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How to Replace Oil Pressure Sensor 97-06 BMW 325 Xi

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How to Replace Oil Pressure Sensor 97-06 BMW 325 Xi

Created on: 2019-08-28

Watch this video to learn how to replace the oil pressure sensor on your 97-05 BMW 3 series yourself. 1A Auto makes it easy to DIY with step by step guides

  1. step 1 :Removing the Air Filter Box
    • Disconnect the negative battery cable by loosening the 10mm nut
    • Remove the air collector push pin retainers
    • Remove the air collector
    • Disconnect the MAF electrical connector
    • Loosen the air filter box hose clamp
    • Disconnect the air tube from the air filter box
    • Release the air filter box lever latches
    • Remove the air filter box lid
    • Remove the air filter
    • Remove the two 10 mm bolts securing the air filter box
    • Disconnect the wiring from the retaining tab
    • Remove the air filter box
  2. step 2 :Removing the Cabin Air Filter Tray
    • Unlock the three twist locks to release the cabin air filter cover at the rear of the engine compartment
    • Remove the cabin air filter
    • Remove the four T30 screws along the rear of the cabin air filter tray
    • Pry the tabs along the wiring retainer to remove the wiring
    • Remove the cabin air filter tray
  3. step 3 :Removing the Oil Dipstick Tube
    • Remove the two 10 mm bolts to remove the middle engine cover
    • Remove the wiring from the retaining brackets above the fuel rail and move the wires aside
    • Cut the wire tie securing the wires to the intake plenum
    • Disconnect the breather hose from the valve cover
    • Disconnect the electrical connector below that breather hose
    • Remove the weather stripping from the drivers side engine compartment barrier
    • Remove the twist lock to remove the engine compartment barrier
    • Remove the vacuum hose and wire from the engine compartment barrier
    • Disconnect the two hoses from the intake snorkel
    • Loosen the two hose clamps on the inner end of the intake snorkel with a 6 mm socket or flat blade screwdriver
    • Remove the intake snorkel
    • Remove the fuel line and small vacuum line from the retaining bracket near the dipstick tube
    • Remove the 13 mm bolt securing the dipstick tube
    • Disconnect the vacuum hose from the dipstick tube
    • Remove the dipstick tube
  4. step 4 :Removing the Throttle Body
    • Disconnect the purge solenoid electrical connector
    • Pull out the purge solenoid and disconnect the hoses from it
    • Disconnect the upper electrical connector from the driver side of the intake plenum
    • Disconnect the electrical connector below the driver side of the intake plenum
    • Disconnect the alternator and camshaft sensor electrical connectors
    • Remove the 10 mm wiring junction bolt
    • Remove the two 10 mm wiring junction nuts
    • Cut the wire tie securing wires to the rear driver side corner of the intake plenum
    • Disconnect the electrical connector at the rear of the intake plenum
    • Remove the T30 bolt securing the idle air control valve to remove it
    • Disconnect the throttle body electrical connector
    • Remove the four 10 mm bolts to remove the throttle body
    • Make sure the throttle body gasket is removed
  5. step 5 :Removing the Fuel Injectors
    • Remove the 16 mm lower driver side intake plenum mounting nut
    • Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster
    • Remove the T30 bracket screw at the rear driver side corner of the intake plenum to remove the bracket
    • Remove the small vacuum hose near the starter
    • Remove the vacuum line at the rear of the intake plenum
    • Disconnect the two electrical connectors coming from the fuel injector electrical rail
    • Pull up the fuel injector electrical connector retaining clips
    • Remove the fuel injector electrical rail
    • Ensure the battery is disconnected
    • Remove the 19 mm positive battery cable nut
    • Move the positive battery cable aside
    • Release pressure from the fuel rail by pressing the Schrader valve pin
    • Remove the four 10 mm fuel rail bolts
    • Lubricate the fuel injector O-rings
    • Pull up on the fuel rail to remove it and the fuel injectors together
    • Set the fuel rail aside, or push in the connector to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line
  6. step 6 :Removing the Oil Pressure Sensor
    • Remove the 11 mm intake plenum nuts
    • Plug the fuel injector holes with rags
    • Blow compressed air to clean off the area if necessary
    • Lift the intake plenum
    • Slide the positive battery cable through the intake
    • Disconnect any remaining hoses or electrical connectors that may have been missed
    • Remove the intake plenum
    • Blow compressed air into the intake ports to remove debris if necessary
    • Plug the intake ports with rags to prevent debris entering
    • Disconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector
    • Remove the oil pressure sensor with a 24 mm socket or wrench
  7. step 7 :Installing the Oil Pressure Sensor
    • Install the oil pressure sensor and tighten it with a 24 mm socket or wrench
    • Reconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector
    • While the intake is out, check for deteriorated vacuum lines and replace them as necessary
    • Clean the area around the intake ports with a rag soaked in brake parts cleaner, or a gasket scraper
    • Remove the rags and blow air into the intake ports again
    • Remove the gaskets from the intake plenum
    • Clean the intake plenum surface
    • Insert the new gasket into the gasket channels on the intake plenum
    • Reconnect the electrical connector at the rear of the intake side of the engine
    • Feed the positive battery cable through the intake plenum
    • Lower the intake plenum into position
    • Reconnect the vacuum line under the intake plenum
    • Clean the fuel injector ports on the intake plenum
    • Tighten the 11 mm intake plenum mounting nuts
    • Starting from the center, torque the 11 mm intake plenum mounting nuts to 132 in-lb
    • Install the 16 mm intake plenum bracket nut
    • Reconnect the vacuum line at the rear of the intake plenum
    • Reconnect the electrical connector at the rear driver side corner of the intake plenum
  8. step 8 :Installing the Fuel Injectors
    • Reconnect the fuel rail to the fuel line
    • Lubricate the fuel injector O-rings with transmission fluid or engine oil
    • Insert the fuel injectors into the ports fully
    • Install the four 10 mm fuel rail bolts
    • Reconnect the fuel injector electrical rail to the fuel injectors
    • Reconnect the two electrical connectors coming from the electrical rail
    • Reconnect the air hose to the valve cover
    • Insert the wire retainers into the fuel rail, then connect the wire connectors into the retainers
    • Reconnect the positive battery cable and secure it with the 19 mm nut
    • Reconnect the hose bracket at the rear of the intake plenum with the T30 screw
    • Reconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster
  9. step 9 :Installing the Throttle Body
    • Clean the throttle body surface on the intake plenum
    • Install the throttle body and secure it with the four 10 mm bolts
    • Install the idle air control valve, and secure it with the two T30 screws
    • Reconnect the oil temperature sensor electrical connector
    • Install the electrical junction onto the mounting studs
    • Secure the electrical junction with the two 10 mm nuts and 10 mm bolt
    • Reconnect the throttle body electrical connector
    • Reconnect the crank sensor electrical connector
    • Reconnect the alternator electrical connector
    • Reconnect the electrical connector at the top driver side of the intake plenum
    • Reconnect the idle air control valve electrical connector
  10. step 10 :Installing the Oil Dipstick Tube
    • Replace the oil dipstick tube O-ring, if necessary
    • Make sure not to drop the O-ring into the engine if you need to remove it
    • Install the oil dipstick tube into the hole
    • Secure the dipstick tube bracket with the 13 mm bolt
    • Reconnect the air hose to the dipstick tube
    • Reinstall the fuel line retaining clip to the dipstick tube and secure the fuel line in it
    • Reconnect the intake snorkel to the throttle body and idle air valve
    • Tighten the two worm clamps
    • Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the intake snorkel
    • Install the engine compartment barrier
    • Secure the barrier with the twist lock
    • Install the hose and wires into the barrier
    • Install the weather strip on the barrier
    • Install the purge solenoid onto the bracket
    • Reconnect the hoses and electrical connector to the purge solenoid
    • Install the dipstick into the tube
    • Install the engine cover and secure it with the two 10 mm bolts
  11. step 11 :Installing the Air Filter Box
    • Lower the air filter box into position
    • Install the two 10 mm air filter box bolts
    • Install the air filter
    • Slide the air filter cover onto the air tube
    • Secure the air filter cover with the lever latches
    • Reconnect the MAF electrical connector
    • Tighten the air filter cover hose clamp
    • Insert the air collector into the air filter box
    • Secure the air collector with the push pin retainers
  12. step 12 :Installing the Cabin Air Filter Tray
    • Reinstall the cabin air filter tray and secure it with the three T30 screws
    • Reinstall the wiring harness and hose into the retaining bracket and close the locking tabs
    • Reinstall the cabin air filter
    • Reinstall the cabin air filter cover and secure it with the three twist locks
    • Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten the 10 mm nut

