How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearings 2005-08 Chrysler 300

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace a rear-wheel drive wheel hub and bearing. This may be a little different on the all-wheel drive models.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 15-32mm sockets, ratchet, socket extensions, E-12 inverted Torx socket, large wrench, breaker bar and cheater pipe, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver, small prybar, bungee cord, mechanics wire, chisel, hammer, punch, brake grease, torque wrench

Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, break all of your lug nuts loose about one turn before raising your vehicle. Now these chrome cap style lug nuts are prone to having this chrome covering get water behind them and loosen up. If you can't get it on well like I can't here, just give the socket a couple of taps to make sure you get good contact when removing it. Now if these are really loose or you find a lot of them in poor condition like that, it's a good idea to change out all of your lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle, we're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on. But this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Finish removing your lug nuts, you should be able to do this by hand now. Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle.

Now this is an aluminum wheel on a steel hub, so you may have to work it back and forth a little bit to get it to free up. To remove our axle nut, we'll install a lug nut fully onto threads here. We'll then install a large wrench. We're using a 22mm, but it doesn't have to be a 22mm specifically. We'll use a lug nut to lock that one down too. We'll now lower our wrench onto the ground to keep it from rotating while we loosen our axle nut. Remove our axle nut with a 32 millimeter socket breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

We're using the flat punch in the center of the axle here. Obviously, there are no threads to damage, but if your axle's good this is the proper way to do without damaging the end of the threads. Place that into the divet in the center of the axle and tap the splines free of the hub. Remove the two 15 millimeter bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. We'll do this using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now in this case, our guide pin is rotating as well. We'll grab a pair of pliers to hold that steady while we remove the bolt.

Using a flat blade screwdriver or a small pry bar, remove the caliper and using a mechanics wire, zip ties or bungee cord just tie up, secure it out of the way. Using that same screwdriver, remove the brake pads. That one is really stuck on there. We’ll remove the bracket and then tap that out with a hammer. Using an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper bracket from the vehicle.

Now around the ring of our rotor, we have some very heavy build up. This is from dissimilar metals like the aluminum wheel being attached to these steel rotors and hubs for so long. To try to make it a little easier to remove, we're going to use a small chisel and the hammer. Just try to break as much of that stuff out of the crease as we can, so we aren't fighting it when we remove our rotor. Now this rotor's no good; I could just hit the face of the rotor but to show you another way if you were to be reusing this. You can tap in between the studs on the face of the rotor to free it up from the hub. You may have to hold the rotor and tap this side to help release it. Ours is stuck on the e-brake, we're going to have to remove it the hard way.

Remove the four E-12 inverted Torx bolts securing the wheel bearing onto the back of the spindle. They're two on each side, they're opposite the other ones we just showed you there. The socket you'll need for this is called an inverted Torx. This is almost like what a bolt you would remove with a Torx bit looks like. They're kind of obscure, but they are able to be found. This is an E-12, that's how they are designate the sizes on these. We'll remove those bolts with that socket, a ratchet, an extension. Now these can be very prone to stripping, you want to make sure that you really get on there good. You can get a little better look at the bolt there and see exactly what we're talking about. You can see how thin these contact points are, which is why it's important you make sure that that socket is fully seated on there before trying to remove it. Otherwise, you'll just round the top edges off and crack them and then they're a real pain to get out.

Now it may be helpful when you're trying to remove the bolt from the last couple of threads. If you put your hand on the end of the CV axle right where those threads come through where we removed our nut and push back on the axle, these do have some plunge to them. You can push it in, give yourself a little more room. You may have a better variety of extensions but we're in kind of a weird place here, you really just got to work it little by little in between that control arm and the shock. It's probably more work than it's worth to remove either of these components and give you more swing room where this is working well enough. Sometimes you just got to be patient with hardware like this. Be sure to support the hub when removing the last bolt. Ours is pretty much falling right out.

