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How to Replace Water Pump 07-09 Toyota FJ

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How to Replace Water Pump 07-09 Toyota FJ

Created on: 2019-08-13

Check out this video to learn how to replace the water pump in your 07-09 Toyota FJ Cruiser. 1A Auto shows you how to do it yourself and save money!

  1. step 1 :Removing the Coolant Reservoir
    • Remove the four 12 mm bolts to remove the rearward skidplate
    • Remove the four 12 mm bolts to remove the forward skidplate
    • Open the radiator petcock to drain the coolant into a drain pan
    • Remove the radiator cap
    • Remove the two 10 mm nuts to remove the engine cover
    • Remove the push pin retainers to remove the radiator cover
    • Remove the coolant reservoir cap
    • Remove the three 10 mm bolts to remove the coolant reservoir
  2. step 2 :Removing the Radiator Fan and Shroud
    • Loosen the upper radiator hose clamp, and remove the hose from the radiator
    • Loosen the upper radiator hose clamp, and remove the hose from the coolant inlet
    • Loosen the four 12 mm nuts securing the fan to the water pump pulley
    • Use a 14 mm socket to twist the serpentine belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve belt tension
    • Remove the serpentine belt from whichever pulley is easiest to reach
    • Release the belt tensioner
    • Remove the four 12 mm nuts securing the fan to the water pump pulley
    • Separate the fan assembly from the water pump pulley
    • Remove the hoses from the retaining bracket on the driver side of the fan shroud
    • Remove the two 10 mm fan shroud bolts
    • Remove the fan shroud and fan assembly
  3. step 3 :Removing the Tensioner Assembly
    • Loosen the hose clamp to remove the hose from the thermostat housing
    • Remove the serpentine belt
    • Remove the water pump pulley
    • Remove the 14 mm bottom alternator bolt
    • Remove the 10 mm AC line bracket bolt below the crank pulley
    • Remove the three 12 mm AC condenser bolts
    • You may need to remove the driver side wheel to reach the third AC compressor bolt
    • The AC condenser should not be removed
    • Remove the 14 mm upper alternator bolt
    • The alternator does not need to be fully removed
    • Remove the five 14 mm belt tensioner assembly bolts
    • As you remove the bolts, insert them into the corresponding position on the replacement tensioner assembly to maintain the correct position
    • Remove the belt tensioner assembly
  4. step 4 :Removing the Coolant Inlet
    • Remove the 14 mm bolt to remove each of the idler pulleys
    • Release the lever latches to remove the air filter box
    • Disconnect the MAF electrical connector
    • Pry off the MAF wiring harness retaining clips
    • Loosen the clamp to remove the hose from the front of the air box
    • Remove the three 10 mm bolts to raise the air box and set it aside
    • Loosen the hose clamps to disconnect the five small hoses from the coolant inlet
    • Remove the seven 10 mm coolant inlet bolts
    • Remove the coolant inlet
  5. step 5 :Removing the Water Pump
    • Too keep track of bolt locations, as you remove each water pump bolt, place it in the corresponding hole on the new water pump
    • Remove the nine 12 mm water pump bolts
    • Remove the seven 10 mm water pump bolts
    • Remove the water pump
  6. step 6 :Installing the Water Pump
    • Clean the water pump mounting surface with a razor blade
    • Align the water pump with the mounting gasket and the mounting surface
    • Install all 10 mm and 12 mm water pump bolts by hand
    • Tighten all the water pump bolts just bottomed out
    • Torque the 10 mm bolts to 80 in-lb
    • Torque the 12 mm bolts to 17 ft-lb
    • Install the water pump pulley studs, then tighten the studs by tightening together two nuts to turn the stud
  7. step 7 :Installing the Coolant Inlet
    • Install the rubber gasket on the inlet tube if it came off
    • Install the gasket on the outlet of the water pump
    • Clean the mounting surface of the inlet assembly
    • Install the inlet assembly onto the inlet tube
    • Install the five 10 mm coolant inlet bolts
    • Torque the 10 mm coolant inlet bolts to 80 in-lb
    • Reconnect and clamp the five hoses to the inlet assembly
    • Set the air box in position and connected to the throttle body
    • Install the three 10 mm air box bolts
    • Tighten the throttle body hose clamp
    • Reconnect the air hose to the air box and secure it with the clamp
    • Install the air filter box, setting the rear tabs first, then securing it with the level latches
    • Reconnect the MAF electrical connector, and return the wiring retaining clips
    • Install the two idler pulleys with the 14 mm bolts
    • Torque the two 14 mm idler pulley bolts to 29 in-lb
  8. step 8 :Installing the Tensioner Assembly
    • Install the belt tensioner assembly
    • Install the five 14 mm belt tensioner assembly bolts
    • Position the alternator and install the top 14 mm alternator bolt
    • Align the bottom of the alternator and install the bottom 14 mm bolt
    • Reposition the AC condenser and install the three 12 mm bolts
    • Reinstall the 10 mm AC line bracket bolt
    • Position the water pump pulley onto the water pump studs
    • Reposition the serpentine belt without tightening it
    • Install the lower radiator hose onto the thermostat housing and secure it with the clamp
  9. step 9 :Installing the Radiator Fan and Shroud
    • Reposition the fan and fan shroud
    • Install the fan assembly onto the water pump studs
    • Install the four 12 mm fan bolts
    • Use a 14 mm socket to twist the serpentine belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve belt tension
    • Set the serpentine belt on the remaining pulley
    • Release the belt tensioner
    • Apply additional pressure on the belt by turning the tensioner clockwise
    • Tighten the 12 mm fan nuts while maintaining pressure on the belt
    • Seat the fan shroud into the radiator mounting tabs
    • Install the two 10 mm fan shroud bolts
    • Reinstall the hose retaining bracket into the fan shroud
    • Reinstall the radiator cover and secure it with the push pin retainers
    • Reconnect the upper radiator hose to the inlet assembly
    • Reconnect the upper radiator hose to the radiator
    • Reposition the upper radiator hose clamp using the grooves in the hose to guide its placement
  10. step 10 :Installing the Coolant Reservoir
    • Reposition the coolant reservoir
    • Reinstall the three 10 mm reservoir bolts
    • Install the reservoir cap and connect the hose to the radiator
    • Install the engine cover inserting the rear tabs first and then lowering it
    • Secure the engine cover with the two 10 mm nuts
    • Position the rearward skidplate using the mounting hooks
    • Install the four 12 mm skidplate bolts
    • Position the forward skidplate using the mounting hooks
    • Install the four 12 mm skidplate bolts
  11. step 11 :Refilling the Coolant
    • Refill the coolant system using a coolant funnel
    • Run the engine until the fan comes on to fully burp the coolant
    • Remove the coolant funnel, and close the radiator cap
    • Fill the coolant reservoir to the max line
  12. step 12 :Installing the Wheel
    • Slide the wheel onto the wheel studs
    • Replace and tighten the 21 mm lug nuts by hand
    • Lower the vehicle with minimal weight on the wheel
    • Torque the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb in a crossing pattern
    • Lower the vehicle completely

Tools needed for replacement

  • General Tools

    Jack Stands

    Floor Jack

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

    Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions

    Torque Wrench

    Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

    Pry Bar

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

    12mm Socket

    14mm Socket

    19mm Socket

    10mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

    Trim Tool Set

    Coolant Funnel Set

Installation Video
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Hey friends. It's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, I'm working on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, and I'm going to be replacing the water pump. It's going to be a fairly easy job. I want to be the one that shows you how to do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.