Tools needed for replacement

  • General Tools

    Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper

    Pick

    Wire Brush

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

    Brake Parts Cleaner

    Safety Glasses

    Engine Oil

    Cloth Rags

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

    Pliers

    Side Cutters

    Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions

    Torque Wrench

    Ratchet

  • Sockets - Metric

    24mm Socket

    13mm Socket

    6mm Socket

    10mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

    T30 Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

    19mm Wrench

    13mm Wrench

Installation Video
Watch video

What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the oil pressure sensor on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, head over to 1aauto.com.

All right. The battery's in the trunk. Want to disconnect the negative terminal. Just going to use a 10 millimeter wrench. Loosen up this nut right here. Grab the connector and disconnect that, set it aside. We're going to remove this piece. I just want to take some side cutters, remove these push pins. Be careful not to cut them. Pull that out. I'll just grab this, put this aside. There is a couple clips on there. If it's not coming out too easy, just take a straight blade screwdriver and push those in. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor and just push down. Pull the connector off. Set that aside. Get a straight blade screwdriver, loosen up this worm clamp. Right there. Just like that. You can take that snorkel off right now.

Next, I'm going to take these two 10 millimeter bolts out. You could take this top cover off first if you want to. Unclip it, pull that off, pull the air filter out. But I'm going to keep that all together and use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and an electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric ratchet, use a regular ratchet. Loosen these up. Take those two bolts out. You can grab the air box all as one and just slide it out.

I'm going to take this cover off right here. Just take these clips, twist it to the side. Just like that. Grab this and slide it out. This weather strip might come in the way. It should slide forward. Take the cabin filter out. It slides out as well. You need to remove these wires from this housing right here. You can either take the cover off or you can slide it up right there. I like to take this cover off. Just take a screwdriver. Slide that off like that and put that out of the way. Grab these wires. Pull that down, pull this one down.

Now I'm going to use a T30 socket, extension and a ratchet. I have four screws right there. Take those off. It's all loose. You just slide this pan up. Slide it out of your way. We're going to take this cover off. Normally, you'll have some little covers over here, kind of like these. Just take a screwdriver and pop those out. And then there's two 10 millimeter bolts. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have one. Loosen those up. Use this magnet, grab my bolts. Grab the cover, slide it off.

There's a couple of connectors right here. I'm just going to take some needle nose pliers and squeeze this retainer right here. Slide that through. Same with this one. Slide that through. Just like that. There is a wire tie connecting these wires right here. Just cut it. I'm just going to have to replace it with a new one. Take these wires out of the way. Set them aside. I'm going to disconnect this breather hose right here. Just squeeze these together and you should be able to slide it off. Be careful, it's plastic. They get kind of brittle sometimes. Then we're going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push down on this little clip and slide it out. Just push on that clip.

We're going to take this intake snorkel off. I'm going to take these two hoses off right here. You can just grab them, twist them, slide it out. You could use a little pick in there if you're struggling to get this off. All right. Just go around with that and you should be able to twist it off. It should come off a little bit easier. If you have hose pliers, you can use hose pliers. Hose makes it a lot easier. Take that off. There's a hose that slides off this intake tube right here, so there's two different hose clamps that I have to remove. This one and then the one that's further in there. It's kind of hard to see. I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver, slide underneath here. Try to get on it. Got to loosen that hose clip. You'll be able to see it a little better once I get this snorkel out.

It was actually a little bit easier to take a 6 millimeter socket and extension and a ratchet and loosen that one clamp up like that. Now, I'm going to put it on a longer extension. I'm going to try and get this one out. If not, I'm going to have to use a screwdriver. Use the ratchet and 6 millimeter socket. Try to get this to loosen up. Those are both loosened up. Just grab it, wiggle it a little bit, twist it back and forth. Make sure you don't rip it. And slide it out, just like that.

You want to take the dipstick tube out. There's a bracket right here that has a retainer that holds this vacuum line and then also the fuel line right here. Just slide the fuel line out. Just pop it out like that. And then this little bracket, I'm just going to take some needle nose pliers and just pinch this together. Push it through. A little bit tricky to get in there, but ... And there you go, push that through. Then there's a bolt down here that's going towards the front of the vehicle. So, I'm going to take a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet. If you have a flex head ratchet, that would help out.

All right. I was able to break it free. If you struggle with this, you can try breaking it free with a wrench. It's just really tight in there. All right. I'm going to take that bolt out. Let's take a right angle pick, try to get in underneath it. And then just go around the hose, loosen up that seal. It's made a seal and that's what makes it stick to the hose. Now that loosens, I should be able to twist this. Yep. And pull it off. There we go. Grab the dipstick tube and just slide it out.

All right. We got the dipstick loose. What we want to do is take this cover off right here because we can't get the dipstick to slide any further out. Loosen this up right here. Take that off. Take this weather stripping off right here. Slide this up. Slide this wire out of the way. Oops. It fell down. Just make sure these hoses are not attached. Slide the hoses out of the way. Should be able to slide this cover back. Watch out for this vacuum hose right here. That slides out pretty easily. So then you can slide the dipstick up. A little bit easier to get that out. There you go.

