How to Replace a Front Wheel Hub and Bearing on a 1996-2007 Chrysler Town And Country Van

Video Summary

1A Auto shows you how to repair, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning front wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to 1996-2007 Chrysler Town and Country models. You will first learn how to remove your existing front wheel hub and bearing, and then install a replacement.

Video Transcription

"In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front wheel hub bearing on this 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, same as most of the Chrysler mini vans from this era, 2004-2007. A bad wheel hub usually makes a humming sound and usually when you turn the direction of it, it quiets. If your right front wheel hub is bad usually on a right hand curve you don't hear the humming as much.

The tools you're going to need for this front wheel bearing hub repair are a jack and jack stands, and you'll need 15, 19, 21 and 32 millimeter sockets. That 32 millimeter socket's a big socket. You'll also need a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, some penetrating oil, a hammer - the bigger the better - a T45 Torx or eight millimeter Allen driver, flat blade screw driver, large C-clamp and torque wrench.

If your vehicle is a northeastern or rust belt vehicle, this can be difficult and it sometimes can be hard to get the wheel hub out of the steering knuckle. For southern vehicles, vehicles that aren't prone to rust or corrosion, it's usually a pretty straight forward replacement.

Okay, so let's show you how to change a front wheel bearing hub assembly. First, so here I fast forwarded a little bit and I'm removing the cotter pin that holds the cover and then allows you to get to the center wheel hub bolt. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to do this you'll want to put the lug nuts back on the wheel, put the vehicle back down on the ground and then you're going to want to use a large breaker bar and a 32 millimeter socket to get that nut off. Do this at a later time once you have the brakes apart, but once you do get that nut off, you want to wrap the end of the axle with the hammer. If you give it one good hit it should break loose and once it breaks loose, you know you can get the wheel hub off without much problem.

Okay, so if you're using just regular hand tools, then you take your wheel off the rest of the way. Again, if you're using impact tools, then it doesn't really matter. If you do see that it's hard to get your wheel off, put a couple of lug nuts back on and then hit the top or the bottom of the tire. The lug nuts help so the tire doesn't fly off when it breaks loose.

I'm going to check the condition of our brakes. You can see the rotors. You take the back of your fingernail, this surface should be pretty smooth. On this vehicle, these are pretty deeply grooved, so this rotor at the very least needs to be turned and by the look of the condition of it, we're going to replace it. If you're replacing a rotor, you're going to replace your brake pads anyways and we can look in here and you can see that that brake pad - so here's the metal of the pad - the metal of the rotor and in-between there is the pad and you can see it's pretty thin.

This is in need of some new brakes in the front here. Use the steering wheel or just pull on the opposite wheel, and turn them so you can get to the back of the caliper easily. To remove your brake caliper, there are two bolts, one there and one down there. They are T45 Torx bit style bolts, so I use a 3/8th ratchet to remove them. I'll just fast forward here as I use that Torx bit and my ratchet and remove those two bolts.

As the brakes clear, this is the caliper piston. That piston works its way out, so what you need to do is take a big screw driver and pry on the caliper. Pry slowly and you can probably see that the piston is working its way back in. There's a bracket that holds the caliper. You pry that off with a flat blade screw driver.

Now your caliper comes off and you can just pull the inner brake shoe right out. Then put your caliper, I hang it up on the strut. If you're going to do any other work, secure it with some wire ties and then you can take your outer pad off just by pulling it right out.

Next, you want to remove this bracket. There are two 21 millimeter bolts here and here. You'll need a 21 millimeter socket. I suggest a breaker bar and if you don't have a breaker bar, use your ratchet. Okay and then hook a piece of pipe onto it that gives you some extra leverage and apply pressure nice and easy and the bolt will start to go. Speed up here, as I loosen that one up and then I do the same thing for the lower bolts. Then I remove the pipe and use the ratchet and take them out the rest of the way and then take that bracket right off.

Your vehicle may still have these little locks on it, pull those right off with a pair of pliers. I'm going to coat this with penetrating oil; hopefully it will let me get the disc off easier. I'll just fast forward through this a little bit, but you'll see I put a couple of lug nuts onto the disc and then, the bigger the hammer the better, and ours is pretty rusted on there, so I just give it some strategic hits and eventually it comes off.