Okay, going to remove both these skid plates, using my 12-millimeter. You can use a ratchet. You can use an airgun, whatever you have access to. Obviously, air gun's a little bit quicker. There's four bolts, so I got three of them. I'm going to have one left here, so that means the skid plate's going to be ready to come down. So, I'm going to get ready to hold that as soon as I get this on. There they are. Grab the skid plate. Get that out of the way. We'll set it aside.

We'll do the forward skid plate now. There should be four bolts in this as well. One here, one there, one should be there. It's imaginary. One there, also imaginary. On the front of this, it has little hooks that go into the frame. Right here is one, and then the other one's right here. What you would do is you would start with the forward ones, take those out. Then you work your way to these, okay? Once you remove these, the skid plate come down this way towards you or towards the front, so you want to be careful for your face, but the hooks are going to make it so it can't completely fall straight down.

Okay, bring it down and then slide it out towards the front of the vehicle. Should want to slide right out here. Let's get this hook off of there. There it is. So here's the hooks I was talking about, and they just go right up inside here. Okay, now that we've removed the skid plate, we can access the petcock, which is right here. This is the drain for your cooling system. You want to, of course, make sure you drain it into a proper recycling receptacle, so you can dispose of it properly. Wear your safety glasses and your hand protection.

I'm just going to go ahead and turn that to the left till fluid starts coming out. There we are. All right, we'll let that completely drain out, and then we can continue with our service from the top. Okay, now that we've got that draining, I'm just going to open up this radiator cap right here. We'll take a look at it. This one looks like it's original. It's been on there for a while. I'm going to go ahead and replace this. I'll set this aside for now though.

So, now, I'm going to remove the cover right here. I'm going to use a 10-millimeter. Just set those aside. Lift this up. Pull it towards you. Slides right off. We'll set this aside. Okay, next step, we're going to remove these little push clips. Something as simple as a small pocket screwdriver will do that. What you do is you lift up the center part. That unlocks these ears. Then you can slide it up. We'll set that aside. Do the same for all these push clips. Here we are. All the push clips. Grab this out of the way. We'll set it aside.

All right. Get this off of here. That gives us access to get to right here. Use a 10 millimeter. One bolt. Set this aside. Grab this one. Bolt number two, same as number one. Set it aside. Got our last bolt right over here, and continuing with our 10-millimeter. Number three, same as the other two. Can't mix those up. Grab our reservoir. We'll set this aside.

We're just going to remove this hose. There we are. Set this aside. We're going to remove this clamp right here. Shake it around a little bit. Gets break free. These pliers are great, except getting the exact right size for things sometimes can be a pain. Slide it down the hose. You're going to grab your hose for a little wiggle. If it doesn't seem like it wants to break free... This one almost looks like it will. Yep, it's coming off. We'll set that aside. Check your hose. Make sure you don't see any dry rock cracks in there when you squeeze it, so it still looks decent. Set it aside.

I'm just going to grab this clamp with some straight pliers. It's easier to get to. Slide it down the hose. Here we are. Can grasp our hose. See if we can give it a twist. Okay, so it's not coming off at this point. You can do something like grab it with some pliers. Carefully try to break it free. If it doesn't seem like it wants to come free like that, and you don't want to tear the hose because you've got teeth on your pliers or something like this, or even if you have a little hose pick, a lot of times those come in handy because you just essentially slide it along the metal here and between the metal and the hose. That helps break it free. You just run it along.

Want to be careful not to poke any holes in your hose whether you're using one of the hose picks or the small screwdriver. Here we are. We've removed our upper radiator hose. Okay, so what we're going to do now, we're going to try to remove these nuts right here. What I'm going to do first though is I'm just going to try to loosen them all up. Once I loosen them all up, I'm going to remove the serpentine belt. These right here are 12-millimeter nuts, so you just take your wrench while the belt's still on, set it on there. Just give it a little shake to break it free.

If you go slow, it's just probably going to spin the pulley, so you just got to really jam onto it. Try to snap it free, okay? Like I said, you don't want to fully remove these nuts. If you fully remove the nuts, the pulley's going to be able to shift, and it might throw the belt off, so keep that in mind. Okay, we got all four of those loose. Now, we're going to go ahead and remove the serpentine belt. We'll get that out of the way, and we can continue.

Okay, so to get to the tensioner pulley, which is located directly to the driver's side of the water pump pulley or the fan clutch pulley. I'm just going to go right here with your 14-millimeter socket and lift up on it. That relieves tension on the belt. Take the belt off of whichever pulley you can easily reach. For me, it was the power steering pump. We'll get our tool out of here. Okay, so now we have no tension on this. We can go ahead and take out all four of these bolts or nuts, I mean. That's what they look like. We'll remove all these. We'll move on to the next step. Get our last nut off of here. We'll set it aside with the other three. Now, we can grab our assembly, pull it right off. There we are. Set the fan aside. Here it is. Cool. Now, we'll move on to the next step.

We'll just remove this right here. That makes it so these hoses will come off of the fan shroud. There we are. Now, those won't be holding us up. We're going to remove the 10-millimeter right here. That's what it looks like. We'll set this aside. We're going to remove the 10-millimeter on the other side of the engine or the other side of the radiator. See if I can move this. Same as the first. We'll put both of those together. Would be easy to remember how they go together.

We can grab our fan shroud and our fan assembly. We're going to pull them both up at the same time. Pull our fan assembly out. Here we are. there's our fan assembly. Okay, grab the shroud. We'll remove that. easy peasy. I'm just going to use something as simple as pliers. Grab onto the clamp. Slide it down the hose like I said. There we are. You can see the markings where the clamp was. When we go to put the clamp back on, you want to try to line it back up where you got it.

Now, if you've got these type of pliers, you can carefully try to shake the hose around a little bit. We just want to break it free from the thermostat housing. It's been on there for quite a while. It's happy there, but it's time for it to move for a couple of minutes. When we remove this, there might still be some coolant, so you want to make sure you're wearing hand protection and keep your mouth closed just in case.

