How to Replace Starter 1997-2006 BMW 325 Xi

What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace a starter on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, head over to 1AAuto.com.

Battery is in the trunk. I'm going to disconnect the negative terminal. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter wrench to loosen up this nut right here. Grab the connector disconnect that, set it aside.

I'm going to remove this piece, I just want to take some side cutters, remove these pushpins. Be careful not to cut them. Pull that out. Then we'll just grab this, pull this aside. There is a couple clips on there. If it's not coming out too easy, just take a straight blade screwdriver, push those in.

Disconnect the mass airflow sensor. Push down, wiggle the connector off, set that aside. Take a straight blade screwdriver, loosen up this worm clamp right there. Just like that. We can take that snorkel off right now.

Next I'm going to take these two 10 millimeter bolts out. You could take this top cover off first if you want to, unclip it, pull that off. Pull the air filter out. But I'm going to keep that all together, use a 10 millimeter socket extension in an electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric ratchet, use a regular ratchet. Loosen these up. Take those two bolts out. You can grab the air box all as one, just slide it up.

I'm going to take this cover off right here, take these clips, twist it to the side just like that. Grab this and slide it out. This weatherstrip might be in the way. It should slide forward. Take the cabin filter out. It slides out as well.

I need to remove these wires from this housing here. You can either take the cover off or you can slide it up right there. I like to take this cover off. Take this screwdriver, slide that off like that, pull that out of the way. Grab these wires, pull that down, pull this one down. I'm going to use a T30 socket extension and ratchet. I have four screws right there. Take those off. It's all lose, just slide this panel up. Slide it out of your way.

We're going to take this cover off. Normally you'll have some little covers over here kind of like these. You just take a screwdriver and pop those out and then there's two 10 millimeter bolts. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and a electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have one. Loosen those up. This is a magnet, grab my bolts. Grab the cover, slide it off.

There's a couple of connectors right here, I'm just going to take some needle nose pliers and squeeze this retainer right here, slide that through. Same with this one. Slide that through. Just like that. There is a wire tie connecting these wires right here. Just cut it, I'm just going to have to replace it with a new one. Take these wires out of the way, set them aside.

I'm going to disconnect this breather hose right here, squeeze these together. You should be able to slide it off. Be careful, it's plastic. They get kind of brittle sometimes. Then we're going to disconnect the connector right here. Just push down on this little clip and slide it out. Just push on that clip.

I'm going to take this intake snorkel off. I'm going to take these two hoses off right here. We can just grab them, twist them, slide it out. You could use a little pick in there if you're struggling to get this off. All right. Just go around like that and you should be able to twist it off. It should come off a little bit easier. If you have hose pliers, you can use hose pliers. It always makes it a lot easier. Take that off.

There's a hose that slides off this intake tube right here. There's two different hose clamps that I have to remove. This one and then one that's further in there, it's kind of hard to see. I'm going to take a pocket screwdriver, slide underneath here, try to get on it and loosen that hose clamp. You'll be able to see it a little better once I get this snorkel out. It was actually a little bit easier to take a six millimeter socket and extension and a ratchet and loosen that worm clamp up like that.

Now I'm going to put it on a longer extension and I'm going to try to get this one out. If not, I'm going to have to use a screwdriver. Use the ratchet, six millimeter socket so I can get this to loosen up. All right, those are both loosened up. Just grab it, wiggle it a little bit, twist it back and forth. Make sure you don't rip it. Slide it out. Just like that.

We want to take the dipstick tube out. There's a bracket right here that has a retainer that holds this vacuum line and then also the fuel line right here. Just slide the fuel line out, pop it out like that. Then this little bracket I'm going to take some needle nose pliers and pinch this together. Push it through. A little bit tricky to get in there. There you go. Push that through. Then there's a bolt down here that's going towards the front of the vehicle. We're going to take a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet. If you have a flex head ratchet that would help out.

