to push it through. Now I'm just going to see if I can pull it through. Basically, we want to just get the boot out of the firewall, and careful not to rip it if possible. Sometimes it can be a fighter. Here we go. Now we're wide out in the open. We can take our wiring harness, right?

This is the inside, goes to our switch. So what we're going to do is we're going to come through with the part that we made. Our little zip tie doodad, possibly a little bit of extra work than what we had to do, but we'll see. You can see it coming through the boot. Let me see if I can grab onto this and pull it through, being careful not to punch myself in the face doing it. It's going to be tight. That's okay. Just grab our screwdriver again, this takes a little bit of work. What in life's easy these days, right? As you can tell, the thick part where all the wire and everything was is trying to get through the hole now. It's going to be a little bit of a fighter. Just going to try to see if I can course it through, that's the reason partially for the zip tie. Here we are, and we've got the cable going through the boot. It looks pretty nice. We didn't poke any holes. We can double check it, make sure if we did, we seal it right up. That looks great.

So now what we're going to do, we're going to take our cable, we're going to carefully put it through the hole. Try to make it so it goes down, it might want to go up, but if you can get it so it goes down, that'll be helpful for you when you're inside. If you don't, I'm sure when you're under the dash you can find it. So we'll just push as much of this through as we can. We're not sure how much exactly we need, because we're going to need to go up to the dash where I showed you we want to put it. It's probably just about enough. If not, I'm sure we can figure it out. We'll just give it a little tag, so I'm going to take the rest of this. Okay, that's right about there. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to try to put the boot back into the hole. It's going to take a little bit of work because as you could tell, the fat end is supposed to be on the inside.

So we're going to get the boot back down to about where it touches up against the firewall of the vehicle. We can use our small screwdriver that I just found. I'm going to start it. I'm going to start it on the top, but you can start wherever you want. Try to get that fat part inside the firewall without poking a hole in our boot. Now we're just going to work our way around the whole thing. We'll just try and get the whole base inside the firewall. Once it's through, we can go ahead and pull the thing back through and we should be good to go. Okay, so I'm going to go with from the outside, this cable out of my face. From the outside, I started the lip around the top and I'm just going to use my small screwdriver. I'm going to try to get the last bit of it in there. It might be difficult to do, very difficult to see, but that's the plan. Now we've got that installed.

We can come along here, and we're just going to run our cable, or our wires right along the hood cable and right up to the battery area. Should be good to go. Like I said, we're just going to follow this hood cable, come straight up along here. So I'll do the same thing with our little zip tie wire set up. I'm just going to bring it up there. Before I use any wire ties to zip this in so it's secure, we're going to make sure that we have enough slack up at the top where it's supposed to go to the battery. Also we have enough slack where it's supposed to go to our switch, so we can move along from here. No, a wired mess. Whatever shall we do. Don't worry, I have a treasure map. We have ourselves a little diagram here, shows the basics of everything. From here we can figure it out. To me personally, the best ground on the vehicle is right to the negative battery terminal. The black wire right here is meant to go onto the ground, so we're going to make sure that this goes over to the negative battery terminal.

We have a red wire, this goes to the positive. It's very simple. Red's hot, right? We have our fuse and our relay, so this is all going to stay over by the battery. Like I said, we want to have that ground over by the battery as well. So what we're going to do is we're going to do a little bit of backtracking with this wiring, it's going to go from one side over to the other. We're going to drop down the line for the fog light assembly down into the bumper, and then we're going to come back across and we'll hook this back up. It should be a very simple process, and we'll get it done. Here we go. Okay. I grabbed a little bit of electrical tape. As I mentioned, we're going to fold this wiring harness right in half side. The side that has the one little connector left, this is going to be for the passenger side fog light. So we can come this way if you want and picture it this way.

We have all of our electrical connections all on one side of the vehicle, which has all the electrical components. We have our wiring that comes through that we just ran, so we can take this off and we can hook that up when we get to that point. As for now, I'm going to take a little bit of my electrical tape. I'm just going to wrap all this up. You don't have to do the whole line. You could do a couple of strips here, strip, strip, strip. Come down and then like I said before, we're going to follow this wiring harness. We'll use a couple wire ties. It's going to be very simple, so let's get this going. Little bit of electrical tape. Just blast it on there. That won't come apart, we'll come down a little bit. If you wanted to use a whole roll of electrical tape and go down this line, you can do that. For my sake, I don't have 1 million bucks. I'm just going to keep going. I'll give it a couple inches.

You could also use wire loom if you have something like that, that would come in handy. Like that. Let's keep moving down the line. Might look a little bit like a mess right now. I promise it'll look okay by the time we're done. So now we've got it all taped up. Basically I just went across, I gave a couple of good spots where it holds it in. I think it should be fine. We're going to take all of our power type stuff. We've got our fuse relay connectors, so I'm going to go on the battery side. We'll just lay it over here. I'm going to take the connector for the passenger side fog lamp, and I'm going to follow this cable right here. This is going to come right across. It's a wiring harness, Nissan knew the way that they wanted to run wiring harnesses. They figured it safe that way, so we'll just follow their lead. Go right along that, making sure if we feel a snag, we just fix it. We don't want to talk too hard. Give our wiring a tug.

So we'll notice the wiring comes down now, I don't know if you could see it, but it comes down this way. I'm going to follow that. Just like I had mentioned, I don't need to go over any heater hoses. Might be easier that way. We'll just try to pay attention, work smarter. Now I'm going to try to bring it down, see if I can get it behind that headlamp assembly. Hopefully it's here. There it is. Found you. If I was to guess, this would be approximately where that head fog lamp would be, so that looks good right there. We'll leave that and back up here. We're not going to use any wire ties yet. We want to make sure everything matches up. I've got my other fog lamp assembly wiring harness. We're going to do essentially the same thing. We're going to continue following this, comes over here and then I'm just going to dive right off and I'm going to go down. Why not? You do you booboo. Here we go. Let's see if I can find it under there. There we are. That was nice.

