How to Replace Rear CV Axle 2010-15 Chevy Camaro

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2011 Chevy Camaro, 3.6L, V6, manual transmission. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle’s rear CV axle shaft. We are doing this on the passenger’s side, but the procedure should be the same on the driver's side. If you like this video, please click subscribe; we have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Using a 22mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts. Remove your wheel and tire.

Using a 32mm socket and a breaker bar, with the vehicle in gear and the parking brake on, we'll loosen our axle nut. These are one time use, so if you remove this, be sure you have a new one to reinstall when you're done. Once we get it loosened up, we'll switch over to a socket and ratchet. Place a punch in the center section of the axle, and tap the splines loose.

All of the bolts on your caliper, being the two 14mm on the pins and the two 16s securing it to the knuckle, are one time use; so, if you remove any of this hardware, be sure you have all of your replacements with you. We are not going to remove the caliper for this; we're going to remove the bracket and caliper as a whole. So, we're going to use our 16mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts. Make sure you have a bungee cord, or some mechanics wire, or zip tie handy so you can secure your brake caliper out of the way without putting strain on the rubber hose.

Using a T30 Torx bit and ratchet, remove your rotor screw. Release your E-brake. You may need to use a hammer to release your rotor. If you're going to be reusing it, you're going to want to hit the face and not the edges. This will free it up without damaging the contact surface of the rotor.

Remove the two 13mm bolts at the bottom and the one on the tops securing the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the knuckle. So, here we've set up our two jaw puller to remove the hub, while simultaneously pushing the CV axle shaft out of its splines. We'll just tighten that down with a 16mm socket and ratchet for our particular tool. They also have a variety of different hub pullers, as well as slide hammers, but if you want to keep a wheel bearing in good shape, a slide hammer is not the tool you want to use.

Using a 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the bolt on the ABS sensors securing it to the hub. We've removed the wheel bearing, as well as the ABS sensor, in order to remove our CV axle, and while this may not be completely necessary, it does give you a lot more room to safely remove the axle without risk of it binding or breaking a sensor. Wiggle the sensor, and remove it from the wheel hub.

Using a small flat blade screwdriver or a right angle pick, you'll need to grab this spring washer, because they're a one-time use, so we'll need to change this out before we put our new hub on. So, go ahead and work that off the end of your CV axle, and throw it away.

Remove the 18mm bolts securing the knuckle to the upper control arm with an 18mm socket, ratchet, and a wrench. Using an 18mm socket and ratchet, we'll remove the bolt for this lateral arm here. Using an 18mm wrench, a socket, and ratchet, we'll loosen both of the lower control arm bolts. We're not going to take these out. We just want to take the pressure off so we can move the steering knuckle a little more freely. You may need to use two wrenches for the forward lower control arm, just because it's in kind of a tight place. Pull down on the top of the steering knuckle, and you should be able to work the CV axle out, and set it off to the side.

Now, if you have a CV axle puller, that's usually the best way to do this, but without the tool, you can get pry bars on each side of the joint, and usually just a little bit of pressure will pop it out of socket; and we do have a drain bucket set up underneath the differential, because sometimes it will leak just a little bit of fluid out of the seal. Once you get that end popped out, you should be able to completely remove your axle from the vehicle.

Line up the splines into the differential. Reinstall your CV axle. Pry down on the knuckle, and reinstall your CV axle. Reinstall the bolt for the lateral arm. I'm just going to get that started by hand for now. We'll then slide the knuckle and the upper control arm back together. Reinstall that bolt as well, and get the nut started on the back.

Since we're using a lift, we're going to use screw jack to put our vehicle at ride height. If you're doing this on a jack stand, you can easily achieve this with just a regular floor jack. All we're trying to do is jack it up and compress the suspension to about where the vehicle would ride at; so when we torque these bolts down, our bushing are preloaded at ride height and not full droop.

We'll start by tightening down our adjustable length nut with an 18mm socket and ratchet. We'll then torque this bolt to 103 foot-pounds.

We'll now snug the upper control arm nut and bolt with our 18mm socket, ratchet, and wrench. We'll then torque to 44 foot-pounds. We'll then add 90 degrees.

We'll re-torque the lower control arm bolt to 30 foot-pounds. We'll then add 120 degrees.The trailing arm bolt, at the knuckle, should also be torqued to 30 foot pounds, and then 120 degrees. I don't have a way of getting a torque wrench in there, so we're just going to tighten it up with a pair of 18mm wrenches. Then lower your screw jack or floor jack.

Install the new spring washer, or spacer, onto your axle fully before installing the wheel hub. Install the wheel bearing and the hub assembly onto the splines of the CV axle. Start all three of your 13mm wheel hub bolts before tightening any of them down fully. This will help line the hub up and suck it into the knuckle. Tighten the bolts down with a 13mm socket and ratchet. We're just going to snug them now, and then we'll torque them. We'll then torque the hub bolts to 85 foot pounds.

Reinstall your wheel speed sensor into the hub and tighten down the 10mm bolt.

Reinstall your rotor. Just use a T30 Torx bit on an extension or a T30 Torx screwdriver if you have one, and I'm just going to snug that rotor screw in. It doesn't really do anything structural; it just holds this in place to make installing the caliper easier. So, as long as you get it on there tight and this isn't moving, you should be fine.

Reinstall your caliper and carrier onto the rotor, and put your two new 16mm bolts through the knuckle and into the carrier. We'll then snug them down with a 16mm socket and ratchet before torquing and putting the torque angle on the bolts. Torque the bolts to 30 foot-pounds, then add 90 degrees.

Install a new axle nut. Tighten it down with a 32mm socket and ratchet. Torque the axle nut to 200 foot pounds.

Reinstall your wheel and tire, and get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. You may also use a 22mm socket to help you spin these in. Lower your vehicle back onto its wheels. You can now torque your lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern.

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How to Replace Rear CV Axle 2010-15 Chevy Camaro

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Separating the Axle form the Hub

step 3 :Removing the Brakes

step 4 :Removing the Hub

step 5 :Removing the Axle

step 6 :Installing the Axle

step 7 :Install the Wheel Hub

step 8 :Installing the Brakes

step 9 :Installing the Axle Nut

step 10 :Installing the Wheel

Tools needed

Why to Properly Remove Old Sealant

How to Replace Rear CV Axle 2010-15 Chevy Camaro

step 1 :Removing the Wheel 0:56

step 2 :Separating the Axle form the Hub 1:21

step 3 :Removing the Brakes 1:56

step 4 :Removing the Hub 3:13

step 5 :Removing the Axle 4:00

step 6 :Installing the Axle 6:48

step 7 :Install the Wheel Hub 9:19

step 8 :Installing the Brakes 10:03

step 9 :Installing the Axle Nut 11:03

step 10 :Installing the Wheel 11:20

Tools needed

Why to Properly Remove Old Sealant

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Separating the Axle form the Hub

step 3 :Removing the Brakes

step 4 :Removing the Hub

step 5 :Removing the Axle

step 6 :Installing the Axle

step 7 :Install the Wheel Hub

step 8 :Installing the Brakes

step 9 :Installing the Axle Nut

step 10 :Installing the Wheel