I was able to break it free. If you struggle with this, you can try breaking it free with a wrench. It's just really tight in there. All right. We'll take that bolt out.

I'll just take a right angle pick, try to get in underneath it. Just go around the hose, loosen up that seal. It's kind of made a seal and that's what makes it stick to the hose. Now that that loosens, I should be able to twist this. Yep. Pull it off. There we go. Grab the dipstick tube and just slide it out.

All right, we've got the dipstick loose. What we want to do is take this cover off right here because we can't get the dipstick to slide any further up. Loosen this up right here. Take that off. Take this weather stripping off right here. Slide this up, slide this wire out of the way. Oops. That fell down. Just make sure these hoses are not attached. Slide the hoses out of the way. We should be able to slide this cover back. Watch out for this vacuum hose right here. That slides out pretty easily. Then you can slide the dipstick up. It's a little bit easier to get that out. There you go.

I would recommend taking this cover out before you started taking the dipstick out. It will give you a little bit more room in there and it will be less of a struggle for you.

Disconnect the connector right here. This is on the purge solenoid. Just push that little tab down right there. You can remove the purge solenoid, just grab it, slide it out. If you need to, you can use a pocket screwdriver to loosen this up or just pull it. Then we want to disconnect this hose right here. Push down on this retainer. Twist it out a little bit. Pushing down like that is going to loosen up the hose. Then on the back side, you can just twist it or use a right angle pick to loosen that up. I'm trying not to rip the hose. Grab it and try to twist and pull. Just like that.

Connector right here, remove this connector. The little tab right there, push down on that. Slide that off. There's another connector right underneath here. It's kind of hard to see. Just push down on that, slide that out. You can mark all these connectors if you want to but they pretty much don't give you enough wire to connect them in the wrong spot. You should be all set, trying to figure out which connector goes where, when you're going to put it back together. Slide that one out. Right here is the one that goes to the alternator. Disconnect this connector, just like that. There's one more connector down here. This goes to a camshaft sensor. You can disconnect this one. I think we can probably leave this one plugged in but we'll disconnect it anyway.

I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet, take this bolt out right here. Then I'm going to take this nut out, still use the same socket and ratchet. Take that nut off. Right by the throttle body there's another and nut that's attached. You're going to have to go over this wire right here. Take a 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet, get that one out. Once you crack it free you can loosen it by hand. Pull the nut out, you'll be able to slide this out. That should be out of our way. There's a wire tie right here, just going to cut that off, use some side cutters. There we go. Pull these wires out. Then there's this vacuum line right here. I'm going to take this out of that retainer right there.

The connector that comes from this junction block right here, junction the wires and just follow the wire up. Disconnect the connector right there. That one right there. Just push down on that little spring clip. We're just going to disconnect this vacuum line right here, move that out of the way a little bit. Just keep in mind how that was rooted. Set that over there. Now there's a little more room.

Next I want to take this idle air control out. I'm going to use a T30 socket extension and a ratchet. Take these two screws out. Take that out. I'll take this one out. Pull that screw out and then grab the idle air control valve and just pull on it. It should come right out. All right. I really had to force it out. Kind of grabbed it like this and then used my other hand and pulled it real hard, got it out. There's just a rubber grommet that holds it in there.

All right, this throttle body connector right here, we'll disconnect that. Just push down on that tab, slide the connector off. Just like that. Get that out of the way.

We're going to pull the throttle body off. We're going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and an electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one. Take these four bolts out. There's two more on the bottom. All right, slide that out.

Now we're going to grab the throttle body and slide that out. Make sure the gasket comes with the throttle body, or you can peel it off the intake if it gets stuck to the intake.

Now, there's a bolt or a nut that's underneath here, we're going to have to take that off, that's hold this bracket that holds the bottom of the intake and use a 16 millimeter socket, a long extension. Get right on there. Use a breaker bar to break it free. Once it's loose, then I can use a ratchet. All right, I've got that loose. Carefully pull the socket out with the nut on there.

