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How to Replace Intake Manifold 1998-2012 Ford Crown Victoria

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Okay, so let's get started on our 2005 Ford Crown Vic intake. This is a peek at the top, a peek at the bottom, as you can tell, comes with all those gaskets. We've got some brackets, all the hardware you're going to need, and a brand new thermostat with the gasket. Let's get started.

So before we get started on the hood, we're going to make our way to the trunk. You're going to come over to the left side and you're going to see this. Open this up. You're going to see this little switch right here. This is an inertia switch, and what it does is, in case the vehicle is going to crash or roll over, this is going to trip and it's going to pop up just like this. When you see it in the off position like that, make sure that the fuel pump is shut off. Now, let's continue upfront.

Next, what we want to do is start the vehicle and let it die out because of no fuel.

After you take off the cap up top, you're going to go ahead and come down here. You're going to find the pit cock. You can just kind of loosen that up. If it's stuck on you, you can use a 19-millimeter and then I'm going to try to collect any coolant that comes out down inside my collection bucket.

The next thing we want to do is relieve your negative battery terminal. Set this aside so there's no way you can touch the battery.

Next, I'm going to use a quarter-inch ratchet with an extension, and I'm going to get this out of here. Lift that up, slide it forward. The next thing we're going to do is relieve tension on our tensioner so we can get the belt off. It's a great idea to remember which direction your belt goes. You want to make sure you map out your belt routing in case you can't remember. You could also take a picture. Let's get this right out of the way. Last thing I want is any coolant getting on this.

So, one of the next things I like to do is spray down that EGR tube because we're going to need to loosen that up and/or take it off. So get a little bit of penetrant on there and then follow it down to where it connects on down there. If you look right up along the driver's side exhaust, you're going to see the lower part of that EGR tube. We're just going to cover up the O2 sensor with whatever you've got. I'll use a rag. And I want to try to keep any chemicals I can off of that. Let's let that sit and do its job.

Next thing we're going to do is get this hose off of here. You have a clamp right there. You can use an 8-millimeter or a flathead and then one down here. So we'll loosen those. Give it a little wiggle. That looks good. Come over here. There's a little green tab. You're going to press on that with your index and then just draw this off of here. Okay. Off of there. Set this aside.

Although there's not much that anything can get inside this, let's prevent it anyway just by shoving a nice rag in there. Be careful not to push on that flap.

So what we're going to do now is we're going to start disconnecting the electrical, okay? You've got your coils, your fuel injectors. You've got this up here. This one right there. So pretty much anything that's electrical on this side and then we'll work our way over to that side. If you see a red connector like this, that's the lock. You just kind of pry that up and it pops and then squeeze with your index and draw it off. I always like to take a peek to see if I see any funny colors and then I move along.

Let's do these. Get your coil and then the tan is the fuel injector.

Now that all that's disconnected, you don't necessarily need to worry about these two if you felt the need to remove them. You could do that so you can move this; it's completely up to you. Now that I have everything disconnected that I want to get disconnected on this side, I'm going to do the electrical on the other side. You've got this wire that goes over the alternator. Once again, you definitely want to make sure that your battery's disconnected before you touch this. We did disconnect it. Tuck this aside.

The next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to start disconnecting the electrical right here. Grab this. Pull that right off of there. Twist it aside. We'll come right up here, pressing on this. Awesome. If you look on the backside of this, you're going to see a little yellow connector. That's a press tab. You're going to press on that and then you can draw this away. Cruising right along, we'll go right here.

And now we're going to disconnect the fuel injectors and the coils right down the line.

Now that I have all those disconnected, we'll come right over here. You've got this little wire. This is going to be something that's going to be easy to forget but you definitely don't want to forget it. So, put it wherever you'll be able to find it and be able to see it. If you're worried about it falling down, which I am, I'm going to put a little tie on it, something that I can easily find. So I just went ahead and grabbed something nice and bright. I had a wire laying around. I'm just going to it on there, and I'll very easily find this for sure.

