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How to Replace Parking Brake Shoes 00-07 Volvo V70

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto and today on an '03 Volvo B70 I'm going to show you how to replace the parking brake shoes. If you need any parts for your car click on the link below and head on over to 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and I'm going to break the lug nuts free. Now the car is in the air we can remove the lug studs. Remove the bleeder screw boot cover. Sometimes I have to use a flat blade to pop it up. There, put that aside. The bleeder screw is an 11 millimeter so we want to make sure these break open. I just loosen it up and then I just slightly bottom it out, because I'm going to have to release that with the caliper off. Now we're going to remove the anti-rattle clip. And to do that I'm just going to take a pry bar, pry it over the edge like that and then undo the hooks. Just gets a lot of the brake dust and road debris in there. They're pretty hardy, they won't break, you've just got to work it.

There you go. I'm going to end up putting that in the vice and bending it back just at that angle right there. It's not a big deal. Now we're going to just remove the covers on the caliper sliders. They have just little dust covers to protect them from the weather and make it easier so that they don't seize up. And this is an allen head and it's an allen seven, number seven, metric seven. And we're going to release the caliper slider pins. And we're going to undo the ABS clips here, where it attaches to the flex hose just to give me a little bit more flex on the caliper. Because we're going to move that aside. And I'm just going to pull those sliders right out. You've got a top one and a bottom one. And I'm just going to grab a little pry bar. Just going to pry the caliper off the bracket. The rear pad should come out with it just like this. And, as you can see, it's attached by the spring clips that pop in the piston. Snap those out.

Now you can just let this hang. There's not much weight to it. If there was a lot of weight to it I would choose to use my caliper bracket arm, but there's no weight to it. There's no stress on that flex hose. Slide the outer pad out. See how it slides on that bracket? You have two mounting bolts for the caliper bracket to knuckle. There's one here and one there and it's a 13 millimeter socket. I'm just going to break that free. I'm going to break the top free before I pull that one all the way out. Something tells me someone who list did this brake job put a lot of threadlocker on here. Oh look at that. Look how much they loaded that up. Doesn't need to be that much. Remove that bolt and you can slide that bracket right out. Now what I always like to do is take off this mounting bolt on the hub. It's a 10 millimeter socket and I'm just going to try to break it quickly and hold onto the rotor at the same time. And there's your rotor.

I like to use just a pair of needle-nose pliers. You can whatever works for you, but that way I can grab onto that spring. Remove that spring. And if you're not going to take the other side apart, or if you don't already have the side apart for visual, then lay out the pieces the way it comes off so that way you don't get confused of how it goes back together. Or you could just watch this video. Now these are tricky. These are something else. You'll see when I get it out, if you've never taken one of these apart. The design of it is completely weird. You think you've got it and then it different every time. Basically it's a hook inside a slotted area. So you've got to push it down and twist it, but unfortunately you don't know which way to go because you can't see anything. I think I got it. Okay, now you'll see the nightmare that I'm dealing with. I'm going to lift this up. See this design? You can't see it from the front of the shoe so you don't know which way the hook goes. Once it's in there it goes like that or the other way, it doesn't really matter which way it goes. You push in and you've got to line it up perfectly so you're twisting, trying to pull it and line it up in that flat spot perfectly.

Now I'm going to take the bar for the rear part of the shoe, set it aside. I can take this shoe out, take that spring off. This spring does go on the inside. It doesn't go on the outside when you put it together. It doesn't go like this. It goes through the inside. Now I can do the same. I've got to take that spring off the bottom, which is identical to the top one. And I lucked out. First thing I have to do is disconnect this e-brake expansion. It's the piece that, when you pull on the cable, pushes the shoes out. It has this little ear that pops in there. I'll show you how it works after. That's what it looks like closed with this earpiece inside the new cable or the e-brake cable, like that. When you pull on the cable this expands and pushes these two ears out and makes the shoes hit the inside of the hat of the rotor. Before I assemble the e-brake shoes I'm going to clean it with a little brake clean, get some of that brake dust out of the area.

These dots right here on this backing plate, there's a spot there, there. They're highlighted. They're high points. This is where the e-brake shoes, parking shoes, ride on the backing plate. It's a good practice to put caliper grease or silicone paste, something. It just helps the wear and it can also eliminate any squeaking noise, if possible. Now I'm going to put the, what I like to call, the dolphin with the long snorkel. Little bit of copper never-seize inside on this pivot point. See if I can get it down in there. It just helps it from freezing up and seizing up the e-brake parking shoe. Now the hook is what goes onto this piece. And it might fight you a little bit, but it's pretty obvious how it goes in. It's going to go in and snap this way. And it's very cumbersome the way it kind of like just have to manipulate it and don't give up. There we go. See how it slid right in there? Don't come out now. I'm going to push that back in. There we go.

We're going to install the top shoe first. The top parking brake shoe. When you look at your shoes you have the flat keyway here and a more narrow one. The narrow one actually goes on the e-brake pivot. This goes in the back with the bar. I'm going to rest that up there. Line that up. Line it up with that slot there and I'm going to put the spring in. It's going to go in there like that and I'm going to line it up with that slot and turn it. Okay, there it is. And then I'm going to put the bottom shoe on. Now I'm going to put the spring in the shoe in that location. And I'm going to put it in the slot that it calls for. Line up that guy. Now the spring goes behind this. So make sure you get it to go behind and we're going to use the leverage of the shoe and manipulate it down in and into the slot. And there it sits.