I'm going to disconnect the brake booster hose. Just grab this carefully and pull it out. I might have to twist it a little. You're going to hear the vacuum leaking out when you pull it off. Just like that. Just make sure that grommet stays in there properly. There's a bracket that holds this hose on. I'm going to take that screw out of that bracket.

Now, this bracket, if you're able to unclip this hose from the bracket you can do that. This one it pretty rusty so I don't really want to risk it. I'm going to just take this screw out. I'm going to use a T30 socket and a ratchet. Take that screw off, slide that down. There's a vacuum hose right under here. It's kind of hard to see. It goes right under the starter to this little cylinder thing. You can try to take it off right there. This one actually ripped right there because it's all dry rotted and brittle. Pull that vacuum line up or if you disconnected it from up top, that's fine. Then this little retainer that holds it, I'm going to just pull that aside, set that over there.

On the backside of here, there is a vacuum line with a one way valve. We're going to leave that attached for right now. There's another vacuum line that comes from this side of the vehicle. Just disconnect that. Set that aside.

Disconnect this connector right here. This is another one of those spring connectors. You just push down on the spring and slide the connector out. It's a little bit hard to show, my hand is in the way. Like that. The seal actually got stuck to the sensor. I'm just going to take a pick, slide the seal off and reinstall that right in there. You don't want to lose that. That keeps it weatherproof.

Now we want to disconnect the fuel injector connectors. All right, what I'm going to do is take a pick and this little clip on the injector connector, right there, I'm going to slide it this way, slide this this way, pull the clip out of the way. You might need two picks while you're doing this. I'm going to do all six injectors just like that. Hopefully that sits right like that. The same on these.

All right, all those clips are taken off of the connectors. Just slide this harness up. Be careful of this hose. There's a little bit of insulation on this hose that kind of gets in the way a little bit. Let me see if I can get that past, I don't want to rip the hose. Make sure none of these click back in, these clips back in. Slide this out. Okay, that's off, that one is off. It should all come up.

Slide this out of the way. There's all the clips. You don't want to lose these. Try to get these back on so that when you put it back together it's a little bit easier. Just like that. They probably make a special tool for removing these. If you don't find it on the connector it's probably down on the injector. Just grab a pick, pull it off. Just slide it back on the connector.

Just take this harness, slide it out of the way. Just leave that over there.

Now, before I pull the fuel rail up, I am going to disconnect this cable right here that runs across. Make sure you disconnect to the battery in the trunk if you hadn't done that yet. There should be a cover that goes over this. Pull that cover up. Take a 19 millimeter wrench and loosen this up. Take the cable off. Slide it there and place it over on that side.

I am going to release the fuel pressure. Just take this cap off right here. There's a Schrader valve in there, I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver, make sure you take a rag, it's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing it. I'm just going to push on that Schrader valve and it's just going to release the fuel pressure. There's not really any fuel pressure in the system right now. That's good. We'll just put the cap back on.

Now there's four bolts that I'm going to take off the fuel rail. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet. Loosen these up, just go around and loosen them all up first. Go back and take them out.

I want to pull the fuel rail up. There's a couple ways you can do this. There's some clips right underneath the injectors right there. You can pull those up. Or you can just pull the rail up with the injector but generally the O-rings in there get stuck in there. Take a little bit of lubricant, make sure it's not a silicone based lubricant because you don't want to ruin the O2 sensors but something that doesn't have silicone in it. Let that soak for a minute.

Now that has soaked a little bit, you could even use a little bit of engine oil or transmission fluid would be acceptable as well. It's not going to hurt anything. I'm just going to get a pick, try to get under here. Try not to crack anything. Try to slide this up. Try to wiggle it back and forth a little bit. Pick is not going to work.

Okay. That slid right up. That actually wasn't too bad.