Nice. We'll move that lower hose. Okay, so let's get this belt completely off of here. Just going to grab it. Take it like that. It's a good idea to have a picture of the way that this was on prior to taking it off. It's going to be a little easier. We'll get that pulley off of there. Ooh, nasty. Talk about that in a second. There's our serpentine belt. Cool. Okay, so this is the backside of the water pump pulley right here. All these pink crusties that you see all around everywhere, and even the muck that's in there, that's from coolant, okay?

When the coolant dries up, turns into crusties. We got it all along the bottom side of the water pump there. This water pump is definitely no good. That means leaking out of a seal, and under pressure. The coolant seeping out, so we're going to go ahead and replace this water pump. So, right down here, let's see if I can find it. Right in there, that's our bolt that we're going to remove that I was telling you that goes to the bottom of the alternator. 14-millimeter with an extension. Three-eights ratchet will get it done. You can use an air gun if that's what your preference is. It's completely up to you. Okay, get this bolt out of here. That's what it looks like. We'll put this aside safely, and we'll move along.

Right here, we have a little 10-millimeter headed bolt. That just holds this AC line in, so it's nice and secure, can't move around, but we're going to be removing the AC compressor or not removing it, but essentially just unbolting it, unsecuring it, setting it aside. So, we need to have more slack here. I'm going to remove this, and that's going to give us some flexibility because we have our hose up there. Of course, these are pressurized lines, so you don't want to put too much pressure on any of this stuff, so just bear that in mind when you're doing your work.

Of course, don't disconnect any AC lines unless you have proper machinery. There's our bolt. There's our slack. Very cool. All right, let's move ahead to the next step. Okay, so the AC compressor, to get it unsecured from the vehicle, there's three bolts. There's one located up top, all the way up there. Then there's two along the bottom. There's one towards the front of the AC compressor, right here, and then there's one towards the rear of the AC compressor pretty much lined up with it. Three bolts total. We'll have that unsecured from the vehicle. We can maneuver it a little bit.

Oh, yeah, 12-millimeter, short extension, and I'm only using a quarter-inch ratchet just because it's nice and small. I can get in here with it. Okay, get that one pretty much loosened up here. I can grab it with my hand. Just going to pull it out. I'll show you what it looks like, and I'm going to put it back in a couple threads. It's nice and long. That's what it looks like. Okay, just going to put it back in. Seems a little counterintuitive, but if you're just removing it, you don't need to see what the bolt looks like. You can just leave it in a few threads, and that's just so when we remove the lower ones, the compressor can't come falling down, potentially hurt our hands by crushing them or anything like that, okay? We want to make sure you're safe.

I'm going to go for the next hardest one, which is all the way in the back there. I'll just reach my ratchet back with my 12-millimeter. Try to get it on the bolt. That's a tight one. Okay, so I get that one loose. I'm just going to break this one for you real quick. Then I'm going to grab a swivel and a longer extension, and I should be able to get that rear one out a little quicker, a different way now that it's broken free.

It also gets nice and loose. I'm just going to get my stuff off of here. There we are. That bolt's ready to come out, so here we go, friends. I've got the vehicle supported, off the ground. The wheel's just barely touching, so the majority of the weight is off of the wheel. I'm going to use my 21-millimeter socket and a long breaker bar. I'm just going to break all six of these lug nuts free. I don't want to loosen them up too much. I don't want to damage my studs by the wheel cocking off to the side or anything. There we are, all six.

Now, we can raise the vehicle. We'll make sure it's safely supported. We'll take off all the lug nuts and remove the wheel. One lug nut left. We're going to hold the wheel, so it can't move around. Come on, baby. There it is. Set these aside. Remove our wheel. Set it aside so it's safe. Right down in here is where the last bolt is. That's a super long bolt. We're just going to leave it in the AC compressor.

All right. Now, since we're in here, I'm just going to fully remove the forward bolt that we had in a couple threads. It's a little easier to get through here. There we go. AC compressor can move around. At this point, you want to be super careful not to break any of those lines, okay? Just compressed gas in there. If you do end up loosening any of them or breaking them or anything like that, just clear the area and call the proper authorities because it is a hazardous material.

All right. Cool beans. Let's move along. Okay, so on the upper part of the alternator, you have a 14-millimeter head bolt right there. I'm just going to put my ratchet and my 14 on there. Turn it to the left to break it free. Whoops. See if that's going to help me at all. Feels like a no. Bottom bolt's out. All right, so it really doesn't look like there's too much holding that, so I'm going to grab my pry bar, which I can from underneath. I'm just going to see if I can get that alternator to pivot at this point, which it does, so that's nice.

So right along the bottom of the alternator, you've got your rearward ear. You can see it with my little green tab. On that ear, there's a little bushing. That bushing right there pulls in and goes up against the bracket when you tighten up your lower bolt. What we need to do now is spray this with some penetrant and then use some sort of pry bar or screwdriver or whatever you've got, and we need to drive that back through a little bit, so it comes away, and that's going to give us movement for when we put the alternator back in, it'll slide in nice and easy.

I'm going to grab some penetrant, and my pry bar and a small hammer, and we'll give it a couple bonks. Okay, so I've got a pry bar, my hammer. I'm going to go right up against that bushing. If I had a shorter pry bar with the hammer tip on it, I would totally use that, but this is what I've got that has the hammerable end on it. Okay, let's see. Looks like we need to go a little further with it, so I'm going to try to come at an even harsher angle here. You need that to go in.

All right. Just giving it a couple bonks here. Here we go. That did it. Very nice. Okay, now, I'm going to go ahead and remove the upper bolt with my 14-millimeter wrench. You can continue with your ratchet and your socket or whatever you want to do, but you're going to use a 14-millimeter to remove this bolt. Okay, bolt's ready to come out. Here we are. It's the upper alternator bolt. It's got a washer. It doesn't come off, so you can't lose it. We'll set this aside. Cool.

All right. Now, we can move the alternator around quite a bit. We need to pull it off of the lower area. If you're like me, and you couldn't get that bushing to push back, well, it isn't the best, but we'll just make do with what we can here. There's wires going up here, so you want to make sure that as you're pulling on this, you're not really putting too much of a tug on anything. Obviously, probably have to tell you too much about that, but essentially, we need the alternator come off the lower bracket, which is almost there at this point. There we are. Cool.

Okay, so now, with the alternator off the bracket, I can see the bolts for our tensioner. So, we're going to go ahead and remove those. Okay, so here's where the lower part of the alternator was. That's where we just pried the alternator off of, right? So now, we have access to where our bolts are. We can see this one, this one, and this one, right? Easy peasy. Then these two right here, they're still hidden by the AC compressor, but if we move it around, we should be able to get to those. I'm going to start with the upper bolt here.

