How To Replace Timing Belt Part 2 1995-97 Dodge Intrepid

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This is part two of a two-part series. In this video, we swap out the water pump and then put everything back together. I do use fast forward quite a bit and move through this quite quickly, but you should get all the steps that you need to get everything back together correctly.

Here's a quick reminder of the tools you'll need.

We'll pick up where we left off. In the first video, I had just pulled off the old belt. The water pump is held in by six bolts, three up top and three down at the bottom. We'll very much fast forward through removing those. My head's blocking it here, but a large screwdriver, pry the top driver's side of the water pump, and it comes off. Use some paper towels, soak up some of the coolant that's sitting at the bottom so it doesn't leak down, and then just wipe down the surface for the gasket to seal.

Here's a new water pump from 1A Auto. Might as well do this while we have it all apart. Lightly press that o-ring in, press it down, stays in place. The long bolt goes in the top left. This bolt down here what I'm going to do lightly thread that one in. Check my gasket and make sure it's all seated correctly. I'm going to push this one in. I'll push my pump right against the housing. Hold it there, thread these bolts in. Speed it up here as I thread all the rest of the bolts in. Then I'll use 10 mm socket and a ratchet to lightly tighten them. Torque these bolts to 110 inch-pounds. That was 110 inch-pounds, not 110 foot-pounds, 110 inch-pounds, which is about 9 foot-pounds. Use kind of a crossing pattern. Use a 15 mm bolt, pulling your tensioner pulley on. Speed up as we remove that nut and the pulley.

The kit from 1A auto comes with a new tensioner pulley. Speed up as we tighten that up and torque it anywhere between 45 and 55 foot-pounds. Just wipe down or remove any extra coolant that spilled out of the water pump. Shouldn't really be any coolant in there. New belt. Feed it around kind of pull it tight down to your crank here. I'm going to take an 18 mm wrench here. I'm going to turn this cam shaft just a slight bit towards the crank so there's a little bit of a slack in the belt there. I'm going to do the same thing this one's already turned just a little bit. Now it's on there. As our tensioner tightens up, it should pull those both back. My position is that's at or just slightly beyond top dead center, and then my marks here on the cam shafts are at my second mark here.

Kit from 1A Auto comes with a new tensioner as well. You leave the pin in there. Line it up into place. Fast forward here. You want to evenly tighten those bolts, so tighten one some, tighten the other side some, and keep on tightening back and forth. Once the tensioner kind of comes in contact with the pivoting part of the pulley, then you can pull the pin out. Then from there, you want to get it up in there and tighten those bolts to about between 25 and 30 foot-pounds.

Now you want to rotate the engine clockwise. The tensioner should take effect. Basically, you want to turn the crank shaft, which is the lower sprocket, you want to turn that over twice, which should turn the cams over once.

After rotating the engine, I'm right on top dead center there, between the marks there perfectly. And here it looks like we might be just a tooth off, actually. Now, I'll show you how to fix that. We'll kind of speed through this. What you do is you loosen up the tensioner. You basically take, you back the bolts off evenly. Take one of them all the way out, then re-thread it in two or three turns. Same thing with the other one. Now you pull the belt off of that sprocket and turn it just a little bit so you can basically turn it one tooth on the belt. Then put the belt back on. Get it back onto the tensioner. Then evenly tighten the bolts of the tensioner back up and torque them each to 20 to 25 foot-pounds. I'm sorry, 25 to 30 foot-pounds.

After adjustment, I'm top dead center there. I'm right in between there, and I'm right in between there. Use a little old school impact to get that bolt off. Then we're going to put our cask cover back on once I get the bolts out here, put the cask cover back on, start the bolts, and then put the stamp steel cover on and start those bolts as well. Be sure you tighten these bolts up. Be very careful. You only want these anywhere between 9 and 11 foot-pounds, not very tight. You don't want to strip the aluminum. You can see here, even though I used a machine to tighten them most of the way, I just check them by hand to make sure they're on there tight but, again, not too tight. Now we'll put our crankshaft pulley back on, thread the bolt in, tighten it up as much as you can until the engine starts spinning. Then we'll use our chain rope or strap wrench, whatever you want to call it, and this bolt you want to tighten 80 to 85 foot-pounds.

