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How to Replace Water Pump 96-00 Nissan Pathfinder

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

In this video, we are going to be replacing the water pump in a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder. If you need this part, or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, and head over to 1aauto.com.

All right, we're going to pop the hood right here. Pull that lever. There's a release right here, if you go to the center, and to the right a little bit, right there. We're going to grab the pop rod and put it right there. All right, we're going to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery with a 10 millimeter wrench. Loosen it up. Need it a little looser. We'll pull that up. Set that aside.

All right, pull these two clips over here. Right here and right here, and there's two clips over here. Then this one gets pulled up from down underneath. Pull up. Pull the air filter out.

We'll use a straight blade screwdriver to pull this hose off. Over here I'm going to disconnect the connector right here. There's a button on the back side. Push it down. Pull the connector off. It's a connector for the mass airflow sensor. Disconnect that. A little retainer right here--pull that off. Take this clip off here, so we can remove the throttle cable out of the way, and we'll take this one off, too, and that one there. Just push it out of the way.

Next we can use a straight blade screwdriver to loosen up the lung clamp on the throttle bottle. Once you loosen this up, pull that out of the way. and then pull these hoses off using some Channel Lock pliers. Just pinch the clamp, and then twist it back and forth. We can do the same for this one. We can pull this box out of the way. Now I need to take this lower cover off. I have a 10 millimeter bolt here. There may have been other bolts here in this vehicle, it's missing some. We'll take this one off. Use a 10 millimeter socket and extension and a ratchet. Over here there's a bolt.

There's one right here. There may be one right there, and right there, and right here. Then pull it down right here. This lower part of the fan shroud has to come off. Take and grab the center right here. Pull it past that little nub right there. We should be able to slide this out. Up here on the fan shroud that you can see, there's a little tab right here. Can you see?

All right. You can push down on that tab, and you can pull out, and it's going to release the lower part of the fan shroud. Then do the same for the other side. A little tricky to get your hands up in here. Let's see. I'll take that and stuff. You can rotate it, pull it down, pull it out. These little clips right here on both sides. All right, we're going to drain the coolant. This vehicle does not have a pep calk on the radiator, so what we're going to do is disconnect the lower radiator hose. We're going to have something to drain the coolant into. We'll grab, grab this clamp with some Channel Lock pliers, and move it to the side.

Then we're going to use one of these picks, like a right angle pick. We actually sell a kit of these at 1aauto.com. You can take, and get it right in here. Go all around the hose. That'll loosen it up. Be careful not to get it all over you. You don't want to take a shower in it. Once that's drained, leave that out of the way. A little bit of rust on this clamp up here. I'm just going to spray it with some rust penetrant, before I try to take off the clamp. You get some Channel Locks to hold it, so it doesn't twist while I'm doing this. Just like this. Loosen this bolt up. As I loosen the bolt, it loosens up on the clamp. Pull that clam aside.

You can grab the upper radiator hose, twist it a little bit. Peel it off. Next we're going to take this hose off. A clamp right here, you just grab it with your fingers. Pinch it, and pull that off. Then we'll pull the hose off over here. That goes to the coolant reservoir, and we'll just set that aside. Next I'm going to take this 10 millimeter bolt out on the fan shroud, with a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. I'm going to take this one out as well. Pull that bolt out. Then the fan shroud should be loose.

I'm just going to pull this up over here. Once I pull that up, then I'll be able to clear this hose over here. Pull it up over here. Gently pull it out. Before we pull the belt off, we're going to take this fan, these nuts for the fan, and we're just going to loosen them up. We're not going to take them out completely. We just want to crack them free. It'll be easier to do it while the belt is still on there. We take our 10 millimeter wrench, get in here. Just crack it free, crack this one free. Crack this one free. Sometimes you might have to hold the belt if it's really tight.

Then this bottom one. Once those are cracked free we can take the belt off. First we're going to take off this AC belt. The tensioner is right here. It's not an automatic tensioner, so it's a manual tensioner. We're going to have to start by loosening this nut right here on the front of it. It's a 14 millimeter, just loosen it about a half a turn. Then the adjuster is over here. We're going to use a 14 millimeter socket, and start loosening it. As we loosen it, the belt is getting looser. The tensioner is going down. You can take the belt off here just like that, and then bring it around the fan.