That's all the way up at the top of that tensioner assembly. Try to get that to break free. There we are. Cool. I'm going to remove this bolt. Once again, this is the upper bolt on the tensioner assembly, 14-millimeter. Okay, this should be almost ready. Here we are. This is the upper bolt, goes through the top portion of the tensioner unit. I'm going to grab the tensioner. Just like that. I'm going to leave it in the new one, so I know where it is.

Okay, we have our other two bolts. Just move the AC compressor a little bit. I can get to that one okay. Right down through here. It's on there. I'm going to switch to my air gun. It's just a three-eights air gun. As you can tell, it's much quicker. Let's grab that bolt real quick. There it is, super short. Right there. This one's a little harder to get to. Let's see if I can finagle the AC compressor. Go in over it and right down like that. There we are.

Bolt number three, same as bolt number two. Okay, easy peasy. We have two more bolts left. Those two I'm going to get from underneath, and I should be able to ship this AC compressor out of my way to be able to get to them. Our other two bolts are right up in here. So, to get to those, we're just going to have to try to pry our AC compressor away, so use your pry bar or whatever you've got. Just try to wedge it in there. If you can get it wedged in, that holds it away.

Now, we can get to our bolts. We have one bolt. Here's my thing right inside this, okay? The second one, and come back, it's right there, okay? 14-millimeter. 14-millimeter. Pop it off, okay? Easy peasy. Last bolt, our rearward lower bolt, coming out. There it is. You just have to use whatever you can to move the compressor around to get it, so you can get to the bolts, okay?

We'll set this aside, and we'll go ahead and get that last bolt out of there. Let me see if I can get my 14-millimeter. Okay, there's our bolt. It's ready to come out. It's going to fall. Here we are. Grab our tool. Last bolt. We'll set that in the tensioner. There we are. One, two, three, four, five. Get that tensioner to break free here. Alternator's still resting on it. There we are. We put plenty of stuff in the way here. There's our tensioner assembly.

Okay, so we've got the alternator out of the way here. We've got the AC compressor, so we can move around. We've got our water pump right here. To get to the water pump, there's some bolts that come all the way around. We're going to remove this pulley right here, 14-millimeter. Comes over, comes over around here, and then there's bolts behind this pulley right here. Another idler. Okay, 14-millimeter. We're going to remove the pair of those, and we'll continue.

This is the passenger-side idler. Set this aside. This off of here. This is the driver-side idler pulley. There we are. Set that aside. Okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to remove the air box. This whole unit up here is considered the air box. Right behind here, that's where your air filter is, okay? We'll just set that aside. We've got our mass airflow sensor connector. Squeeze the tab. Pull it out. Check it. Make sure there's no funny colors. That looks good. We're going to grab a little forky tool. Pop that one off of there. Pop that one off of there. Give us plenty of slack.

Then we're going to go ahead and remove a couple bolts. Take this hose off here. I'll just grab my tool. There we are. Cool. This stuff's out of the way. We can clearly see our 10 there. 10, 10, hose. Through the hose, I'm just going to squeeze this. You can use pliers. If your grip strength isn't strong enough, that's okay. I'm not here to judge you. Let's put that away.

Okay, I'll grab my tool, my 10-millimeter maybe. Maybe, maybe not. Just going to loosen up that clamp. Don't need to keep going till it comes completely apart. All it's going to do is cause you a hassle in the long run. Two bolts, exactly the same. We'll set those aside. Try to give this a little wiggle. Here we are. Feels like it's still attached. Got vacuum hose on the backside there, but I'm not worried about it. I'm just going to set this aside. I just need it out of the way, so I can get to all my hoses here.

Okay, so we got a hose here, here, here, here, here. Then, of course, if you had one there still, you didn't take it off, you can have that one, but anyway, let's continue. I'll grab some pliers. Just use whatever you can that'll grab onto these clamps. They're a pain because they got three prongs, and to grab all three of them unless you have super wide pliers, it's practically impossible to line it up just right.

This hose right here is the purpose for having to take off that air filter box just so you know. So, you can thank that hose if you want to. Thanks, hose. I'm just going to squeeze it. Be careful not to damage this right here. Slide, slide. There it is. Okay, I'm going to grab my pocket screwdriver. Just going to try to get right in between here. Let's see if I can pry this hose without ripping it, of course. Once it starts moving, we should be good to go. It's just getting it all to break free. It's been on there for a while, so doesn't really necessarily want to come off.

I'm going to leave that one on for now, and what I'll do is once I unbolt it and I start pulling it away, it'll probably come off much easier. There it is. There's number two. Try not to confuse them or mix them up, I should say. It would be nice if you can put them right back to where they go. That's where they're meant to be. So, obviously, you want to put them back. Grab this guy. Sometimes, it can be helpful to use some pliers and just carefully try to grab onto it, and just give it a little wiggle, so you can get it to break free.

Sometimes, the rubber just adheres to the piping under there. I'm going to try to give this one a little blast of penetrant, just a teeny bit. I'm going to use my small screwdriver again. Just try to get it in here. It's a lot of... looks like corrosion or something. It's very common. But just by working at it like this is going to help the penetrant work its way in there. It's going to give it a little bit of lubrication, and then I can slide it right off. There we are. I should have mentioned that you want to make sure you have your coolant bucket under there. I do, but I should have mentioned it to you.

I'm going to start removing the water inlet bolts now. I'm using a 10-millimeter extension and a ratchet. So, we'll come along the bottom side. Shove one down here. I'm just sticking with my 10-millimeter for all these. Bolt number two. Same's the first. Set that aside. Okay, next one is right underneath this inlet pipe or thermostat housing. All right. Grab this one. Nice. Let's see if I can.. Alright. Got this one down here directly in the bottom. Here we are. Same as the others. Cool.

Okay, starting to move around. We still got our bucket under there. We'll grab our last bolt out here. Got our last bolt out of there, same as the others. Just left that right aside. Just going to grab onto this and give it a loving wiggle here, with a wiggle. I can give it a nice little tug, and the coolant going everywhere. Hopefully, you got your catch bucket under there. Just try to get out as much coolant as I can at this point, and then we'll continue on with the rest of the work.

Okay, let's get this hose off of here. There it is. Cool, so that's out of our way now. Now, we're going to continue. I'm just going to keep wiggling it and pulling. What's going on is, if I can get this hose out of the way, there's a tube right in there, and that goes into the inlet. So, we just need to separate the two. So, tug a little bit while you wiggle. Do whatever you need to do to carefully get it off.