Now what we're left with is our power type wires, our fuse, our relay, everything's up here. It doesn't look like as much of a mess. Still a little bit of a mess. It's going to get straightened out, I promise. So we know we've got everything running across. We've got plenty of slack over there for our fog lamp to be assembled. I've got plenty of slack over here for our fog lamp, so we can grab some wire ties. We'll start wire tying this and so it's secured, then we're going to go ahead and we're going to install the intake. All those parts, get the battery in here so we know where everything's going to be sitting, and I'm going to show you how to do that. Got one of my zip ties. I'm going to come down here, I'm going to get my hand out of the way in one second. Okay. I've got a couple of clicks, so what I'm doing is I'm just wire tying the stuff that we just ran alongside the stuff that was already there. The wiring harness that was already there.

You can make this pretty tight. It doesn't have to be too crazy tight, but tight is good. We'll cut that off in a minute, but we're going to continue down the line making sure that we don't leave any big, we don't want anything like this hanging off, especially touching on the exhaust or making its way into the fan motor. So we're just going to keep it nice and snug. We're going to come right along this. If you felt the need, you could run a little bit of electrical tape. I don't personally feel the need. I feel as though these wire ties will work just as well, and it's going to be underneath the intake. So if you're worried about your friends who are in your car looking pretty and all that stuff, it's all going to be hidden. Don't you worry. How's that? Love it. Starting to look better already, isn't it? So now we can go ahead and snip these off. It's your preference. You can leave them on if you think it looks cool. I don't. I'm going to cut them off, and we'll go from there.

Just using some basic cutters here, nothing special. You can you scissors, pocket knife, razor blade, whatever you got. There we go. Let's move on. So now I'm going to take our mess, I like things neat. I'm just going to put it down in here. This gives us plenty of uninterrupted area to work. We can get the battery in and do anything we need to do. We've got our other little cable here, and set that aside as well. So here we go. Nice open area. Let's get some work done. All right, so now we have our air box. This is the inside portion of it, has the mass airflow sensor. You want to make sure that there's no debris inside here. When you had it laid down on the ground, maybe some wind came by, blew some dust or dirt. Looks fairly clean, not too worried about it. Something I like to mention is there's these little tips right here. They can get stuck.

I'm going to try and push him into the rubber bushings that are down here, there's one there, there's one over here. It can be a tight fit. If you have a little bit of silicone or any type of lubricant, you can even use a little bit of spray if you have a penetrant. Basically we just want this to be able to slide in nice and easy. Okay, I'm going to come over here. We want this hose to go on this right here. We want to be very careful for this. This is the mass airflow sensor, it's a very sensitive equipment. Break it, you bought it as they say, it's your car. So I'm just going to line up those little tips with the holes. I'm going to get this hose approximately where it needs to go, and that should make the rear. Yeah. Okay. Now when you're pushing down, you might notice the hose doesn't want to go on right. It's okay. There's a little lip right there. There we are. You want to make sure that that hose is all the way around.

If it's not completely on, you're going to get air, dirt, water, anything sucked past this, which is where your air cleaner's going to be. It's going to go right into your engine. That's bad news for your engine. Engines are expensive. So we can move along. If you want, you can go ahead and tighten down this clamp now so you don't forget. It's an eight millimeter or a flat head screwdriver. I like to use an eight millimeter so I know I get it tight. You can start out with a screwdriver if you want, if that's easier for you. Eight millimeter by finger here. You remember that there was a 10 millimeter mounting bolt on this when we were removing it, we had to use an extension with a 10 millimeter, so we can have that ready. Something else we want to pay attention to his wiring harnesses. If you took it off, put it back. There's a reason for it being the way that it was. Just going to go right in here.

It's going to go right in here, and this is going to go right in here. We checked it on the way out. We'll double check it now. Make sure no dirt got in there. Listen for the click. We are locked. We're going to take our little bolt, 10 millimeter with extension. You don't have to have it on the ratchet yet if you don't want to. Might be easier to start with a knot, and try to get my hand down here. Here we are, so I got it in the hole. If it doesn't seem like it wants to line up, you can always just wiggle it. Feels like it's going good for me. Lucky Len, it's what I say. Feels nice and snug. You don't need to grip onto it, snug. Now we can move on to putting on our air filter housing. This is the part that has the air filter mounted into it, so we're going to go ahead. We're going to line these little whatever pits-ons, I guess we'll say.

I'll put these holes, should go in fairly easily. We're going to keep our fingers crossed for me. If it doesn't seem like it's in there, it's probably not in right. That felt good. Push it down, push it down, give it a little wiggle. If the bottom isn't in and you wiggle it, it should lift right up. In that case, unclip these. Do it again. This is fine. I got a little bit of dirt in there. That's what I was warning you about before. Got a little crack on there too. That's something, I wouldn't worry about that too much. If it was on this side of the housing, you would want to worry. This side isn't a big deal, because it's just the air inlet. Dirty air is coming in through this. It's going to come through our tube in through this, so you don't have to worry about it. Now we've got our air inlet duct. It's very simple, light not very heavy. We're just going to put this in here.

We're going to line up this hole with that, this hole with this. We've got our two bolts that we took out. If you want to use a little bit of penetrant or lubricant, you can do that. For the purpose of this application, I'm not going to worry about it. Just get that in there. It should settle in nice and easy. That feels good. I know what you're thinking. You spent all that time making your wiring look pretty up underneath there, now it's hidden and gone. What are you going to do? Now you can watch the video. You can see it again, so anyway, we'll use our 10 you don't need this long extension, but it's all in there. We're just going to tighten this one all the way down. Do the same for this one. That feels good. Now we can move on to the next step. All right. Now before we install a battery, whether it's old like this one or even a new one, the new ones have a coating on them. The old ones just have corrosion.