We are reusing these belt, because they're new. If we were replacing them, this would not make a difference, but we want to label there from where they came off, so you don't put them in the wrong spot. We're going to put AC on this, because it's the AC belt, and we'll label the others as we go. Next we're going to take off the drive belt. This drives the alternator, and the water pump, and that's it. The tensioner is right here. We're going to use a 14 millimeter socket, and a ratchet, and I'll just crack this free. Just go about a half turn.

Then the adjuster is over here on the side. The adjuster for this is a 12 millimeter, so we're going to use a 12 millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. We're going to loosen this up. That's going to bring the tensioner up, and take the tension off the belt. Once there's enough tension off the belt, you should be able to slide it off, and take it off here. Go around the fan just like this, just like that. This one is he drive belt, so we'll label it drive. All right we're going to get this power steering pump belt off. You need to raise the front of the vehicle.

We have a 12 millimeter wrench that we're going to loosen this nut up just a little bit. Crack it free maybe a half turn, maybe a whole turn, that's about good, and the adjuster is over here on the side. Somewhat hard to get to. It's a 12 millimeter. Can loosen it with a wrench, or ratchet wrench. You might be able to get a small socket and ratchet in there. Try it with a 12 millimeter socket, and ratchet. Just loosen this. As we're loosening this, the belt--yup you can pull on the belt, and that will pull the power steering pump down. This is loose enough I can do it by hand.

Just keep pulling it down. All right, so now I'm able to fold the belt up and over, and off the power steering pump, and then I'll take it off the crank, and pull it down. All right let's pull the radiator out. I'm going to take this, these clips are pretty rusty. These are for the transmission cooler. We'll pull these back with some Channel Lock pliers. I'll do the same with this one. Use a little pick here. Get in there and try to twist it. You have to twist it, and pull it out, and put a drain bucket underneath, because we're going to lose some fluid.

Take that, and put that out of the way. You can do the same for this one, twist it back and forth. I got to move this clamp a little more. Now we can pull it off. Pull that one back. For the day I'm going to use some ear plugs, and plug up this training line, and keep it from leaking. Make sure you don't push it in too far. You do the same with this side, and that'll stop the flow of the training fluid while we're letting the lines off. Now we'll take these 100 millimeter nuts off with a 10 millimeter socket, and ratchet. This one is coming off pretty hard, so we're just going to work that rust penetrant back and forth a little bit, because I don't want to break the stud.

We can pull this bracket off. Do the same for this side. We'll pull this bracket off, set that aside. You can grab the radiator, and pull that cardboard out of the way. Pull it straight up. Now that we have the belts off, I'm gong to take the rest of the nuts off of this fan, and pull the fan out of our way. You can use a 10 millimeter wrench if they're still tight. When I get the last one almost out, make sure you're holding the fan, so it does not fall off. You don't want it to hit the radiator, because it could damage the radiator. We'll grab the fan, pull it gently, and you can pull the fan out. This water pump pull will come right out.

Next we're going to pull this bracket off. All right I'm going to take these bolts out of the bracket. It's 12 millimeter socket with a ratchet. This one out down here. I'm going to take this one out. Then I'll take this nut out, this 12 millimeter nut, and you use a socket and extension, and the ratchet. Just pulled the whole stud out, that's okay. I can pull this bracket off. I'm going to take this bolt out right here for the bracket, that holds this lower radiator hose on. It's a 12 millimeter, we're using a 12 millimeter socket with an extension, and a ratchet.

We're going to loosen up the clamp with a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. It's a little rusty, so we spray a little rust penetrant on it, and let that sit for a second. I'm going to hold this bracket with some Channel Lock pliers, we're going to loosen it up. Pull that clamp out of the way. Get in here with our pick. It should remove with a twist. Grab the hose and twist. Use our pick again. Go all the way around, that'll break the seal on the hose. Now it's loose. You just pry it back and forth, should be able to pull it off just like that.

All right we're going to get these electrical connectors disconnected, because we want to get this wiring harness out of our way. This one you're going to push down, and unlock it that way. This one right here goes to the AC compressor, and you push down. This one right here we'll use a flat blade, and screw driver. Push the connector and then pull it out. This one here, this ones are confusing. This one here you take a flat blade screwdriver, push this all the way down. You push down, and pull the connector out. You push this one all the way down. Sometimes you get some sand in these. It's hard to get these connectors out.