Now push against the end of the CV axle and carefully remove the hub because it is behind the backing plate, as well as the emergency brake hardware. Remove that from the vehicle and just be careful, because this is hanging from the cable over on this side but it does still have some movement to it. You don't want to risk breaking anything.

Here we have our old wheel bearing and hub assembly that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same center bore, same hub face. We have a new set of wheel studs on here in the same bolt pattern and same thread. We have the same splines down in the center here for where our axle shafts are going to engage to these hubs to turn our rear wheels.

On the back side, you can see we have identical bearings on the actual hub and bearing assembly here. We have the same four bolt mounting locations on the rear. A bad wheel bearing can cause some grinding noises when the vehicle is moving and can change as you turn left to right and weight is taken on and off of the bad bearing. Eventually, a failed bearing could cause the hub to separate or bind, making the vehicle dangerous, especially if it happens while driving. This new part from 1A Auto will go in direct fit, just like our original equipment. Get our bearing rolling safely, smoothly, and quietly again while keeping our wheel securely attached, and fix you up right.

Install your new wheel bearing, being careful to line up the splines on the CV axle, as well as not hitting or damaging any of the e-brake components. If your e-brake spring gets stuck behind the hub, you should just be able to pull it around with a pick or a flat blade screwdriver and finish tapping it in. Now I like to start the bolts into the spindle and get one or two of them started a couple of threads before tightening anything down, just to make sure that my hub is aligned properly.

Finish tightening down the hardware with your E-12 inverted Torx socket, a ratchet, and the extensions you need to get onto the head of the bolt. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the surface of your hub, as well as the bore of the hub. This will prevent the wheel from freezing onto the hub, as well as the rotor. If you have an old axle nut lying around, place it over a wheel stud. Start one of your lug nuts just tighten that down, tight as you can by hand don't need to go crazy tight on there. What that's going to do is it's going to prevent your rotor from moving around too much while you install your brake caliper carrier, pads, and caliper.

Reinstall your caliper carrier as well as the two 18 millimeter bolts. We'll just start by hand for now. Then tighten down your hardware with an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper carrier bolts to 88 foot-pounds. Install your brake pads into the shins in the caliper carrier. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the backing plates of the brake pads. This will prevent them from seizing to the caliper. Then reinstall your caliper with your two guide bolts. Tighten the caliper pin bolts down with a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper pin bolts to 23 foot-pounds. Remove the lug nut and axle nut from your hub if you used them. Reinstall your axle nut, tighten it down as far as you can with a 32 millimeter socket and ratchet. Use an extension or punch to pop out the center cap on the wheel and reinstall it onto the hub.

Install all of your lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Finish tightening your axle nut and then torque it to 157 foot-pounds. Reinstall your center cap, tap it back into place. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearings 2005-08 Chrysler 300

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Removing the Axle Nut

step 3 :Removing the Brake Pads

step 4 :Removing the Brake Rotor

step 5 :Removing the Hub Assembly

step 6 :Installing the Hub Assembly

step 7 :Installing the Brake Rotor

step 8 :Installing the Brake Pads

step 9 :Reinstalling the Axle Nut

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel

Tools needed

How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 2005-11 Toyota Camry

How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearings 2005-08 Chrysler 300

step 1 :Removing the Wheel 0:59

step 2 :Removing the Axle Nut 2:05

step 3 :Removing the Brake Pads 3:31

step 4 :Removing the Brake Rotor 4:33

step 5 :Removing the Hub Assembly 6:11

step 6 :Installing the Hub Assembly 10:06

step 7 :Installing the Brake Rotor 11:17

step 8 :Installing the Brake Pads 12:21

step 9 :Reinstalling the Axle Nut 13:15

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel 13:28

Tools needed

How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 2005-11 Toyota Camry

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Removing the Axle Nut

step 3 :Removing the Brake Pads

step 4 :Removing the Brake Rotor

step 5 :Removing the Hub Assembly

step 6 :Installing the Hub Assembly

step 7 :Installing the Brake Rotor

step 8 :Installing the Brake Pads

step 9 :Reinstalling the Axle Nut

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel