How to Replace Rear Brakes 2011-17 Toyota Camry

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hi, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today we have a 2013 Camry in the shop, and I'm going to show you how to replace the rear rotor in parts. If you need these parts or any of the parts of your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1Aauto.com. Use a 21 millimeter socket. And this car came with aftermarket extended lug nuts. Your car is not going to have these extensions on them unless you have that style, but it's 21 millimeter socket and then we're going to loosen them up with the weight of the vehicle on the tire.

I'm going to use a two post lift to raise my car. You can use Jack and Jack stands at home. Now it's up in the air. I can take the lug nuts off by hand. Take the wheel down. First thing I'm going to do is take off the bleeder screw boot. Set that aside or reuse that. And I've got to confirm that the bleeder screw opens up. Open her up perfectly fine. Just slightly close it and now I'm going to take the caliper off the caliper bracket. These are 14 millimeter sockets breaking free. Now the inside bolt here, the pin caliper pin itself does have a hex on it in and It's a 14 millimeter wrench. So if you could hold that and break that bolt free, I might have to do that. Take that caliper bolt right out and I'll get to the top one.

I'm now going to take the caliper off of the bracket just by pulling it up and this is where I'm going to push that caliper piston back. This is the caliper piston right here. These calipers are fairly new, so hopefully they're in good shape. I don't see any visual leaks so I could just put a little tension on that piston. Now I'm going to open the bleeder screw. That's why I broke it free earlier. It's a little eight millimeter wrench. Okay, that's opened and I got a bucket ready to go. I'm going to aim right at that bucket. I can push my piston back safely now and do no ABS damage.

Okay, so the piston is now bottomed out and I'm going to release my tool. Now I can see the piston, see the rubber seal, there's no leaks. Everything looks in good shape here. Tighten up this bleeder screw. You want to take that and look this over to the backside side outside of the way. So I went a little crazy with the thread locker. This is why these bolts are so hard to get out. Now we have our bracket. Mounting bolts little pads that came out. Let's take our rotor off. You could see someone's already put new brakes on. They put new e-brake choosing new hardware. So we'll make sure the adjustment on them is right and correct with the new rotor. Here we have our new brake pads set that we bought from 1A Auto and you can see the rotor is a performance rotor. We went with, there's options online with our rotors for certain cars. So this has zinc coated, cross cut. They're drilled and slotted rotors.

The pads are shimmed like an OE (original equipment) shim. They have the ears on that hold it on instead of riveted on. We have nice deep deviled for displacement of the brake dust and a cooling slot, ceramic mix. I want to show you the type we took off is after market. These were actually probably just done before we got this car. They thought they went with a higher end rotor and they did have to pay unfortunately it probably some money for this, but as you can see they call this a coated rotor and it is actually just painted and you can see how the rim took the paint off. It's not baked in, it's not coated. The shims they bought for high end performance Shims are riveted on and you can actually see this Shim will come right off. They usually slide off and do damage on the rotors.

The bevel point for the brake disperse powder is like not even there. You can see that it's already building up right here. So if you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. Before I install my rotor, I'm going to take a wire brush and I'm going to clean up this is the mounting surface to make sure that there's no rust build up. We want a nice flat smooth surface against the rotor and the hub and I'm going to use a little brake cleaner and I'm going to clean the e-brake shoes and the hub.

So now I'm going to put some ATCs copper coating on my hub where my rotor hat meets, so I don't get any rust build up for the future. I can just put my rotor right on. Now, if you go online, if you do get R slotted in drilled rotors, there's description on them on which way to put the actual angles of the slot in the drilled for the cooling. Now to adjust e-brakes before I put the caliper bracket I'm going to put a lug nut to one or two of them back on hand tight 'cause I want that rotor held tight against that hub so I can get the true seeding of the e-brake shoes. You want to make sure that they're seated flat. This as if the wheels is on. Now, if you turned prior to me putting these on, it turned it was free floating almost like there was no e-brakes hitting. Now with them flushed can feel the drag right there.

But I want it to be a little bit more tighter than that. So that's what this little slot is for the window on the rotor. It's to put a like a flathead screwdriver in and I can find the e-brake adjuster and I can back off or adjust it. All depends on what you need done. I'll go a couple of turns and now I know that that was just backing it off 'cause now it's not even remotely touching, so I want to go up. Now, this part of the rotor factory comes with a nice little rubber boot and somewhere down the line somebody took rotors off and put the new rotors on and they didn't transfer that rubber boot over. You can't get it after market. It's a dealer item and I don't even know if he can go to the dealer and get them maybe be factory only.

It's nice to have because it stops water from getting in there. Ideally you want the e-brake shoes to be touching to a slight drag. Yeah, that's too tight, so that's what it feels like too tight. Now we can bring it back in and back off on it. That's funny one turn does that much. Just going to see if I can get one click off of it. I guess that's where I'm going to leave it right there because when breaks heat up, even though that you break isn't on when they go down the road, those e-breaks can expand. The material will expand just from the heat alone from the rotor. So if it's too tight, when it's cool, when it goes down the road, it will expand. Then you can have a break walk up.