We're going to use one of these tools. You can pick them up anywhere. So what we're going to do is we're going to put the terminal end inside here with all these bristles, we're just going to spin it. Try and get it nice and scuffed up. If that doesn't look scuffed up enough for you, then go ahead and do it some more. Whatever you want to do, it's your preference. It looks better than it did. Go ahead and hit this one, this is the positive. Once again, you want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses, hand protection, any of this white stuff right here is no good for you or even where the gunk is. So that looks a lot better than it did. You can keep going if you want. For the purpose of this application, I'm not going to worry too much about it. Next, we're going to move on to cleaning up the terminals. So I'll get this out of the way. Same tool. Generally speaking, the same tool.

You can just take off the cap and you can use the inside wire brush. You'll notice inside here, see some funny colors. Funny colors are bad. You want it to look clean. Let's get rid of those colors. Well I got chunks coming out of here. We just do this a little bit, we'll take a peek in a second. Looks a little better than it did. As I'm doing this, it's creating a lot of dust. I'm breathing it in, especially since I'm talking. I'm going to try not to, but I have to talk. Still a little bit of green, we'll keep going. Here we are, that looks much better. A little bit of green in there. If you wanted to, you can go ahead and replace this. That's a story for another day. I'm going to move over. I'm going to do the positive terminal end. Pretty much the same thing. Take a peek. I can see where the green is. We want to make sure anywhere that the battery terminal connects with this terminal end, it's going to be nice and clean, as clean as we can get it.

All right, so now it's time to go ahead and mount back in the battery. So I'm going to grab the battery. I'm going to put it in. When I get it in, I'm going to make sure that either neither, or at least especially both of the terminals do not touch at the same time onto the battery terminals. It's going to be almost impossible to make it so this positive doesn't touch. That's okay. As long as the negative does not touch the negative battery terminal on the battery. Being careful of our wiring. Something that I'd like to mention also is you want to make sure that these caps are down as far as they can go. If they're popped up quite a bit, which is very possible, you can go ahead and you can knock them down using the backside of a screwdriver or whatever you might have. Basically the reason for that is because you don't want the battery acid venting out, or coming out getting on your hands, God forbid, or into your eyes even worse. You can see there's warnings.

Also, we're going to be taking this battery to get it into this application or into this model vehicle. We're going to have to tip it quite a bit. So if these are popped up, you're going to have an issue. So I'm going to go ahead and hold it like this. I'm going to tip it and bring it down and in. Should slide right in. Like I said, the positive is going to be touching almost. It is what it is, but the negative is definitely clear. We don't want both of these touching at the same time. We can go ahead and mount this on. We'll use a 10 millimeter wrench. You'll be tightening this, which would be clockwise. From your perspective it might look like it's counterclockwise, but if you're standing from this angle looking at it, it will be turning to the right. It's nice and snug. We can go ahead and tighten on this negative, but we're going to wait on that.

Now we're going to do the bracket, so we have two of these little hooks, little J hooks. Basically inside the battery holder, there's going to be two holes. There's going to be one on this side, and one on the other side. This one you can see is still in, so that's not too big of an issue. This side, you might have to look down in. If you need to, you can move the battery a little bit. I'm just going to take it down, and the hole for this is right along this side. I can lift up on it. It's locked in. So now while I'm holding that, I can take my bracket. I'm going to slide it underneath the handle. Some people like to go over the handle. You can do that if you want. You do your booboo. I'm going on under. Now I'm going to grab one of my 10 millimeter head nuts.

I'm going to start it on there, I'm going to get it on as tight as I can by fingers or by hand. If I can even get it started, I'm going to turn a little to the left to see if I can grab at the red. There we are. The reason why I want to get this down as far as I can, is so hopefully that hook doesn't fall out on me when I'm trying to do the rest of it. So I'm turning clockwise to the right. That feels like it should be fairly decent. Now I can grab this J hook, I'm going to do the same thing. I'm going to put it through the hole. Another one of these nuts, you always want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses and gloves. Safety is key at 1A Auto. I'm going to hold this up, and I'm just going to keep tightening it down, and making sure that I don't wait until my finger is completely crushed under there.

I can even hold it over here if I want. The reason why I'm holding it up as to apply pressure on the backside of that nut. Feels like it's getting a little snug. I'm just basically want it snug enough so these aren't going to come loose on us while we're moving things around. We're going to come over here, I'm going to give this one a couple. We want this to be as flat as we can with the battery. Okay, that feels pretty good for now. We're going to leave it a little loose. We're going to move on to our next part of our bracket, which holds on the PCM. I don't know why they mount it along the battery, that's up to them. I'm not an engineer. That's okay. We're going to go ahead and put it in this bolt. We don't need to tighten it yet. We're going to continue tightening the rest now.

All right, so now we've got all these tightened up. I made sure the nuts were all tight. All three. We get the bolt right there. Everything's safe and secure. We can go ahead and make sure that the key is off on the vehicle, and we can go ahead and put this on. You might hear a little bit of an arcing. You don't want to get scared and take it back off, and then put it on and off and on and off and on and off and on. Just one time. Just slip it on there. Easy peasy. We're going to take our 10 millimeter wrench. We'll tighten this up and if you have some sort of battery protector, you can put that on there. Spray or even a plastic covers should be there. You can go with that. Let me see if I can get this wrench on there. I'll use the box 10, might be a little easier. Smarter not harder, right? Here we go. It feels like it's getting nice and snug. There we are.