This harness is in my way so I'm just going to move it over here. Rotate this a little bit and then if you disconnect the fuel like right here if you want. You could probably just slide this out of the way if you have the room. There's a disconnect right here. As long as you bled the pressure off, this shouldn't spray too much pressure. It's still a good idea to have safety glasses on. We can push in on the fuel rail, push this disconnect off and then you're going to try to slide it all out together. Just like that. The connector stayed with that. There you go.

Now I want to take these nuts off while holding the intake down. I'm going to use an 11 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet. I'll loosen these all up. I realize there's a little bit more dirt in there than I like to see. What I'm going to do is just cover up these little ports for the fuel injectors and then I'm just going to take a blow gun and blow that out of the way. None of the dirt is probably going to go down these injector holes but just to be a little more cautious.

Now I can pull these out. That's a little less dirt, which is nice. Okay. This is all loose. Rock this back and forth a little bit. We'll just slide it up. This positive cable is going to go through the intake. Just unclip it right there as you slide this up. Just do it gently in case there's something still attached.

We have this hose attached right here. There's a connector right here. Slide that connector out of the bracket right there. This is not attached. Slide it up. There we go.

Now what you want to do is check in the intake valves that are right here through all these ports. Just make sure there's no dirt or anything in there. What you can do is take a blow gun, blow it out if you see anything in there. Make sure there's no metal in there. Obviously you don't want to drop a bolt in there. What you can do is take some rags and just stuff up these holes. You just want to make sure you remove these rags before you put it all back together. I try to leave them out a little bit so it's obvious, you don't forget these.

Your starter is located right here. I'm going to take a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet. I'm just going to hold on to the actual cables while I do this. I don't want them to twist. Break this free. You can use a wrench as well. Once it's free, loosen it up. You can also spray this with a little rust penetrant. Then slide these cables off. Keep in mind which cable came off first. This one and then this one. I want to take this nut off right here. This goes to this starter wire and this is going to be an eight millimeter socket and a ratchet. I'm going to hold the wire, prevent that from spinning. Normally that helps preventing the stud from breaking, if it was going to break. Take that little nut off. You can always take that wire off and put the nut back on if you're going to reinstall the starter. It's easier to know which nut goes where and transfer it over to the new starter.

For this other nut, we'll take this off with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Loosen this up. Take that nut off and slide the wire out of the way. Then I can reinstall that nut as well. Just so I know which one it goes in. I'll install the nut that goes on the main stud as well. Now I know.

I'm going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push down on that little retainer, slide this out of the way so you can get in there better. Take this coolant hose and slide this out of the way as well.

There's two bolts on the backside of the starter. There's one right here and there's one down underneath here. They're kind of hard to get to. You really need a swivel ratchet. I'm going to use a swivel ratchet and then E12. I will move that, if I can get in there.

My E socket was a little too deep so what I'm actually going to do is use a 10 millimeter socket. It's not the best thing to use but it will still get on there. Once you get on there, or if you had a shorter E socket, that would help, too. Then just loosen this bolt up. Once you crack it free, take that off. You can use a 10 millimeter wrench and just work it, just take it off this way. You can use a ratchet wrench as well. It's going to take a long time to get this bolt out. This bolt goes all the way through that starter right there. Then we'll do the same for the other bolt. Make sure I'm going to right way, don't want to break the bolt. That's loosened up.

I got both of those bolts loose. I'm use a 10 millimeter flex head ratchet wrench. It actually helped out a lot. I can slide those bolts out. Try not to drop them. There they are. Now this other one, there is a bracket on the other one that holds the shift cable on it. Slide that one out. That's released. Now gently try to rock the starter back and forth. There is a pin. You might have to spray some rust penetrant on the pin but you don't want to bend that pin. Spray a little rust penetrant on that, let it sit for a minute.

I'll just work this back and forth a little bit. I'm just going to use a screwdriver, get a little bit of leverage under here but be careful, you don't want to snap anything. There it goes. There it is. There's the starter.