I'd recommend taking this cover out before you started taking the dipstick out. It'll give you a little bit more room in there and it'll be less of a struggle for you. Disconnect the connector right here. This is on the purge solenoid. Just push that little tab down right there. You can remove the purge solenoid, just grab it, slide it out. If you need to, you could use a pocket screwdriver to loosen this up, or just pull it. Then we want to disconnect this hose right here. Push down on this retainer. Twist it out a little bit. Pushing down like that, it's going to loosen up the hoose. And then on the backside, you can just twist it or use a right angle pick. Loosen that up. Try not to rip the hose. Just grab it and try to twist and pull. Just like that.

Connector right here. Remove this connector. A little tab right there, push down on that. Slide that off. And there's another connector right under here. It's kind of hard to see. Just push down on that. Slide that out. You can mark all these connectors if you want to, but they pretty much don't give you enough wire to connect them in the wrong spot. So, you should be all set trying to figure out which connector goes where when you're going to put it back together. Slide that one out. And right here, there's one that goes to the alternator. Just disconnect this connector just like that. And there's one more connector down here. This goes to a camshaft sensor. You can disconnect this one. I think we could probably leave this one plugged in, but we'll disconnect it anyway.

I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet. Take this bolt out right here. Then I'm going to take this nut out, still use the same socket and ratchet. Take that nut off. Right by the throttle body, there's another bolt, a nut that's attached. You're going to have to go under the wire or over this wire right here. Take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet. Take that one out. Once you crack it free, you can loosen it by hand.

Pull the nut out. You're going to slide this out. And that should be out of our way. There's a wire tie right here. Just going to cut that off, just use some side cutters. There you go. Pull these wires out. And then there's this vacuum line right here. I'm going to take this out of that retainer right there. The connector that comes from this junction lock right here, junction of wires. Just follow the wire up, disconnect the connector right there. That one right there, and just push down on that little spring clip.

I'm just going to disconnect this vacuum line right here. Move that out of the way a little bit. Just keep in mind how that was routed. Put that over there. Now there's a little more room. Next, I want to take this idle air control out. I'm going to use a T30 socket, extension and a ratchet. Take these two screws out. Take that out. Take this one out. Right. Pull that screw out. Then grab the idle air control valve. Just pull on it, it should come right out. All right. I really had to force it out. Grabbed it like this and then used my other hand and pulled it real hard, got it out. There's just a rubber grommet that holds it in there.

All right. This throttle body connector right here. We'll disconnect that. Just push down on that tab, slide the connector off. Just like that. Put that out of the way. Right. We're going to pull the throttle body off. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one. Take these four bolts out. Get these two more on the bottom. All right. Slide that out. Now, we're going to grab the throttle body and just slide it out. Make sure the gasket comes with the throttle body, or you can peel it off the intake if it gets stuck to the intake.

Now, there's the bolt or a nut that's underneath here. We're going to have to take that off. That's holding this bracket that holds the bottom of the intake. I'm going to use a 16 millimeter socket, a long extension. Get right on there. I'm going to use a breaker bar to break it free. Once it's loose, then I can use a ratchet. All right. I've got that loose. Carefully pull the socket out with the nut on there. I'm going to disconnect the brake booster hose. So, just grab this carefully and just pull it out. I'm going to have to twist it a little. You're going to hear the vacuum leaking out when you pull it off, just like that. Just make sure that grommet stays in there properly. And there's a bracket that holds this hose on. I'm going to take that screw out of the bracket.

Now, this bracket, if you're able to unclip this hose from the bracket, you can do that. This one's pretty rusty, so I don't really want to risk it. I'm just going to take this screw out. I'm going to use a T30 socket and a ratchet. Take that screw out. Slide that down. There's a vacuum hose right under here. It's kind of hard to see. It goes right under the starter into this little cylinder thing. You can try to take it off right there. This one actually ripped right there because it's all dry, rotted and brittle.

Right. Pull that vacuum line up or if you disconnected it from up top, that's fine. And then this little retainer that holds it in there, I'm just going to pull that aside. Set that over there. On the backside of here, there is a vacuum line with a one-way valve. We're going to leave that attached. I'm going to leave that attached for right now. There's another vacuum line that comes from this side of the vehicle. Just disconnect that. Set that aside. Disconnect this connector right here. This is another one of those spring connectors. You just push down on the spring and slide the connector out. It's a little bit hard to show. My hand's in the way. Get that. The seal actually got stuck to the sensor. So, I'm just going to take a pick, slide the seal off, and then reinstall that right in there because you don't want to lose that because that keeps it weatherproof.

Now, we want to disconnect the fuel injector connectors. Right. What I'm going to do is take a pick, and there's a little clip on the injector connector right there. Just going to slide it this way. Slide this this way, pull the clip out of the way. You might need two picks while you're doing this. I'm going to do all six injectors. Just like that. Hopefully that sits right like that. Do the same on these. Right. All those clips are taken off of the connectors. Just slide this harness up. Be careful of this hose. There's a little bit of insulation on this hose that gets in the way a little bit.

