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How to Replace Parking Brake Hardware 06-15 Toyota RAV4

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What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the front wheel bearing and hub assembly, on this 2010 Toyota Rav4. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

All right, I raised and supported the vehicle. I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can use a breaker bar. Just crack the lug nuts free while the vehicle is still on the ground. All right, now I want to take the tire off. This one's stuck on there pretty good, so I'm going to put one lug nut on and just hit it on the backside of the tire with the hammer. Break it free. Reason you leave the lug nut so the tire doesn't go flying.

We'll take the lug nut off, and pull the tire off. Now I want to take the caliper off. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Loosen up these bolts right here, this one and this one. It goes up and if the studs or the slides start spinning, you can use a wrench to hold those or even some pliers. Now grab the caliper. I'm just going to rock it back and forth a little bit. Then I'm going to use this caliper hanger. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com, and I'll hook it onto the coil spring and slide it through the caliper. This is going to prevent too much pressure on the hose. If you let it hang from the hose, you could damage the hose.

Now we'll take the brake pads off. Just slide these off. Then I'll take a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. You might need to use a breaker bar if they're on there too tight. Once those are loose, then I'm going to switch to an electric ratchet. It goes up just like that. Slide the bracket off. So now I want to take the rotor off, and sometimes these get stuck on there so you can try to grab and pull it and if not you can use a bolt and thread into, there's two spots on this rotor, right here and right there. Just thread a bolt in there. You just want to put a little bit of pressure on that.

It's actually moving, but what am I going to do is just tap it with a hammer. Now I want to tap in these locations right here, here, here. Just be careful. Don't hit the studs. Just tighten this up a little bit more and you can see the rotor is actually moving, which is good. Just hit ... give it a tap right here. Here we go, grab it and slide it off. All right, everything here is pretty rusty. What I'm going to do is soak this down in some rust penetrant right where the nut is on the front and then also where it bolts up for the knuckles.

All right, while that's soaking, I'm just going to take a 10 millimeter socket and an extension. I want to take this ABS sensor out, wheel speed sensor out. Take that 10 millimeter bolt out. There you go. And try to grab the sensor. A lot of times these get stuck in there, so you may actually have to spray some rust penetrant on that, which I'm going to do. Let that soak for a little bit. Now carefully, I'm just going to grab some pliers, see if I can grab the sensor a little bit and just get it to twist a little. There's not much room in here because of the backing shield.

There we go, got it to twist and we just want to twist it back and forth and there it is. So I was able to get the sensor out without breaking it because we didn't want to break it while we were pulling the hub out. Now I want to loosen up this nut and what I'm going to do is take a punch and a hammer, get underneath here because this is pinged over a little bit, so then it's just preventing the nut from loosening up on its own. I'll just try to bend that back. All right, so when ticking off this nut, I'm going to use a 30 millimeter socket, 12 point socket. We actually sell this socket at 1aauto.com, and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun and you're just doing it by hand, what you can do is take a pry bar, stick it between the lugs right there and then loosen this up with a breaker bar and that'll prevent the hub from spinning. But I'll just use an air gun and a socket.

Take that off. There we go. Now I want to just get this axle loose from the hub, so I'm just going to take a center punch and a big mallet and just give it a couple hits. Yep. I was able to see it move a little bit. I can spray some more penetrant in there and let that soak, but you don't really want to hit it with a hammer right here or you could mushroom the axle and what that's going to do is just prevent you from being able to put the nut back on. Then I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and a ratchet and I'm going to loosen up these bolts on the back side.

That's good. Got them at least to break free. Same on the other side. You can use a breaker bar if they're on really tight or if they're really rusted. There you go. Now they're all loose. Now I'm just going to take them out one at a time. Take that out.

All right, that's all of those. What I could do is use a slide hammer and try to slide hammer it out, but I have a lot of area right here to just hit a regular hammer or a sledgehammer, small sledge, so that's what I'm going to do. Just give it a couple of taps.

And then you can see right here where the shield is, there is a gap, so it is moving, which is good. I could spray some rust penetrant in there and let it soak a little more more, but I think it's going to come off pretty easily. Give it a couple of taps from this side as well. Just get a little tap on the axle, not enough to mushroom it over, but a little bit of taps.