You may have to use some compressed air, and pull that out. The same for this one over here. Push down there. You just push this down, and then push down on that. That releases them. Well this one is broken, that's why that one came out different. Push this one in. Push down on the tab. Should be able to pull it out. There we go. You use a trim tool to pull this wire retainer off. Probably going to break, because it's old and brittle. Yup, it broke, it's okay. As you can see there's a lot of sand in this one. We're going to use some compressed air, and try to get the sand out.

That's how you get that one out. That was a little tricky, but it did come out, and it didn't break, which is a good thing. We'll pull this wire retainer out. I can use needle nose on the back side of this one. Squeeze it, pull it through. There's a coolant temp sensor right here. Be careful not to break it, pull that, that slides right out. There's another retainer for the wires right here. Use some needle nose, pull those out there. You can fold this wiring harness over there. Get that out of way. We need to pull this hose off that connects the two valve covers together.

Before I do that, there's an electrical connector right here that goes to the distributor. I want to pull this off like that. Put that out of our way. We can take these two 10 millimeter bolts out. That one out. Take this one out using a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. We can still use some pliers to take this hose off. You squeeze this clamp, and wiggle it back and forth. Pull that off. You can do the same over on this side. Squeeze the fan, wiggle the hose back and forth. We should be able to maneuver this hose out of our way, and pull it through.

We're going to take this AC compressor out next, but these little vacuum lines are in our way. We're going to plop this line off here. It's not going to come off easily. I'm going to use a straight blade screwdriver, try to get underneath it, and pry that out. Then kind of want to ... It will generally lay the way it came off, so it's not that important. You can label it if you need to. Let me just fish this out of the way, and then this one as well. You can use some needle nose pliers and try to work it back and forth while you're pulling on it. Pull that one off, and this one I'm going to stick over here, so I remember it goes under there.

Stick that out of the way. There's an electrical connector that I'm going to disconnect. Just take that, kind of push down on this lock right here, and then disconnect that. You're going to grab this connector here, and wiggle it back and forth. You should be able to pull it off, little tab right there. Set those wires out of your way. I'm going to take these bolts out. There's four bolts that hold the compressor on right there, and then two on the bottom. I'm going to take these four bolts out. It's a 14 millimeter, we're using a 14 millimeter, and ratchet. Loosen that one up. I'll loosen this one up. You want to make sure you do not disconnect the hoses for the AC compressor, because our system is still charged. If you disconnect those, you're going to lose all your refrigerant, and it is dangerous. Leave those connected, and then you won't have to charge the system after. I'll disconnect the two bottom ones. We can pull this compressor off. I'm just going to slide it out of the way. We'll just leave it right there. Then I'll take some cardboard, and stick it in front of your radiator, so that while you're working on the vehicle, and you need to move stuff, you won't damage the radiator like that.

Next I'm going to pull this bracket off. We have two 12 millimeter bolts that we got to pull out. We'll loosen those up. Take the nose off with a 12 millimeter socket, and ratchet. Pull that bolt out, and we'll pull this bolt out, and slide it out. If your stud stayed, then you slide this bracket off the stud, pull that out of the way, okay. Before we pull the crank pulley off, I'm going to pull the upper timing cover off. There's these eight millimeter bolts. Taking these off with an eight millimeter socket, and an extension, and a ratchet.

Sometimes they'll come off with the gasket, the seal, sometimes the seal will stay. Pull this last one off. You can pull that up. There's one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, eight bolts. The reason I didn't take the crank off yet, is because we wanted to make sure these timing marks were lined up. This one needs to go up here, and this one over here. It's going to go up top there. So we want those lined up, before we take the crank off. I'm going to take the crank bolt, and use a socket, a one and one sixteenth socket, and a ratchet. We're going to spin the engine clockwise. If you take the spark plugs out this would be easier, but it's not necessary.

