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How To Replace Rear Brakes 01-10 GMC Sierra 2500HD

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How To Replace Rear Brakes 01-10 GMC Sierra 2500HD

Created on: 2011-03-30

Watch this video with step-by-step instructions from 1A Auto for replacing your worn or old brakes in your 01-10 GMC Sierra 2500HD.

  1. step 1 :Removing the Wheel
    • Loosen the lug nut covers by hand
    • Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step 2 :Inspecting the Brakes
    • Check for gouges on both sides of the rotor
    • Check the thickness of the brake pads
  3. step 3 :Removing the Brake Pads
    • Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
    • Remove the two 18mm bolts from the brake caliper
    • Pull the caliper aside
    • Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Put an old pad in the caliper
    • Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons back
    • Clean the caliper slide bolts
    • Apply bearing grease to the slide bolts
  4. step 4 :Removing the Rotor
    • Pry the clips off the brake rotor
    • Apply rust penetrant to the lugs
    • Tap the rotor with a hammer to loosen it
    • Pull the rotor off
    • If necessary, pry out the emergency brake adjuster plug with a flat blade screwdriver
    • If necessary, adjust the emergency brake with a brake spoon or flat blade screwdriver
    • Clean the emergency brake shoes with mineral spirits
    • Apply anti-seize grease to the brake backing plate
  5. step 5 :Installing the Rotor
    • Slide the rotor on
    • Thread on one lug nut to hold the rotor in place
    • Adjust the emergency brake, if necessary
    • Push on the emergency brake adjuster plug
  6. step 6 :Installing the New Brake Pads
    • Clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush
    • Put the bracket onto the caliper
    • Push the brake pads into the caliper
    • Put the caliper and bracket into place
    • Start the bolts by hand
    • Tighten the bolts to 120 foot-pounds of torque
  7. step 7 :Reattaching the Wheel
    • Remove the place holder lug nuts
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
    • Reattach the center cap
    • Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
  8. step 8 :Testing the Brakes
    • Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
    • Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
    • Road test the vehicle

Tools needed for replacement

  • General Tools

    Large C-Clamp

    Hammer

    Jack Stands

    Large Hammer

    Wire Brush

    Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

    Rust Penetrant

    Bearing Grease

    Anti-Seize Grease

    Mineral Spirits

    Cloth Rags

  • Ratchets & Related

    A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)

    Torque Wrench

    Ratchet

    1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

    18mm Socket

    22mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

    Brake Spoon

  • Wrenches - Metric

    18mm Wrench

    19mm Wrench

Installation Video
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to be showing you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, same as a Chevy as well, same as 2000 to 2007 both GMC and Chevy 2500 HDs. Tools you will need are 18 and 22mm sockets with your ratchet, and a breaker bar and pipe for more leverage. I also do show you a way to get leverage with an 18mm wrench and an additional wrench to hook to it, large regular screwdriver or small pry bar, a large hammer, small and small stubby regular screwdrivers, also a brake spoon for that part of the video would work, wire brush, bearing grease, small hammer and of course jack and jack stands.

Start out by removing your wheel. Carefully remove the plastic retainers and your center cap and then if you are working with hand tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up and secure it, and then remove the lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools here, so I removed the lug nuts and removed the tire.

So taking a closer look at our brakes, you can see our discs are really deteriorating here, so we are going to replace those, and you can see right in there, that pad, we had a little bit of life left and the other one looks like it's got more, but obviously we are going to replace the pads as well.

So to remove the calipers, here, what we are going to do is we are going to undo this 18mm bolt here and then the same one down here, an 18mm bolt. These are Torx screws, but this top one is very difficult to get to, so what we are going to do is we are going to take the bolts off and remove the whole caliper bracket and everything first. Before you unbolt it, what you can do is take a large screwdriver. I have a breaker bar here. Feed it right into this hole here and pry out and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. There is somewhat limited room here, so I put my 18mm wrench on there, take another wrench which gives me a little extra leverage, and if you have a breaker bar and a socket available then you can usually fit those in there as well. I am just showing you this as an alternative method. I can remove this bolt and it comes right off. The lower one is easier to get to so you can use the ratchet or breaker bar, or anything, or air tools. I will finish getting this out and you can bring the caliper up like that. I am going to fast forward here. Basically once you pull that bracket up, you just have to force the shoes down through the bracket and the biggest thing is there are little wear tabs that will get caught and you just make sure you bend those wear tabs in and the shoes will go down right through the bracket and you can pull the bracket right off.

Now, what we have here is we got our caliper. I got a big C-clamp and one of the old pads, so I am going to work this caliper with the C-clamp and push those pistons back in and I am going to wipe down these slide bolts. They look like they are in nice shape. Clean up the sticky stuff on them. Put on a little bit of new bearing grease. Make sure they're moving well.

Now I move this caliper, it's got a couple little locks to hold it on. You can either break these off or twist them off. They come off easily enough. Now I am just going to coat this with some penetrating oil. I already know my rotor is in tough shape, so I am not going to worry too much about hurting it, when I get them off. It actually came off really easily. You can hit it right back here where your caliper was and I have open space.