There we go. There's the hub. Here's the old part. Here's the new hub bearing from 1aauto.com. It's got the same machine surfaces for the mounting bolts. The back side has the same ABS ring, front part of the hub has the same studs. Get yours at 1aaauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

So you just want to make sure you clean up any of this surface. You just take a little bit of sand paper, sand it down, or even a file, if it's really bad. This doesn't look too bad. You don't want to forget to reinstall the backing plate, the dust shield. Put this over and this goes on like this. So the open side is where the caliper goes. Take the new hub assembly, slide it in position. You can put a little a anti-seize on there if you wanted to. Might make it easier to take it off if you have to remove it again in the future. Take bolts and with these bolts you could put some thread locker on there as well. Get those started. Sometimes it helps to not push the bearing in too far, just to leave it a little bit loose, get the bolts started and then you can push it in more.

That's the last one. Now I'm going to take a 17 millimeter socket. I happen to have a swivel socket. You don't necessarily need a swivel socket and a ratchet and I'm going to tighten these up, and I like to cross when I'm tightening these up so it tightens them down evenly.

Go across the other side and be careful of, if you're using a power tool, be careful of the CV boot. You don't want to rip those boots. If you're going and using a gun or something, then you're going to want to put something in between there like a piece of plastic or something.

Now I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 71 foot pounds. And these, I don't have to do these in a cross pattern because it's already snugged down. So if you want to, you can, but it's not necessary.

Now we'll take the axle nut or spindle nut, and put that back on. I take the 30 millimeter socket and I'll use a ratchet. Tighten this down. Once it's snug, then I'm going to torque it. All right, so when I tighten this down, the hub's going to spin. So what I want to do is just take a pry bar, just position it like this. We lowered the vehicle so that I can have this the handle side against the ground. Then I'm going to take a 30 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque this spindle nut to 159 foot pounds.

Here we go. That's good. Now after that torques, we want to just take a chisel and we want to just bend this part of the nut down. That's just going to prevent the nut from loosening up on us. Take a punch, give it a tap. You don't have to do a wicked lot, but just enough so that it won't move. So it looks pretty good. All right, now we're going to take and reinstall the ABS sensor. Just slide that back in position. Take the 10 millimeter nut bolt, get that started and just take a 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet and snug it up.

That looks good. So we happened to replace the hub bearing on this vehicle, but if you hadn't, you're going to want to clean up the rust. Just take a wire brush and clean up any rust or any corrosion in these areas, just like that. But ours is brand new.

And now you can install the rotor. Because this rotor is so loose, what I'm going to do is just put a lug nut on, just so it supports the rotor while I install the brakes. That's good. That'll keep that good and tight. Now we'll take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor, take the caliper bolts, get those started. Now we'll just tighten these up by hand and then we're going to torque them. Now I'm going to torque these caliper bracket bolts with a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 79 foot pounds.

That's good. Now I'm going to take the brake pads, we'll just line the ears up. Put those in place, just like that. All right, now I'm going to take the caliper off the hanger. Slide this over here and now I want to compress this caliper. I'm going to use this caliper compressing tool. We actually sell this at 1aauto.com. This is a ratchet style tool. So slide this in here and it ratchets to tighten and also to loosen. As I do this, it's pushing the piston back into the caliper, which is pushing fluid through the hose, back through the brake line, back up to the master cylinder into the reservoir, brake reservoir. And if you do it nice and slow, you won't have any problems. Just go slow and then it's always a good idea to check the fluid level after you've done a brake job, just to make sure you don't have too much or too little. Just compress that piston all the way down.

All right, we'll ratchet that down. Loosen this up, just spin that, tighten that up. That's good. All right, slide the caliper over the pads like that. Take these caliper bolts, get these started here and here. Now we're going to tighten these caliper bolts down. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter wrench to hold the guide pin from spinning, and then torque these with a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 25 foot pounds, just like that, and then do the same on the top. That's good.

Now, install the tire. Take the lug nuts, install the lug nuts. Now I lower the vehicle down to the ground so that the tire's just touching the ground and I'm going to torque these with a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 76 foot pounds and I'm going to do this in a star pattern. The reason you do it in a star pattern is so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. And then I always like to go around again just to double check. Then you're good to go.

Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor, and this is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up. It's going to squish the piston into the brake pads and it's good. Make sure it feels good. And last under under the hood, you want to make sure you check your brake fluid level and make sure it's not too high. If it's above the max, you want to empty some out, use some kind of fluid transfer pump, and then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.

Andy: What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the parking brake hardware kit on this 2010 Toyota Rav4. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com. I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can remove it on the ground with a breaker bar before you raise the vehicle up. That wheel wasn't too difficult to get off. If you do have trouble getting it off, you can just put a lug nut on there and hit the back of the tire with a hammer. Generally, that gets them off. Now I just want to compress this caliper a little bit just to make it easier to pull off. Just take a straight blade screwdriver. Get in here. Just try to pry it out a little bit. That'll just make the pad slide off easier. Now I'm going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use a fourteen millimeter socket and ratchet.