Let's go right up here. I'm going to use some long pliers. Give it a little twist to break it free and then draw it all. If you follow this hose right here, this goes to your heater core and then down to the intake. We're going to remove this clamp, slide it up, and get this hose off of there as well. There might be a little bit of coolant. We did drain the cooling system, so the majority of it will be out. But just in case there is a little bit, make sure you have hand protection and eye protection. Okay. That hose came right up off the intake. Looks great. Just take a peek at those hoses and make sure that they're not dry and brittle.

So now I'm just going to grab a rag. Right under here, I'm going to grab this metal clip. Just try to lift it up. What this does is it just kind of holds this in so it can't come loose, not that it would anyways but it's kind of a precautionary. Next, you're going to use one of these, okay? And the size is a 5/8. This is going to slide right over the line. Before that though, I'm going to use a little bit of penetrant, put this right on just like that, and then you just kind of press. Once you press, squeeze this in a little bit towards the fuel rail, give it a little twist, and then draw it away carefully. Go ahead and get your tool off of there and take care of your fuel-soaked rag. So there's our tool and there's the size, 5/8.

Let me grab some of these pliers, and I'm going to remove this clamp right here for the upper hose. There might still be a little bit of coolant in here, so be careful. Grab the hose. Just give it a little twist to break it free. Okay, if for some reason, it doesn't want to break free, you can grab your small pocket screwdriver or whatever you've got, maybe a pick. Come right in through here and maybe a teeny bit of penetrant. I'm just going to work this around, let the penetrant do its job. Like I said, I just used a teeny bit. You don't want to overdo it. This is rubber and it's probably not the best for it. There it is. Set this aside.

So the next thing we want to do is remove the bracket from this area. So you can start wherever you'd like. I'm going to come right down here and use a 10-millimeter. Loosen that up just like that. If you feel right underneath, you're going to notice that it has almost like a cutout where it's going to sit right over that bolt, so you don't technically need to pull these all the way out. These up here, you do want to pull out. Remove the alternator with the bracket.

The next thing I want to do is get this bracket off of here. It kind of comes up and over this. To do that though, you have to get this throttle position sensor out of the way. To remove that, there's going to be a little torque spit on the backside. It looks like this. It's a little star. And the size is a T-20. There's two bolts, there's one up top and one down bottom. Remove them. Okay, carefully slide this out without twisting it. If you take a peek in there, you're going to see a little slot. You don't have to worry about it being messed up because it's going to line up with the backside of that intake. Set those bolts and the sensor aside.

If you look right along here, you can see this wiring harness. It has a little piton that presses into the bracket. Remove it. There we are. There's going to be another one on the other side, but we'll worry about that later.

Let's move along to getting this bracket off of here. To do that, I'm going to remove this 15-millimeter bolt, and it's going to be about probably this long so just so you know. I'm going to use a ratchet ranch, because why not? And there's going to be another bolt on the back which is also a 15-millimeter. It feels nice and loose. Like I told you, super long. Let's get that back bolt. Where's that bolt? Okay. Get that out of there. So it kind of goes into the back of the engine and goes up against the bracket. Let's get the bracket out. You're going to have to do a little twist and shout. There it is. So, assuming this is the back of the engine, this comes through just like that and then it screws into the engine. You've got your other bolt that comes through just like this. Boom.

So, next, if you look along the backside of the intake, you're going to see another bracket. There's going to be two 10-millimeter headed bolts. Remove those. That bolt off of there and of course the bracket.

I'm feeling along this big wiring harness and I can feel that there's another anchor point, so you're just going to want to get that off of there. You can use a pry bar, whatever you've got, and just try to get it separated.

This is looking great. At this point, let's remove all eight coils. Make sure, when you lay them out, you lay them out so you can remember exactly which position they were in. So this one's obviously in the front. I'm going to put it first. Second, third, brrrp, right down the line. Give it a little twist. It should slide right up, and that's what they look like.