That looks good right there. That dot is lined up with that dot. This one over here is lined up over here. Then down here, the crank is lined up right with the mark there. Now I'm going to take a one and one sixteenth socket, and a numatic gun, and we'll take this crank bolt out. I'm going to hold the crank. I don't think it'll will turn too much, but I have it on loose. I was watching the timing mark, and it's still in the exact place it was when I started. I know the crank didn't move. That's good. Pull that bolt out. Do the same on this side.

Find the hole, snug these up with a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. Snug this one up. They're not really going to tighten up, they'll just keep going. Once you gt a good bunch of turns going, you'll be all set. We're going to tighten down the center of this pulley. Okay. Now we're going to take a 19 millimeter socket, stick it on the end of this puller. You're going to hold the pulley while you're tightening this down. As you're tightening this down the pulley is coming out. You make sure you hold on to the pulley, because you don't want it to fall.

There it is. Pull that up just like that. There's a bolt here, one here, one here, one down here below the crank. One right here underneath all this mud. One here, and one here, and that's it. These two bolts over here are a little bit longer. Get those out, and pull the cover off. Before we take the belt off, there's the tension right there. I like to look, and double check my timing mount to make sure they're lined up in the right spot. That one looks right. This one over here looks like it's in the right spot. Then down here to check this one, we're going to pull, pull this little washer off. It comes off like this, and then there's the mark right there. You can see that's lined up right there, so that's good.

I'm just going to mark on the old timing belt where the timing marks are, and can compare it to the new timing belt, and then down here. Okay, we're going to take this tensioner off. We're going to use a 14 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. We have a washer here, take the nut, and the washer off. There's a couple of washers. Pull these washers off. Now be careful well you pull on the tension route, because there's a spring right here. You just pop it off, then the tension will slide right out. There's the spring. As you can see, this bearing is bad. That eventually will fail, and cause the timing chain to jump, and you'd have a lot of problems with that.

Now that that tension is loose, now we can take the belt off. Just be careful. There we go. I'm going to take these water pump bolts out. They're 12 millimeter bolts all around the water pump. Start with this one here. This one is a little bit different. You want to remember to put that one in that location. Take this one out. Take that one out. You should be able to grab the water pump. Break the seal. Make sure you have something to collect the coolant. Pour it straight out just like that.

As you can see this is our old water pump. This is our new water pump from 1aauto.com. As you can see the configurations are the same. The mounting holes are the same. The spot where the pulley mounts to is the same. The studs, it actually comes with some new studs, so you don't have to transfer them over. It comes with a new gasket. As you can see on the back side, the blades are the same configuration. All this machining on the back side is the same. We notice on our old pump, this one is actually showing signs of leaking at the we pull. This would have failed in the near future. Get yours at 1aauto.com, you'll be ready to rock n roll.

We're going to scrap this gasket off with a gasket scraper. We sell these at 1aauto.com. They come in a kit. I'm going to use this to get it off. Sometimes it's kind of tough. You got to get near the edge of the gasket and scrape just like that. When you clean that up with the scraper, you can use some brake parts cleaner, and a rag, and wipe all the areas. Make sure you get all the gasket material off. If you need to you can use a razor blade, and scrape some more. You can use a little bit of Emory cloth, or some not too harsh sand paper, and get the rest off. Make sure all of that is off.

We're lining this gasket up with the water pump. This gasket fits other applications. We just have to trim it with some scissors. We're just going to cut it right here, and we'll cut it right here, and then right here, and also right here. I'll take the gasket see if it lines up. Now that gasket appears to line up perfect. These little pieces go in these grooves right here. There's one right here. We'll leave those on there. I'm going to make this a little easier on myself, so I don't have to mess around with the gasket. Just on these corners I'm just going to put a little bit of RTV, just right there. I'll glue the gasket on to it. You could also glue it to the engine side if you wanted.

I find it's easier if you glue it to the water pump. Just glue it right there, just a little bit. Let that sit for a minute. I cleaned this surface area earlier, right there, and right there. There was some RTV on there, so we're going to put the new RTV right here, and right here just like that. I'm just going to wipe this one more time with brake clean. It's all set. Now we're going to install the water pump. This is that different looking bolt, that's going to go in there. Then one of these is shorter. It's going to go right there. Then these other four are going to go around here, there, and then here down below, and then those other two.