Break these free and then if the slide starts spinning, you can use a wrench on that slide. Before I take that one out, break the top one free. All right, now we'll just take these bolts out. Slide those out. You can grab the caliper and you want to use some type of a caliber hook. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com and we'll just hook this onto the spring right here. That way it keeps the tension off the hose. You don't ever want to just let the caliper hang from the hose because it could damage the hose. Next I'm just going to remove these pads. Just grab the pads and slide them out just like that. Set them aside. Then I'm going to take a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Loosen these two bolts up that hold this bracket on. They're pretty tight. So if you need to use a breaker bar, break them free. To make it easier, I'm just going to use an electric ratchet.

All right. This rotor is stuck on there pretty good. There is these two little threaded holes. What you can do is find a bolt that's going to work with those threads and then take a ... Well, depending on the bolt, I'm using a 12 millimeter socket and electric ratchet. I'm just going to tighten this down a little bit. Now I'm actually going to tap the rotor with a hammer. I just want to tap in these locations. Be careful not to hit the studs. Loosen these up. Tighten that up a little bit more and you could get two bolts. But I'm just going to use one. There we go. Nice and loose. You can slide it right off. All right. Just to show you what some of these springs look like, now you don't have to take the hub off to do this job. I just happen to have the hub off. But I wanted to show you what they look like.

So this spring is going to connect right here. There's the spring part and then it's going to connect over here as well. That's for the bottom spring right next to the adjuster and then these two retainer springs basically hold the shoes onto the backing plate. So what we're going to need to do is push down on this section and then rotate it so it's slotted a certain way and then these two springs up top. So this spring has a longer ear right here that actually goes through this bracket, which is kind of interesting. That's different. It's not that common and then here's the other spring that goes right there. So I am going to put the hub back on and then we'll show you how we take those off. All right, so there's a couple of ways you can do this. You could take these clips off first and then the springs. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take these springs off first and then last, I'll take those clips off. So a lot of times it's easiest to use some needle nose locking pliers.

Try to get in here onto the spring. Lock those on and then just try to muscle it this way. Try to get it over and slide it out like that. So that's one way you can do it. Pull that out. Another way to take these springs out, you could use some hose pliers. What you do is you wrap it around the spring and then with it closed, technically it should not go flying. But it depends on the application. Sometimes it's somewhat difficult. You just twist it a little bit and slide it up. Just watch your fingers. Make sure you wear safety glasses when you're doing this because you don't want that spring to come flying at you and then that just came out real easy. But there's a hole down there and you just bend the spring like that and then slide it out of the hole. So that's good up top. Down below when you get this spring out down here, I'll just use the locking plier technique. Lock it on. Just slide it out just like that. They do make special tools for this.

But a lot of times using the locking pliers actually work better. Just try to slide this out of this shoe just like that. Now we can spread these shoes apart a little bit and then take the adjuster out. Now to get these clips off, sometimes it's a little bit tricky. I'm going to take some of these style needle nose pliers. These are a little flatter. So it makes it a little bit easier or it could make it a little more difficult. But you're going to push on the spring and there's a nail in there. They call it a nail. So what you need that nail to do is pivot. So we need to push on this. Try to get that nail to pivot. Twist it like that. Again, it's recommended you use safety glasses and that's one of the brackets that goes across. Set that aside and try to pull the clip out of the nail. This there it is. There's the clip.

You can slide the shoe off just like that and we'll do the same with this shoe and it helps with this hub machine the way it is so that you can get in here. It makes it a little bit easier. Push down on that. Try to twist that pin. There you go. Slide the shoe off. To take these old nails out, you can just slide them through the hole. This one you have to angle up because of the bracket for where the brakes attach to. The other side, just angle it that way towards the front of the vehicle and then you can get that one out as well.

Here's the old hardware. Here's the new hardware kit from 1aauto.com. Comes with all the same pieces from the old kit, the new springs. There is a difference right to left. It comes with everything you see here plus the other side as well. So one kit can do both sides of the car, comes with the adjuster. It's taken apart. Now these adjusters are directional. So you have to put these together, but also one goes on the passenger side and one goes on the driver's side. The brass looking one on this vehicle goes on the passenger side. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

I'm going to take the new pins. It's always a good idea to replace the hardware whenever you're replacing the shoes. Put the pins in because they can rust over time. I'll put the other pin in first. This one, just slide it at an angle just like that. Generally they just sit there. Okay, now we can take this back shoe. This is going to be the more difficult one because we have this bracket right here. This goes to the parking brake cable. So this is going to slide in here and you can take some brake lubricant and just put a little bit on there. Lubricate this a little bit. Then we're going to slide this. It's going to go over the pin like that. All right. With that lined up, I am going to take this bracket and there's a little hole right there on that side. So this is basically going to hold that bracket that goes to the parking brake cable and that's going to hold that together with the shoe. I'll just let that sit right there.