So now we're going to move along to taking off this EGR tube right here. To do that, use an inch and 1/16 wrench. I'm jut going to give it a couple loving bonks with my rubber mallet, see if I can get it to break free. Perfect. Let's loosen that right up. Do the same to the lower one.

So we made our way back underneath the vehicle. We're going to follow that left-hand exhaust and come right up here to where the EGR tube is, and you can feel this big old nut. That's the same size nut as the one up top so you don't have to worry about figuring out the size. It's an inch and 1/16. The only problem with this one is generally speaking it gets frozen on there really bad. So what I like to do is apply a little bit of heat, so I'm going to do that now.

Obviously being careful for anything that I could melt. You don't want that O2 sensor wire anywhere near there. I'm just going to move this heat around. I'm going to go up around the nut area, and then I'm also going to go down along here. Once you feel as though you have everything warmed up enough, continue with that wrench. I'm just going to hit this with some penetrant, and then I'll let it sit and do its job.

If you're going to be inside of an enclosed area, make sure it's well-ventilated.

Yeah, nice. All right, we got that to break free. Little bit of heat, that's the way to do it.

So this is still a little warm but I got it so it's turned by hand and I got it off of the exhaust pipe there.

So, now, I'm just going to grab that EGR tube and carefully pull it out of here. The next thing we're going to work on doing is getting this off the top of the intake. So, to do that, I'm going to leave the majority of these all attached obviously. An exception of this one right here that goes over to the fuel rail area. So, I'll just try to pull this boot off. There we are. And now you're going to see mounting screws or bolts here, here. And then of course on the backside, we'll remove all those.

If you take a peek right inside here, you can see just how dirty it is. I would like to clean it out so I will and I would recommend you do the same. Now, it's going to be time to get the fuel rails off of here. To do that, I'm going to remove the 8-millimeter bolts 1, 2, 3, and 4.

So now you can wiggle these around and all that's going to be holding it in is the fuel injectors. They have little rubber O rings, so you can just try to pop this up. Sometimes it's hard to do just by hand, in which case you would use something as simple as a pry bar.

So, next, it's going to be time to remove the fuel rail from the intake. Sometimes there's going to be fuel that's still in there even though you tried running the vehicle to try to make sure there's no fuel on there. So, just grab a couple rags and just kind of lay them out and hopefully they'll just collect whatever mess might come out of here. With that done, now I'm going to use something as simple as a pry bar and I'm just going to try to go and lift up the fuel rail. There we go. Okay, got a little bit of fuel coming out. That's okay. We've got our rags. It's bound to happen. Awesome. Okay. Now that we have both these off, let's go ahead and lift this up and get it out of here.

So, now that we have that fuel rail off of here, it's important to make sure you get these little rubber gaskets out of here and it's just as important to make sure that you replace these. If you have any of these that are still stuck in the fuel injectors, it's also important to make sure you get those out and you put them with the coinciding part on the engine.

I'm just going to use my small pocket screwdriver, just try to pry this out of here. There we are. And there's one of the gaskets and then the other one's right here. We'll replace them both.

At this point, I'm going to use some long-nose pliers, and I'm going to pull these out of here. Screw right along that belt cover and then lift straight up. When you take these out, make sure you put them in an order you can remember, so I'm going to go with the front being all the way over there and then I'm going to work my way this way.

We're cruising right along. Let's go ahead and get this thermostat housing off of here with the cover.

Okay. That one was really in there. I always replace these anyway whenever I do an intake.

Let's get the coolant temp sensor out of here. Use your 19. There we go. You'll notice that, when it was tightened in, it wasn't completely down so pay special attention to that. When you tighten this up onto the new intake, you definitely don't want to tighten it completely down.

So now we're going to use a 10-millimeter and we're just going to come down the line. Whenever you're removing these, it's always a great idea to start at one end and work your way to the far end. Don't start in the center. Nothing going on up here because we already removed those.

