How to Replace Spark Plugs 2014-19 Audi SQ5
Created on: 2018-01-29
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace rusted, corroded, or stuck spark plugs on 15 Audi SQ5
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step 1 :Loosening the Coolant Reservoir
- Make sure the vehicle is cooled
- Twist off the reservoir cap to release and pressure
- Twist on the reservoir cap
- Unclip the hose with a flat bladed screwdriver
- Remove the hose from the reservoir
- Remove the two 10mm nuts from the reservoir
- Lift the reservoir from its mounts
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step 2 :Removing the Driver Side Ignition Coils
- Remove the two T20 Torx bolts
- Gently press the tab and lift the coil harnesses from the coil with a flat blade screwdriver
- Disconnect the ignition coil harnesses together
- Lift the ignition coil out of the engine
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step 3 :Removing the Driver Side Spark Plugs
- Remove the spark plug with a 5/8 spark plug socket
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step 4 :Installing the Driver Side Spark Plugs
- Insert the spark plug into the socket
- Tighten the spark plug by hand with a socket extension
- Torque the spark plug to 22 foot-pounds
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step 5 :Installing the Driver Side Ignition Coils
- Insert the ignition coil into place
- Connect the coil harnesses all together
- Tighten the two T20 orx bolts to the harness
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step 6 :Installing the Coolant Reservoir
- Lift the coolant reservoir onto the mounts
- Press the hose onto the coolant reservoir
- Lock the hose in with a clip
- Tighten the 10mm bolts to the coolant reservoir
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step 7 :Removing the Engine Air Filter Housing
- Unclip the clips on the air intake hose
- Pop the tabs in on the air duct and separate it from the air filter housing
- Lift the air filter housing from the rubber mounts
- Press the ridges and disconnect the hose from the housing
- Remove the housing
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step 8 :Installing the Passenger Side Ignition Coils
- Remove the two T20 Torx bolts
- Gently press the tab and lift the coil harnesses from the coil with a flat blade screwdriver
- Disconnect the ignition coil harnesses together
- Lift the ignition coil out of the engine
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step 9 :Removing the Passenger Side Spark Plugs
- Remove the spark plug with a 5/8 spark plug socket
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step 10 :Installing the Passenger Side Spark Plugs
- Insert the spark plug into the socket
- Tighten the spark plug by hand with a socket extension
- Torque the spark plug to 22 foot-pounds
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step 11 :Removing the Passenger Side Ignition Coils
- Insert the ignition coil into place
- Connect the coil harnesses all together
- Tighten the two T20 Torx bolts to the harness
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step 12 :Installing the Engine Air Filter Housing
- Connect the hose to the housing
- Place the housing on its rubber mounts
- Connect the air duct to the air filter housing
- Clip the clips to the air intake hose
Tools needed
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Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
T20 Driver
Pry Bar
5/8 Inch Spark Plug Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
The coils are right on the top of cylinder head. We're working on the driver's side. In order to have clearance, we're going to move the coolant reservoir slightly out of the way. The vehicle is cooled off, so this is nice and cool to the touch. I'm going to release some of the pressure if there is any. Shouldn't be much though if any. Nice and cool. Simply unscrew it.
There's a little bit of built up pressure in there. I'm just going to screw this back on. Since I'm going to pull this reservoir to the side, this hose isn't very flexible. I'm going to unclip it by taking a small flat bladed screwdriver and lifting up on the lock. I'm going to pull the hose off of the ball. Now I'm going to remove the two 10 millimeter nuts from the studs back here in I can lift the bottle slightly out of the way.
Using a ratchet extension and 10 millimeter socket, loosen these up and remove them. Can't quite get on there straight because of the A/C line, but these aren't very tight so it’s not a big deal. Put those aside. The bottle is still attached to the bottom to a hose, so I'm not going to fully remove it. We'll just pick it up off the studs, and this way when I need to get to this coil, I can just move it out of the way.
When I need to get to this one, I can slide it out of the way, but it's just going to live here for right now. Use a T-20 Torx bit on my ratchet. You need to remove these two T-20 Torx bolts so the spark plug harness will be loose. These shouldn't be in there very tight. It’s loose here. See I can move this bottle around as needed. These are fairly small. I'm just going to have a magnet handy to grab them. I don't want to drop the screw. And there we go.