See if you can get that past. You don't want to rip the hose. Make sure none of these click back in. This one clicked back in. Just slide this out. That's off. That ones off, so that should all come up. Slide this out of the way. There's all the clips. You don't want to lose these. Try to get these back on, so that when we put it back together, it's a little bit easier. Just like that. And they probably make a special tool for removing these. If you don't find it on the connector, it's probably down near the injector. Just grab a pick, pull it off. Just slide it back on the connector. Just take this harness, slide it out of the way. Just leave that over there. Now, before I pull the fuel rail up, I am going to disconnect this cable right here that runs across. Make sure you disconnected the battery in the trunk if you hadn't done that yet. There should be a cover that goes over this, pull that cover up. Taking a 19 millimeter wrench and loosen this up.

Take the cable off. Slide it there and then place it over on that side. I am going to release the fuel pressure. Just take this cap off right here. There's a schrader valve in there. I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver. Make sure you take a rag. It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing that. I'm just going to push on that schrader valve and it's just going to release any fuel pressure. There's not really any fuel pressure in the system right now, so that's good. I'll just put the cap back on.

Now, there's four bolts that I'm going to take off the fuel rail. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet. Loosen these up. I'll just go around and loosen them all up first and go back and take them up. I want to pull the fuel rail up. There's a couple ways you can do this. There's some clips right underneath the injectors right there. You can pull those up or you can just pull the rail up with the injector. But generally, the O-rings in there get stuck in there. Take a little bit of lubricant. Make sure it's not a silicone based lubricant because you don't want to ruin the O2 sensors. But something that doesn't have silicone in it. Let that soak for a minute.

Now that that has soaked a little bit. You could even use a little bit of engine oil or transmission fluid would be acceptable as well. It's not going to hurt anything. I'm just going to get a pick and try to get under here. Try not to crack anything. Just try to slide this up. Try to wriggle it back and forth a little bit. The pick's not going to work. Okay. That slid right up. That actually wasn't too bad. This harness is in my way, so I'm just going to move it over here. Just rotate this a little bit. And you can disconnect the fuel line right here if you want. You could probably just slide this out of the way if you have the room. But there's the disconnect right here. And as long as you've bled the pressure off, this shouldn't spray too much pressure. It's still a good idea to have safety glasses on. You're going to push in on the fuel rail, push this disconnect off, and then you're going to try to slide it all out together. Just like that. The connector stayed with that. And there you go.

Right. Now, I want to take these nuts off. They're all holding the intake down. I'm going to use an 11 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet. I'll loosen these all up. I realized there's a little more dirt in there than I'd like to see. So, what I'm going to do is just cover up these little ports for the fuel injectors. And then I'm just going to take a blow gun and blow that out of the way. None of the dirt's probably going to down these injector holes, but just to be a little more cautious.

Now, we can pull these out. There's a little less dirt, which is nice. Okay. This is all loose. Just rock those back and forth a little bit. And just slide it out. This positive cable is going to go through the intake, so just unclip it right there as you slide this out. Just do it gently in case something's still attached. Then we have this hose attached right here. Remove the connector right here. Slide that connector out of the bracket right there. This is not attached. Slide it out. There we go.

Now, what you want to do is check in the intake valves that are right here through all of these ports. Just make sure there's no dirt or anything in there. What you can do is take a blow gun and just blow it out if you see anything in there. Make sure there's no metal in there. Obviously, you don't want to drop a bolt in there. What you can do is take some rags and just stuff up these holes. You just want to make sure you remove these rags before you put it all back together. I try to leave them out a little bit so it's obvious you don't forget these.

To disconnect the connector, there's a little spring retainer, just like the other connectors, on the backside. Just push on that, slide it out with a 24 millimeter socket and a ratchet. You could also use a wrench if you want to use a wrench. Just loosen this up. Once you break it free, generally you can do it by hand. If you want, if you need to, if it starts dripping, you can put a rag underneath. But there's nothing coming out. And there you go.

Take this sensor. Slide it back in position. And then take a 24 millimeter socket or a wrench and snug it up. And that's good. Take the proper connector and slide it back in position, lock it in place. All right. When you have the intake off, it's a good idea to look at your vacuum lines because if they're old and decrepit like these, then it's a good idea to replace them because they're going to leak especially on the ends and stuff. So, get some vacuum line. This is 530 seconds vacuum line, and just reroute it the way it came off. And there's also a vacuum line over here. There's a vacuum accumulator right there, and there's one that goes from that all the way up to right here next to the brake booster. So, it's a good idea to check that line and replace that as well.