Let's take a peek, making sure that they're all the same length. Nothing special about them. Grab your rubber mallet. Okay. So, at this point, everything's nice and free. But when we lift this up, we want to make sure that nothing can fall down inside this engine underneath here because right where these tubes connect onto, that leads right down into the engine. Okay, everything is clear. There's nothing that can fall down that I can see in front of me at least.

Okay, so now before we go any further, it's important to make sure you grab some rags or whatever you might happen to have and just kind fo put them right down inside these holes right here, okay? You don't have to shove them all the way down. You want to leave them so you can still grab them out of there of course, but what we're trying to do is just make sure that nothing can fall down inside these and potentially cause damage to the engine.

I'm going to grab this gasket. Lift it up and out of here. Take a look at that. Boy, that's no good right there. I'm sure this had a coolant leak. Nice.

The next thing I want to do is clean up this whole upper area here and obviously there are some large areas that I'm going to want to clean up before I get to scraping. So I'll just use my vacuum. I'll clean it up as good as possible along here. We'll scrape it and clean it up again. Do the same over there and then of course we'll worry about cleaning this out when we're done.

I'm trying to scrape out and away from any of these holes.

So now once you feel as though you've cleaned this down enough on all the mating surfaces where those intake gaskets are going to ride, which is pretty much just right around all these little holes, you obviously want to make sure that it has a nice seal. Just kind of feel along with your finger, and just feel if you feel any raised areas. If you do, just make sure you clean those off. If you don't and this seems as good as this one is, I would just vacuum this off, try to get off any existing crud that's on there, and then we'll move along to the other side. But it is very important that you don't skimp and, if you think that maybe there's an issue that could be right here, take care of it now. Last thing you want to do is get this thing all back together and then run it and realize you have an issue because you didn't clean this up like I asked you to.

Okay, so this looks pretty great. You might notice a little bit of discoloration in certain areas but, as long as you don't feel any raised areas or pitted areas, you're doing all right.

So now that we cleaned down all the mating surfaces along the engine, let's go ahead and do one last touch-up with the vacuum. It's important to make sure you vacuum out the spark plug holes in case any crud fell inside there. Just get anything out you can.

So now that we cleaned down all the mating surfaces along the engine, let's go ahead and do one last touch-up with the vacuum.

Any time you're going to be leaving your engine open for a while, it's always a great idea to make sure you cover it.

So we made our way over to the bench. I want to take a quick peek at this intake so we can see what's going on. If you look along the forward end, this is where the thermostat is going to go. You might notice that you have an extra hole. You've got this one right here. This is where the sensor is going to go for the coolant temperature sensor. But this one right here, that one's actually just kind of like where you're going to have a little air-breather. So you take one of these and then you would just put it in. But of course, before you put it in, you need some sort of seal, so I like to use this stuff right here. It's just white Teflon tape. You can also use the goo if you prefer that. I'm going to wait on installing that until we've got this all into the vehicle though. It also comes with new mounting bolts for your coils. You're going to want to use these and not the original ones because the original ones won't work in this particular intake. If you look where the coils are going to mount on to, it's just plastic. It's not like the original ones where they had the metal grommet in there. So, you need to have the super course bolts here. And of course when you're putting them in, make sure you torque them down so they'll be nice and torqued but they won't be overtightened and break the plastic.

Real quick before we blast off back to the vehicle. I just want to show you the underneath of the original. You're going to see that you have this insulator right here, and unfortunately this one is just disintegrating and we don't have one that's available to us at this time so we're going to install the new intake without it. But if you do have access to one, go ahead and slide that on before you start the install.

One of the coolest things about our new intakes is that they come with the gaskets preinstalled right inside there. They don't come with this big old clunky thing that you got to try to wind up perfectly. Let's go ahead and carefully pull these rags out of here. Just watch for any debris that might come out. This one obviously had some crud. We'll clean that off. I'm just going to take the vacuum. Get this crud off of here and we'll continue.

Before we go ahead and put the intake on, just double-check the gaskets and make sure nothing came loose. I'm just going to carefully put this on top.