So here we go with friends, we're going to continue. We're going to take off this tape right here. Might take a minute, I wrapped it up good. Once we get it off, we'll have the wires exposed and we'll be able to see where to go from there. Here we go. Things are still looking pretty nice. We can go ahead and cut off this wire tie. I have some cutters with a little screwdriver attached. We'll take off the screwdriver. We don't need that for this application. Cut that. Bye bye. Here's our wires. Everything looks to be in good condition still. Wonderful. Wonderful. Perfect. So here we go. Let's move on to the next step. So here we go. We're going to grab our wiring, try to straighten this out a little bit so we can make some sense out of it. Still got our fuse, our relay. Keep that down. We've got our ground wire, we've got our connection wire. This is power from the switch.

Then we've got our positive wire, it's going to go to the battery. So we'll go ahead, and we're going to try testing all this out. We're going to get it set up so we can see if it works all right. First what I want to do is I'm going to see where we can get power from. So I'm going to come under here, see if I can find a fuse that we can use, a marked one that I'd like to use. I like to go with the low beam. It's a 15 amp. What am I going to do, is I'm going to use one of these. It's a little jumper. We can take the fuse that's inside the fusebox out. We'll put it in here, and that'll give us power. Whatever fuse we're going to use, we want to make sure that it's going to be something that's going to have key power, not constant power. The reason why I want to use the headlights switch fuse is because this is only going to have power when the key's on, and the headlight switches on.

So you'll have fog lights when your headlights turn on only essentially. So if your key is out, your headlights are off, your fog lights are off. You turn on the key, you can put on your fog lights nothing's going to happen. You turn on your headlights with your fog lights switch on, headlights fog lights turn on. You turn off your fog lights switch, fog lights turn off, headlights stay on. You can choose what you want, but essentially we're only going to have power when the key is in the on position and when the headlights are on. So here we go. Grab my tool. We marked which ones going to come out of it, it's a 15 amp and it's the second one down. The reason why I chose the second one down, you could have went with this one as well just because the way that this jumper is. When I put it going across inside the slots, I'm going to have plenty of room if I use the second one down.

If I used the first one, it's going to be up against here or shooting off to the side. I'd rather just go with this one. It's going to work just the same. The key is out of the vehicle. I'm going to go ahead and pull this out. I'm going to take a look at it just to make sure it's in good condition. If it looks like it's black or anything inside there, or if these look like they're corroded, we're going to want to replace it. Looks good. We can go ahead and put it inside our little jumper. Now we're going to take it and we're going to put it right inside of our fuse box. Should slide right in. Here we are. Now we have an area that we can get power when the key's on, and the head light switch is in the on position. So we found where we're going to get our power from. If you want to, you could test it to make sure that it will work. I already tested it. I know it'll work.

Next what I'm going to do is I'm going to carefully take a little blade. I'm going to try to just put one single slit coming down this, being careful not to nick any of these wires. We don't want to cut anything off the sheathing. All I want to do is get enough so I can run a little small screwdriver up through here, and then I'm going to try to run as much of this wire as I can up through here just to lead to there. So we don't need to go all the way down the line. We're just going to bring it to the point. Maybe like right about let's see, maybe like right about here. That way there I can just make the corner, and then I can come right up and it should give us enough slack to get in here. I can go ahead and mark it if I want, so I remember. We're going to be very careful not to cut ourselves. Safety first. Looks pretty good. I'll just stop there for now.

If we need more, we can go ahead and add more. We've got a pretty good amount of wiring here, that looks like it should be good. Set this aside, there's no power going to it at this point so you don't have to worry about touching it or anything. Get this out of the way. I'm going to take a small screwdriver or whatever you want to use, but what I'm going to use is this. I'm just going to come up right along the side of this wire loom right here, and in between the plastic with it. Let's see if I can get it to work in there. Just lifting and pushing, and pushing and lifting. I can see it coming through. Now what I'd like to do is I'd like to try and get this wire to come through with me. The reason why I did the screwdriver first is hopefully it'll give a good enough gap, so I can squeeze this in behind. If it doesn't, we'll try something else, but let's try this.

Let's push this over so it's going along this sheathing. Wow, I know what you're thinking. Something finally worked out good. All right, so that looks like it matches up pretty much perfectly. That means I don't need to go any further with this. So what we can do, we can either leave this on here to make sure that it still covers all this stuff. Tape it back up and we can either leave that there or we can trim it right off. That's up to you. I would rather just tape it. Keeps it protected. Now we're there, we can just bring it right here to the negative. Then this one right here, is going to move along to the fog lights. So what we're going to do now, we're going to take this wire. If it looks like it's frayed, or busted or anything like that, you can trim it and then just take off the outer sheathing again, and start over. It looks pretty good to me.

What I like to do, I'll just fold a little bit of it over, make it nice and thick like that. Then you can go ahead and stick it in there, and I don't know if you can see in there, there's metal. You don't want to just get this into the plastic and think that you're doing all right. Yeah, you're doing all right, but let's keep it going. You got to get all the way down as far as you can. Now we're going to take some wire crimpers. We're going to crimp it down and then we're going to make sure that we seal this up, so it's watertight so no moisture can get in there. You can use tape, you can use heat shrink if you happen to have a piece of heat shrink you want to put over it before you put it together, or you can use some liquid electrical tape. Whatever you're into, it's your preference, but let's move along.

Now we're going to go ahead and we're going to connect these two together. Like I said, you want to pay attention to how far in that piece of metal is. We're going to try to get it in, work it in as far as we can. Make sure it's in there nice and firm. Once we have that in firm, we can go ahead and take our wire crimpers. I'm going to go with this area right here. It's the smaller of the two crimping areas, where it's a small wire. We'll just go with the smaller of the two. If it was larger, you can go with the larger. For this application, let's do it right. We want to be careful because when we line it up, we want to see where else it might go. So if I'm going here, look at where my cutters are going into the wiring. Very bad. Okay? Now that I've messed around with it, I just want to make sure that I do still have it pushed in, and I do.