Moving along here, put our tensioner pulley back on. The three 13 mm bolts, tighten them preliminarily first, and then follow up. You want to make sure these are tight, between 25 and 30 foot-pounds. Put the ACV belt into place, and put the grooved serpentine belt back into place. Here, as we start to put the radiator in, a few things to check. Make sure that you tighten the drain, the drain plug, before you put it back in. Check to see that the clips are there where the bolts go through the AC condenser into the radiator. Make sure those clips are in place. Also, now's a good time to replace your radiator fan. Just put it down into place. Make sure you don't get any of the hoses or anything caught down in there. I actually did when I was putting it in one of the, the longer hose, the longer transmission line hose got caught underneath and I had to kind of pull it up and out and back in but get it down and into place. Once I get one side into place I start one of the bolts, make sure I get the other side into place, and then I'll start the other bolt and go from there.

Now we take that bracket that held the line that goes up to the condenser on the inside, push that back over and then put the bolt back in and tighten that up. Then tighten the little nut that held the bracket. Moving along, tighten up the front two radiator mount bolts as well. Reinstall the upper transmission cooler line and tighten up the clamp with a screwdriver. Use a pair of pliers, squeeze the clamp, and reconnect the upper radiator hose. Then if you didn't quite install that bracket correct, like I didn't do, just take a quick second and fix it. At this point, you can put that brace, the top brace back in place. Use my impact wrench just to tighten them preliminarily, and then follow up with a regular wrench to make sure that they're tight, but not too tight. Start in the bolts that hold the condenser to the radiator. Start the lower one on the other side, and then I start the upper one. Obviously, you want to tighten up those four bolts.

Shifting underneath, put the lower transmission cooler line on and tighten up the clamp. Now you want to reconnect your lower radiator hose and use your pliers. Pinch the clamp to open it up, guide the hose and the clamp on there at the same time. You may have to release the clamp and reposition a couple times just to make sure you get the hose fully on and the clamp in the right position.

Long extension and your 13 mm socket and tighten up that tensioner bolt until your belt's at the right tension. You only want an eighth to a quarter inch slack. You can see right here, that's a little too loose. We're going to tighten it up a little more. Same thing for that ACV belt. Tighten it up. You want to have about a quarter of an inch of slack means you can press the belt up and down quarter of an inch. Then go underneath, 15 mm socket, tighten up the nut on the pulley and reconnect your radiator fan. Back up top, 15 mm wrench, just tighten up the nut on the tensioner pulley. Here, obviously, we're going to reconnect the battery and tighten up the cable. Before we fill it with fluid we're just going to start the car up real quick and make sure everything with the timing belt is good. Once the car runs a little bit it sucks in some more of the fluid so top it off. You'll want to keep doing this as you drive it for the first few hundred miles. Just check the coolant every once in a while and make sure it's at the appropriate level. And you should be all set.

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How To Replace Timing Belt Part 2 1995-97 Dodge Intrepid

step 1 :Beginning the Repair

step 2 :Removing the Water Pump

step 3 :Changing the Water Pump

step 4 :Changing the Tensioner Pulley

step 5 :Replace the Timing Belt

step 6 :Reinstalling the Covers and Belts

step 7 :Reinstalling the Radiator

step 8 :Tighten the Belts

step 9 :Filling the Car with Coolant

Tools needed

How To Replace Engine Serpentine Belt 1998-2005 Volkswagen Beetle

How To Replace Timing Belt Part 2 1995-97 Dodge Intrepid

step 1 :Beginning the Repair 0:10

step 2 :Removing the Water Pump 0:30

step 3 :Changing the Water Pump 0:30

step 4 :Changing the Tensioner Pulley 3:00

step 5 :Replace the Timing Belt 3:28

step 6 :Reinstalling the Covers and Belts 8:16

step 7 :Reinstalling the Radiator 9:52

step 8 :Tighten the Belts 12:52

step 9 :Filling the Car with Coolant 13:52

Tools needed

How To Replace Engine Serpentine Belt 1998-2005 Volkswagen Beetle

step 1 :Beginning the Repair

step 2 :Removing the Water Pump

step 3 :Changing the Water Pump

step 4 :Changing the Tensioner Pulley

step 5 :Replace the Timing Belt

step 6 :Reinstalling the Covers and Belts

step 7 :Reinstalling the Radiator

step 8 :Tighten the Belts

step 9 :Filling the Car with Coolant