Now all the bolts are in, I'm going to snug these down, and then we're going to torque them. All right we're going to torque these bolts to 155 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. They're all torqued. We're going to install these studs into water pump. There's two sides on these studs. You might notice one side is a little bit shorter than the other side, as far as the threads go. If you can't see a difference it doesn't matter, but for these, there's just this one slightly shorter. We're going to put the shorter end into the water pump side. Just put those in by hand. Okay there is a mark for the crank on here. But I'm going to make a mark on the side on these two, right there, so I know that the time and mark is right in between there, because I can't see it while I'm trying to put the belt on from the top. All right, we're going to install the belt. As you can se this states a right side cam. The right side cam is actually the opposite of what you think. The right side of the motor is where it would be if you were sitting in the vehicle. The right side is over here, the left side on this side. We'll line this up on the left side first. Then we'll line up the crank down below here. You can see those marks that I made, and that's lined up right with that timing mark, and that timing mark.

Then we can look over here, and it's close, and right there, just like that. That's lined up. This one is lined up, and down below is lined up. All right, so here's a tech tip. You can use some of these clamps, or some like paper clips that open like that. You're going to grab them. You can grab the cam, and that'll hold the timing belt there. We'll grab it right here as well, and that'll keep your timing marks lined up, while we're trying to install the tension here. Okay. Down here on the crank, we want to keep the timing set, so we're going to take a quarter inch extension. I'm just going to stick it right there. That'll keep the timing belt from popping off the crank.

Then we're going to put the tensioner on. I'm going to have the spring going this way, towards the outside of the engine. I'm going to start it right here. Get it on the shaft, and then work the belt around it. It needs a short pick, like a hook style pick. You try to get the spring pulled through. Okay. Now I can grab it with my fingers, and slip it over the stud, and then push the tensioner in. Okay. Just like that. You get that part of the spring over that stud, and the tensioner is on there properly. I can put my washers on, and put my nut on. The nut is on. It's just finger tight, not too tight. I just want to rotate this back and forth, and make sure it's centered pretty good.

I can do this, stick my Allen in right here. Keeping note where it is, where your Allen goes right here. On the connection make a mark. All right, before I make a mark on this, just double check your timing marks. That one looks good. This one is lined up, and this one is lined up over here. I will take these clamps off. Take this extension out, and now you make the mark, and then I'm going to torque this nut. Okay, now I just take a marker and mark where this is. That's about where that Allen is. Now I'm going to torque this nut. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket, and this torque wrench. We sell this torque wrenches at 1aauto.com. We're going to torque to 37 foot-pounds.

While I'm torquing this, I'm going to hold the Allen in the position that it's in, so it doesn't move. [inaudible 00:58:35] good. Okay, now we want to make sure that the belt is tight enough, and not too loose. We want to check the deflection of the belt. We're going to check it right here. What we're going to do is take a straight edge, stick it in between the two cams, and a ruler, and you want to put about 22 pounds of force on the belt, and that will tell you. You want it to be about half an inch of deflection, and this looks like it's exactly where it's supposed to be.

If that wasn't right, what you would do is turn the crank, and then loosen up your tensioner, readjust, and then try it again. Okay. Before I put the covers on, I just want to turn the motor over, and make sure everything is working properly. If you go to turn this, and something binds up, and it's really tight. Your timing might not be right. What I did was put the crank bolt back in, and then I'm using one and one sixteenth socket. Just going to turn the motor. There should be a little bit of tension which is fine, but if it locks, that's not good.

It seems like it's moving properly. I did one full rotation. You don't necessarily have to do a full rotation, but I did it just to make sure. This timing mark will line up here. This timing mark lines up with the case, and then this timing mark over here lines up with the case too. These timing marks will never line up again with these. Well, it would take maybe 80 cycles, so don't worry if those don't line up to the belt. Just make sure they line up to the case of the motor. This would be the back of the timing cover. We know we're good there. I'm just going to double check my deflection, and make sure that's good.

