Top Check Engine Trouble Codes 1999-2007 Ford Super Duty F-250 Truck

In this video, we're gonna go over the top codes we found with this '03 Ford F-250.

One of the most common trouble codes on the range of say, '99 to '07, that's 2007, F-250's is an ABS code, and it's C1095. What it does is a quick way to test it, but it's not so easy to get to, and it's not hard to test. All you need is a test light. The module itself is located underneath the airbox bracket in the emission tank. It's like an EVAP tank here. This is a big bracket. You're gonna have to unbolt it. I flipped it up because it's an '03, and it's pretty rusted, and one of the bolts is broken, so it's stuck in there. I just bent the bracket up. I've accessed my ABS module and what you do, is you find the wires underneath.

Both the orange and the yellow wires are supposed to have battery voltage to them. If they do, move on. Check your light green and yellow wires for ground. If you have power at the orange and yellow, there's two orange and yellow wires, you have power to both of them, move on. Check your ground on your green and yellow wires. It's light green. And if you have ground on both of those, strongly recommend just replacing the control module, ABS module, and the pump together. I am pretty sure you might not even be able to get them separately, but on an '03, or anything in that year range, you can try a salvage yard. Brand new, it's gonna cost some money, but you just did all the testing and saved all that money.

Second code that I wanna talk about is actually two codes, but it kinda go...they go together. P0171 and P0174. It's a lean condition or a rich condition. If you have a handheld scanner or a good scanner, a big one, it has a graphic reading on it, you're gonna be looking for your short and long fuel trim. What you're gonna be looking for, basically to start off with, is whether you're not getting proper air because you have a vacuum leak, or you have a stuck open injector, or your fuel pump isn't giving out the proper pressure.

Let's start with real simple things. If you don't have a scanner or a handheld reader, we're just gonna check for vacuum leaks. What I would recommend is Carb Clean. You're gonna have the truck running, and you're gonna start spraying around the intake where it meets the head. Right underneath here are gaskets. They will crack, they disintegrate, and they're gonna start to suck a little bit of air. That's gonna cause it to run lean. I'm not worried about which bank at this point. We just wanna know if we have a vacuum leak.

Another problem, will set that, maybe an additional code, would be the IAC valve. The IAC valve stuck, actually in the open position. You'll get a surging and searching for idle. What happens is, you can go back there, it's located in the back of the throttle body. It's got a little plastic connector. It should have three or four wires going to it on this particular Ford. Disconnect the oil it's idling. If the car stalls instantly, it's working. If the car stays running or surging, that valve is stuck open. It's basically another vacuum leak.

Check your PCV. This is the valve that goes right over here to the passenger valve cover. Comes out, a little valve right down there goes right in the back over to the throttle body. Check all your vacuum hoses that go everywhere. There's not much on this year, make and model due to the actual fuel injection, each individual injector. They kinda did run away from all those vacuum lines, which is a nice thing. You do have a vacuum line going way in the back to the fuel pressure regulator.

Now we're gonna talk about that. You might have a lean running condition, but it's not a vacuum leak. Your fuel pump is not up to par. You need to look for your specs, find out the fuel pressure for the specs. Need to find someone with a fuel pressure gauge. It's the only way you can diagnose this. You're gonna have a Schrader valve on the fuel rail, that's on the passenger side of the engine. It's right back there. Little plastic looks like a tire valve. Take the cap off, put a fuel pump gauge on there and you're gonna take the reading at idle.

Then you're gonna take the vacuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator, which goes around the back. You're gonna take the hose off, block it with your finger, and you wanna watch that pressure, see if it drops. And then, you can actually take a vacuum pump, hook it up to that fuel regulator in increments of 1" to 2" psi. You're gonna watch that fuel pressure pop up and bring up. If it does not respond, then you have a bad fuel regulator, which is a vacuum-operated, or you could have a leaky injector that is just dumping the fuel. Now, we're gonna keep talking about the fuel pump.

I want you to do, if you have a gauge, use it for the full test. I want you to check the deadhead fuel pump pressure. Very simple. You're gonna go down to where the fuel filter is, and on the inlet side, which is the side from the gas tank side going to that fuel filter, not after, right before it, you're gonna hook up that gauge. You're gonna turn the key on and off, don't start it. On and off, on and off several times. That gauge should read about 80 psi. You want it to go right up to 80 psi. If, after several times of doing this, it's having a hard time getting up to 80, fuel pump is no good. If you get it up to 80, and you're like, "Fuel pump seems to be good," last time, turn the key in the off position, watch that gauge, and if it slowly sinks down like this, replace the fuel pump.

These are simple things, real easy to detect, doesn't cost you anything to have someone diagnose it because you just did it yourself. One of the last things I want to talk to you about is the mass airflow sensor. Now, this particular vehicle has one, and they are very crucial. They can lead to a lot of headaches because if there's a smidge of a vacuum leak, a loose clamp on the airbox, like this clamp is loose, that clamp up there is loose, one of these hoses comes off and is over here, what a nightmare because it gets too much air flowing through it, and it takes a different reading. It says, "Hey, it's cold out. It's hot out. We need to dump fuel."

Well, that's not what we want. We want a sealed unit. We want that thing to work properly. Besides the leaks and stuff, make sure everything's tight, is you want to make sure that there's not a rodent or a family of birds living right here inside this air intake because it's blocking the airflow. That'll cause a problem too. And so, what we're gonna do is, I'm gonna show you what it looks like. You can take your airbox off. I've already loosened the clamp. Take the air inlet hose going to the throttle body, get it out of the way. Let's take this up, and there is the Ford mass airflow sensor right there.

It's inside. It's got that little wire. It's got the little reading it and what it does is gets a Hz reading. Basically, it's like an airflow in temperature, and you can clean that, but sometimes...and you gotta make sure you use a mass airflow cleaner. Don't use Carb Clean. It's way too strong. Don't use an air. I've seen some people take air. No, you're not cleaning it with it. You're actually damaging the wire. They make cleaner for mass airflow sensors. Use that. Try to have it tipped so that it doesn't go into the circuit board, which is inside there. So you can leave it like this.

Just get the wire cleaned, let it dry naturally, and then reattach it, and then see how it runs. If you don't have a scanner, you're gonna feel the difference. You're gonna see the difference. It might start to search for an idle, and that leads down another whole road called idle relearn. Let's talk about that. Once you've done all this nice little fun stuff to do to find out if you have a problem, or what the problem is, shall I say, and you fix it, you might have to get or do, you might have to do a relearn for the idle. Real simple, if you don't have a scanner and you can't reset it...even if you do reset the code, that's not gonna reset the learning of where the idle should be on the PCM.

Basically, what I would say is disconnect your negative and your positive on the battery. Disconnect them at the same time, lift them up, and then hold them together for 30 seconds to a minute. That's basically doing a nice wash on that PCM. It's not damaging it. It's not hurting it. There's no voltage. You're just doing a complete circuit. Then, you're gonna hook up your positive, then your negative last, start it up. You still might be searching for that because it's gotta learn it. Then, you get in your car with your best friend and go for a ride, chase the sunset, or go get an ice cream.

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