Before I reinstall the starter I am going to take a wire brush and right here, on that pin, it's a little bit rusted and corroded. I'm just going to clean that up so that when you put a new starter on or put the old starter back on it, it's a little bit easier going back on. Another thing I like to do before I put the starter back in, check the terminals or the connections for the wires. See, there's some corrosion on there. I am going to take a sanding disc with a die grinder and just clean this up a little bit. Do that on both sides. The same right here.

Before I install the starter, I am going to take a little bit of copper anti-seize, just a little bit. I'm just going to put it on the bolts, just like that. Just a little bit. If I ever have to take this starter out again, it won't get stuck on there. Then same on this pin right here. Just put a little bit on that pin so it doesn't get stuck again. That's just personal preference. With the starter out, it's a little bit easier to see where the bolts go. These are both the same length bolts. Now this one down here, there's a bracket that it goes through. I want to slide this one on first. Get that one started there. Then take the other one, it's going to go over here.

I've got that bolt in as well. Those are in position. It's a little easier to do that first. Take the starter, that slides on a lot smoother because I sanded it down with the wire brush. Get these started, get the bolts started. I'm going to take my swivel ratchet wrench and get these tight. Now, this is a 10 millimeter wrench, it's not the exact tool but it does work. Now we want to connect these connections to the starter. Now, before I do that, we can take the nut off for where each wire goes. You can take the wire brush again and just clean those connections as well if you're reusing the starter. Same with on the nut. If the nut looks like there's any corrosion on it, just clean those up. We actually sell these wire brushes at 1AAuto.com. Clean those up. That looks pretty good.

Take this wire, this one is going to go right here. Install that nut and take this nut off down here. Clean that up. Put this connection right here. We'll tighten those two down first and then we'll put the other cable on. I'm going to tighten the lower nut with a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Just snug it up. Not too tight. With the other nut, I'm going to use an eight millimeter socket and ratchet. Just snug that one up as well.

All right, now we can install this nut. Take this one off and do the same, just clean it off if there's any corrosion. It looks pretty good. Install this cable first. Then this cable. Take the nut, install the nut. Then we can tighten this one up with a 13 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 13 Newton-meters.

All right, when you have the intake off, it's a good idea to look at your vacuum lines because if they're old and decrepit looking like these, then it's a good idea to replace them because they're going to leak, especially on the ends and stuff. Get some vacuum line, this is 5/32 vacuum line. Just reroute it the way it came off. There's also a vacuum line over here. There's a vacuum accumulator over here and there's one that goes from that all the way up to right here next to the brake booster. It's a good idea to check that line and replace that as well.

I'm going to leave these rags in the intake ports while I clean around the intake area. Take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag and just wipe it down. If you have any tough spots, what you do is take a scraper and just very gently scrape it. Scrape off some of the dirt, wipe it off with the rag. Try to keep as little dirt out of the intakes as possible. They do make plastic scrapers, you can use one of those, plastic razorblades. You could use a razor blade if you're very gentle. Be careful, don't scratch any of the metal, the aluminum. It is soft.

Here's one of those plastic razorblades or scrapers, you can try this. These don't work great, they work okay. Sometimes it's easier just to use a real razor blade but they're not dangerous to the head of the vehicle or any of the engine parts. It's not going to gouge into the aluminum.

All right, that's all cleaned up. I'm just going to take some compressed air and anything loose, blow it away. Now it's important that you take these rags out before you install the intake. Just grab some needle nose pliers, take the rag out. Make sure if anything got on top, it doesn't fall down in there, any debris. Slide these out. Then what I like to do, again, is just look down the ports, see if you see anything. Take a blow gun, blow them out.

We want to get the intake ready to install on the vehicle. I'm going to take the old intake gasket off. Just peel it off just like this.

Now, we do want to take a rag and some brake parts cleaner and just clean these all out. Make sure you don't get anything inside the intake runners. A little bit of brake clean is not going to hurt it but you don't want any dust to go up there or anything.

I'm just going to tip it and let it dry.