I can hold it, it's not that hard, and I can slide in the spacer for the rear. And you see how it goes right into the shoe? No slots in that flat piece. And then it's in. At this time I can put the bottom spring in and line it up with that inner cutout, the slot. Got it. Last spring to put in is the back spring on the front part of the shoes, facing the front of the car. It goes into that little keyway slot and then on the top. And there it goes. And I just like to move it around, make sure they're all seated. And before we install our rotor I like to clean this hub up. I'm just going to to take a wire brass brush to it. Just take any rust peaks off. Because that will cause the rotor to pulsate. And it's just going to not seat correctly. It'll go down the road and have a little pulse. I'm going to spray it down, get all that rust off. Put a little copper high-temp anti-seize on the points, so it doesn't rust.

Now this Volvo comes with one mounting bolt and there's multiple holes to place that in there. As long as it lines up with one of them. There we go. And that was that little six millimeter bolt with a 10 millimeter socket head. 10 millimeter socket. Let's just bottom it out. Now before we install the caliper bracket I'm going to use my brush and I'm going to clean the spot where the actual pads ride. Because you want those to have a smooth, gliding mechanism. And they have to move back and forth or they'll actually wear out unevenly. Perhaps you've had brake pads that do that and all the key was is that they didn't slide in the bracket. You didn't have a caliper problem. They weren't sliding properly. Now this is the mounting bolt for the caliper bracket to knuckle. Remember when I took this apart and it was a lot of force. I'm going to clean all the old threadlock out of there and add just a dab of new stuff before I re-mount this.

Here's the slider for the caliper and this is what it looks like prior to cleaning it. It's just just all filled up with gunk. That will not slide in nice in a nice even stroke through that caliper bushing. And I took a wire wheel brush to it and I cleaned up all that gunk. And we'll just apply some brand new caliper grease so it slides properly. Now I'm just going to take a pair of welder's clamps and I'm going to push my piston back. This has ABS so we can't just push the piston back without opening that bleeder screw. I broke it free to make sure it breaks free prior to doing any repairs on this. And I'm just bottoming it out. I'm not actually pushing that piston back yet. And it's an 11 millimeter socket, so I'm going to break open that bleeder screw. I've already got a catch bucket down below so I'm going to make sure I aim for that. Take the pliers and start compressing the piston. I'm going to bottom this piston all the way out.

This is a good time also that I can actually look for leaks around the dust boot. I want to make sure the piston doesn't have any slag to it, like hold up it doesn't compress all the way. It looks good, I don't see any fluid coming out. There's no tears in the dust boot and the piston is flush. Now with that clamped tight, holding that piston in I can close up my bleeder screw. Just snug it because we're going to open it up again to gravity bleed it once the shoes are one. And so I can disconnect my clamp. The inner pad, line up those three springs. I like to do it with one even push. And the outer pad I can sit right in here, right in the grove. Here's the caliper grease that I'm going to put inside that slider boot on both caliper sliders. Just going to coat that rubber piece. And now I can mount that right up and get my sliders that I cleaned. Here's my new sliders, I'm just going to add a little grease to them. And line them right up and slide them into that boot.

Make sure that I don't leave any of those bristles behind. The slider pins are an allen head number seven, just in case you put it back in the pile and you didn't know what number it was. I'll be torquing this down also. The torque spec is 22 foot-pounds. I'm just going to bottom these out. I like to get them both started in the thread before I actually tighten them. Now I can reassemble my ABS wire to the flex hose. I'm going to install our dust cover boots on the slider pins. Now I'm going to install the anti-rattle clip. I like to put the piece in here first. If you need to use a little hammer feel free to tap it in. And now I'm going to see if I can get it to go. Line up and then I'll just tap it in. Make sure they're flush so the bar goes behind the ears of the caliper and hit both parts of the bracket. That's called an anti-rattle clip, it stops that caliper from flexing.

Now I'm going to open the bleeder screw and I'm going to let this gravity bleed until all the air come out. I've got a steady stream of brake fluid with no air bubbles so I'm ready to close off this bleeder screw. Just snug it. I'm going to clean that up and put the boot back on. After I've done the brakes I'm going to check my reservoir and add brake fluid. Now the reservoir is located right here in front of the driver's seat of the engine compartment. And you can see the cap clearly says "brake fluid." And it tells you .4 brake fluid. This is a European car. Take the cover off. I can see the markings on the side. There's a max and a min and I'm right at the minimum line. Now I'm just going to add some fluid, top it off. Now that the level is at the proper level I'm going to reinstall my cap. I'm going to go in, pump my brakes, see how the pedal feels and see if I need to do any additional brake bleeding. Brake pedal is nice and firm. It's time to put the tire on and road test it.

Now I'm going to install my tire. Now put all the lug nuts, or studs shall I say, in. Just tighten them up by hand. Lower the vehicle and we'll torque it to specs. Wheel torque for this vehicle is 103 foot-pounds. And I'm going to torque it in a star patterns

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Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Large C-Clamp
  • Hammer
  • Drain Pan
  • Wire Brush

  • Hex Wrenches

  • 7mm Allen Wrench

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Copper Anti-Seize
  • Brake Fluid
  • Anti-Seize Grease

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Vise Grip Pliers
  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 12mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket

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