I want to go ahead paying very careful attention to where everything is. I don't want to cut anything on accident, especially myself and go ahead and crimp this down. It feels pretty good. Give it a little tug. It's going nowhere. That feels great. Now what I'd like to do is either wrap this with electrical tape, or a little bit of a liquid tape. For this application, I'm going to go ahead with some electrical tape. You'll notice that it might be a little bit hard to get this over and under, over and under. It's okay. Look at that, easy peasy. I'm going to start on the wire, and I'm going to work my way down onto the insulator or the connector. Call it what you want. I'm just going to keep on rolling with it. Being careful to make sure that I overlap with each turn. We don't need to be skipping around. We're going to overlap.

We'll bring it down onto the other side of the other part of the wire. If you felt like you really wanted to for some reason, you can go ahead and go back up and down. This is going to be inside the box so it'll be protected, so we don't have to go too crazy with it. Some people like to rip the electrical tape, you can do that or you can use your cutters or a blade. It's very simple though, just to make sure you're holding it, give it a little tug. Just do that. Looks fairly decent, and now I'm going to have to replace a fuse right here. You can use something low. I would go with a low amperage. You can go, I don't know, anywhere up to a 15 I would say, but I'm just going to go with a seven and a half. That should be fine. Then I'm going to go ahead and plug it into our little spa here that we designated for it. Here we go. Now we can move along to the next step.

All right, before we forget, we can go ahead and pull our small screwdriver out of there. Should come out nice and easy. We'll set that aside, so we don't lose it. It's easy to forget things like that. Maybe looking for your small screwdriver someday. Next, I'm going to trim this off. I'm going to make sure that there's no wiring inside there. It's easy to be mistaken, and not see this black wire hanging out in there and just cut it. So we're going to pay very special attention to everything we do. Now I'm going to go ahead and cut it, never towards my fingers. I can go right up against the body if I wanted to, or I'm just going to pull it away. Holding those wires out of the way. Trash. We'll put our blade where we can find it. Where it's safe, won't fall on the ground. Child picks it up.

Now we can move on and start hooking up these wires. So this is going to be fairly simple. We can go ahead and run the negative to the negative right here if you wanted to. That would be the way I would go. Then we can secure it with a couple of wire ties right to this cable, so you don't have to worry about having a big flappy negative wire flapping around. So what we'll do is we'll get this loose, we'll slide this in and then we can go ahead and tighten this up. I only use my 10 millimeter wrench right here. We don't have to take it all the way off. It's already still a little loose from before, and that's good. We just want to make sure that we're keeping constant connection on that battery. Like I said before, we don't want to keep bouncing it around. We'll go ahead and put that in between there. If you want to, you could use a small washer. It's preference, I'm not going to worry about it. Go ahead and tighten this up. I'm turning to the right.

It may take a second, that's okay. Getting close. A little tug, feel the snug, and we can figure out how we want to run this wire after but first, let's continue gearing this all up so we can test it out. I'm going to put my 10 millimeter where I can find it. We've got our yellow wire, we're going to find it in our little miss mash of things. Here we are. We can go ahead and connect this if we want. It's very simple. Just slides right in. Clips in nice. Now we can go ahead and wrap this up with a little bit of electrical tape, but first before we go ahead and wrap things up with this, we're going to make sure that everything works. So let's just do a little test. I'm under the dash, I'm grabbing our wire that we pulled through. Here we are, I'm coming right up and over the fuse box here.

This is about where our switch is going to be approximately taking a guess here, but I would guess it's definitely not going to be way the heck down here. So we've got this where it's going to be. Now we're going to go ahead and we're going to grab our plastic. We're going to get it over here, get all these mounted back onto it. It's just a couple of Phillips head screws. Should be fairly simple to do. It might be hard for the camera to see me do, but we can see where all the mounting is, here, here, here, here. Here's where our switch is going to go. Going to be easy peasy. All right, cool. So we know the switch is, switches are going to be up here, right? Cool. We can even grab our new switch as it is now, get it in here. It's going to go in the middle hole, because we already have one that's going to go here. We already got this one, vehicle dynamic control.

Make sure that it's going to be facing the right direction. Got a couple of little clips right here, just slides right in. There's one on the top and one on the bottom, should click in. Yeah, love it. Perfect, and we get this right here. We're going to go ahead and line up the lock with a lock slot on there. That looks good. How about if we wait on putting up this plastic, and we're going to test it out first. How's that sound? So now that we got this attached, we're going to go ahead and go back out there and we'll start setting everything up, and then we'll get it tested before we put the plastic on because just in case we need to take it back off, why waste all that time? Let's move out. All right, so we got this hooked up right here. Now we can go ahead. What I'm going to do is I'm going to do something very basic. We're just going to set this up, get it so it's hooked in there nice, and it doesn't have to be secured. We're just going to test right now.

All I want to do is I'm just going to put this other negative on here, and just make it so it's going to stay however it works for you. You can take that back off. Whatever you want to do. Anyway, I'm going to come over here, just going to rest this on there like that. So it's making connection. We can take our fog lamp assembly, plug it into the back. I know this is the one for the other side, but it's what I have in my hand, so I'm just going to use it. It should clip right in. All right, now what we're going to do is we're going to see if we've got key power. I'm going to go in, I'm going to turn on the key for the vehicle. I'm going to say key power, and then I'm going to go turn on the headlights. You're going to watch the headlights turn on, and then I'm going to say I'm turning on the fog lights, and we're going to see if the fog light turns on.

Once the fog lights are on, I'm going to leave the fog light switch on, and I'm going to turn off the headlight switch. What we should see is the headlight and the fog light turn off at the time. If that works, that's great. If it doesn't, we'll have to move along, but I know what's going to work. So here we go. I'm in the vehicle, I've got my key inserted. On this model, I'm going to use the push button. I'm going to put it in the on position, which is the second click. Now I'm going to turn on our headlights. Okay, now I'm going to go for the fog lights. Let's take a look. Looks good. So I'm going to leave that fog lights switch on. Now I want to make sure that the fog lamp turns off with the headlight. I'm going to turn off the headlight switch. That looks great. Now I'm going to turn both of them back on by turning on the headlights switch. That looks good.