A straight edge there. About 20 pounds of force, and I got about half an inch, which is good. All right. I'm going to take the crank bolt off that I did. I have to use an impact. If you have a way that you can stop the motor from turning, you can get it with a ratchet, but I don't have any way to stop the motor from turning. I'm just going to do it quick, so that the motor doesn't turn, and I don't lose timing, or anything. That was quick. The motor didn't even turn when I was doing that. Before we put the timing cover this is very important. You need to put this washer on. That goes right here. That'll actually keep the belt from slipping off right there. And then when we go to put this lower cover on. This gasket looks okay on ours.

This just keeps the dust out, and stuff. But if this gasket is messed up, you can use some silicone, and reseal it. Just make sure you don't put too much, you don't want to get it on the belt. Stick this back on. Line that up. You have these two longer bolts that go on this side. The longest bolt goes right here. Turn it in, and then this second long bolt goes through here. Then the rest of the bolts are just the regular ones. Putting these bolts back in the cover. Put that bottom one in.

Now we're going to torque these bolts down. We're going to use an eight millimeter socket, and an inch pound torque wrench. We're going to torque these to 40 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. Good. Before we put the crank pulley back in. We're going to take these bolts out. We're going to take this puller off. These 10 millimeter bolts. Yours may be different depending on your type of puller. While you have your crank pulley out, you want to check this rubber ring around here, because this is actually separate from this hub part, and sometimes that will rot away, and this will just free spin. You want to check that. If it's bad you're going to want to replace it.

We're going to install this crank pulley. Just line this up right here. Push it on. Okay. It's recommend that you replace this bolt when you take it out, but we're going to reuse ours. You're going to want to torque this to 150 foot-pounds. I don't have a way of stopping the engine, so I'm just going to use a numatic gun to get it on. Now we're going to put the upper cover on. Again if this silicone on the back side is peeling, you can add some. Just take it off, but ours looks pretty good. Just going to wipe down the inside of this. I washed it off earlier, so a little bit of water in there. Wipe that down. Looks good. All right. Now we're going to install the upper cover. It's lined up. Some of these rubber grommets stayed with the cover, so the bolts that don't have the grommets on, we're going to slide those in those locations. Skirt that right in there, and then this one will go right here. There's another one over here. Now we're going to torque these eight millimeter bolts down with an eight millimeter socket, and torque wrench. Make sure using inch pounds torque wrench, and it's 40 inch pounds for these bolts. Just go around to these. All right. Now we're going to put our compressor back to where it should go. You pull these bungee cords off. It's going to go in this location here.

I'll install these NC compressor bolts. Get them started. Go around the steering shaft. Get the bottom ones in. I'll tighten these bolts up with a 14 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. We'll just snug these up. Snug up the bottom ones. That's good.

Next we're going to install this bracket over here. Just put these bolts in loosely. Get those started. Then this bracket is going to go on top here like this. Put these two bolts on over here. Before I tighten those bolts down, I want to position this hose over here. We're going to go through here down here. We get that hose at least in position. Now we can tighten these bolts down. This bolt is going to go right here. Now we'll snug all these bolts down with a 12 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. This one is a nut. Our stud came out with our nut. If your stud stays in the vehicle, then you would need to just put the nut there.

Let's snug these two down, and we're good. Now we're going to install this upper crossover hose. It goes to the two valve covers. We'll take a lock in pliers, Channel Lock in pliers, and squeeze the clamp. Get it lined up, and push down on the hose just like that. We'll do the same over here. We just apply this. Push down on the hose just like that. Then we'll install our 10 millimeter bolts right here, and right here. All right. Then we'll tighten these down with a ratchet. Tighten this one down as well, just snug. We have a connector down here, you need to reach down and grab. Connect that right there.

This wire is going to go into this slot right here, right like that. Now we can grab our wiring harness over here. We position this clip right here like that. This clip is going to go right here like that. This connector is going to go right here, slide on there. That goes to the distributor, and this connector is going to plug into the distributor. Put that in to place. This gray connector is going to go right here. Is the connector broken? No. Oh this screen thing is stuck. Oh it popped down like that. This green connector is going to connect right here to the purge solanoid.

This connector is going to go right here in the throttle body. This gray is going to go on top, so it clips in. We'll plug this gray connector in right here. Let's see. This going to line up with this just like that. This gray one goes to this line right here, and go under the compressor line. Plug this in right here like that. Right here you don't want to forget this. This is our temp sensor. You plug that in. Can you see it right there?