I'm going to leave these rags in the intake ports while I clean around the intake area. Take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag and just wipe it down. If you have any tough spots, what you do is take a scraper and just very gently scrape it. Scrape off some of the dirt, wipe it off the rag. Try to keep as little dirt out of the intakes as possible. They do make plastic scrapers. You could use one of those, or plastic razor blades. You could use a razor blade if you're very gentle. Be careful. Don't scratch any of the metal, the aluminum. It is soft, so. Here's one of those plastic razor blades or scrapers. You can try this. These don't work great. They work okay. Sometimes it's easier just to use a real razor blade, but they're not dangerous to the head of the vehicle or any of the engine parts. It's not going to gouge into the aluminum.

All right. That's all cleaned up. I'm just going to take some compressed air, and just anything loose, blow it away. Now, it's important that you take these rags out before you install the intake. So, just grab some needle nose pliers. Take the rag out. Make sure if there's anything got on top, it doesn't fall down in there, any debris. Just slide these out. Then what I like to do, again, is just look down the ports, see if you see anything. And take a blow gun and blow them out. We want to get the intake ready to install on the vehicle. We're going to take the old intake gasket off and just peel it off just like this.

Now, we do want to take a rag and some brake parts cleaner and just clean these all out. Make sure you don't get anything inside the intake runners. A little bit of brake cleaner is not going to hurt it, but you don't want any dust to go up there or anything. I'm just going to tip it and let it dry. All right. That's all clean. You can just take a rag and try to dry some of that. Take a screwdriver. Get right in there. Just go all around like that. It looks good. Then take the new gaskets or seals. Install these. These are a little bit different. They're not all connected, but they're still going to do the same job. Just match these up the right way. Just like that. And do the same with the other ones.

All right. I temporarily reattached this fuel rail so fuel would not spill out. I'm going to disconnect this now. Just make sure it doesn't spray on you. You could use a rag to cover this if you wanted to. Just push down. Push down on this. And then slide it out. It comes out just like that. A little bit of fuel. Set that aside. Before I install the intake plenum, I want to connect this connector right here because it's going to be hard to get to. So, I'll just slide this over here. That's the connector that goes to it. Lock that in place right there and then just try to have these wires out of the way when you're doing that. All right. That's all set. This is going to go in the front. Just move that out of the way. You could clip this up there.

This positive battery cable is going to go through here. Slide that through. It's going to go up through here as well because it goes and gets secured right there. Just slide that like that. As you're installing this, just feed that through. Then we're going to look underneath. There's a couple of things we have to attach underneath here. These knock sensors we have to attach into that bracket. While you have this up in position, try to get that installed. It's going to be hard to see. You're just going to have to do it by feel. All right. That seems good. Just make sure they're all in there.

And then one thing to keep in mind also before you go any further, just look down the runners from the intake ports and see if there's anything fell down in there. You could use a blow gun again, blow that out. That looks good. And there's a stud underneath here. You have to line that stud up with that bracket. As you line up the studs for the intake top, just like that. Make sure you're not going to pinch anything over here. It's looking good.

Great. Underneath here right where this accumulator is right there, you need to hook up this vacuum line that comes off the intake. It's a good idea to hook it up right now before you tighten anything down just because it's easier access. Hook that up, make sure that's out of the way. That's good. One thing I should've done while I was on the bench with the intake plenum was clean out these fuel ports. Just take a rag and a screwdriver. Just give it a twist, clean those out. They're not too bad, so I'm not worried about it. But it's a good idea to do this on the bench before you put it on.

Now, I'll take these intake nuts and install these. All right. With all those nuts in, I just want to hold the intake, and I'll take an 11 millimeter socket, extension. And I'll use an electric ratchet just to snug them down, and then I'm going to torque them. Then I'm going to use a torque wrench and I'm going to start from the center nut and work my way outwards. I'm going to torque these to 132 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. There's no specific order for which you have to torque these, I just like to do it from the center, working my way out. That's good. Just alternating side to side, front to back.

After those upper intake nuts are secure, then we can secure this bracket that goes at the base of the intake on that stud. Take that nut. I know it's kind of hard to see. Once you get that stud into the 17 millimeter socket and extension and the ratchet, then we'll tighten this up. And just snug that up. It's good. Okay. We want to reconnect this vacuum line on the back of the head, I mean on the back of the intake plenum. You're just going to have to feel for it. You really can't see anything. This one. I have this connector right here. While you have some of this stuff pretty loose, you can get in here. And you just want to connect this. There's a solenoid on the back of here, the vacuum actuated solenoid. So, I'll just plug that in while you can access it.