Now I'm going to just leave them on, and I'm going to turn off the key position on the vehicle. I'm going to remove the key, this particular model likes to leave them on. Turned off the headlight switch. There we go. So we've concluded testing to make sure the wiring works. Now we can go ahead and make everything look pretty. All right, so now what I like to do is I'm going to try to secure the relay and fuse system. If you want, you could try to fabricate something where you can get it inside here where it's protected, just to make sure you have it secured. For the purpose of this video, I'm going to find another spot. I'm just going to come right here. I'm going to use a little zip tie and go through this hole, through that hole. I'm going to try to get it so it's underneath there. Pretty much just like this, and then we'll use a couple more wire ties and we're going to come right down the line.

That should look pretty good. So let's see. Let's grab one of these, got a bunch of them. Going to grab a good one. Okay. Get it out of the way. I like to bend it a little bit. It makes it easier to get through the hole sometimes. Just like that. Now we can go ahead and grab our relay. Like I said before, we're going to try to get the fuse behind it. What we can do also is we can just tape these two together. Might be a good idea. Make sure that everything's latched in together. If you want it to wrap this all with electrical tape going around, try to get it as water tight as you can, that might be good. For the purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it. Just going to go like this. Everybody knows how to use these wire ties. Essentially I just want this to be as secure as possible, so it can't shake, rattle, roll. Going to trim it, put this cover on.

It should clip right in. Seems pretty good, all the wires are clear. That looks good. We can take some more wire ties. We can go bring this cable. All right down along this hood release cable if we want, so it's all nice and secured. See what we can do about making this look a little easier to make sense out of real quick. This looks good. So we remember that we want to use a little wire tie action on this over here as well, and we've got this wire. So let's go ahead and we'll use some wire ties. We'll get this all cleaned up so it looks pretty and clean, and then we can figure out what we're going to do about the extra slack, which will probably just be winding it up, putting it away someplace. You can even tape it or wire tie it up so it's not going to be a big mess, and then you can tuck it away someplace safe where it won't get caught or anything, but that's another step. We'll move on.

I'm going to go ahead and use a couple zip ties. You can use as many as you want, but we really only need two to three. You can even use a little bit of tape if you wanted to. It's up to you. All I'm doing essentially is just securing all the wires together so nothing can flop around from each other. Okay. I got these wires together. Now I'm going to go ahead and grab onto that hood cable like I said before, with the wires. Wire tie on there. The reason why I'm going to the hood cable is because that's secured to the body of the vehicle, so we won't have to worry about these wires flopping around too much. Doesn't have to be too tight. We don't want to cut any wires on accident. I'm just going to do one more for good measure. I'm going to go underneath that hood cable, hopefully. Just going to bend it like I showed you. Give a little hook.

I should be able to get it underneath the cable, underneath the other wire, If I can grab it with my gloved hands, here we are, I should be able to get this all secured in. Grab that end, slide it up. Like I said, we don't need to go too tight. We don't want to cut any wires, so now we've got three wire ties. We can go ahead and trim these off or you can leave them on if you want. I prefer to trim them. Now we can start getting all the rest of these cables hooked up, so we know how much slack we're going to have left. To do this positive wire, what I would like to do is I would like to remove this nut and then put this under it. Before I take that off, I'm just going to go ahead and remove this negative again, just because it's always good measure to have your positive stuff hooked up before you go ahead and remove the negative.

You want to begin by removing the negative, and end with adding the negative. You don't want to go with the positive on and off with a negative attached. So I'm going to go ahead and use my 10 again, and take that off. We put it together for testing purposes. Now we're going for real deal. I'm just going to wiggle it. Just set that aside. So I'm going to start by hooking up this positive. I'm going to remove this nut right here, it's 10 millimeter. Turn it counterclockwise from my point of view. Go ahead and take that all the way off, be careful not to drop it. These aren't used to coming all the way off, so it is what it is. Come on. I'm going to go ahead and put that over someplace where I won't lose it with my wrench, I'm going to take my power wire. I'm just going to come in through behind the battery and the wire system itself.

There's no power going to this, so I don't have to worry about touching it on anything. If there was power going to it, well you don't want to touch it on anything, but we don't have to worry about that. Let's see if I can get it. I'm going blind here. I can feel it. I can see it now, here we are, I got it. I'm just going to come right up, I'm going to put it right there. I'm going to double check, make sure there's no more power wires, which there isn't because this is the other power, but that's coming from the switch. So now we can go ahead and put our nut back on. You can you use the box end if you want or the open end. I'll probably use the box end just to give it a little snug in a second here. Let's do that now. There we go. As you can tell, the wire's going to want to lift up a little bit. If that happens, it's up to you if you want to loosen it back up. I'm not too worried about it.

I'm going to give the terminal end a little shake. It's not going anywhere, so we know we tightened that up as much as it's going to go. Get a whole bunch of extra wire, we'll worry about that in a minute. Now we can go ahead and connect our negative. I'm just going to loosen this up. Probably take it completely off. Let me look at the other terminal end here. Actually, I don't have to take it completely off. It's slotted, so that's even better. We can put it right in with the other one. Doesn't matter which one you put on top or bottom. They don't mind. They're easy going. I'm just going to put it right there. I can just snug it a scorch, we don't want to go too far because we still got to put it on the terminal end. Here we are. You might hear a little bit of a crackle when you're making the connection at first, and that's because now you're adding juice to the battery, or to the car from the battery.