We need to unlock the coils from this spark plug coil harness. There's locks here. I'm going to use a small flat bladed screwdriver and I'm going to lift up. You don't pry too hard, because you don't want to break it. I'm just going to lift up gently, and at the same time you can actually pull up and then lift up and then push it down. And it should unlock just like that. It won't move too far because the other one's still locked. You just have to repeat that process for all of them.
Push these down and off. And kind of flip the harness up a bit. You don't have to unclip the whole thing—you should be able to work with these in here. I'm going to start with this coil here. There’s nothing else holding it in. You just have to basically pull it out of the head. I'm going to wiggle it back and forth. It doesn't want to come free easily. Use a small pry bar and pry up on the bottom of the coil, just like that. Undo the harness. That's the first one.
I'm going to put that right aside. I'm using a 5/8 spark plug socket and extension. This spark plug socket fits kind of loose on my extension, so I put a little electrical tape around there to help it stay. Got to slide this into here, and we can move the tank around a bit. It's over the spark plug. Break it free using a ratchet. Slide it out by the bottle. Our spark plug socket has a rubber grommet in here, which is what holds the spark plug in. It allows you to pull it out without it falling.
I'm just going to replace these one at a time. I've got the new spark plug on there. Slide it down into the opening. Move the bottle around. Find the opening. I might go backwards a little bit. It'll find the threads, and then I'll thread it in by hand. I don't want to cross thread it. It should thread down nice and easy, which it does. Torque for these plugs is 30 newton meters, or 22 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you've reached the torque and you're all done. Remove the spark plug socket and extension.
Reinstall your coil pack, and then repeat this step as necessary for as many coil packs that you need to replace on this side. You may need to move the bottle around. Otherwise the steps will be the same.
Plug the spark plug harness back in. Those click when they lock into place. Reinstall these little tiny screws, being careful not to drop them. Get one started. This one's started. Just going to use the socket, T-20 Torx socket here, and I'm just going to tighten them with my fingers. They don't have to be super tight, so just turn them tight with your fingers. They're very small bolts. You don't want to break them. That's perfect. That's not going anywhere.
Going put the coolant bottle back where it needs to be. There is a rubber grommet at the bottom and it's going to go and it's going to sit in there. And then it's going to go on these studs back here. Push it down. It'll lock into place. You can plug this in right now. Just pull up on the metal lock with a small flat bladed screwdriver. Push it in then push the lock down. That'll lock into place. Reinstall these 10 millimeter nuts that had the big washers on them. Tighten these back down. Wipe up any spilled coolant here.
To access the coils and plugs on the passenger side, we need to move the air box out of the way. I'm going to start by unclipping it from the hose here. These are just snap clips. Push them open. Try to pull this apart—it should come right out. You need to separate the air box from this little air guide that comes from the front bumper. I'm going to use a flat bladed screwdriver, or I'm using a very small pry bar. Just kind of popping the tabs in. Pull them apart. I'll begin to separate that. Air box is mounted on a rubber mount here. Pick up on that. It's also got a rubber mount on the bottom, so you basically pulled it out of the rubber mount. Just kind of move the hose a little bit. Lift it up. There is a secondary air hose that's here. It's hard to see, but there are these two spots that have little ridges on them. Trying to squeeze them together and then at the same time wiggle the hose away from the box. Just like that. Now the air box, there's the rubber mount it was sitting on and there's a second rubber mount, this is actually two. Put those back on there. When it goes back in it's going to sit in these two white O-rings. Put this aside for now.
Use the T-20 Torx socket and L-extension. See if I can get these loose with my hands. They're very lightly in there. Take it out. Same for both. Disconnect these just like the other side. So again, this'll be just like the other side. Repeat that for the other two. You may need to move this hose around. But the procedure will be exactly the same.
We'll reinstall the air box. Move the hose around here. Before I get too far with it, hook this hose back up. That just took some force. I had to really push down on it. Now we got to feed the hose back down into the opening where it came out of and the air box at the same time. It'll go right in. Get over this little accordion part. At the same time this is going to sit over here. I also need to get the air box onto those two pins that are down there. This needs to go way over, so I'm going to lift up this intake hose. Slide the air box in. It kind of end up where I want it. All right, that's good. Got to readjust it over here. Push it in there. Push it down into here just like that. I can line this back up, this accordion boot. Get it lined up. The air box is sealed in place. We'll line the hose up and reinstall it. It's got a locating tab on the bottom, locating tab on the top; it's right next to the metal clips. Might have to spread the metal clips a little bit and then just kind of push this down in. I think just the O-ring is new. It's tight, but that's installed.
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