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Top 5 Problems Mazda CX-5 SUV 1st Generation 2013-16

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Top 5 Problems Mazda CX-5 SUV 1st Generation 2013-16

Created on: 2020-10-14

This video shows you the most common problems known to the 1st generation Mazda CX-5 which is available as model years 2012 to 2016.

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Hey friends, it's Len from 1A Auto. Today, we have a first Gen Mazda CX-5 in the studio, and I want to go over some of the top problems. So, let's get started. Now, for the first problem on this particular type of vehicle, we're going to talk about the LED daytime running lights being an op. A lot of these models are going to have this strip right here that comes down and does a nice little U. That's a daytime running light. It needs to basically run, as you're driving around in your vehicle, without your headlights on.

Essentially, what happens with these is moisture will get inside the lens, as you can see right along the top here, and it kind of corrodes the little circuit that's inside there that controls the LEDs. Now, Mazda released a statement on these, basically, saying that there was improper materials used for the ceiling gasket. So, essentially, the circuit board on the inside can get corroded, and that's going to cause the LED running lights to either flicker or even not work at all. And this can typically happen to either one headlight or even both at the same time.

If you're handy, maybe you could try to take it apart, clean it up. If there's any corrosion, obviously, that's something that you're going to want to take care of. Most people, in general, will actually have to replace the headlamp assembly, which can be a little costly, sometimes upwards of over $1,000, just for one lamp assembly itself.

Now, for the second problem on these vehicles, we're going to talk about the windshield. It's pretty typical if you're on a nice drive, maybe you're doing some leaf-peeping, or maybe on just a road trip of some sort, you're driving down the road and you're not on a dirt road. There's nothing going on. There's no big trucks in front of you. You start hearing a little bit of a creaking noise coming from inside the passenger compartment in front of you. Maybe even a little popping. You start analyzing the situation, and right up along the top of your windshield, you're gonna start seeing a little bit of cracks.

Yeah, this isn't really a crack. I drew it in red with a marker. It's gonna come right off, but it is something that you can look at. So, you kind of get what I'm saying. Essentially, up along the top is where the crack is gonna form. And then eventually it will actually spread if it's not taken care of. So, if we're wondering about causes for this, while like I said, typically, it's not actually due to maybe a rock coming up or anything like that. Usually, it's just a stress crack. And there really isn't much you can do about it.

As far as fixes for this, if you have a little chip in the windshield, it's probably not a big deal. If you have a big old crack coming down the windshield, obviously, you're going to have to replace the windshield. Typically, when people replace the windshield, the problem doesn't really reoccur. But there has been times where people have said that it does actually reoccur.

Now, for our third problem on these vehicles, we're going to talk about the liftgate support pistons. That's these right here. Typically, what happens with them is they'll start leaking out their fluid inside, and the gases, and they'll just be weak. So essentially, you open up your tailgate, you get in here, you start putting in your groceries. Next thing you know you're, what is going on? This thing just comes bonking down on you, and you have to either hold it up completely or try to prop it up with something or whatever you have to do.

Essentially, the cause for that, like I said, is the gases on the inside, they eventually leak out. That's just what happens over time, right, things break down. What you would do to fix this? Well, you could just unbolt it right here, take it off there, replace the piston. And when you do them, you do them as a pair both at the same time.

Now, for the fourth problem on these vehicles, we're going to talk about the rear brakes. Typically, if you were to look through your wheels, which of course you can usually in most cases, you're gonna be able to see your brake rotor, that's this right here. The pads are going to be a little bit harder to see, but they're going to be located inside the caliper area. What happens with these brakes, and you might notice it on this rotor right here, is that the brakes just aren't wearing evenly.

Typically, the brake pads themselves will often wear out quicker than normal. And you'll have to service them more frequently. Obviously, if the rotors are in this condition, you'd probably have to service those as well, perhaps maybe even replace them. With that said, this typically happens more frequently like normal. Like I said, the reason for that is because, on the caliper bracket, which is this right here, you have these tins where the actual pads are supposed to sit into.

Behind those tins, you've got the area of the bracket. It's usually pretty much just metal on metal back there. So, if moisture makes its way inside there, it's going to build up, it's going to push out these bracket tins a little bit. And that's going to make it, so the pad can't slide in and out as it's supposed to. If the pad is stuck inside the bracket in any way, and it just can't fluctuate like it's supposed to, more than likely it's going to get stuck up against the rotor because as you step on the brake, it's going to be under a lot of force squeezing those pads in by the caliper. Just like that.