Get these bolts in here. I'm just going to start them all in by hand before I tighten any of them down.

All right. So we made our way back over to the bench. We have our fuel rail right along here, and these are the fuel injectors that went along this bank, and these are the fuel injectors that went along this bank. I tried to keep them as even as possible so I knew exactly where they go. Now that we've said that, what we're going to do is we're going to move along to stripping down these injectors. We want to replace those O rings, okay? Super important. There should be one up on top. This one's missing. I already took it off. Got another one down here. Let's go ahead and pick it off. Now, if you take a peek, you might notice it's pretty dirty. And these little holes right down inside there, that's where the fuel comes squiring out of, okay? So you want to make sure that those are nice and clean. I'm just going to take a rag, put a little bit of cleaner on it, and try to wipe that down. Nasty. I'll go right along those little holes, find a clean spot in my rag, of course. Those look pretty great. Let's see if we can get around where those seals go.

Once that looks good, move along to the next. We'll do the same to all. So now I'm just going to take a little bit of this cleaner. It'll go right on here and that's going to act as a lubricant. You can slide these right on here. Use your little pocket screwdriver. It should go on hopefully. Okay, I'm going to do the other side. Same thing. Slide it right on there. Do the same to all eight.

Now that I've put gaskets on all my fuel injectors, it's time to install them into the rail. It's important to remember that the rail is actually upside down right now. So when you put these on, don't go putting your connector facing in this direction. That's going to face right at the engine. It's going to go in this direction. I'm going to use a little bit of this cleaner as a lubricant and then I'm just going to slide it right in. Easy peasy. Do them all the same way.

Perfect. Let's get it over to the vehicle. Let's get this fuel rail. I'm just going to set it right over where it's going to go and I'm going to check that other side right there. Okay, that looks pretty decent. So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to stay along this side and I'm going to press these in, continuing with this crud cleaner. Just a teeny little spritz. It should help these press right in.

Perfect. I'm going to go over to the other side.

The bolt for the fuel rail is the one with the little stud.

Grab my regular ratchet.

Okay, it's nice and snug. We're going to do the same to all four corners.

All right, that's the last one. Let's move along.

So now we're going to torque these. We're going to go just like this. You've got one right there. You're going to have number 2 directly across. We're going to go number 3. That's number 4, 5, 6 all the way back in the back right there, 7 all the way in the back, number 8 right here and then we're going to finish this with this one. Torque these to 18-foot pounds.

And then the last one's going to be number 9, which is located right here but we're going to do that after the bracket.

Put my next long bolt. And then I'm going to start in that bottom one on the backside of the engine as well. If you look at this bolt, you're going to see it has the flat side and then the nut side. You want the flat side pressing that bracket right up against the engine. Torque this to 18-foot pounds as well. Make sure you get this completely tightened up all the way against the engine. That feels nice and tight. Awesome.

At this point, we've torqued down the entire rearward portion of the intake, and we also have this right here, which is where we're going to move along to next. I'm just going to put on the thermostat with the housing and everything. And then when I tighten these up, that'll pretty much finish up tightening up the intake onto the engine.

Put that thermostat. I'm going to take that nice gasket that they gave us. Put it right on here like that. And then I've got my housing. Make sure that this is nice and clean. This looks pretty decent. Just put it right up on top of here just like that. Grab your bolts. Slide those down through.

Torque these to 18-foot pounds as well. Double-check that gasket. Make sure it's on there well. Looks good.

It's time to get the throttle body on here. Pay special attention to this area right here, right where the gasket is going to ride. Make sure it's as clean as possible. Take your five bolts. Get ready for an install. Start all of your bolts in before you tighten any of them down. We're just going to bottom these out nice and lightly, and then we'll torque them to 89-inch pounds.

Torqued.

