How to Replace Rear Door Check 2000-07 Volvo V70
Created on: 2019-01-21
How to replace the rear door check on 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07 Volvo V70
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step 1 :Removing the Rear Door Panel
- Remove the six door panel clips with a small flat blade screwdriver
- Use a small flat blade screwdriver and a trim tool to remove the plastic cover from the door pull
- Remove the mounting screw with a T25 Torx screwdriver
- Grab the door panel and lift it up
- Disconnect the interior door handle cable
- Disconnect the window switch wiring harness
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step 2 :Removing the Door Check
- Pry off the adhesion from the water shield with a razor blade
- Remove the T40 Torx bolt from the door check
- Remove the 10mm bolts from the door check
- Remove the door check
- Press the water shield into place
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step 3 :Installing the Door Check
- Coat the rollers on the door check with water-based silicone paste
- Insert the door check into place
- Tighten the two 10mm nuts to the door check for 1/4 turn once bottomed out
- Tighten the T40 Torx bolt to the door check
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step 4 :Installing the Rear Door Panel
- Connect the interior door handle cable
- Connect the window switch connector
- Push the door panel and pushing it back in place
- Line up the door panel with the door
- Push in the six door panel clips
- Tighten the T25 screw to the door panel
- Press the T25 trim cover into the door pull
Tools needed
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Flat Blade Screwdriver
T40 Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Liquid Thread Locker
Trim Tool Set
T25 Torx Driver
Utility Knife
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to show you how to remove and replace the door check on the passenger side of an '03 Volvo V70. If you need any parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
These clips are a pushpin. You just push in the center. It's the first stage and then you can just pop it out. That's what it looks like. To reinstall it you push that pin in out all the way like that. Then you could put it in and flatten it out.
We're going to take all the pins all the way around that hold the panel on. There's two on the inner side of the panel. Don't forget those. There's two on the bottom and then the two on the side. We're going to take this plastic cover off, and underneath it should be a mounting screw of some sort. I just use a pocket screwdriver because you've got to get something real thin in there, and then I'll use the body tool to pop that out. As you can see, it's a Torx bit head on that mounting screw. This is a T25. We're just going to back that right out.
Now we can just grab the panel. We're going to raise it up off of the top window ledge and the lock button. You can push down to help. Just lift it up like that. To pop this cable off, there's two clips right here: one on the top, and one on the bottom. I'm just going to kind of spread those and pull out at the same time. It comes right off. Then we have the connector for the back switch for the back window. See that tab right there? Push down on that. Pull that out. Now we have the panel.
I'm going to take off the insulation, and it has glue from the factory. As you can see, it's like a foam glue. We're just going to peel that back. Try not to break the actual insulation. I switched over to a razor blade trying to stop any unwanted tears. Torx head bolt that goes into the body jam is a T40. Loosen that up. As you can see, the manufacturer puts a lot of thread lock on that. There's a reason for that, the safety of the door. The inside mounting is 10 millimeter socket. I'm going to put that on. That goes off. I'm going to put my hand on the inside of the door, grab the chuck and pull it this way.
I'm going to reinstall the old one because there's nothing wrong with it, except that it's dry now. This is hard carbon plastic like. I want to keep it smooth moving so that the door never has a condition and dry rub. I'm going to install some water base silicone paste so it repels water. I'm going to put it right where the rollers hit. Try to keep it a little bit longer life. If you had to buy a used one because yours broke and went to the salvage yard or you got a used door, might as well take advantage of being able to get at the actual roller area while it's out.
I'm going to reinstall it. I'm going to guide it right through. Have it come out. Line up the mounting studs and install the nuts. There's no torx on this. It's just basically make sure you tighten it. Once it's bottomed out, give it a good quarter turn. Now I can take that guide bolt. It goes into there. If you have thread lock. I recommend putting some on there. I'm going to go get some. I'm just going to add a dab of some new thread locker on there, so it dries up inside the threads.
Open the door. You're going to guide that. Try not to put any pressure on it with the door because you don't want to cross thread it. I'm going to bottom it out, and then I'm going to give it a good quarter turn. I'm going to carefully guide this back through the bracket here. Get it to fall into place. It wants to fall into place naturally. It just seems to automatically stick back to that adhesive, that white foam.
Now we're going to reinstall the inner handle cable. It's got this plastic piece that just lines right up perfectly flat square and just snap it in. Now we can connect the electrical connector, and that's for the window switch. I'm going to put the latch, the lock down all the way. See, if I can guide my cable back into the plastic. Put that into the hole. And you see that ridge line up here? Put your panel right into that ridge line, nice and firm. And then push down.
Confirm that my mounting hole lines up, and it does. All my six pins line up. I'm going to put the pins in first. That is to make sure that divot piece is extended out, not in. Show you how to do these all the way around. Got it into place with that pin out and then you push the pin in, until it's flush, like that. Do that to all six of them. That's the last pin, and now we're ready to install the mounting bolt. It's located in the handle. It's a T25. Tighten that right up and put the plastic protective cover on. Two plastic guides, see how it sits, so it goes down in that way. Snaps right into place.
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