With that there, I'm holding the pin or the nail on the back side. I'm going to take one of these springs. Slide this spring in position just like that. You want to try to line this spring up the same direction of the nail. We're going to do the same thing, kind of how we took it off. Just use some needle nose pliers. We're going to push that down. When you push it down, carefully try to spin the nail and this may take a couple times.

This isn't the easiest thing to do. All right, and just twist it sideways a little bit. All right, I got it to latch a little bit. So now I'm going to just grab it. Try to twist it. There we go. So that takes a little bit of effort. Just be patient and then what you can do ... Oh, that bracket fell. Pull that bracket out. You don't have to pull the bracket out. But then you can just take your pliers and just make sure that pin has gone through there and we'll put this bracket back this way just like that and then let's get the other side in. Now we're going to take this shoe and slide this in, similar to the back one. This bracket is going to slide right there. Take this spring clip and twist it. There we go. That one was a little bit easier. But like I said, don't get frustrated with it. These are really pretty difficult to do. But you just practice and be able to get it. Then we want to get this bracket in between the two shoes just like that. Get that all lined up.

We can start putting the other springs on. So these are the old springs. So what you want to do is keep in mind when you take these apart, just do one side at a time. So you don't get all these springs mixed up. So you want to line those up with these springs. So the orange one works for the passenger side on this vehicle and then this one, just line this up. Match that one up and that matches that. Now these springs are the same for both sides. So that's not as big of an issue. So what we want to do is I want to get the orange one started first. So this is going to go through this hole here and then you can use a special brake tool if you have one. They make these slide tools that go over here and you just slide it on. But I'm just going to use those hose pliers for this. Just slide it back. Just be careful. Twist the hub a little bit. Give myself a little more area to work.

Trying to get this part of the spring down into that bracket, which it's a little bit difficult with this. All right that's in there. Slip it over here. I'm struggling a little bit with this. So I'm just going to use the locking pliers, locking needle nose pliers. Slide that out. Almost. Oh, and that bracket's sliding down. Slide it up and then push that on just like that. You can use a pick to get this all adjusted properly. That's looking pretty good. Now we can take this other spring since that orange spring is on there good. This part of the spring is going to slide into that hole right there. Then I'm going to use these hose pliers again. I got to get these to line up just that that. It looks pretty good and then now we can put the adjuster on the bottom and then the spring. So the old adjuster's right here, new adjusters right here. We'll put this together.

How you can figure out with which side adjuster you need, you can take this end off and then just grab one part of the adjuster and twist it to the right and see if the adjuster part goes in or out. So this one, it goes out. So we just compare that to this one and when I go to basically tightening it, it actually loosens it. So it's the opposite of what you think. So we're going to take some of this grease. Put a little grease on the threads, not too much and then a little grease on the end. The grease on the end's actually going to hold this piece in there a little bit. So that makes it a little bit easier to install. We'll just loosen this up. Well, we're tightening it as we loosen it because it's reversed. All right, so try to get it generally the location of how it was when you took it apart right about there. So this adjuster's going to go in here like this. Slide that in position there just like that. Now we can install the spring.

All right, so the spring's going to go this way. Now this part of the spring is going into that hole right there on the shoe, the front shoe. All right, get that side in that, on the front shoe. The back shoe, it's not going to go through the hole. It's going to go on this little slot over here on the backside of the shoe. So we'll just take needle nose pliers and just try to move it to that back shoe. I got it almost there. I just got to push it down. There we go. All right, so it's in there right. So now the springs are in. Hard part's over. I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver. Take these clips off. You can take them off both sides. I just want to clean up this caliper bracket. Be careful if you have to reuse those and then take a wire brush.

Just clean up this area right here. Then we'll do the same for the other side. All right, so this is more of a preference. But you can put a little grease on this area right here and then when you take the clip, put the anti-rattle clip back on. Now we're going to take some more grease and just clean up on here. If you had any dirt on there, you want to clean that off as well. But just grease that area up there just like that. Do the same for the other side. What happens on these caliper brackets is they corrode underneath there and the rust actually pushes up on these rattle clips and that prevents the pads from sliding properly. Then also with the slide pins, I'm going to take these slide pins out. Take some brake parts cleaner. Clean these off and a rag. Just wipe them down and then same in the hole. You can spray a little brake parts cleaner in there. Clean those out the best you can just like that. Dump some of that out. Take a little brake caliper grease. Grease up the pin.