That's all clean, you can just take a rag and try to dry some of that. Take a screwdriver, get right in there. Just go all around like that. It looks good. Take the new gaskets or seals, install these. These are a little bit different, they're not all connected but they're still going to do the same job. Just match these up the right way. Just like that. Do the same with the other ones.

All right, I temporarily reattached this fuel rail so fuel would not spill out. I'm going to disconnect this now. Make sure it doesn't spray on you. You can use a rag to cover this if you wanted to. Just push down, push down on this. Then slide it out. It comes out just like that with a little bit of fuel. Set that aside.

Before I install the intake plenum, I want to connect this connector right here because it's going to be hard to get to. I'll just slide this over here. That's the connector that goes to it. Lock that in place right there. Just try to have these wires out of the way when you're doing that. All right. That's all set. This is going to go in front. Move that out of the way. You could clip this up there.

This positive battery cable is going to go through here. Slide that through. It's going to go up through here as well because it goes and gets secured right there. We just slide that like that.

As you're installing this, just feed that through. Now we're going to look underneath, there's a couple of things we have to attach underneath here. These knock sensors, we have to attach into that bracket. While you have this up in position, try to get that installed. It's going to be hard to see, you're just going to have to do it by feel. All right. It seems good. Just make sure they're all in there. Then one thing to keep in mind, also, before you go any further, just look down the runners and the intake ports and see if there's anything feel down in there. You can use a blow gun again, blow that out. That looks good. There's a stud underneath here, we have to line that stud up with that bracket. As you line up the studs for the intake top, just like that, make sure you're not going to pinch anything over here. It's looking good.

All right. Underneath here, right where this accumulator is, right there, we need to hook up this vacuum line that comes off the intake. It's a good idea to hook it up right now before you tighten anything down, just because it's easier access. Hook that up, make sure that's out of the way. That's good.

One thing I should have done while I was on the bench with the intake plenum was clean out these fuel ports. Just take a rag and a screwdriver, just get in there and twist, clean those out. They're not too bad so I'm not that worried about it. It's a good idea to do this on the bench before you put it on.

I will take these intake nuts and install these. All right, with all these nuts in, I just want to hold the intake and I'll take an 11 millimeter socket extension and I'll use an electric ratchet just to snug them down and then I'm going to torque them.

Then I'm going to use a torque wrench and I'm going to start from the center nut and work my way outwards. I'm going to torque these to 132 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. There's no specific order for which you have to torque these. I just like to do it from the center, working my way out. That's good. Just alternating side to side, front to back.

After those upper intake nuts are secure, then we can secure this bracket that goes at the base of the intake on that stud. Take that nut, I know it's kind of hard to see. To get that started, take a 17 millimeter socket and extension and ratchet and we'll tighten this up. Just snug that up. That's good.

We want to reconnect this vacuum line on the back of the head, I mean on the back of the intake plenum. You're just going to have to feel for it, you really can't see anything. This one.

This connector right here, while you have some of this stuff pretty loose, you can get in here. You just want to connect this, there's a solenoid on the back of here, a vacuum actuated solenoid. Just plug that in while you can access that.

Now we're going to attach the fuel injector rail. I want to find the fuel line back here. There's the fuel line. Okay, I'm just making sure I'm not going to block anything. What I can do is attach this, try not to spill any fuel. Just twist it a little bit. Lock that in place. That's good. We can slide this back over here into position.

There is a bracket that this fuel line will sit in, in the backside here. I think that vacuum line might be in my way. I'm going to disconnect that vacuum line and then reattach it. All right, that's good. Reattach that vacuum line over the fuel line.

Now, before we slide these fuel injectors back into the intake, what I want to do is just lubricate the seals. It's a good idea to replace these seals or you can just check them, make sure they look pretty good but generally replace those. What I like to do is use a little bit of transmission fluid, ATF. Just put it on your fingers and then just rub the seals. It's a good idea to use either engine oil or transmission fluid, otherwise if you use a silicon lubricant, you're going to cause your O2 sensors to fail. You don't want to do that. Just lube them up, it's going to make them go in a little easier. Make sure those holes are clean. Line them up. Those lined up, I'll just press this in. Just wiggle it a little bit. Just like that so they're down. There we go. There we go. Those are all the way down. Now I can reinstall those bolts.

