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How to Replace Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly 98-03 Dodge Durango

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (1:10)
    • While your car is still on the ground, use your 32mm socket to loosen the center hub nut
    • Loosen your lug nuts and jack up the car
    • Remove the lug nuts with your 19mm socket and ratchet
    • Remove the wheel and set aside
  2. step : Removing the Brakes (1:20)
    • Remove the T47 torx bolts holding the calipers and the bracket
    • Wire tie the caliper up and out of the way, set the bracket to the side
    • Remove your rotor and set aside
  3. step : Removing the Axle (1:56)
    • Remove the 14mm bolts securing the axle
    • Use an axle puller or a light, but firm, tap with a small hammer on the axle to remove it
  4. step : Remving the Hub (5:30)
    • Remove the three 22 mm bolts, using penetrating oil to help
    • A breaker bar or piece of pipe on the end of your ratchet may be needed
    • Remove the hub and clean the area with a wire brush
  5. step : Replacing the Hub (7:20)
    • Clean hub seating with a wire brush and add a little anti-seize grease
    • Put position your new 1A Auto hub in its seating
    • Put the three 22 mm bolts in place and tighten the nuts to 90 ft lbs
    • Reinstall the axle and torque the 14 mm bolts to 60 ft lbs
  6. step : Reinstalling the Brakes and Wheel (8:45)
    • Refer to our other videos for more detailed instructions
    • Remember to replace the lug nuts on in a star pattern
    • Lug nuts tighten to 90-100 ft lbs
    • Hub nut is 175 ft lbs
    • Make sure to check your brakes and steering before driving again
    • Make sure to have the vehicle aligned

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your best source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we'll be showing you how to replace the right hub on this '98 Durango, same as any '98-'03 Durango and '97-'04 Dakota. This vehicle has rear wheel ABS only, so the only difference if your truck has four-wheel ABS is you will have a harness to deal with, unplug before you remove the hub. You'll need jack, jack stands, various millimeter or metric sockets, including a 32-millimeter socket, which is not in most people's toolbox, T47 driver and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, pliers, torque wrench and wire brush.

I'm going to fast forward through removing the tire and also fast forward through removing the brakes. If you want to see this in regular time, just check out our other videos for the Durango and Dakota front brakes. Once we get through this, it's a T47 driver, and you remove two bolts then use a screwdriver or your wrench to try and pry the caliper up and off, pull the caliper off, secure it up top, because you don't want to ruin your hose. You just secure it up top with a wire tie and remove your rotor.

I'm going to remove this cotter pin here. Usually the best way to do it is to break it as high up as you can, use the bigger pair of pliers, squeeze it together as much as I can then apologies for the bad camera work out. I just turn around and pull the cotter pin up and out. The cap and the spring washer come out. In this part, we're going to remove the hub nut. It's a 32-millimeter nut, and if you don't have air tools, what you can do is you can put your tire back on, put the lug nuts back on, lower your vehicle onto the ground and use a breaker bar and 32-millimeter ratchet to do it... I'm sorry, 32-millimeter socket. I have the benefit of an impact wrench, so I will use that to remove the nut. The bolt comes off, and there is also a washer in there as well.

If you're lucky, what you do is take a hammer- you don't want to beat this thing up because you'll end up ruining your axle. If you give it one good rap, and you just watch the axle in relation to the hub and you see that move, then you're okay. You don't need to worry about using a axle pull or anything like that.
Remove those six bolts right back in there, and you can see them as they come around and they're not too difficult. You can reach them pretty easily from the underneath, and what you can do, I got my bar on here, my wrench with my 14-millimeter socket, and so I'll hold this while I pull on this one right here and it will come off. Do the next one and it will come off. That's one way to do it. Obviously a much easier way to do it is with an impact wrench right here
We'll just speed through removing the rest of those bolts. Once you have the axle unbolted, you can reach right in here, pull it back and down and then as you get down here, just spin it, pull it back and spin it down.

Then use your hammer, push it right out. You have to lift it up some then there's your axle out.