Now, we're going to match the fuel injector rail. We're going to find the fuel line back here. There's the fuel line. Okay. I'm just making sure I'm not going to block anything. What we can do is attach this. Try not to spill any fuel. Just twist it a little bit. Lock that in place. It's good. We can slide this back over here into position. There is a bracket that this fuel line will sit in on the backside here. I think that vacuum line might be in my way. I'm going to disconnect that vacuum line and then reattach it. All right. That's good. Reattach that vacuum line over the fuel line.

Now, before you slide these fuel injectors back into the intake, what I want to do is just lubricate the seals. It's a good idea to replace these seals or you can just check and make sure that they look pretty good. But generally, replace those. What I like to do is use a little bit of transmission fluid, a little ATF. Just put it on your fingers and then just rub the seals. It's a good idea to use either engine oil or transmission fluid. Otherwise, if you use a silicone lubricant, you're going to cause your O2 sensors to fail. So, you don't want to do that. Just lube them up. That's just going to make them go in a little easier. Make sure those holes are clean. Line them up. Get those lined up and just press this down. Just wiggle it a little bit. Just like that, so they're down. There we go. There you go. Those are all the way down. Now, I can reinstall those bolts. Get these bolts. Get these all started, and then we'll snug them down.

Right. Now, take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet, tighten these down. Just snug. Now, take this. These are the connectors for the fuel injection. Just make sure you connected that in the back underneath the head or on the head. That's all set. I'll just slide this over here. Slide this in position. When those are all lined up, just grab it, lock it in place. Take this connector, connect that to this solenoid right here. Lock that in place. And there's one right here. Connect that one. Make sure they're tight. So we don't forget about this, just hook this up now lock that in place.

I'm going to take these retainers off right here. Just slide this into the fuel rail first, then it'll be easier to install these connectors. Slide the wires in first and then the connector. Just like that. We can hook this battery positive cable up. This goes from the starter motor. Just take a wire brush. Clean this up if it looks like it's got any corrosion on it. Just make sure it's nice and clean. Take this as well. You can clean this area. Even the backside of the nut. That's all clean. Reinstall this here, just like that. Just take a 19 millimeter wrench and snug this up. That's good. And then if you have the cover, put the cover over there.

Right. Now, I'm going to reconnect this bracket right here. Just take this little screw here. Get that started. In actuality, we probably didn't need to take that off, but it's okay. I'll take a T30 socket and a ratchet, get this started, and I'll snug it up. Right. Now we can reconnect this vacuum port to the brake booster. Just carefully slide that in. Right. Make sure you have a new seal. If you don't have a new seal, just make sure it's at least raised up from the actual throttle body, which is good. And then also make sure you clean this surface right here. Just take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag, just wipe this down. Make sure this surface looks good. Take the throttle body with your new gasket. Slide that in position and take one of the bolts. Right. That's good.

Now, just take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet, and I'll snug these bolts up. Not too tight. Take this idle air control valve. Make sure the grommet is in the intake in the proper location. And then we'll line this little part right into that grommet. Slide it in. And take these screws. Get these lined up. And then get the other ones started over here. Let's get them both started then we can snug them down. Just take a T30 socket and a ratchet, and we'll snug these up. It's good. Now, I want to reattach this piece, but just make sure any connectors you can get, plug those in. This one was to the oil, oil temperature sensor. That goes right there. And then once we attach this, there's a stud right here. That. And there's a stud down below here. Make sure you get that bracket on the stud. I'm going to take the two nuts. There's one that goes up here. Get that one started. One goes to this lower stud. Get that one on. And then we have a bolt that goes right there. Install that bolt.

And I'll just take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet, tighten this up and those other two nuts. For this lower nut, I just used a extension. It's kind of hard to get to, so. And just snug this one up as well. Now, we're going to plug in the throttle body connector right there. Line it up, lock it in place. And there's a crank sensor connector right here. Line that up. Lock that in place. This connector right here goes to the alternator. Plug that in. Lock it in place. This connector is going to go right here, lock that in place. This connector goes to the idle air control valve right here. Line that up. Lock it in place.

Where the dipstick hole is, where it goes into the engine, there's an actual O-ring there. It's a good idea to replace that O-ring if possible. You're going to have to use a pick and try to pick it out and just make sure it doesn't fall into the engine oil pan. But ours looks okay, so I'm not going to need to. But if you end up with a ... You could end up with a vacuum leak afterwards or even an oil leak, so just keep that in mind if you're pulling the dipstick tube out.