These bolts, get these all started then we'll snug them down. Now, I'll take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet, tighten this down to snug.

Now I'll take this, these are the connectors for the fuel injection. Make sure you connected that in the back underneath the head or on the head. That's all set. You can just slide this over here. Slide this in position. When those are all lined up, just grab it and lock it in place. Take this connector, connect that to this solenoid right here. Lock that in place. There's one right here. Connect that one. Make sure they're tight. So we don't forget about this, hook this up now. Lock that in place.

I'm going to take these retainers off right here, slide this into the fuel rail first. Then it will be easier to install these connectors. Slide the wires in first and then the connector. Just like that. We can hook this battery positive cable up. This goes from the starter motor. Just take a wire brush, clean this up if it looks like it's got any corrosion on it. Make sure it's nice and clean. Take this as well, clean this area. Even the backside of the nut. That's all clean. Install this here, just like that.

I'll just take a 19 millimeter wrench, snug this up. That's good. Then if you have the cover, put the cover over there. All right, now we're going to reconnect this bracket right here. Just take this little screw here, get that started. In actuality, we probably didn't need to take that off but that's okay. We'll take a T30 socket and a ratchet, get these started, then we'll snug it up.

All right, now we can reconnect this vacuum port to the brake booster. Just carefully slide that in.

All right, make sure you have a new seal. If you don't have a new seal just make sure it's at least raised up from the actual throttle body, which is good. Then also make sure you clean this surface right here. Take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag, just wipe this down, make sure this surface looks good.

Take the throttle body with your new gasket, slide that in position. Take one of the bolts. That's good. Now I'll just take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet and snug these bolts up. Not too tight.

Take this idle air control valve, make sure the grommet is in the intake in the proper location and then we'll line this little part right into that grommet. Slide it in. Take these screws, get these lined up. Then get the other ones started over here. Get them both started then you can snug them down.

Take a T30 socket and a ratchet and we'll snug these up. That's good.

Now I want to reattach this piece but just make sure any connectors you can get, plug those in. This one was to the oil temperature sensor. That goes right there. That's where you attach this. There's a stud right there for that. There's a stud below down here. Make sure you get that bracket on the stud.

Take the two nuts, there's one that goes up here, get that one started. One that goes to this lower stud, get that one on. Then we have a bolt that goes right there. Install that bolt. I'll just take a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten this up and those other two nuts.

For this lower nut I just used an extension. It's kind of hard to get to. Just snug this one up as well.

Now I'm going to plug in the throttle body connector right there. Line it up, lock it in place.

There's a crank sensor connector right here, line that up. Lock that in place.

This connector right here goes to the alternator, plug that in, lock it in place.

This connector is going to go right here, lock that in place.

This connector goes to the idle air control valve right here. Line that up, lock it in place.

Where the dipstick hole is, where it goes into the engine, there's an actual O-ring there. It's a good idea to replace that O-ring if possible. You're going to have to use a pick and try to pick that out. Make sure it doesn't fall into the engine oil pan. Ours looks okay so I'm not going to but if you end up, you could end up with a vacuum leak afterwards or even an oil leak. Just keep that in mind if you're pulling the dipstick tube out.

With a new O-ring or take the old O-ring out of the engine, just slide that up there. You can lubricate this with some white lithium grease or some engine oil. Just line this up in position. These coolant hoses kind of get in the way a little bit. You kind of have to move those out of the way. All right, slide that down just like that.

All right, push that dipstick down. Make sure it goes down all the way. What you could do is take a mirror and just check the bracket, make sure the bracket is lined up with the bolthole. Sometimes it can be tricky, just make sure you lubricate the O-ring. Should be able to get it. Now I'm going to put the bolt in, just have to get it lined up.