I'm wrapping this sensor in a little bit of Teflon tape, and then I'm going to put it in here. Something that's important to remember on this sensor when you tighten it. When we removed it, it wasn't tightened all the way to the bottom so it was bottomed out. You just want to tighten it so it's snug. I'm just going to go by feel here. Once it feels it gets a little harder to turn in, that's where I'll stop. Okay, right there I kind of feel a lot of tension. This can go a teeny bit more when I bring this so it's right along that passenger side. That looks great. You'll notice it's not all the way down.

We're going to do the same to this little plug which is going to go right here, and this is kind of where you're going to be able to bleed out any air that might be inside the cooling system. You really don't need to go around very many times, just one, one and a half times. That's it. This one you should feel it get fairly tight. Right there. I have some tension on it. I'm just going to go a teeny bit more, and that's it.

Let's trap the alternator in here. I want to show you something. If you take this and you try to put it down, you're going to notice that the original bracket is going to hit up against this plenum. Obviously you don't want that to happen. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take out these two 10-millimeter headed bolts and then I'm going to figure out which one of these two brackets fits. I'm going to go with...it's probably this one.

Try the one that I was thinking it is. I'm just going to come around. Make sure that the bolt holes line up. That looks pretty decent. The only thing that I do notice is, if I hold it so it's flush with the alternator, it kind of lifts up a little bit.

So, inside your kit, you're also going to notice that it comes with a couple of these small spacers. We're going to go ahead and use those. Start these in here just like this. Got my spacer. We'll go right underneath. Let me start this bolt in.

Awesome. You're going to notice that the alternator is sitting all the way down on these bolts inside of those ears. The bolts that are coming out of the engine look like this. The alternator ears are going to sit right over it, and then we're going to tighten these up. Let's snug these up.

I'm just going to double-check these bottom ones because I just snugged them real quick. Nice and tight.

Tight. It's time to install that throttle position sensor. Just slide it right in there. It fits right in nice and tight. I'm going to start this one in. Now I'll put it in the lower one as well.

Now that both of those are started, we'll go ahead and snug them up. That one's nice and tight. I don't want to go too far. They're just very small torque spits. That's good. Oh, yeah.

Let's get this coil back in here. And then it came with brand new screws. It's important to use the screws that the intake came with. I'm going to use a 7-millimeter swivel socket. Get right in under here. And then I'm going to snug this up until it bottoms out. It feels like it's a little snug. Try to wiggle it around. If it feels like it still wiggles, give it just a teeny bit extra but that's it. The last thing you want to do is use the full pressure of this ratchet even though it's just a quarter inch. We're going to do the same down the line.

Now we're just going to do the same over on this side of the vehicle.

So now it's time to start connecting some of this electrical. We're just going to go right down the line. Add this one. Give it a little tug. The tan or grey, whatever you want to call it, goes into the fuel injectors. Give it a little tug. Move along to the coil. Same thing. Fuel injector. And then right on down the line.

Get this electrical. We've got the fuel. It's going to come right here. This is your lock. Press it right on there. Listen for a click. Give it a tug. You have to tug this after you click it in. That feels great. Lock it in.

Get this right here. And then this one. This is looking awesome.

Double-check what we've done. Okay, get this. It's going to go right on the backside here. Awesome. So, you've got this hose right here, the cooling hose. That goes over to the heater core. It's going to go down into the intake right here. There's a little rubber boot. I'm just going to get it off of there real quick. It's just a protective boot to make sure nothing gets inside there during shipping and whatnot. Something like this I like to keep around in my junk drawer but that's a story for another day.

Grab that clamp. Give it a little squeeze.

Slide that right down over that. Give it a tug. Beautiful.

Okay, so it's time to get the EGR tube on here. You've got the male end. That's going to go right up here into the EGR, and this is going to go all the way down along the backside of the engine to the exhaust.

So when you're putting this down along the backside of the engine, you just want to make sure you've got it on the underside of that steering shaft. You don't want it to be on the wrong side. I'm just going to start this in a few good threads so it can't strip them out or anything but it's also going to hold it from falling back out. And I'm not going to tighten it until I start in the other one as well. Okay. I got a bunch of good threads. Let's get underneath and hook up the other side.