I'm going to show you this again real quickly. Again, if you don't have air tools, you probably already took the center wheel hub nut off. If not, if you're working with air tools you can do it now. An alternative is you could put the wheel back on right now, lower the vehicle to the ground and use your hand tools to take that center hub nut off. It is a 32 millimeter nut. You're going to have to remove the four bolts that hold the wheel hub, the 15 millimeter in there, you'll have to remove this bolt here to get the sensor out of the way and then you can remove the two bolts here on this side.

Okay, what you can do with a regular 15 millimeter socket is push the axle back and get your socket on there. Okay, I'm going to speed right through, removing those two bolts, again, they're 15 millimeter bolts and a regular size ratchet they shouldn't be so tight that they don't come apart fairly easily.

Here I'm using a 10 millimeter socket with a ratchet and extension and removing that bolt that holds the sensor in place and you pull that sensor and move it out of the way. I'll keep the fast moving action going as we remove those other two bolts that are on the back side.

Okay, now it's a matter of using a hammer; the larger the better, beat on it a little bit then use some penetrating oil. Try and spray it in behind and I keep this up on this vehicle. It probably took me about 10 minutes of banging on the hub and it finally came free. That is how to remove a front wheel hub bearing on this vehicle.

Now, we are going to show you how to install a new wheel hub and bearing. First, use a wire brush or some sandpaper and clean out the inside of the steering knuckle. This is the part from 1A Auto, just like the old wheel hub. Grab the back of your axle, put it on there, spin the flange a little bit, push it back in to the flange and start your bolts. I'll fast forward here again, as I just get all the bolts started and then I tighten them up with my ratchet, socket and extension. I torque the bolts to 45 foot pounds.

Okay, and speed it up here again as I torque the rest of the bolts and what you want to do is diagonally, so if you do the front top one, do the rear lower one and then do the rear upper one and then the front lower one. Put the center washer back on and the hub nut back on and tighten it up. Primarily you need to torque it when the vehicle is back on the ground; put the wheel back on and it's back down on the ground. Put your sensor back in place and tighten that 10 millimeter bolt back up.

This is the new rotor from 1A Auto, put it on. Take your bracket, the bracket goes between the steering hub back here and the rotor. Poor shooting here, but I'm putting that bracket in place, holding it in place, starting the bolts on and then I tighten them up. I also put a lug nut onto the stud just to hold things in place, make it a little easier to work. You'll want to tighten these to 120 foot pounds.

Just use a pair of wire cutters or something to clip your wire ties or whatever you have holding the caliper up. You want to actually put your old pad back in and use a large C clamp and force the piston back in. As I tighten up the C clamp, you�ll see the piston go back in the rest of the way. All right, take the clamp off, tighten the old pad out. The new pad comes with the clips to put it right in. This one goes right into the piston and put the outer one into your caliper bracket. Put your caliper on.

Okay, this is your disc, put it on there, put one side of this bracket in and then push the other side in and push the bracket down and on. Come around the back, push your bolts in. Speed up a little bit here as I just tighten up those bolts with the Allen or Torx bit and ratchet. Torque these to 30 foot pounds.

Now I take that lug nut off and then you�ll lift your wheel in place; start the two lug nuts that are opposite the valve stem and then put your wheel cover on and start the rest of the lug nuts.

With the vehicle on the ground you want to torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern as you tighten them. After you�ve done both sides, pump the brakes a bunch of times and then do test stops from five to 10 miles an hour while road testing the vehicle. You are done - that is how to change a front wheel hub and bearing on a 1996-2007 Chrysler Town And Country Van.

Thanks for watching! Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393 with any questions or to order any of the parts shown in this video, or you can order your 1996-2005 Chrysler Town & Country front wheel bearing and hub assembly online."

1A Auto Parts

Customer Feedback

"Thanks for the fast reliable service. Great price, and the headlights were as good as oem or better!!! Keep up the good work..."
- Dwuan M.
Read More