Created on: 2017-03-21
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace a broken, noisy, squeaky, worn or groaning serpentine belt tensioner on 11 Chevy Camaro
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
1/2 Inch Ratchet
10mm Socket
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All right, begin by removing your oil cap so you can remove your cover from the top of your engine, and then reinstall your oil cap so that nothing falls down in there.
Next we'll pop off the connector to the mass air flow sensor, pull out the little yellow lock, and then push down on the tab. You can wiggle it loose.
Then we'll come over to this air filter box. There's a tab here around the back and a tab here on the side that you'll want to push away from the box itself. That will release the top from the box.
Next, up at the intake manifold you'll find a clamp that you'll have to remove with a flat-tipped screwdriver. You don't have to actually remove it all the way, you just have to loosen it up so that it releases its grip on the intake manifold. After that, you'll have a rubber hose right here, which you'll slide right off. And then you should be able to wiggle the whole plastic intake right off the car.
Before pulling your serpentine belt off, you always want to make a diagram if there's not one on the car. In our case there's not, so we drew one on a piece of paper to reference for when we're reinstalling.
So to take the belt off, you'll want to start by putting a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension into the tensioner like so. You can pull up on the passenger side, and at that point it will loosen the belt enough where you can slide it off of the crank shaft and the rest of the components. You have to turn the belt sideways to get it out from behind the tensioner. Other than that, it pops off the alternator pretty easily, and the water pump and the power steering and AC.
Typically, the tensioners are held on with two bolts. Unfortunately, in this case, this one bolt right here is actually behind the power steering pulley, so you can't get a socket on it. Even if you could, you couldn't pull the bolt out, because it will hit the pulley. In our case, we're going to have to move the power steeling pulley out of the way so that we can access the bolt.
The other one is right up above the tensioner towards the passenger side of the motor. We're going to remove the 10 millimeter bolts in the air box right here and here. The next step is to just pull straight up with the air box and it'll pop out of place.
The power steering pump has a pivot point right down here, which we are going to pivot the power steering pump on so that we can access the bolts in the tensioner. We're going to remove this 15 millimeter and this 15 millimeter bolt with a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. They are different lengths, so you're going to want to keep them separate. The shorter one goes on the top. You're going to want to take a flat-tip screwdriver and put it right in between the cylinder head and the bracket. If you just pry down slightly, you'll see the power steering pump comes right out of the way of that bolt.
With the power steering out of the way, you can take your 13 millimeter socket with a short extension and slide it right on the tensioner bolt. On the other side of the tensioner you have another 13 millimeter, which you can also get with that same socket and short extension. Now that the two outer bolts are removed, we can go on to the center bolt. That bolt is also a 13 millimeter. With the center bolt out of the way, you can pull the bracket right off the end.
Our tensioner is actually still working quite fine, so we're going to just put it right back in place. You're going to want to put all three of the bolts in before you tighten anything down—that way you know everything is aligned properly. Once you've hand-tightened all of the bolts into place, you're going to want to use a torque wrench to torque the bolts at 37 foot-pounds.
All right, you can pull your pump back into place. Take your long 15 millimeter bolt and put it in the lower bolt hole. The shorter 15 millimeter goes in the upper bolt hole. Both bolts are torqued to 43 foot-pounds.
The air box slides in right next to the washer pump, or washer bottle, and then over both studs. You got your two 10 millimeter nuts that you can put on the studs. You can tighten those down with a 10 millimeter ratchet and socket. Ideally, you want to use a quarter-drive ratchet and socket because any bigger, you'll probably end up putting too much force on these and you might snap them off. You got to be gentle with this size.
All right, to put your serpentine belt back on, you're going to want to flip it around backwards opposite the way you'd think it would go on, and slide it up behind the tensioner that's on the front of the engine. Once it's there, you can wrap it around your harmonic balancer and then around your air conditioning compressor, up over your power steering pump, over your water pump, and over to your alternator. Then you're going to need your 1/2 inch drive ratchet and extension to put in your tensioner, and while pulling up on the ratchet, you can loop the serpentine belt over the alternator. Then you release the tension and your serpentine belt is on.
Place your intake hose back on the intake manifold like that, and then over here you're going to see three tabs that hook into the lower part of the intake box. Once they're hooked in, you just push straight down and it locks into place.
Over here you have your rubber hose, which you'll want to push into place. Then there's the mass airflow sensor wire. Right here ours just fell down below, so you'll have to kind of dig for it. But it snaps right into place, and then you've got to push your lock tab in.
Back at the intake we have the clamp that we had released earlier, so we're going to tighten that up with a flat tipped screwdriver. The cover will go back on and you just have to pull the oil filler cap off to get the cover back on. And the oil filler cap holds the cover right back into place.
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