So if you hear the noise, don't get nervous, don't take it off and then try to put it back on and off and on and off and on. Just go for it. I'm going to use the box end, I'm just going to give it a little snug. We don't have to go too hard. We'll just double check it. That feels like it's nice and tight. We'll check for any connections that look like they might've came undone. Everything looks great. Okay, so we have our key in the on position. I can press the fog light button, nothing happens until the headlights switch is in the on position. Now you can see it's geared up, it's ready to go. When we do push it and it turns on, this'll turn orange. It's going to let you know from the inside in case you can't see on the outside that it's on. There we are, our fog lights should be on out there. Like I mentioned, I like to double test it. I'm going to turn off the headlights, turns right off.

Let's see if it turns back on. Headlights, fog lights are on. Fog lights are off. Now it's time to make it look pretty. We can grab whatever we have left for wiring, which is quite a bit. They like to give us plenty, that's nice of them. We can still go ahead and we can make sure that we put a little zip tie on this wire tie. People call it what they want, I'm just going to make sure that these are on there, making sure that I don't cut any wires. There we are. Okay, so we got all this extra wire. Let's do something with it. This is all preference at this point. We've got it wired up, I showed you how to do that. Now you decide how you want to make it look good. All I'm going to do is I'm going to do this. All right, they're all a little wound to tape around there or if you have wire loom, you can go ahead and do that. I'm going to use a little bit of electrical tape, I'm just going to tape it up.

The reason why I want to make this look fairly decent isn't because I care about appearance. It's more just so things can't flop around, get caught on anything. Maybe get a tear and then your lights don't work. Now I'm just going to tuck this in, that looks pretty good. We can get everything in there. Like I said, if you wanted to, you can make it look prettier using a little bit of wire loom. It's all completely preference. For the purpose of this video, I think this looks pretty good. So now we're back inside. We're going to go ahead and start putting all this back together. It looks like a mess, but we'll get it figured out. We've got our switch unit. I know that that's going to go up here. What we're going to do is we're going to try to start from the bottom and work our way up. We've got our emissions connector, OBD connector, call it what you want.

It's going to come in from here, has a little bit of a lip so you can get it underneath there. It should roll under and then it's flexible. Got our screw, yours might look different, but it's Phillips head. Then from the backside, let's see if I can spin this around so everybody can see, maybe. There it is. Make sure our screwdriver is in a forward position, if you have a ratcheting turning clockwise. Just make sure it's secure. Feels great. We'll move along. Now we've got our key. This is where we put the key into, so it's the key slot. If you had this, just insert it. That goes right here. You've got mounting holes, mounting holes. We've got a mounting hole here, and it looks as though the other mounting hole's right there, so we're going to try to line it all up. Essentially you've got the part that sticks out quite a bit, and the part that goes in. The part that sticks out is going to be the top. Part that's in a little bit more is the bottom.

We're going to go ahead and use some Phillips head screws again, grab a couple of them. Show you, here we are both the same. Try to line it up. Might be easier holding onto one screw at a time. I'll just stir them in, and then I'll try to pivot it so you can hopefully see where they're going. This backside one, it's going to be a little difficult. See, once I get it in I'll try to spin it around for you. Okay, got the backside screw in there. I'm going to come up to the front. We've got our little switch assembly here. Just going to go over, and we're going to look for the holes. Line them up. This one screw is going to go through both these brackets. I'm going to use a Phillips head screwdriver still, don't really have to change tools around very much so that's nice. I'm just going to snug it up. It feels pretty good. I'm going to go ahead and do the other one, which is up in this corner. That's snugged in, feels pretty good.

Get some wiring here. We're going to find our green wire that we made. That's going to plug into where our switch is for our fog lights. This one right here is going to go in this, so we can get that in. Now when we're ready to get this up, we're going to try to come in through the backside. There's a little hole right here, easy access. Then I'm going to plug this into the fog light once I get it up a little higher, because there isn't as much slack as what we could use. That's okay. I'm sure we can figure it out even if we have to come from the top, we're going to check to see which way the lock goes. The lock goes to the right or to the passenger's side of the vehicle. It should be able to clip in. I can get my hand in this in there. I heard a click. Okay.

Now we've got little pins on this little plastic piece. These are going to clip into the holes in the dash. See one there, one there, one there, one there, one there. So I'm going to bring it up. I'm going to try to get them lined up. All of them looks good. Give it a little bonk. Okay. There should be one more screw hole right down in here. Continuing with our Phillips head screwdriver, and our last Phillips head screw. Once again, going to the right. Doesn't need to be super tight, just needs to be secure. Feels good, feels good. Looks and feels good. Now you can do whatever you want with this. Keep it for your collection, throw it in the trash, dispose of it properly. It is plastic. You can recycle it and that takes care of the interior. You might have a little cover here. If you do, you'd want to pop that back in. Actually we have one more thing. Almost forgot. Out of sight out of mind.

This just goes right on the side, it should go in pretty easily. It's all lined up. Give it a little bonk. There it is. If you want, we can go ahead. So while we've got the fender cover off still, we'll just come under, we'll take a peek at what we've done. We're going to look at the hood cable, it's still there, there wiring. Let's just mount these two together so one will keep the other safe. That one there. You can use two, three, four, five, whatever you want. I'm just going to go with three. Now we've got everything running together. Go ahead and snip these off, and then we're clear to put in the fender cover. We've got our fender cover. We're going to start putting it in. Try lining everything up. We'll see how it goes. It's going to give you a little bit of a fight, so we're just going to go around, continue putting in our push clips.

Just wiggle them around until they fit in the hole, like I showed you when we were removing them. Basically the outside is out and then when it's in, you push in the inside and it locks it in. So when you're putting it in the hole, you can grab by the outer area, try to line it up. Get all those little pins inside your hole, hopefully. If it doesn't seem like it wants to go in, you could try a different one. Just try another one just for video's sake. Let's see if we can get it in. It's out. Snap it in. We're just going to continue and do all of our holes, so we get all our push clips in coming around the inside here. We're going to go ahead and put in our screws. We have one more push clip left. We don't want to forget about the one that's hiding under there. Got a little waldo. Where's waldo? See if we can put it in. Block that puppy in.