Plug that in right there. Then this going to go to our mass air flow sensor when we put our air box in. Now we're going to put these backing lines here. Remember this one goes to this back line over here, this top one. Slide that one, and then we'll lock this in right here. Then this one is going to go this purge valve right there. Slide that on like that. We'll slide this in the clip just like that.

We're going to put the power steering pump belt on. Normally you have the coolant can on here. We had the fan off at this time. Make it easier to see. We're going to wrap this belt around the crank, on the back side of the crank pulley is where the V channel goes. Then over here on to the power steering pump. We'll start it at the top, and then we'll rotate it down just like that. We're going to tighten up the adjuster screw right here. It's a 12 millimeter. I'm using a 12 millimeter socket with a ratchet. I'm just going to tighten this to get more tension on the belt. Pull this cardboard out. Slide this radiator down. There's two little mounts that you want the grommets to fit right into. Get those lined up.

Take this upper radiator support. It's going to go on like this. There's one like this. Just go like that. These two nuts will go on top just like that. Take a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. We'll tighten these down. Tighten this one down. All right. I'm going to take a plug out of out transmission coolant hose. Pull that out. Press that on here. Do the same with this side. Like that, push that on. We'll move the clamps. Just use regular pliers for this. That'll be good. The same with this one right there. You can use a little bit of brake parts cleaner to clean that up.

Then install this lower radiator hose. Slide up here, and you want to install this lower part of the radiator hose. Take our Channel Lock pliers and move this hose clamp. There's a little marking on the radiator hose right here that shows that goes to the bottom. It's going to go like that. Now we can reinstall this hose. Yeah, now we'll reinstall this hose. Stick this here. We can tighten that hose clamp down using a 10 millimeter socket extension, and a ratchet. We'll tighten this hose clamp down. All right. Clamp that down so it's snug. Install this bolt here. Install this bolt here. It's a 12 millimeter bolt, we'll tighten it down with a 12 millimeter socket, and extension.

I'm going to install the fan next. I'm using a ratchet wrench to tighten these nuts down. You're not going to be able to get a torque wrench in here. Just do the best you can. Once we put the belts on you can snug them up a little bit more. Next we'll take our drive belt, pull the tape off that we labeled it with. Now when you're putting this one, you'll still have your radiator shroud here. You can sneak it past there, and you go around the fan just like so. You're going to have the belt start at the crank. It's going to come up to the water pump. It's going to go back here on the alternator. Once it's around all three of those pulleys, then you can put it under our tensioner pulley.

Now we got to tighten up our tensioner pulley right here. We'll take a 12 millimeter socket, and extension, and a ratchet, and we'll tighten up this tensioner pulley. Right here when we push down on it. We're looking for about a quarter inch of deflection. That is probably about good there. If you find that the belts squeal, you may want to tighten it up a little bit more, and you may have to tighten it if they stretch a little bit. Now we'll tighten this bolt up for the tensioner. Lock that down. It's pretty good, and tight.

Now we'll take our AC belt that we labeled. We're going to slip it over the fan. It's going to go around the crank down below. It's going to come up, around, and on the compressor, then up and over the tensioner. It slipped off the crank, just like that. Now we're going to tighten the tensioner right here with this adjuster, and you need a 14 millimeter socket, and an extension, and a ratchet. We'll tighten this up. Make sure it's around your pulleys in all the grooves. The same here. We're looking for about a quarter inch of deflection. So we'll tighten this a little more. That's about good. We'll give it one more turn. All right.

Now we'll tighten this nut down. That's snug. Now if any of these end up squealing, or loosen up in a couple days of driving, then just snug them up a little more. After you install the belt, you're going to want to tighten these nuts up to the fan. Get in there with your 10 millimeter wrench, and make sure those are snug.

Now we're going to put our radiator fan shroud on. We're going to slide this over. It's a little bit tight over here. Just snug it under here just like that. There's some pins that lines up down here, and the same on the other side. Make sure that's in, and then we'll put the two bolts in. Take this bolt right here, and this one right here. We'll tighten these two up with a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. Same with this one. We'll put this hose on, the upper radiator hose. Get this clamp lined up. Use a 10 millimeter ratchet, and tighten this down.

