How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado 1500
Created on: 2014-05-27
Learn how to replace your own wheel hubs on your 2000-06 Chevy Silverado or Suburban or GMC Sierra or Yukon. In this video, the expert mechanics at 1A Auto will show you how to replace a hub that's vibrating, groaning or loose.
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
- Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
- Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Caliper Bracket
- Remove the T55 Torx bolts from the caliper
- Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the caliper to push the caliper piston in
- Remove the caliper
- Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
- Use a piece of pipe and ratchet to remove two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
- Slide the rotor off
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For the third step, if you do not have air tools you can either loosen the center hub nut before you take your brakes apart by having somebody hold the brakes, or you can use a large bar, put it between the lug studs to hold it, and break the bar.
step 3 :Removing the Hub
- Disconnect the ABS harness from the frame and steering spindle by removing the clips
- Pry off the center hub cap using a flat blade screw driver and hammer
- Remove the 36mm center hub nut with an impact wrench and air blow gun
- Remove the three 15mm hub bolts with two 15mm wrenches
- Twist the hub nut a quarter of the way
- And hammer from the back of the hub
- Remove the hub nut and pull the hub out
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step 4 :Installing the New Hub
- Place the backing plate onto the hub
- Push the hub back into place
- Insert and tighten the 15mm hub bolts
- Torque the 15mm hub bolts to 75 ft/lbs
- Remove the clip and feed the ABS harness back into place
- Replace the clips and brackets to the ABS harness
- Replace center hub nut and washer
- Tighten the center hub nut
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step 5 :Replacing the Caliper Bracket
- Place the rotor on the hub
- Twist a lug nut to hold the rotor in place
- Put the caliper on
- Replace and tighten the 18mm bolts
- Torque the 18mm bolts to 75 ft/lbs
- Install the new brake pads into the bracket, tapping lightly with a hammer
- Grease the caliper bolts
- Place the caliper onto the bracket
- Replace and tighten the T55 Torx bolts
- Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs
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step 6 :Reinstalling the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the 22mm bolts
- Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
- Torque the center hub nut to a 125 ft/lbs
- Reattach the center cap
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step 7 :Testing the Brakes
- Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
- Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
- Road test the vehicle
Tools needed
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A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
15mm Wrench
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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