Then we'll do the same with the other side. Slide it in. Make sure that little grommet is sealed properly. I need to take this little cover off on the old rotor. This is actually the adjuster cover for the parking brakes. You can pull this off and then you can adjust the parking brakes. Transfer it over to the new rotor. Just take a pocket screwdriver. Get it back in position. That's good. Now we do have a new hub on this vehicle. So we wouldn't need to do this. But normally you would take a wire brush and just clean the hub surface, any of the rust right here and right here. Just try to get in there. Clean it out the best you can. So to adjust these parking brakes, what you want to do is take the rotor, slide this on and just see if you can feel any resistance and this feels pretty loose. So we want to tighten these up a little bit. You don't want them too tight, just tight enough so that you feel some. So I'm just going to use a screwdriver. You can adjust these up like this.

So as I twist this in a rotating clockwise motion, it's actually pushing out on the shoes, which is what I want. All right, that should be good. All right, see that's almost too tight right there. So let's loosen it up a little bit. So now I'll just go the other direction just like that.

It's a good idea to do it maybe three rotations and then three rotations and that feels pretty good right there. I think we're good right there and then you can always pull that plug out and then adjust it either direction if you want to adjust it a little bit finer. There you go. All right. First thing I want to do, put the rotor on backwards. So I'm going to spray the rotor. There is a protective coating on the rotor. So just wipe it off. That's just to prevent it from rusting and slide it the other way and then spray some more brake parts cleaner and wipe it off. Now we'll take the bracket, slide that back in position right there. Take the caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts. Get those started and I'm just going to take my 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Tighten these up. Now I'm going to use that same 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to tighten these bolts to 65 foot pounds.

Now, take these brake pads. It doesn't really matter which way they go. Slide those in position there and then same on the inside. That's good. Now we can grab the brake caliper. Slide the hanger off of the caliper. Then I'm going to use a piston compressor, caliper piston compressor. There's obviously different types of caliper piston compressors. We actually sell this one at 1aauto.com. I like the way this one works. Just get this lined up in there and then it ratchets. Ratchets one way to tighten it and another way to loosen it. Now you want to go nice and slow when you're doing this. As you're compressing this piston into the caliper, fluid's going through the lines up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir. So it's a good idea to check the reservoir after you're done and adjust accordingly.

All right, loosen this up. Take the caliper. Slide it over the pads. Take these caliper bolts. Slide those in there, one there, one there. Then I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 20 foot pounds and if you have to, you can use a wrench to hold the the slide from spinning. If the slide spins, then just use a 14 millimeter wrench. That's good. Same with the bottom one. All right, for the bottom one, I just need an extension because the hose was in the way just like that. Now I'm going to reinstall the tire.

Take the lug nuts. Install the lug nuts. Now I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm torquing these lug nuts to 76 foot pounds and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. That way, the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'll just go around again, just make sure. Good to go. Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor and this is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up. It's going to squish the piston into the brake pads and that's good. Make sure it feels good and last, under the hood, you want to make sure you check your brake fluid level. Make sure it's not too high. If it's above the max, you want to empty some out. Use some kind of fluid transfer pump and then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.

Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door, the place for DIY auto repair and if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Hammer
  • Pick
  • Wire Brush

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Brake Grease
  • Cloth Rags

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Hose Pliers
  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 14mm Socket
  • 17mm Socket
  • 21mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Brake Caliper Hanger
  • Brake Caliper Compressor Tool. Quad Piston. Ratchet Style.

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 14mm Wrench

2010 - 2012  Lexus  HS250h
2008 - 2013  Nissan  Rogue
2011 - 2015  Nissan  Leaf
2007 - 2015  Nissan  Sentra
2006 - 2015  Toyota  Rav4
2003 - 2012  Toyota  Matrix
2005 - 2010  Scion  tC
2003 - 2007  Pontiac  Vibe
2003 - 2006  Toyota  Corolla
2000 - 2005  Toyota  Celica

10-12 Lexus; 05-16 Nissan; 03-10 Pontiac; 05-10 Scion; 00-16 Toyota Rear Parking Brake Hardware Kit

Toyota Nissan Lexus Pontiac Scion Rear Parking Brake Shoe Hardware Kit Dorman First Stop

This part replaces:

  • Reference Number H17402
  • Dorman HW17402
  • Dorman H17269
  • Dorman First Stop HW17402-BX

Part Details

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