I'm going to leave these on so I can mount my bracket and everything's nice and straight. So here we have our caliper bracket and the hardware's still attached. It'll leave it attached because it's easy to clean when it's sitting in the groves. Now if you've watched any of my videos before, I've discussed several times, all some people found it in their knowledge that they think that you should put caliper grease or silicone on the top of the flyer. Only because you just think, oh, lubricated. Keep the pad slotting. But this is what happens. That's all kicked up. Here's the rod dirt and brake dust attaches itself to grease. So that's not the proper way to do that. So you want to get that grease off of there. So I'll take a wire brush, clean that right up, flip it over, do the same on this side.

No, I'm going to show you where you do clean and put the brake grease. It's right here. You can see the rust built up already. So this person did it backwards, whoever assembled this caliber. Both sides, take the hardware off. Now I got to clean the bottom part of this also. I'll take some brake clean and clean that up. Okay, well I'm letting it dry and I'm just going to clean up the tins. These tins are in great shape. If you question your tins, if they're so rusted or they're distorted by being bent, just replace them. It's like 10, 15 bucks and you'll get so much longer lasting life out of your brake job.

It's well worth it. Okay, and while I let those air dry I'm going to take a wire brush to this and get rid of all this thread lock. Now my caliper bracket's dried, cleaned up, add a little bit of silicone paste. Now we can read, install our shims. So you're going to align this, rack it up right between the snap that down. It's like a little spring look. The same on this side. Now let's check our sliders out. I'm going to take a small screwdriver. Just to peel this boot back a little bit easier. Take the top pin out, doesn't look bad.

Grab some of my paste. I'm going to put it inside that boot and I'm also going to coat my slider pin. So those flat edges, you can put some paste right on those flat edges. Twist it as you install it. You also feel when you do that, you can feel the metal, the bracket hitting the pin, hitting the bracket inside. If you feel a lot of movement like I feel right there, you can add more paste. You can add too much paste. That's why you want to feel it. See how it rattles inside. You can hear it. So being aftermarket calipers it all depends on how they were assembled. They could've been overboard. You know, someone could have gone a little crazy with the machine, but we can fix it on the side by picking up that the grease. There we go.

If you don't have enough slider grease, they'll seize up on you. Also, you can have, if you have an aluminum caliper, you'll hear a thumping noise. That was in good shape too. So on our old pads they have the actual indicator pad wear indicator on them. So we're going to remove those off and we're going to transfer them over to our new pads. I just take a small screwdriver and I go right into where that tab is and I do not stab myself. That's the key to this. Do not stand up. So you see on the pad how it has that little notch there. That's where that tab right there is going to sit. So you want to put this flat piece, which is the indicator towards the pad side and snap it down in.

That's it. You're going to do that to both pads. So now we're going to bring our bracket and put it back over the rotor. We're going to line it up with the knuckle and thread on the actual bracket to the nickel. Hopefully you have better luck than I do right now 'cause I can't seem to get this started. There we go. Okay. The bottom will start at first and then the top one follows. That's a 17 millimeter socket and we're going to torque this down to manufacturer's specs. The specs is 58 foot pounds. Let's see if I can get it up this way. Now we're going to place our pads in, fall right into that bracket nicely actually.

Now, our caliper is ready to mount because we already pushed the piston back slides right on there. No problems. Grab our two slider pin bolts. Wait a minute. Just going to snug these down. Then I'll talk him to specs. If that slider pin moves on you just grab a 14 millimeter wrench and put it right in there. Stop that from spinning just like we did when we dismantled it. Once they snuck out. I'm just going to stop because the Torque on this is only 20 foot pounds. So I'm going to torque it and I don't want to over tighten it. 20 foot pounds. We'll torque this right down.

To the top. Now where everything's mounted, we're ready to go. I'm going to open my bleeder screw and let it gravity bleed into my catch pan. While that's gravity bleeding and I'm just going to remove my lug nuts so I can install my wheel. Now I have a steady stream with no air coming out. I can snug this up. I'm going to replace that. Make sure I put that boot back on. I'm going to clean it all down with brake clean. Now I can mount my tire on. Just put a couple of the lug nuts on, grab the rest. Hand tighten them up before you lower the vehicle. I'm going to lower my vehicle. Just put the little bit of weight on the tire enough to torque it. 21 millimeter socket and I'm going to torque my wheel lug nuts in a star pattern. And the wheel torque is 76 foot-pounds.

One more time. Now we're ready to pump the brakes. Feels good. Let's check out fluid. So the master cylinder is located in the driver's seat and the engine compartment. Take the lid off and I can see the level it's right here. That's right at the max where it should be. So we're all set. If you need to add fluid, the fluid is right here. Use only .3 fluid. That's a three. It looks like an S all the time.

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