And of course, when you pull and it finally breaks free, don't smash it into your radiator. There it is, is our little gasket. Oops. Cool. All right. There's our water inlet, super fun to remove. Okay, so I just want to show you the brand new quality 1A Auto water pump that we're going to be replacing or replacing with, I guess. You've got 17 bolts going around this that you're going to have to remove. Some of them are 10s and some of them are 12-millimeter heads, okay? So, use whatever you have to use to get each bolt out and try to pay special attention to where each of them are because that's where you're going to want to put them back in.

You've got some smaller holes, some bigger holes, okay? Obviously, the smaller holes are probably going to be the smaller bolt. Pretty easy to figure that out, but we'll just say it anyway. All right. Let's move along to the next step. So, I'm just going to start with the 12s. Let's see if I can get this to break free. Getting my flashlight again. Here we are. What I'm going to do is I'm going to grab my new water pump. I'm just going to line these up as we go. That's right where I took it from. Can't mess that up unless of course the thing falls down and hits the ground and all the bolts go flying, which happened before. But if you're working on your own car, I'm sure you know about that as well. Carve.

Okay, so here's where all the 12-millimeter head bolts are. All along this corner, along the bottom, and then this corner, all right? The rest that we're going to be dealing with are our 10-millimeter heads. There we are. We're on our last bolt now. Here's where the real mess starts. Just going to let that drain a little bit here. Make sure we catch as much of it as possible with our recycling receptacle. We obviously don't want this going into the ground contaminating anything. So, here's our last bolt. We'll hold our water pump. Get this off of here. Last bolt. Set that aside right up in the new water pump. There's our water pump assembly.

So, here we are friends, a quick product comparison for you. Over here, we have our original water pump out of our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser. Just removed it. Over here, we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. It's the exact same shape as the original. Got all the same bolt holes. It's got the area for the thermostat housing and everything to mount onto, very important. This is where your fan pulley's going to go onto with your fan clutch and all that, right? It's all right there. Comes with brand new gaskets, and it comes with brand new studs. The studs are for right along here, okay?

So you don't have to remove the ones off the old one. Come right with it, and it comes with the gaskets, so you don't have to worry about trying to order those. So, with all that said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a quality part to install into the vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.

Okay, so I'm just using something as simple as a razor blade here. I'm just going to trying to skim along it, make sure I don't have any more crunchies along there. I'm going to do the whole thing. Once it's nice and clean, I'll wipe it down with some parts cleaner and a rag, and we should be good to go. Okay, so we've got that cleaned up down there the best we could. I've got my brand new quality 1A Auto parts here. I've got the gasket and our water pump. They both look like they're in great condition, and I can't wait to put them in.

So, I'm going to start with one bolt. I'm just going to go with this one. You can go with whichever ones you want, and all we're going to do is we're going to start them all in. We're not going to go ahead and tighten any of them down yet, okay? Just go ahead and start them all in. Pick whatever you want to do. You do you, Boo Boo, just as long as all these 17 bolts go in. Go with the big bolt. We got a big hole. Let's put this here. Get that one started.

Then come over here. Find another big hole. I just want to make it, so the gasket can't move around too much here. You don't have to use any gasket maker or anything like that on these. The gasket's already made to the way it needs to be. Here we are. Last one here. All right. Exciting. They're all started in. Very cool. Now, we can just go ahead and snug them down. Basically, what I want to do is I just want to bottom them out very gently, and then I'm going to go through, and I'm going to torque them down. All right.

Okay, so, now, we're going to torque these down, these small bolts or the 10-millimeter head bolts. Those are 80-inch-pounds. All right. The big bolts are a separate torque. I'll tell you that in a minute. We're going to torque down all the small bolts, 80-inch-pounds. Here we are. Coming around. Okay, so we're going to move along, do the bottom ones now or not the bottom ones. Sorry. The big ones. Those are 17 foot-pounds, so we went from inch-pounds. Now it is foot-pounds.

Oops. Here we are. Now, I'm just going to go around again one more time just to make sure everything is nice and tight. So, start wherever you want to start at this point. Big bolts, 17 foot-pounds. The little bolts. Oops. Here we are. Now, I'm just go around again one more time just to make sure everything's nice and tight, so start wherever you want to start at this point. Big bolts, 17 foot-pounds.

Get some studs here. Here we go. So these are going to go down in here. The way you're going to get those in, just start them in like that. If you wanted to, you can use a little bit of threadlocker. For the purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it. I'm just going to get these started. I'll show you what we'll do to snug them up.

I just want to show you on the studs, there's a short side and a longer side threaded, okay? The short side goes into the water pump pulley and then the longer side's going to have the outer pulley and, of course, the fan clutch and everything on it, okay? So, I just want to show you that real quick. I'm going to continue putting in the short side into the water pump assembly, and then we'll tighten them right down.

Okay, so now, to continue with this, what we're going to need is two of the original nuts that we used to hold on the clutch assembly, fan clutch assembly. We're going to take the first one. We're going to put it on backwards, which sounds weird, but I'll tell you why. Get it on just like that. We're going to take the second one. Put it on just like this. Make sure that you have a few good threads.

I'm going to hold the backside, hopefully. There we go. Now, I'm going to tighten up the outside one with my 12 millimeters. There we are. Now that those are tight, we can tighten down the stud, and to do that, I'm just going to hold this stud. I'm going to come around here with this one. Just going to tighten this right up.

Essentially, by double nutting it like this, it locks the tool into each other, and then while I'm turning this, I'm actually just turning the stud into the water pump nice and tight. We're going to do the same thing to all the rest of them. To remove it, all you do is hold your inside nut again, and then turn the outside nut to the left.

Now, both nuts are ready to come off. Break that free. I'm going to be removing nuts off of the last stud that we put on. The reason why I put the first one on backwards as opposed to putting it on forward and then the other one is just because I was thinking about this as I was doing it. But I didn't explain it to you. If I go like this, basically, to put the stud on, trying to get your wrench in between those two to be able to hold it, a lot of times your wrench is too thick. So, you won't be able to get it in.

So, doing something as simple as just turning the first one around gives you all the clearance in the world to do what you need to do. We'll put these back aside, and we can move along to the next step. Okay, so it's time to put this gasket back in. You just want to make sure you check your original one. Make sure it's not torn or anything. I used a little bit of silicone paste to put it around it. It's going to go right back up over this tube where we got it from. Maybe yours didn't even come off. It might still be on there. If it is, just pull it off real quick, take a peek at it, and make sure it's not dry, rotted, cracked, torn, anything like that.

If you have access to some silicone paste, just throw that around it as well. We've got that on there now. I'm going to grab my other gasket. This is the one that came with the water pump. Just get it all nice and slippery. There we are. It's going to go in the hole right down here. Silicone paste is going to help it stay in there. There we are. Okay, let's move ahead to the next step.

