How to Replace Spindle 2002-08 Dodge Ram 1500
Created on: 2016-07-25
How to remove and replace the spindle on 2008 Dodge Ram 1500
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Loosen the 22mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Pry out the center cap with a pick
- Loosen the 35mm axle nut
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Rotor and Axle Nut
- Remove the two 21mm bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle
- Tie the caliper assembly out of the way by hanging it from the frame
- Remove the rotor
- Remove the axle nut
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step 3 :Removing the Tie Rod
- Tap the end of the axle to push it out of the hub
- Remove the 21mm nut from the tie rod until it's at the bottom
- Tap the bottom with a hammer
- Remove the 21mm nut the rest of the way
- Pull the tie rod up and out of the control arm
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step 4 :Removing the Spindle from the Control Arm
- Loosen the 22mm nut connecting the upper ball joint to the spindle
- Tap the front of the knuckle with a hammer without cracking it
- Once loose, hit the bottom of the control arm to release the joint from the knuckle if needed
- Release the tab on the connector for the ABS sensor
- Disconnect the ABS sensor
- Release it from the clamps under the control arm
- Remove the axle shaft from the wheel bearing
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step 5 :Removing the Lower Ball Joint and Spindle
- Pinch the cotter pin together
- Twist the cotter pin out of the castle nut
- Remove the 22mm castle nut with a 22mm socket and breaker bar
- Place weight onto the top of the spindle
- Hit the bottom of the spindle behind the ball joint to release it
- Remove the Spindle
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step 6 :Reinstalling the Spindle and Ball Joints
- Insert the lower ball joint and axle into the spindle
- Thread the castle nut on
- Install the axle splines into the hub
- Hand tighten the axle nut
- Slide the upper ball joint into the spindle
- Tighten the 22mm upper ball joint nut
- Torque the 22mm upper ball join nut to 40 foot-pounds and add an additional 90 degrees
- Torque the 22mm lower ball join nut to 38 foot-pounds and add an additional 90 degrees
- Insert the cotter pin vertically into the castle nut
- Bend the longer leg down and over
- Leave the short leg intact or snip it off with pliers
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step 7 :Reinstalling the Tie Rod
- Insert the tie rod into the spindle
- Start the nut by hand
- Tighten the 21mm nut with a socket and ratchet
- Torque the tie rod nut to 45 foot-pounds
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step 8 :Reinstalling the Rotor and Caliper
- Insert the wiring harness into the keepers on the control arm
- Reconnect the connector
- Insert the rotor into place
- Insert the caliper to the rotor
- Tighten the 21mm bolts to the caliper
- Torque the caliper bolts to 130 foot-pounds
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step 9 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the axle nut
- Torque the axle nut to 185 foot-pounds
- Replace the center cap
- Tighten the lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Tools needed
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35mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Small Hook
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Bungee Cord
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
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In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the spindle in this 2008 Dodge Ram. You'll need 18 to 35 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extensions, breaker bar, hooked pick, bungee cord or mechanic's wire, a pry bar, hammer, flat blade screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Using the small pick, remove the center cap from the wheel. Using a 35 millimeter socket and a breaker bar crack the axle nut loose. Raise and support your vehicle. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove the two 21 millimeter bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing them. If they are removed fully one at a time, the caliper can twist and cause the flex hose on the brake line to tear. Be sure to support the assembly while you remove the last bolt. Remove the entire caliper and carrier assembly. Using a bungee cord secure it out of the way by hanging it off of the frame. Remove the rotor from the hub.
Brace the hub with a pry bar and finish removing your axle nut. Using a hammer, tap the end of the axle to push it out of the hub. Remove the nut for the tire rod. Take a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. You want to leave the nut on a few threads so that it's flush with the bottom of the stud. Carefully tap up with a hammer. Remove the nut. Remove the tie rod from the control arm. Remove the 22 millimeter nut connecting the upper ball joint to the spindle.
Tap the front of the knuckle right where the ball joint comes through with a hammer to release it, careful not to hit it too hard because this is aluminum and it could crack. Once it's loosened up, you may have to hit the bottom of the control arm to release the joint from the knuckle. Using a flat blade screwdriver, release the tab on the connector for the ABS sensor. Push down and release the connector. Release it from the clamps under the control arm.
Pull down on the spindle or push up on the upper control arm to separate them and remove the axle shaft from the wheel bearing. A pair of needle nose pliers straighten out the legs on the cotter pin. You want to get them as tight as you can and as free of kinks as is possible. It may mean pinching them together and working them back and forth a little. Keep them together. Stick one of the legs from your pliers through the eyelet of the cotter pin. Clamp down and twist it out.
Regardless of whether or not the cotter pin comes out in one piece, you will want to replace these after they've been removed. Using a 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar remove the nut on the lower ball joint. Ensure that your axle nut is partially installed so the hub, once released from the ball joint, does not fall. Put some weight onto the top of the spindle either by pulling down with your hand or a pry bar and hit the bottom of the spindle here with a hammer to release the ball joint from the spindle. Once the ball joint is separated from the spindle, remove your axle nut the rest of the way, release the axle from the hub and the spindle from the ball joint.
Install the ball joint as well as the CV axle into the spindle, making sure that both line up properly. Start the washer and castle nut onto the threads of the ball joint. Line up and install the spines of your axle into the hub. Start your axle nut on as far as it'll go. Lift up on the upper control arm, slide the upper ball joint into the spindle. Pull down until you're able to get the nut started onto the threads. Tighten it down with a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the upper ball joint to 40 foot-pounds. Add an additional 90 degrees.
Reinstall the tie rod into the spindle. Start the nut. Tighten it with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the tie rod to 45 foot-pounds. Reinstall the harness into the keepers and the bottom of the control arm. Reinstall the connector.
Push down on the safety tab. Reinstall the rotor onto the hub. Make sure that you don't twist the line on your brake hose. Reinstall the caliper carrier assembly onto the rotor. Start the bolts on the back side. Tighten the bolts down with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper bolts to 130 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire onto the vehicle. Start the lug nuts with a 22 millimeter socket. Get all the lug nuts as tight as you can in the air and lower the vehicle. After tightening your axle nut torque it to 185 foot-pounds. Pop the center cap back into place. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
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