You go to release the brake, pads are supposed to kind of release and release the rotor, so it can spin again. If the pads are stuck in the brackets, they're going to be stuck up against the rotor, and you're definitely going to have an issue. Another symptom you might get with your brake rotors might be something that looks a little bit more like this, which essentially means that the pads aren't hitting up against the rotor the way that they're supposed to. And of course, it's starting to get a lot of buildup.

Typically, a fix for this, of course, would be you'd want to take apart your brakes and inspect the pads and rotors. If the rotor braking surface looked like it was in decent condition, and the pad still had plenty of meat, obviously, what you'd want to do is take apart the caliper bracket here, take these tins off, you want to clean up these areas. You can do that with something as simple as a wire brush or a sanding disc or anything like that. Just kind of get all the debris off of there.

And then I like to put a nice coating of Moly grease on there. Something that's high temperature. I'll put it on there. That'll keep the moisture away. Once you've done that, go ahead and put your tins back on, put your brake pads in there, put it all back together, and you should be good to go. And if you find that you have to replace the brake pads for any reason, it's always a good idea to make sure you replace the rotors at the same time.

Now, if you do have to replace your rear brakes, I want to let you know that you're more than likely going to have an issue pushing in your rear caliper piston. The reason for that is because you have electronic drivers that are on the backside of this for the emergency brake system. Essentially, what you're gonna have to do is put your brakes in service mode, which will then allow you to push on that caliper piston so you can service it.

For problem number five, most modern vehicles are very technologically advanced. With that said, they have a lot of electrical systems inside of them, and a lot of modules. On this particular vehicle, it has a very nice electrical parking brake. Essentially, what that means is you don't have to grab onto something, give it a nice rip to put on the e-brake, or even step on to that pedal there and try to add pressure to it that way. You just push a little button, it activates the e-brake for you.

Now, having the electronic emergency brake like this, obviously, it's going to have to have an electronic module that's going to send power down to the drivers that are located right on the calipers themselves, that are going to activate the emergency brake slash, pushing that caliper so it holds the rear brakes for you. So, some of the symptoms that you might find, if you're having an issue with the electronic parking brake module, might be something as simple as on your dash, your little EPB light flashing.

Essentially, if you had a nice scanner, you can try to pull the codes, and it's going to come up with a couple of different things for you. Essentially, means that you're having an issue with the electronic aspect of your electronic parking brake system. Another symptom that you might happen to find is that your parking brake is just kind of stuck on there. You can feel the drag as you try to accelerate from your parking spot.

Or maybe it's partially stuck on. You can feel a little bit of a drag. And maybe you get out of your vehicle after you've been driving for a little while, and you can smell a little bit of smoke coming from the rear brakes. Or maybe the parking brake doesn't work at all. And of course, that's going to be an issue of its own. If your parking brake is stuck in the on position, obviously, you're going to more than likely have an overheating condition coming from the rear brake.

So, like I said, you're probably going to smell smoke coming from back there. It's definitely going to look overheated. You'll probably feel a brake pulsation, and more than likely, your brake pads are going to wear out sooner than normal. Quick note, from what I've read, there has been complaints of the emergency brake actually locking up while the vehicle is in motion, which of course, could be very bad.

So, possible causes for the electronic parking brake issue will probably come down to the electronic parking brake module. But it could also be those drivers that are located on the back of the calipers. It's a little less likely, but if you happen to find that you're having an issue with one side and not the other, more than likely it does actually have to do with the calipers themselves.

So, for a quick fix for this, if you happen to notice that you have the EPB light flashing on your dash there, essentially you want to pull those codes and make sure that those actually come down to the electronic parking brake module. Once you found that that is the issue, go ahead and disconnect your negative battery terminal, leave it off for maybe a couple hours so that way that all your modules can reset. Reconnect it. Try to take it for a road test. If you find the problem is resolved, well, that's great. Something to think about though is that usually, this is kind of more of a temporary fix. And overall it comes down to replacing that EPB module itself, which could essentially cost over $900.

Okay, friends, so that's pretty much what I've got for you for top problems on this Mazda CX-5. Of course, every vehicle has its problems, otherwise, I probably wouldn't have a job. With that said, I hope you learned a little something along the way. If you liked the video, smash on that like button for me. It would mean the world. If you got a comment or something to say, leave it in the comment section below, because I always love to hear from you, especially if you have a vehicle of your own, with problems of its own. Well, while I've still got you here, make sure you subscribe, ring the bell that way there you can be kept up with all of our latest content. Thanks.


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