Okay, so we're just going to clean this up real quick. To do that, we're going to go back to using our razor blade. Be very careful. Of course, it is sharp. I don't need to say that, but I will anyways. Just going to clean up along the area where the seal's going to ride. Make sure we have a nice, clean surface. Last thing we want is this thing leaking. It's a horrible pain in the butt. I like to do the job once, have it done right. Here we are. Looks pretty decent. The seal rides right around inside the center area, so if it's a little corroded up along the side there, as long as you don't have any big chunks that'll hold it up and away from the engine, you're doing it right.

That looks good. I'm going to wipe it down with a rag real quick, and we'll get it up on there. All right, so here we go. We've got this all nice and cleaned up. We're going to go ahead and set it up on here. Get our hose lined up with it. We'll start putting that on there. There we go. Okay, so now, right down in here we have the tube that we just put the seal on. It's going to go inside this inlet. So, I just want to wiggle and slide. That slid right in like butter. Very nice.

So we've got five bolts that hold this in. None of them go into the coolant jacket, so you don't have to add any thread sealant or anything like that. These were the five bolts. They were all the same, nothing special about them, so go ahead and install them. I'm just going to start them all in before I go ahead and tighten any of them down. This is the last bolt, so at this point, I'm just going to go ahead and snug these down.

Once it feels like it bottoms out, I'm going to stop. I'm going to continue to do the other bolts until all five of them are bottomed out, and then we'll go ahead and torque them down. We're going to go to 80 inch-pounds with our 10-millimeter socket. Here we are. Get it on there. Two. Got one right under here. That's three. Four. Five. All right. I like to go around twice when I'm doing this stuff, so why not, right? Doesn't cost me anything. I'm already here. One. Two. This is 80 inch-pounds for our 10-millimeter socket. Three. Four. The last one's right underneath. Five.

Torqued, 80 inch-pounds. All right, so let's start getting these clamps back on here. Just going to try to set it right back to where you got it from. Get this hose on there. Let's see. That one needs to be turned a little bit, maybe. Okay, tight, tight, tight, tight, tight. Let's move on to the next step. All right. Let's get our air filter box back up on here. We're going to slide this right over this. Slide it all the way on. That's good. We've got our two bolts, 10-millimeter heads. One goes down through here.

Let's see if I can get it on there. There it is. Got another one. This hose is going to right up along here, so it goes right underneath. Get that clip out of my way. Okay, let's tighten these up. Oops. Move it up. Maybe see what's happening. Sometimes what happens with these clips is the backside will actually pull out of there. If that happens, it's very simple to fix. You just take it back out a little bit. Squeeze your clip, clamp, whatever it is.

Just got to get the ear underneath there. Let me grab a small pocket screwdriver. There we go. Okay, so you take your pocket screwdriver, and you get it so this is back underneath that lip right there. It's going nowhere. We got our hose. It goes right in between here, right up along there. Here we go back in there. Just give this a squeeze. Fingers, pliers, whatever you need to do. Try to set it right back into the groove that it came from. Tap it there. Grab our air filter box. Slides in the rear side first just like that. Get our clips out of there.

Now these, just going to clip them back in. Mass airflow sensor wire. Mass airflow. There we go. Give a nice little tug. Feels good, tight. Let's move on to the next step. So, we've got our lower pulley here, 14-millimeter headed bolt. Just going to bring it up, put it right into this hole. Put it in there. It's bottomed, tight. Let's move along to the next step.

Okay, so now, we can torque this up to 29 inch-pounds. There you go, 29 inch-pounds. Okay, it's time to install our passenger-side idler pulley. Right here, start that bolt in. Here we are. We're going to torque that down to 29 inch-pounds. Here we are, 29 inch-pounds. So, we've got our tensioner assembly. We're just going to get it back up in here just like this. It sits with the carving... facing towards the driver's side, and that's where the AC compressor is going to sit.

I'll just get it back up into its location. Just have to do a little bit of maneuvering. Move some stuff around. Do whatever you got to do to get it back into its spot, okay? Your situation at this point is probably going to be a little bit different than mine because it depends on where everything's resting for you. Very nice.

So, now, we're going to get all these bolts started before we tighten any of them down. You're going to grab all five of your bolts, start them in, at least a few threads. Once they're started in, you can go ahead and bottom them out, and then we'll try to tighten them up. I've got my long bolt, which is the top bolt getting ready to go... It's going through the tensioner assembly and starting into the engine at this point. I'm starting with that one. It's pretty hard to get to, so I figured, "Why not?"

All right. Now, I'm just going to get the rest of these started and move along. Just keep turning. Just keep turning. That's the last bolt. All of them at this point are started, so I'm going to go ahead and tighten this down. I'm going to grab the torque spec real quick and any bolts that I can reach with the torque wrench, I'm going to do that way, and the ones that I can't reach with the torque wrench, I'm just going to try to get it as close as possible.

Okay, they're all started. We're just going to snug them up. This one. All right. Let's move ahead and do the rest of them real quick. All right. All the bolts are started, so we're just going to go around and tighten all five bolts before shorter ones and the one longer one up along the top. It's bottomed out. Just give it a little bit more, and that's it. Make sure you count all five. That's one. There we are. That's our last one here. Nice and tight.

Okay, all five bolts for the tensioner assembly are nice and tight. We're clear to move ahead to the next step. All right. We have our upper alternator bolt here. What we're going to do is we're going to lift up the alternator, bring it up to this area right here, and then we're going to put our bolt through, and that's going to hold the alternator up and away, so we can get the AC compressor in and mount it.

We're just going to lift this up. Let's see if I can give it a little twist. There we are. All right. I'm just going to grab my 14-millimeter. I'll start that in a few more threads here. We'll tighten it up after. So, right here, on the alternator is where the lower bolts going to go, and that's going to go right through the tensioner assembly, so you just want to try to line up those holes. Just give it a little wiggle.

The tensioner assembly has a block. We'll say it's a solid block like this, right? It has a hole through the middle, but anyway, the alternator has got those two ears. So what we're looking at from the front is this ear with the hole. We're trying to slide it. But if you remember, we were trying to push back the bushing that was on this side, and it didn't really want to push back, right? So what we're trying to do now is just slide those two over, and it's very close. They're super close to where they're going to connect to the tensioner.

So, it's just going to give us a little bit of an issue. We'll give it a try. Just give it a couple of loving box and see if we can get it in there. Yeah, let's do it. It looks like it's starting to go. I'll just show you the ear that I'm going on here. Right up along here, I'm just trying to give it a couple bonks down. As I bonk it down, it should be trying to twist the alternator into its position. If we could get that bushing pushed back like we originally tried to, this would just drop right in easy peasy, but nothing's ever easy. Just keep on bonking.

We've got our upper bolt. We're just going to install it with my 14-millimeter extension and a ratchet, of course. Since we have the other one already started, I'm just going to go ahead and tighten this one right up. Okay, it's bottomed out. Let's give it a little bit. Now, we're going to tighten up the top. Same thing. Okay, bottomed out. A little bit more just so we know that it's nice and snug. Cool. We'll grab that. Off we go. Next step.

So, right on the bracket for the tensioner, they've got these little ears, and that's where your AC compressor is going to sit onto, okay? Once you lift it up into the general position of where it's going to go, those ears are going to help you hold it up there. The hard part is getting it up there. There we are. Now, I'm just going to hold it with one hand. I'm going to maneuver it around and push on the upper bolt until hopefully it goes into one of its tools or its hole, not one of its holes. It's one. We only got one hole it wants to go into.

I'm going to use my 12-millimeter short extension, my quarter-inch ratchet. I'm just going to see if I can get this bolt started. Once I have one bolt started, at least a few threads, I'll move along, and I'll start doing the other three bolts. Okay, we've got a few good threads. I'm just going to get this off of here. Give my compressor a wiggle and make sure that it is actually started in. Awesome. Now, we're going to start the other three bolts.

Here we are. I'm going to get that top one back there. This bolt's easiest through the wheel well. 12-millimeter, quarter-inch ratchet. Just a little here. Okay, snug. Tight. All right, let's do the two lower. Okay, it's bottomed out. Just going to go ahead and snug it up now. Just give it a little bit. Come on, baby. Yeah, tight. Okay, last bolt. Okay, bottomed. A little bit more. That's it. All four bolts are nice and tight. Let's move along to the next step.

Okay, so we've got our bolt that holds the bracket for the AC line to the engine. Just a small 10-millimeter headed bolt. Start it right in there. Here's my 10 on my quarter-inch ratchet. I don't need too much pressure on this. Once I bottom it out, I'm just going to give it a little extra, and that's it. Okay, bottomed. Tight. Let's move along to the next step. Okay, so I just want to show you the inside of the water pump pulley.

As you could tell, the water pump was leaking for quite a while. We got a crusties in there. We want to go ahead and clean that up the best we can before we reinstall, and we definitely want to make sure the surface along the back right here is nice and clean. That's where it's going to go up against the new water pump. So, we'll get this cleaned up, and we'll move along to the next step.

Okay, so we got the inside of the pulley cleaned up as well as we can. You don't have to spend all day doing it or anything, but as long as you don't have too much crusties in there, and the area where it connects to the water pump is nice and clean, you're doing all right. Something else to pay attention to is the ribbed area of the pulleys. A lot of times, you'll see some gunk in there, okay? Just use a small brush like this and a little bit of parts cleaner. Generally speaking, you can get the majority of it out of there. As long as it's clean for the most part, of course, wear some safety glasses and everything, you're doing all right.

If you have any big chunks of anything in there, you want to make sure you get them out. You're also going to check the rest of your pulleys. Anything that has the ribbed areas like these right here, you can see it's got crud in there. Falls in when we're working. You want to make sure you get it out of there, okay? So, any of these pulleys that have ribs, just make sure you get out as much crud as possible. I'm going to go ahead and do that real quick, and then we'll move along to the next step.

So we'll just get this on here just like that. We'll have it set in there. Okay, so we got the belt coming around, goes around this pulley right here, idler. Underneath the water pump, a pulley up over the top of this idler, around your power steering, and then up completely over the top and over. For the bottom, you go under the crank, up over the lower pulley, lower idler pulley, around the AC, up over the alternator there, and it goes under that one, and then across the top of the water pump.

Okay, so now that we've got everything, so it's semi-lined up. We can't obviously put it on completely yet, because we have to get the fan on here, and then we can use the tensioner and put the belt on. But we got it all semi-lined up, so it looks like we should be good to go. Let's continue on to the next step. We're going to grab our hose, put it on the housing. Here we are. Bottomed out right up against the end there. You got a little rise, and there's one on the backside, so you just push it right up against. You can see the markings on the hose. Like I said before, you want to try to align the clamp up exactly where you got it from. Yep, perfect. Move on to the next step.

Okay, it's time to install our cooling shroud and fan. I'm just going to get the shroud, so it's down in there waiting for me. I'll get my fan lined up. Let's see. I'm going to try to pull it away, so you can hopefully see a little bit. Get that down in there. There we are. That's four of these nuts right up here, so I'll get them started on. I'll tighten them down in a minute. One. Going to use my ratchet with my 14-millimeter. I'm going to maneuver the tensioner, so it releases tension on the belt, gives me more slack essentially, and I can put my belts over all my pulleys.

I'm just going to get my ratchet out of here. Before I go any further, I'm just going to double-check to make sure the belt's on all my pulleys. Beautiful. Keep going with my double-checking here. All right. At this point, without starting up the vehicle, it looks as though I'm on all my pulleys. We'll double-check it again after we have a chance to start the vehicle. We can move ahead to the next step.

Okay, using our same 14-millimeter socket and ratchet that we were using, we're going to go back on the tensioner. We're going to apply opposite pressure. I'm pushing down at this point. That's applying pressure to the belt, and it's going to prevent this pulley from spinning while I tighten up these nuts. So, tight. All right. It's nice and tight. This one, nice and tight. There we are. All four are nice and tight. We can move along to the next step.

Okay, it's time to get this lined up at the bottom. Right down here, you have a little hooky-do that comes off the radiator, comes like this. Then the shroud slides down in it like that, okay? So, you need to try to get the bottom pressed up against the radiator and then slide it down into its little groove down there. Once it seems like it's in, you can just go ahead and give it a little bonk just like that. A little loving bonk makes the world go round. Over here. Here we are.

Inside with the radiator, you got these little square nuts here. They just go right inside these slots. I'm going to go right up in the top just like that. It slides right inside, and that just makes it so the bolt has something to go into. I'll do the same on the other side. Okay, got one of our bolts started in there. Going to leave it loose for the second until I start this one. There we are.

Once it feels like it bottoms out like that, I'm just going to give it a teeny bit more. Give it a wiggle. Feels good. Do the same thing over here. You don't want to apply too much pressure on these because the... Well, the radiator is plastic, right? Okay, bottomed out. A little more. Give her a nice wiggle. The bottom doesn't separate from the radiator. That means we did a good job getting the fan shroud into the little hooky-dos down there. On this side over here, we have that little clamp or a clip that held the hoses, so it's going to go like that. Let's see if I can get it to plug in there. There we are. That just makes it so they can't wobble around, go too far, cause an issue. Let's move along to the next step.