You saw my rotor come off really easy, but that is not always going to be the case. Sometimes your emergency brake might be adjusted so that the rotor doesn't come off very easily, so the first thing you might want to do is to have a short screwdriver, so I am talking with the rotor still on, you reach back here and you can see I am pulling that plug out. What you are going to want do is take another screwdriver or a little bit larger, but still a small screwdriver and go through the back side until you feel this wheel and then you are going to turn the wheel star down, which is bringing the screwdriver up, and that will basically loosen your emergency brake so your rotor will come off easier. So I have used some mineral spirits, and I've cleaned off my shoes for my emergency brake and I see that I got some oil on there and that probably means I've got bad axle seal, but this truck got 240,000 miles on it, so I am not that worried about it. I am going to use some anti-seize here. I'm probably never going to have to get this off again, but if I do have to get it off again now I know I can.

The new rotor from 1A Auto is in a lot better shape than the old one. It goes right on. I lightly secure with a couple of lug nuts and now I am going to take my small screwdriver, go in to the backside and tighten up the emergency brake adjuster, basically until I start feeling it give some friction to the wheel. I am going to fast forward through this. You do want to go on this side with the handle of your screwdriver up and then move it down, which moves the wheel up inside the rotor and it is kind of trial and error. Sometimes you can move it one way and you don't tighten it and then move it the other way and you do tighten it. It takes a little longer, but adjust them until you have good friction from the shoes and then make sure you replace that rubber dust plug.

Here is my bracket for my brake shoes and what I am going to do is just take these stainless steel slides with a wire brush on them and clean them all up. Get all this dirt off of them. Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You can see a little bit more life then the old pads that were on there. So we got our caliper with slide bolts cleaned and well-greased. This can be the problem with these trucks if these dry out and get dirt in them or whatever, the calipers actually seize up and your rear brakes do not even work, so if that the case you may want to replace these slide bolts, but you definitely want to get them out, clean them up and if you have to wire brush them and make sure you get a good amount of grease back on them. I've got my shoes right there. What I am going to do is take my bracket and just put a little tiny bit of that penetrating oil and that is not really going to make it slide, it is just to make it easier to get together. Put my brackets down on to the slide bolts, then into the shoes. Use a small hammer and looking at these carefully, make sure that the wear tabs go through correctly and also that your shoes are in the right spot here. It's just out there. Okay, that shoe is on. It may benefit you to take like a screwdriver or pry bar and just kind of, the shoe is getting stuck here on this slide a little bit. Push it into place and then lower it, and it looks like it could go in a little bit, push them into place a little bit and then it goes down on. You might have to shake it around a little bit before it goes in towards that bolt. Do the same down here. Get the lower bolt started and take out my lower bolt a little bit with the air wrench. I cannot really get a torque wrench down here, so I am going to just put my wrench back on here and tighten this up really good and it should be tightened to about 120 foot-pounds. We will use a torque wrench.

I am going to speed it up here as I remove those two lug nuts, then put the wheel on, hand thread my lug nuts at first, then use my air wrench just to tighten them up a little bit. Very important: you want to make sure before you test drive the vehicle you pump the brakes a bunch of times then make sure it stops from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test.

Here again, fast forward as I have now put the vehicle on the ground and I am torquing the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then I actually go around one-by-one afterwards just to check and make sure that they are all torqued, and then put your cap on and hand tighten the plastic retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Large C-Clamp
  • Hammer
  • Jack Stands
  • Large Hammer
  • Wire Brush
  • Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Bearing Grease
  • Anti-Seize Grease
  • Mineral Spirits
  • Cloth Rags

  • Ratchets & Related

  • A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 18mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Brake Spoon

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 18mm Wrench
  • 19mm Wrench

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1999 - 2003  Chevrolet  Silverado 2500
2004 - 2004  Chevrolet  Silverado 2500
1999 - 2003  GMC  Sierra 2500
2004 - 2004  GMC  Sierra 2500
2001 - 2006  Chevrolet  Suburban 2500
2004 - 2004  Chevrolet  Silverado 2500 HD
2001 - 2003  Chevrolet  Silverado 2500 HD
2004 - 2004  GMC  Sierra 2500 HD
2001 - 2003  GMC  Sierra 2500 HD
2001 - 2006  GMC  Yukon XL 2500
2008 - 2010  GMC  Yukon XL 2500
2005 - 2010  Chevrolet  Silverado 2500 HD
2005 - 2010  GMC  Sierra 2500 HD
2008 - 2010  Chevrolet  Suburban 2500
2006 - 2007  GMC  Savana 2500 Van
2008 - 2008  GMC  Savana 2500 Van
2006 - 2006  Chevrolet  Express 2500 Van
2008 - 2009  GMC  Savana 2500 Van
2006 - 2009  Chevrolet  Express 3500 Van
2006 - 2007  Chevrolet  Express 2500 Van
2010 - 2011  GMC  Savana 2500 Van
2006 - 2009  GMC  Savana 3500 Van
2010 - 2011  GMC  Savana 3500 Van
2010 - 2011  Chevrolet  Express 2500 Van
2011 - 2011  Chevrolet  Express 3500 Van
2011 - 2011  GMC  Savana 3500 Van
2008 - 2009  Chevrolet  Express 2500 Van
2003 - 2005  GMC  Savana 3500 Van
2008 - 2013  Chevrolet  Suburban 2500
2008 - 2013  GMC  Yukon XL 2500
2010 - 2011  Chevrolet  Express 3500 Van
2003 - 2005  Chevrolet  Express 3500 Van
2010 - 2010  GMC  Savana 3500 Van
2010 - 2010  Chevrolet  Express 3500 Van
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