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How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly V6 3.6L Manual 10-15 Chevy Camaro

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:56)
    • Loosen the 22mm lug nuts
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Separating the Axle from the Hub (1:19)
    • Put the transmission in gear
    • Put the parking brake on
    • Loosen the 32mm axle nut
    • Remove the axle nut
    • Loosen the axle spines with a hammer and punch
  3. step : Removing the Brakes (1:54)
    • Remove the two 16mm bolts from the brake caliper
    • Pull off the brake caliper
    • Hang the caliper aside with bungee cords
    • Remove the T30 Torx screw from the brake rotor
    • Release the parking brake
    • Tap the face of the rotor with a hammer to loosen it
    • Pull off the brake rotor
  4. step : Removing the Hub (3:12)
    • Remove the four 13mm bolts that hold the hub to the wheel spindle
    • Apply a two-jaw puller to the hub
    • Tighten the puller with a socket and ratchet
    • Remove the two-jaw puller
    • Pull the hub off the axle
    • Pull the washer off the axle with a pick
  5. step : Installing the Hub (4:21)
    • Slide the new washer onto the axle
    • Slide the bearing splines onto the axle
    • Start the four 13mm bolts that hold the hub to the wheel spindle
    • Tighten the 13mm bolts to 85 foot-pounds of torque
  6. step : Installing the Brakes (5:04)
    • Put the rotor into place
    • Insert the T30 screw into the rotor
    • Remove the bungee cord from the caliper
    • Put the caliper into pace
    • Start the two 16mm bolts into the caliper
    • Tighten the 16mm bolts to 30 foot-pounds
    • Tighten the 16mm bolts 90 degrees further
  7. step : Installing the Wheel (5:59])
    • Start the axle nut onto the axle
    • Tighten the axle nut to 200 foot-pounds
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the five 22mm lug nuts
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2011 Chevy Camaro 3.6L V6, with manual transmission. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's rear wheel hub and bearing assembly. We're doing this on the passenger side, but the procedure should be the same on the driver's side. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Using a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jackstands. Remove your lugnuts. Remove your wheel and tire.

Using the 32 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, with the vehicle in gear, and the parking brake on, we'll loosen our axle nut. These are a one-time use, so if you remove this, be sure you have a new one to reinstall when you're done. Once we get it loosened up, we'll switch over to a socket and ratchet. Place a punch in the center section of the axle and tap the splines loose.

All of the bolts on your caliper, being the two 14 millimeters on the pins and the two 16s securing it to the knuckle, are one-time use, so if you remove any of this hardware, be sure you have all your replacements with you. We're not going to remove the caliper for this. We're going to move the bracket and caliper as a whole, so we're going to use our 16 millimeter socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts. Make sure you have a bungee cord or some mechanic's wire or zip tie handy. You can secure your brake caliper out of the way without putting strain on the rubber hose.

Using a T30 Torx bit and ratchet, remove your rotor screw. Release your e-brake. You may need to use a hammer to release your rotor. If you're going to be reusing it, you're going to want to hit the face and not the edges. This'll free it up without damaging the contact surface of the rotor.

Remove the two 13 millimeter bolts at the bottom and the one on the top securing the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the knuckle. Here we've set up our two-jaw puller to remove the hub while simultaneously pushing the CV axle shaft out of its splines. We'll tighten that down with a 16 millimeter socket and ratchet for our particular tool. They also have a variety of different hub pullers as well as slide hammers, but if you want to keep the wheel bearing in good shape, a slide hammer is not the tool you want to use.

Using a small flat-blade screwdriver or right-angle pick, you'll need to grab this spring washer. It's a one -time use, so you'll need to change this out before we put our new hub on. Go ahead and work that off the end of your CV axle and throw it away.

Install the new spring washer, the spacer, on to your axle fully, before installing the wheel hub. Install the wheel bearing and the hub assembly on to the splines of the CV axle. Start all three of your 13 millimeter wheel hub bolts before tightening any of them down fully. This will help line the hub up and suck it into the knuckle. Tighten the bolts down with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. We're just going to snug them now, and then we'll torque them. We'll then torque the hub bolts to 85 foot-pounds.

To reinstall your rotor, just use a T30 Torx bit on an extension or a T30 Torx screwdriver if you have one. I'm just going to snug that rotor screw, and it doesn't really do anything structural, it just holds this in place to make installing the caliper easier. As long as you get it on there tight, and this isn't moving, you should be fine. Reinstall your caliper and carrier onto the rotor. Put your two new 16 millimeter bolts through the knuckle and into the carrier. We'll then snug them down with the 16 millimeter socket and ratchet before torquing and putting the torque angle on the bolts. Torque the bolts to 30 foot-pounds, then add 90 degrees.

Install a new axle nut, tighten it down with a 32 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the axle nut to 200 foot-pounds. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. You may also use the 22 millimeter socket to help you spin these in. Lower your vehicle back onto its wheels. You can now torque your lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

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Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Center Punch
  • Pick
  • Floor Jack
  • Funnel

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Bungee Cord

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • Complete Metric Socket Set

  • Specialty Tools

  • 2 Jaw Gear Puller

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T30 Bit

2010 - 2015  Chevrolet  Camaro

10-15 Chevy Camaro 6.2L, or w/3.6L & MT Rear Wheel Bearing & Hub Assy Pair

2010-15 Chevrolet Camaro Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ

This part replaces:

  • Hollander 538-00225
  • OE # 7467850
  • OE # 13500401
  • OE # 13504969
  • TRQ BHA53789

Part Details

  • Bearing Type: Ball Bearing
  • Set Quantity: 2 Piece
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