Make sure that's snug. Pull this throttle cable down. Click that in place, and then this goes in over here like that. Take the air filter, put the air filter back in. Then take the air box, it's going to slide in under here. There we go. Click that in there. Click this in here. Click this right here, and click this one right here. We'll click this hose on here. There's another coolant hose. This goes to your over flow. It gets clicked in over here, here, push down there. Then this is going to go right here. Connect that snorkel to the throttle body, and these two little breather holes, breather hoses. I'm going to grab my pliers, squeeze this, and then we can put that on there, and this one can go on here.

Move this clamp with my Channel Lock pliers. Push that on. We'll take this and tighten that up right here. Tighten this up, one clamp up with an eight millimeter socket, and a ratchet, and an extension. Make sure it's all the way down. Looks good. Snug that up. This goes underneath this clip just like that. This wire right here goes over to here. This clip wasn't broken it would secure right there, and then this plugs in to the mass air flow sensor like that.

Now we're going to put this lower fan shroud on. Get this lined up here. Get the top part lined up, and that'll clip in. This will clip in, and then this one should clip in. It's locked in, make sure that tab is in there. Looks good. Put this lower shield back up. This shield does not have all the bolts, so we may have more than what we have here. We may have bolts there, there, and there. This one does not have those bolts.

Good. Now I'm going to connect the negative post to the battery. Tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. Okay. Now we're going to want to add our coolant. You can use a funnel to add your 50/50 mix of coolant in there. We're going to fill it up, and then bleed it. Whenever you replace any internal engine components, or you're draining the coolant for any reason, you're going to want to add your coolant here in to the radiator. You cannot add the coolant just in the reservoir, because the engine will not get any of the coolant, so add it to the reservoir. If you're checking your engine coolant on a regular basis, you can just check the reservoir and top that off.

We're going to add our 50/50 mix of coolant, and water. As we're adding this, it's a good idea to look underneath the vehicle, and check and see if there's anything leaking out. Ours looks good. Okay, so there is some air in this system still, even though we have this coolant all the way filled. The radiator is full of coolant. The engine still has some air pockets in it. What we're going to do is we're going to start the vehicle, and let the engine run for about 10 minutes. We let the vehicle run for about 10 minutes. As you can see the coolant temperature, we want to keep monitoring it while we're letting it run.

We want it about half way in between the cold and the hot. This vehicle doesn't have temperature readings, so you just have to use your best judgment. If you start seeing it go up to about 3/4 above, not in the half way mark. You're going to want to stop, shut the vehicle off, let the vehicle cool down, and then re-bleed it. Recheck your levels, and start over.

All right we let the engine run for about 10 minutes. The engine got up to operating temperature, and the thermostat opened, and all the air blended out of the engine, and came out our funnel. Everything is all bled, and everything is good. At this point, what I'm going to do is with this funnel, stick this plug in here, and then I can pull the funnel up, and make sure the level is right up to the top of the radiator. With the engine still hot, I will put the radiator cap on, and we will let the engine cool down. We are going to want to check before we just let it cool down, the coolant reservoir, and make sure the coolant reservoir has enough coolant in it. I like to go about an inch above the fill line when doing this procedure, because it is going to suck back in some more coolant, and then you can adjust it once the engine is cool.

I'm going to add this coolant to the reservoir. If you don't have one of these funnels that's okay when you're bleeding the system. You can leave the radiator cap off while you're running the engine. You're just going to have to monitor it closely, so that you don't lose coolant. You're going to have to stand here with your coolant bottle, and keep adding coolant. If it starts coming out, then shut the engine off, and start the bleed procedure again.

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Tools needed for replacement:

    Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Sockets - Metric

  • Complete Metric Socket Set

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 14mm Wrench
  • 10mm Wrench

2000 - 2004  Nissan  Xterra
1999 - 2004  Nissan  Frontier
1996 - 2000  Nissan  Pathfinder
1997 - 2000  Infiniti  QX4

96-00 Pathfinder; 97-00 QX4; 99-04 Frontier; 00-04 Xterra w/3.3L Water Pump

Nissan Infiniti Engine Water Pump TRQ

This part replaces:

  • Hollander 324-58387, 58499, 58517, 58536
  • OE # 210100W003
  • TRQ WPA07387
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