Okay, so we've got our little push clips here. You just want to take it while they're open or the center's lifted out. Push in the outer ring and then push in the center, okay? You can start from the center. You can start from one side. You do you, Boo Boo. Going to put that one there. I'll find it later. Grab that. See if I can push through the center. Some of these are in pretty poor condition. Maybe I'll get some and replace those. Watch the video on that. There we are. Those are all in. You can move ahead to the next step.

Okay, so we're going to take our hose, slide it back on right there. You want to make sure it's twisted to the point that it's going to line back up with your radiator, the way you took it off, okay? This is going to line up perfect. We'll grab our clamp. We're going to bring it right back down to where the grooves are from where the clamp was originally. You want to try to line it up as best you can. It was there for a long time. It likes it there. Let's bring that down. Give it a little tug. That feels good. You can move along to the next step.

I'm going to grab this clamp with my pliers, hopefully. There we are. Slide the hose over the radiator. Try to get my pliers on there. Here we are, and it's over. Give it a nice little tug. It's going nowhere. We can move ahead to the next step. Here we go. We're going to install our coolant reservoir. Just line up the holes. We've got our three bolts. I'm going to start them all in before I go ahead and tighten any of them down. There we are.

We'll tighten these down. Start with the hardest one to get to because why not? Feels like it's getting close. Okay, bottomed. Teeny bit. There we go. Just going to grab the other two. Bottomed. There it is. Move to the next step. Time to install this. This hose lines up with this. Slides right on there. This is going to close right up. Of course, we're going to fill it first, but just to show you, clips on there. Easy peasy. Okay, it's time to install our engine cover. We've got two little hooky-dos like this. One's going to go here. One's going to go there.

This is going to set flat down, and then we've got a little [peet 01:22:05] on there, one there, and we've got one there. Line them up. Bring it down. Line up the studs at the holes. We've got two nuts. Tight. Tight. Looking good. Okay, it's time to get this skid plate back up. We've got a little hook right there. That's going to go right in this hole right here, okay? What that's going to do is make it so if you had to, you could let go, right? And/or you can hold towards the front, and you don't have to worry about holding up the whole weight of the skid plate.

I'm just going to take my bolts for the forward end of it. Got to start it in the hole there. I'm not going to tighten it down until I get all four started. All right. Nice and easy here. Just coming around. Let's see if I can see up there and this one. Perfect. Let's move ahead. All right, so we've got our forward skid plate. We've got our little hooks on the skid plate. They go right up inside the slots, okay? You got two hooks. You got two slots, so just bring it so it's straight up and down. Find the hooks up with the slots.

Now, at this point, you can release the front, assuming you have both hooks there, and you can move along to the back where we can get this in and situated. All right. We need to go up in there. There we go. That one started. There we go. Just going to blast them up in there. Theoretically, most of these skid plates have four, right? Two up here too. So, if you have those two up there, you're going to want to make sure you start those before you tighten these. Here we are go, tight. Very nice.

Okay, friends. So, I just want to show you this real quick, something you can buy right at 1aauto.com. It's a little spill-proof funnel, okay? This is really great because it's got pretty much every accessory that you might need inside of it. Doesn't matter what kind of vehicle you're working on. More than likely, we have an adapter for it right in there. So, for the Toyotas, it's green right there. You grab the small cap. Goes right on like this, okay?

Then, of course, we've got all these adapters like I said. So, if you ended up needing any of those for a different type of vehicle, you can of course use something like that. Got our funnel. You're going to want to make sure you have access to this. This is a little plunger or plugger, okay? Now, what we'd want to do, we're just going to put some coolant in this. This is universal coolant. It's not green coolant just so you know. Looks a little green, but it's not.

Open up our little plunger here. It's going to burp out any air that's in there. We're going to add a little bit more as soon as this is done here. All right, so now, we're going to get all of our extra pieces out of the way here. Take this. Just set it whatever, wherever you want to put it really, so it's not going to fall.

Now, we're going to start up the vehicle, let it run for a few minutes. It's going to help burp out any air that's in there. As the air comes up, the coolant's going to continue down. Once that's done running for a little while, we're going to make sure that the cooling fans turn on. Once those turn on, it should be fully burped out, and at that point we'll be able to move ahead to the next step.

Okay, so this has been running for a while now. We turned it off. Let it sit for a minute, and I'm just going to grab the hose. It's going to be a little warm. Make it quick. There we are. I pushed the plunger down in. That's going to make it, so I can lift up on this funnel, and I'm just going to put the excess right inside this overflow. After we put that in the overflow, we'll top off the overflow to where it needs to be, and then we should be all set to move along.

There's that. I'm going to grab a little bit more coolant for in there. Before we do that, it's warm. This off of here. There we are. All right. I'm just going to grab some more coolant to top this off. You'll be all set to move ahead. All right. Let's put this up to our level there. There we are, just below the full line. I like to have it right in between the fall and the low, and that way there when the coolant expands or contracts, it has space to go.

So, there we are. Let's grab our radiator cap. This back in here. Nice. All right, so we'll get these back clipped in. There we are. This one right here. Just peel away there, there. There should be another clip for right here. I don't know where it is. There we are. Push that in. There we go. All right. Let's move ahead to the next step.

All right, so we're going to grab the wheel, bring it to our leg, and we're going to use our leg/ab muscles to lift the wheel up. We don't want to go like this and lift with our backs, okay? Save your back. Use your ab muscles. That's what they're there for. Start that one lug nut on there, so the wheel can't wobble around very much. Here we are.

Now, we'll grab the other five lug nuts. We'll bottom them all out, bring it down, and torque them down. Okay, so we're going to use our 21-millimeter socket, and we're going to torque these down to 85 foot-pounds in a star/snowflake pattern, okay? So, essentially, just go from one side to the other, crisscross. Never go around in a circle. It could torque your wheel down at an angle and it'll loosen right up as you drive down the road. So, just bouncing around. There you are.

In case you feel like you maybe missed some, or you just want to go around again anyway, just go ahead and go around. Doesn't cost anything. You're already here. Booyah.

Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com, your place for DIY auto repairs, for great parts, great service and more content.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Floor Jack

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 12mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Trim Tool Set
  • Coolant Funnel Set

2005 - 2015  Toyota  Tacoma
2003 - 2009  Toyota  4Runner
2007 - 2009  Toyota  FJ Cruiser
2005 - 2011  Toyota  Tundra

03-15 Toyota Tacoma, Tundra, 4Runner 4.0L Engine Water Pump

Toyota Engine Water Pump TRQ WPA07445

Part Details:

  • Highest Quality Materials
  • Direct Fit Replacement - Guaranteed to fit and function for your specific application
  • Quality Tested - built to a strict level of product standards.
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