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How to Replace Rear Strut Assembly 10-15 Chevy Camaro

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:46)
    • Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Rear Strut Assembly (1:16)
    • Remove the 15mm bolt on the sway bar link with a 15mm wrench and 5mm Allen key
    • Remove the bolt connecting the lower control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Remove the bottom strut bolt with a 21mm wrench and 21mm socket and 1/4 inch breaker bar
    • Remove the four 15mm bolts securing the strut to the bottom of the vehicle
    • Pull down on the control arm and remove the strut
  3. step : Installing the Rear Strut Assembly (3:45)
    • Insert the strut up into place
    • Tighten the four 15mm bolts to the strut
    • Line up the bottom strut bolt
    • Line up the bolt to the lower control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Load up the suspension by jacking underneath the control arm to simulate the suspension
    • Torque the bottom strut bolt to 59 foot-pounds
    • Add 120 degrees to the bottom strut bolt
    • Torque the lower control arm bolt at the knuckle to 30 foot-pounds
    • Add 120 degrees to the control arm bolt
    • Torque the upper strut bolts to 43 foot-pounds (these bolts do not need a simulated suspension)
    • Insert the sway bar link into place
    • Reinstall the 15mm nut to the sway bar link
  4. step : Reattaching the Wheel (8:21)
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the 22mm lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to between 140 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2011 Chevy Camaro. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's rear strut or spring and shock assembly.

If you like this video, please click "subscribe." We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14-22mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, 14-22mm wrench, 5mm allen wrench, torque wrench, breaker bar, hammer, pry bar, angle gauge, jack, jack stands

Loosen all of your lug nuts with a 22mm socket and a breaker bar or a long ratchet. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be performed at home with a jack and jack stands. Finish removing all of your lug nuts. You should be able to do this by hand now, but you can use a 22mm socket and ratchet if necessary. Remove your wheel and tire.

After removing your wheel and tire, we'll undo one end of our sway bar link. This will allow us to droop the rear control arm down and get the strut out easier. You'll want to use a 15mm wrench and 5mm Allen, which goes inside the middle of the sway bar link to hold the stud in place, and we'll loosen up the nut. Remove the nut and then slide the sway bar link out of the opening.

Using an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket and breaker bar, we'll loosen the bolt connecting our lower control arm to the steering knuckle. Once we get it loose, we'll use the socket and ratchet to remove it fully. Once the nut is off, an easy way to remove these types of bolts is to put a wrench behind the hex on the nut and use your 18mm socket while pulling out to remove the bolt. Using a 21mm wrench and a 21mm socket and breaker bar, we'll also loosen the bottom strut bolt, and again, once we get that loose, we'll switch to a socket and ratchet.

We'll now remove the four 15mm bolts securing the strut onto the bottom of the vehicle. Now, that last one there, the front inside, is going to be a little difficult to get out, so remove the other three first with some extensions, a 15mm socket, and a breaker bar. We're going to switch to a smaller socket and ratchet to do the last two bolts, just because they're a little tricky to get at. They're not terrible, but you do need something thinner than the 1/2 inch drive we were using to get them out. Once the top of the strut is unbolted, pull down on the control arm until you have sufficient space, and then you just got to find the right angle to get it out, and remove your strut from the vehicle.

Reinstall your strut and start your 15mm bolts by hand. Line up your bottom strut bolt now. You'll notice we didn't tighten the upper bolts yet, and the reason for this is because they do have a little bit of a slotted adjustment to them. So, on anything that's adjustable, I like to make sure that I have all the other pieces aligned before tightening it down because we may have had it twisted one way or another, and then it would have been tough to put this bolt in. You have to go back, loosen the hardware. It's easier to just get everything fit by hand to start and you can tighten everything down once you know it's all where it needs to be.

We'll also install the lower control arm to knuckle bolt while we're here. You got to pull down and push out at the bottom. Just be careful of your fingers when you do this. Use a pry bar if you need to. Then we'll go ahead and get the 18 and 21 mm bolts down snug with a socket and ratchet, but we don't want to tighten them at all until we have the load of our vehicle on the suspension.

We're using a screw jack to load up the suspension because our vehicle is on a lift. However, if you're doing this at home on a jack and jack stands, this can be done just the same way with your regular hydraulic floor jack. Just want to get some weight on there and then we'll torque the lower shock bolt to 59 foot-pounds. Then set up our torque angle gauge and add 120 degrees. We'll then torque a lower control arm bolt at the knuckle to 30 foot-pounds followed by an additional 120 as well.

You can then remove the weight of your vehicle from the suspension. Sometimes when you do this, you'll actually lift the body of the vehicle slightly, so be sure that your lift arms didn't move or your jack stands, depending on what you're using. Torque the upper strut bolts to 43 foot-pounds. We'll do two at the back the same way we removed them, with extensions, and then we'll lower the car down some and attach the front two bolts with the shorter socket. These don't need to be done with the weight of the suspension on the vehicle, because the only reason we do that is to put preload on the bushings, so the bushings and the suspension are nice and straight at ride height as opposed to tightening them at full drop like this, and then twisting them, and loading them up when we put weight on the vehicle. We use our shorter socket to torque the front two bolts to 43 foot-pounds as well.

Reinstall the sway bar link into the lower control arm. Reinstall the 15 mm nut. Once again, we'll counter hold with a 5 mm Allen and if you have a ratcheting wrench, you're best off to use that, otherwise you can just get by with a regular wrench. Reinstall your wheel and tire, and get all five of your 22 mm lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Torque your lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Hammer
  • Floor Jack

  • Hex Wrenches

  • 5mm Hex Wrench

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 14mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 22mm Wrench
  • 14mm Wrench
  • 15mm Wrench


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