All right. Now I'm going to tighten that bolt down. I'm actually going to use a 13 millimeter swivel socket and an electric ratchet. If you don't have a swivel socket or an electric ratchet, you can use a regular one. There's just not a lot of room to work back here. I'll just tighten this up, snug it down. I'll go back with a wrench. Use a 13 millimeter wrench and snug it. You can use a ratchet wrench also. There you go, that's good.

Here's the other end of that breather or the drain hose. We're going to slide that onto the dipstick tube, right here. There we go. We'll just slide it all the way on. It looks good.

Now, I did take this bracket off before I put the dipstick tube on. This is just going to hold the fuel line. I'm just going to reinstall that. Just slide that back into the bracket on the dipstick tube right there. It's kind of hard to see. Then slide the fuel line back in there.

If these hoses got in your way you can remove this bracket when you were doing the dipstick. Just reinstall this, slide these hoses back in and then this will slide right over here. That's good.

Next, before I install this panel right here, it is going to be significantly easier to install this snorkel. We're going to install this now. When we took it out we did it the other way. But it's a lot easier to get this in. Just line this up, make sure your worm clamps are on there. From up here I'm just going to use a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver to tighten up that worm clamp that goes on that top port of the snorkel. Snug that up. Then do the same with the bottom one.

We're going to take these vacuum lines, that goes to the top. This comes right off the intake, right there. This one comes from underneath there. Install that. That's good.

Now we'll take this cover, slide this over here. If you struggle with this, you can pull the brake booster hose off, get a little more room. There we go. Get that lined up.

It's actually one of these push twist retainers to hold this in. Just get that lined up, push it in. That's good. You may have one over here, this vehicle did not have one there. Keep that in mind. We'll take this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster, line this up right there. Reinsert it into the booster and then same with this wire, slide this right there.

We can take the weather strip, get this lined up. Just like that.

All right, take the valve, I'm going to slide this underneath here. There is a vacuum line that you need to attach that to. That goes to the intake. Slide that into position first. Then this is the mounting, this is a rubber mounting grommet. You're just going to slide it onto the bracket. Kind of hard to see. Wiggle that back and forth. This is going to attach to the bottom of the valve. It if makes it easier, you can probably attach this before you slide it into the bracket. Lock it in place. That's good.

Take the connector, this is the connector for that. Lock that in place. Install the dipstick.

Reinstall this cover. Slide it under the wires. This has to, there's a couple clips underneath here that have to slide onto this rail. Let's see. There we go. All right, make sure those clips are slide into position. Take the bolts, get the bolts started. Take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet, tighten these down just snug. It is plastic, not too tight.

There should be two caps that go over here. This vehicle doesn't have them, they're missing. We're not going to put those but make sure you reinstall those caps. You can reinstall the air box, back in position. This clamp over here, install these two bolts here and here. Take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet. Tighten these bolts up. Just snug. That's good.

Use a straight blade screwdriver, tighten up this worm clamp snug and plug this connector in to the mass airflow sensor, lock it in place. Take this intake, put this back through the air box, clip it in place. Take the pushpins, get these lined up. You're just going to get them all started first and then lock them down. Lock it down.

All right. Now we want to install this. Just get this lined up, get these screws started. I'm going to take a T30 socket, extension and a ratchet, tighten these up.

Now reinstall these wires and this cover right here. Just like that. Take this cover, line it up. That's good.

Take the filter, we're going to slide it in with the curved side towards the vehicle. The bowed side more towards the out of the vehicle. Just slide that into position like that.

We'll take this cover, it will slide in underneath this weather stripping. Just push it in. Get these lock tabs to line up and lock them down. They're spring loaded.

The last one. You're good to go. Reconnect the battery. Put the negative terminal on. Take a 10 millimeter wrench, just tighten up this nut. Just snug it up. Make sure it's tight, it doesn't wiggle loose, you're good to go.

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