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How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Link 07-10 Hyundai Elantra

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:21)
    • Raise the vehicle with minimal weight on the tire
    • Loosen the five 21 mm lug nuts
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the five lug nuts
    • Remove the hubcap
    • Remove the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Rear Sway Bar Link (1:25)
    • Remove the 14 mm nut from the lower end of the sway bar link, holding the sway bar link stud with locking pliers to hold it from spinning
    • Remove the 14 mm nut from the upper end of the sway bar link, holding the sway bar link stud with locking pliers to hold it from spinning
    • Remove the sway bar link
  3. step : Installing the Rear Sway Bar Link (6:11)
    • Insert the upper and lower sway bar link studs into their mounting locations
    • Install the 14 mm nut onto the upper and lower sway bar link studs
    • The 1A Auto replacement sway bar link stud can be held steady with a 14 mm wrench
    • Tighten the 14mm nut onto the upper and lower sway bar link studs
  4. step : Installing the Wheel (8:15)
    • Slide the wheel onto the wheel studs
    • Replace the hubcap
    • Replace and tighten the 21 mm lug nuts by hand
    • Lower the vehicle with minimal weight on the wheel
    • Torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lb in a star pattern
    • Lower the vehicle completely

Hey friends, it's Len here are 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. I'm going to be showing you how to do some rear sway bar links. Be a fairly easy job. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it. If you need these or any other part, you can always check us out 1aauto.com. Thanks.

Now it's time to loosen these up, okay, 21 millimeter. We got our long a ratchet here. I've got the majority of the weight of the vehicle off the ground. It's just barely touching so I can remove the lug nuts or at least break them free without spinning the wheel. Okay. I'm just going to give it a quick crank, not going to loosen it up all the way. Last Lug nut. I'm holding the wheel. Take off our hubcap and we're going to carefully take the wheel down lower to the ground, and we'll put it safely out of the way.

So here's our new sway bar link. What I like to do first before I go ahead and take anything out, I like to just try and do a quick comparison. Just get them close to each other. Once I have it out, I'll be able to do a real comparison, but I just like to try to make sure that they're at least the same length and both ends are facing in the same direction. The old one has both ends facing this way. The new one has both ends facing this way. It's approximately the same length. I think we should go ahead and give it a shot. Let's do it.

So what I'm gonna do first, I'm going to grab some locking pliers. I'm gonna try to clamp it on the backside there, and then I'm going to take my 14 millimeter, I'm going to try to take off this nut. A lot of times what happens when you try to take off this nut, the whole stub will spin. If that happens, all we're going to do is regroup our locking pliers. We'll make sure that they're tight again, and then I'm going to heat up this nut. So it's as hot as it can be and then I'm going to just blast it off and if that doesn't work, I'm going to torch it. It's how I roll. I'm going to grab my air gun. You can use your ratchet or whatever you want to do. I'll try to give this a little spin.

Just as I thought. The whole shaft is spinning. Did come off a little bit, but not enough. I'm going to grab something. I'm going to heat this up so it's nice and warm. I'm going to regroup my locking pliers, like I said I would, even though they are pretty tight. Yeah, all right. Let's warm this puppy up and we'll blast it off. Then we'll do the same to the top. So I'm just going to heat it up. I have an acetylene torch here with just a little tip. This is a heating torch. You can use something else, whatever you have to heat it up. I wouldn't try to use a cigarette lighter. You'll probably be there for three days straight and not getting anywhere. Anyway, safety glasses, hand protection.

All I'm going to do now is heat up this nut. This is a great way to tell if you have a gas leak on a car. Obviously it's not really the best way to tell. Hey, I learned pretty quick. It's looking like it's pretty hot. Let's go ahead and try to zip it off with our gun now. 14 millimeter. We got it. I'm not going to touch it with my fingers, obviously.

Now that I got that off I'll remove my locking pliers. I'm going to skip trying to loosen this one without heating it because well I learned my lesson the first time. I've already got the torches out. So I'm not gonna mess around. I'm going to make sure that our ABS wire's away from it. We're not anywhere close to the fuel tank, it's all the way on the other side of the vehicle, of course. So there's nothing here that I have to worry about burning. Let's do it. Gas, flame on. I'm just going to do the same thing, get it nice and warm. Torch like this likes to move around. Just give it a little wiggle. Cool. Love it. Grab our air gun. It looks like I should have grabbed an extension as well. Of course. Of course, it's really difficult to get to. Why would it be easy? Here we are.

There's a hot nut around here someplace. Here it is, all the way over there. Safe, it's not near anything that might explode, my gas lines. So here we go. I'm going to go ahead and take all this sway bar link. It might still be a little hot so I'm going to be very careful. There it is. Over here we have our old sway bar link from our 2007 Hyundai Elantra. We just pulled it out of the rear, still a little hot even. Over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. I'm going to match them up right next to each other. As you can tell they're the same length, the studs are facing in the same direction, old to new and they came with brand new nuts, with the neoprene locker in there. This is a quality part. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be great to install on the vehicle. So I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com.

We've got our new sway bar link. Let's get this puppy installed. Come up here. Get it in the top hole, and go down here. Try to get it on the bottom hole. Let's see. So close. There it is. We're going to take our nut for here and our nut for up top. These new nuts are 16 millimeter. There's an area on the stud of the new sway bar link that you should be able to get your wrench onto. So I'm going to get those lined up. That should be using my 14 millimeter wrench. I'm going to turn them so that I can hopefully grab onto them. Let's see. I'm just going to get things situated so once I tighten it, that one will be good. This one hopefully. Cool. Let's tighten this up. 16 millimeter. This out of here. Tight. We'll do the same for the top. Just going to get my wrench on here. I've got an extension with a swivel, just going to try to get it on. There we are. Safety glasses.

There we are. Sway bar links done. We'll do the same to the other side of the vehicle. Okay, so let's just take a peak. Right here you can tell it looks like this came off of it's little groove. Let's push it right back up on there. Okay. There we are. It likes it there. Check this one. That one looks good. It's going to help keep the moisture out of there. Perfect. All right, it's time to get the wheel up on here. We've got our lug nuts close, we've got our hubcap. I'm just going to take it, roll it up my leg here. Get it on there. Take my hubcap. We've got our little slot right there where our valve stem goes through, and get one lug nut on while I'm still holding it. Make sure it's on there good. There we go. The wheel can't fall off. Now I'm going to grab the others.

21 millimeter. I'm just going to bottom these out. Can use an air gun if you have access to it. All right. I want to make sure that we do this in a star pattern so the wheel won't get kinked on like this if I tighten this one up, and then this one, the wheel might be sitting like this, and I might think I have these tightened down. And really they're not, right, I mean pretty obvious. So we'll get it close. We'll come down here. Air gun would make short work of this time. Time to torque this down. 21 millimeter star pattern. We're going to go 80 foot-pounds. Let's go ahead and go around in a circle here now.

Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door, the place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Floor Jack

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Locking Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 21mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket

2011 - 2012  Hyundai  Elantra
2007 - 2010  Hyundai  Elantra

07-12 Hyundai Elantra Rear Sway Bar Link LH=RH

Hyundai Elantra Rear Driver or Passenger Side Sway Bar Link TRQ

This part replaces:

  • Moog K750102
  • Beck Arnley 101-5754
  • OE # 555301H000
  • Mevotech MS90840
  • TRQ PSA67998

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