Now we're clear to put it in our Phillips head screws. You can start with whichever one you want. That's one, we're just screwing into plastic. Turning to the right clockwise, nice and snug. Everything looks good. If you happen to notice that this black's sitting on the outside of your body fender, it's pretty easy. You can just grab it and push it in, get it riding on the inside channel of the fender. Looks pretty good. Now we should be clear to put the bumper on. All right, now it's time to install our bumper cover. We're going to be careful not to rub up against our fenders with it, unless you don't care about your paint. I'm going to try hard though. See if we can get it settled in nice and easy. Let's get that down along there. I'll worry about pressing it in in a minute. Just going to get it lined up along the top here, so we're going to get this lined up.

We want to try and get this hole lined up under there. This one there, that's one there, and so on. If you need to, you can use a little bit of your body force. We have two different types of clips here. We have regular push clips, and then the lock-in push clips. You can count them. There's two that are locking, four that are regular. They're different sizes. This right here is much wider than the other ones, so they go on the bigger holes. I'm going to put the two, there's one right here. The second one right here. These are the two bigger holes. If you want to, you can latch them down. I'm going to worry about it yet, I'm going to try to get these lined up. Let's give it a little push. That locked in. Come on over. The next one should just press in hopefully. Sometimes it's hard getting things lined up. Here it is. Come along, we got two more holes. It's nice. See if I can get it in.

If you needed to, you could use maybe a small hammer or whatever you got. If you don't have the thumb strength for it, that's okay. All right, so we've got all these, I can go ahead and lock these down simply by pushing in the centers. You can line up the bumper along the headlights, you might do a little bit of finagling here. I try to get it right along the seam of the fender. There's a little lip under there with black. See if we can get it popped in. Looks like we need to give it a little bit of a tug to pull it. Here we go. Some brute force. We'll do the same thing for the other side. Now we'll be clear to lift this up, and we can put in our two screws and then go along the bottom and fill those in as well. All right, so we have our little hidden screw holes here. We've got our, see if I can get it off. Get our screw, 10 millimeter bolt head. In case we don't remember, that's okay.

I'm just going to try and get it lined up. We are only screwing into plastic. Anytime you hear that, just remember you don't have to go super tight. It's just to secure it in. That feels pretty good. We can go ahead and push this up in here, and then we're just going to go onto the other side. We'll finish off with the bumper skirt, should be all set. So now we got our fog light connector, we have our fog light bulb right there. We're going to check to see where the slot is on this. Check to see where the slot is on the fog light. Fairly simple. It looks like this, it's going to go this way. Let me see if I can wiggle it a little bit. Get that clicked in nice and secure, looks good. Then we'll just go over and do the same to the other side. Now we can continue putting this together. So here we go.

We're going to grab this plastic. It's going to go underneath the plastic of your bumper or bumper cover I guess. Your bumper would be the metal part. Get that lined up. If these things look like they're misaligned with the holes, they just moved fairly easily. Then we can line them up. Take a peek. Of course the first one that I put in moved a little bit, that's okay. Like I said, they moved fairly easily. That looks good now. Okay. Take our three Phillips heads on our screwdriver, we're just screwing into plastic so you don't have to go hard, like I keep saying. Let's get these in, down in line. There we are. Now we'll do the same on the other side, and we can move on. So we have our splash shield. Let's say for some reason maybe you lost the clips that go up here. You lost the push pins, or even you just didn't have any and you just need to replace them. You don't have any of replacements.

What we can do is use a couple zip ties. The way we're going to do that, if you have access to something like this, you can go ahead and make a hole something like that. You can use a drill bit if you wanted to do that, you could use anything that you want to use and make a hole really. Very carefully use a pocket knife. For me, I'm just going to go ahead and use this. I got it nice and hot. I'm going to go like this. Just rest it on there. Got myself a nice little hole. There's one. You don't want to breathing in these fumes. Sure it's known to the State of California to cause cancer. There we are, and we've got holes. Go ahead and turn this off. Let it finish doing what it's doing. You can smoke clouds. So now we can go ahead and match this up. Bring it up here. It looks fairly good, so we can use our zip ties.

It's going to be hard getting the first one started, and be flopping around. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to get us started down here, and go through. I'm going to bring it back through. If you wanted to, you could use bigger zip ties. Something a little stronger might be better. What I'm doing, I'm just going to do this. Let's see. Let's go this way. That makes more sense, doesn't it? Bring it through. Just get it started. We don't need to tighten it up yet. Now we can just let this hang down. We can grab our other zip ties, continue on. I'll leave them loose until we get in our push pins. Get it lined up with the hole, push it right in. Got the last one, see if we can get it up in there. Take our center push pin, lock it up in. Here we go. Now we can go ahead and tighten these down. We'll just go down the line. You can leave them down if you'd like that. Trim them off if you don't. Looks like a neat little thing, but here we go.

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Tools needed for replacement:

    Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Electrical Tape
  • Wire Ties

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Crimper

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Pocket Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 10mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Plastic Fastener Remover
  • Trim Tool Set

2010 - 2012  Nissan  Altima

10-12 Nissan Altima Sedan Add-on Clear Lens Fog Light Pair w/ Installation Kit

2010-12 Nissan Altima Fog Light Kit Clear Lens DIY Solutions LHT01151

This part replaces:

  • Partslink NI2593122
  • OE # 261559B91C
  • OE # 8261509B91C
  • Partslink NI2592122

Part Details

  • Light Option: Clear Lens
O2 Sensors is it Upstream or Downstream?

O2 Sensors is it Upstream or Downstream?

Does your vehicle need an upstream or a downstream oxygen sensor? In this video, the experts at 1A Auto show you how to identify your O2 sensors to find out which part you need.

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