With a new O-ring or take the old O-ring out of the engine, just slide that up there. And you can lubricate this with some white lithium grease or some engine oil. And I'll just line this up in position. These coolant hoses get in the way a little bit. Got to move those out of the way. And then slide that down just like that. All right. Push that dipstick down. Make sure it goes down all the way. What you could do is take a mirror and just check the bracket, make sure the bracket's lined up with the bolt hole. Sometimes it can be tricky. Just make sure you lubricate the O-ring. And I should be able to get it. Now I'm going to put the bolt in. Just got to get it lined up.

All right. Now, I'm going to tighten that bolt down. I'm actually going to use a 13 millimeter swivel socket and an electric ratchet. If you don't have a swivel socket or an electric ratchet, you can use a regular one. It's just there's not a lot of room to work back here. I'll just tighten this up. Snug it down. I'll go back with a wrench. Just use a 13 millimeter wrench and just snug it. You could use a ratchet wrench also. There we go. That's good. Here's the other end of that breather or the drain hose, and we're going to slide that on to the dipstick tube right here. There we go. Just slide it all the way on. And that's good.

Now, I did take this bracket off before I put the dipstick tube on. This is just going to hold the fuel line, so I'm just going to reinstall that. Just slide that back into the bracket on the dipstick tube right there. It's kind of hard to see. Then slide the fuel line back in there. If these hoses got in your way, you could remove this bracket when you're doing the dipstick. Just reinstall this. Slide these hoses back in, and then this'll slide right over here. That's good.

Next, before I install this panel right here, it is going to be significantly easier to install this snorkel. So, we're going to install this now. The way we took it out, we'll do it the other way. But it's a lot easier to get this in. Just line this up. Make sure your worm clamps are on there. And then from up here, I'm just going to use a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and tighten up that worm clamp. It goes on that top port of the snorkel. Snug that up, and then do the same with the bottom one.

We're going to take these vacuum lines. One goes to the top. This comes right off the intake right there. And then this one comes from underneath there, so install that. That's good. Now, we'll take this cover. Slide this over here. If you struggle with this, you can pull the brake booster hose off, get a little more room. There we go. Get that lined up. It's actually one of these push, twist retainers that hold this in. I'll just get that lined up. Push it in. Yeah. That's good. You may have one over here. This vehicle did not have one there, so keep that in mind. And we'll take this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. Line this up right there. Reinsert it into the booster. And then same with this wire, just slide this right there. Then we can take the weather strip. Get this lined up, just like that.

Right. Take the valve and slide this underneath here. There is a vacuum line that you need to attach that to that goes to the intake. So, slide that in position there first. Then this is the mounting ... This is our rubber mounting grommet. You're just going to slide it on to the bracket. Can hardly see. Wiggle that back and forth. This is going to attach to the bottom of the valve. If it makes it easier, you could probably attach this before you slide it into the bracket. And lock it in place. It's good. Take the connector. This is the connector for that. And lock that in place. Install the dipstick. Now, reinstall this cover. Slide it under the wires. This has to, there's a couple clips underneath here that have to slide on to this rail. Let's see. There you go.

All right. Make sure those clips are slide in position, and take the bolts. Get the bolts started. Take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and a ratchet, and tighten this down. Just snug. It is plastic, not too tight. There should be two caps that go over here. This vehicle doesn't have them, they're missing. So, I'm not going to put those in. But make sure you reinstall those caps. You can reinstall the air box. Get that back in position. With this clamp over here, install these two bolts here and here. Take a 10 millimeter socket, extension and ratchet. Tighten these bolts up. Just snug. It's good. Use a straight blade screwdriver, tighten up this one clamp. Snug. And plug this connector in to the mass air flow sensor. Lock it in place. This intake, put it back through the air box. Clip it in place. Take the push pins. Get these lined up.

I'm just going to get them all started first and then lock them down. Lock it down. All right. Now, we want to install this. Just get this lined up. We can get these screws started. I'm going to take a T30 socket, extension and a ratchet, tighten these up. Now, reinstall these wires and this cover right here. Just like that. Take this cover, line it up. And that's good. Take the filter. I'm going to slide it in with the curved side towards the vehicle, so the bowed side more towards the outer vehicle. Just slide that in position like that. I'm going to take this cover. It's going to slide in underneath this weather stripping. Just push it in. Get these lock tabs to line up and lock them down. They're spring loaded. And the last one. And you're good to go. Reconnect the battery, get the negative terminal on. Take a 10 millimeter wrench and just tighten up this nut, and just snug it up. Make sure it's tight, it doesn't wriggle loose, and you're good to go.

Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your part. The place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
  • Pick
  • Wire Brush

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Safety Glasses
  • Engine Oil
  • Cloth Rags

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Pliers
  • Side Cutters
  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 24mm Socket
  • 13mm Socket
  • 6mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T30 Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 19mm Wrench
  • 13mm Wrench


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