With the axle out of the way and behind, you've got three 22-millimeter bolts that hold the hub on. One there, one on the front and one at the top. You're really going to want a breaker bar or a pipe to get some extra leverage because these thing are usually in there a lot of torque. I am pulling hard here, but I'm also pulling in a controlled manner and I'm going slowly. It's probably not as hard as it looks. With a breaker bar, it takes some force, but it's very doable. I'll speed up here again, I'm going to do it with a few turns with the breaker bar, and then I'll switch over to a ratchet. Notice I do I go and turn the steering wheel and just move the wheel back and forth, just to make it easier to get that other bolt. There. Now I'm just using a ratchet. Remove that bolt the whole way then turn the wheels back and remove the other two bolts all the way. At this point, if your truck does have frontal ABS, you want to make sure you unplug the lead, and now you get a nice big hammer and go from right here you can see that the dirt cracks here a little bit, so it's moving.

Before we go to install the new one wire brush after that, I'm just going to put some anti-seize on here, you can just use a little motor oil or whatever. This is just a little bit of - that's a lubricant to make sure it goes together pretty easy, then also, if ever in the future it decides to come apart, it would ensure that it comes apart pretty easy, too.

You can see here, the new hub from 1A Auto, exactly the same as the old hub; everything is going to mount all the same. We'll put the new hub in, and obviously if you have ABS brakes on the front, you'll want to feed the harness through, and then we'll start the bolts and tighten them up. These bolts, you want to tighten up between 85 and 90 foot-pounds.

Here now torque them to 90 foot-pounds put your axle back in. You want to have your wheel turned slightly to the inside the car, just allows you a good angle back here. Put your axle up in, guide the axle into the hub. Basically it allows you, you can see my right here, and it's angled a little down. Having the wheel turned allows you to push your axle down so you can get it in. Then pull on the CV. Get it up and in, aligned and insert your six bolts. Now I'm going to go ahead and take these bolts with my impact wrench and using my torque wrench and my bar to hold it, I'm going to torque each one to 60 foot-pound.

With my washer and hub nut on, at this point, I'm not going to tighten this all the way up, I'm just going to pull in and get it on there. I won't torque this until I have the vehicle down on the ground. With the tire back on the ground, I've got my torque wrench set to 175. Now I'm going to speed through this, we're going to put that cap back on, put a new cotter pin in there and bend it, and raise up the car, take those lug nuts off, put the center cap back on, put the lug nuts back on. Obviously we're going to torque those to about 100 foot pounds, and one other note, if you did have to take your brakes apart, make sure you pump your brakes a few times, make sure they're working before you road test the vehicle. Let the car back down and now you can see here, I'm going to torque the lug nuts again to about 100 foot-pounds.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1Aauto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Floor Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Large C-Clamp
  • Wire Brush

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Anti-Seize Grease
  • Wire Ties

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 14mm Socket
  • 18mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 32mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T47 Torx Socket

1997 - 2004  Dodge  Dakota
1999 - 2003  Dodge  Durango
1998 - 1998  Dodge  Durango
1998 - 2003  Dodge  Durango
2000 - 2002  Dodge  Durango
2000 - 2002  Dodge  Dakota

00-02 Dodge Dakota, Durango 4WD ABS Front Hubs, Ceramic Brake Pads, Full Cast Brake Rotors Kit

2000-02 Dodge Dakota Durango Front Ceramic Brake & Wheel Bearing Kit

Part Details

  • Brake Pad Friction Material: Ceramic
  • Kit Includes: (1) Front Ceramic Brake Pad Set
  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Replacement Brake Rotors
  • Front Brake Rotor Specifications: Vented
  • Front Brake Rotor Specifications: 6 Lug
  • Front Brake Rotor Specifications: 11.34 in. (288mm)
  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies
  • Brake Pad Features & Benefits: OE Grade Multi-Layer Shim
  • Brake Pad Features & Benefits: Positive Mold Technology
  • Brake Pad Features & Benefits: Environmentally Compliant
  • Brake Pad Features & Benefits: Thermal Scorched
  • Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Features & Benefits: Direct Fit Replacement
  • Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Features & Benefits: Precision Engineered
  • Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Features & Benefits: Highest Quality Materials
  • Bearing Type: Tapered Roller Bearing
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