Let's get this lower one on here. Make sure you give it a couple good turns to make sure it's threading on before you try to tighten it with a wrench. The last thing you want to do is cross-thread this. You can see how it's at an angle. You just have to wiggle your tube around until it lines up. That's going on very good. I can wiggle this around and you can see that it's not cross-threaded.

Okay, it's bottomed out. Let's give it a little bit more, and that's it.

So if you look up here and you see that your O2 sensor wire is just kind of flopping around, it should have a bracket right about here which obviously this one's broken and that'll hold it up and safe away from the exhaust heat. I'm just going to use one of these wire ties and just kind fo secure it real quick.

You want to make sure it's nice and tight, and then trim off any excess.

So here's the upper portion again. We're just going to make sure that that's nice and snug. Okay, so that just bottomed out right there. I'm not giving it very much pressure. Now I'm just going to give it a teeny bit more but I don't want to go very hard because obviously I don't want to tweak this intake. That's it right there.

Next thing we want to do is the bracket and our kit came with two new bolts. You've got one hole here and one hole right there. We're going to line this up just like this so it's facing that direction.

Carefully start in those bolts.

And they're just threaded into the plastic, so it's important to make sure that, once you put these in, you don't have to necessarily take them back out a bunch of times. That would be great. Okay, both those are started. I'm going to use my ratchet to turn them in.

Both those are snug. The bracket's tight. Don't forget this little ground wire right around these hoses and then right up onto this top stud. Get this hose right here. Slide right up on there.

Get this. We've got a little anchor. Make sure that wire comes up along this side and right over to the top there. Okay, just bottomed out right there. It's going to go a teeny bit more and that's it. You don't want to go very hard. This is very breakable. Make sure you cover this. It's super important.

We've got this wire and go right up in here to the alternator. And then, of course, you've got the anchor point. Slide it on there. And now let's move along this slide right here and start plugging it in. So now it's time to get these connected in. It's important to remember that the black ones go for the coil and these little tan, grey, whatever you want to call them, go for the fuel injectors.

This one. It's a little bigger. It comes right up here. And then don't forget that red lock. Slide it in. Push in that red lock, give it a tug. Get this one right here. Another red lock. It goes on the throttle position sensor and you push that lock. Perfect.

Time to get the hose on here. I like to replace the original spring clamps. They get weak over time.

Make sure it's nice and tight. Give it a little tug and a twist. That feels great.

We've got our air intake tube here. Make sure that this is nice and clean inside. You can tell where it lines up. It's got little hookies that go over that nub. Let's snug this up.

Don't forget this one right here. Click it in. Give it a tug.

It's time to install the serpentine belt. First, you want to take a peek at it. Give it a little roll like this. If you see a whole bunch of cracks going across these, you know it's no good. Also if you look at the backing and you can see that you see some of the lining on the inside coming through, that would also mean it's no good. This one looks decent so I'm going to reuse it. The way I'm going to start is I'm going to go over the crank on the bottom just like that. I'm going to bring the top part up and around this water pump over the tensioner and then down around the AC compressor. I'm going to come all the way up to this idler pulley and sit it right on there.

At this point, I'm going to work my way on the other side. I'm going to do that power steering pump, and then I'm going to hold up on my slack like this. Take a peek at everything. Just make sure you're sitting on all the grooves. You're not coming over and off the top or anything anywhere. It feels like it moved on the crank which is very probable. I'm just going to give it a couple of spins. That looks good now. I'm going to grab my tool for the tensioner. I'm just using my ratchet. Slide it right up and over and on to those grooves. Okay, just give this a couple of little bonks like this. Gets everything settled in nice.

Let's make sure we close up this petcock. It's only plastic so just give it a teeny bit. I'm going to get this little drain hose back off of here. And if there's any mess, of course, you just clean it up.

So now's going to be time to fill this cooling system. The way I look to do it is with something like this. And basically what this contraption does is it applies vacuum to your cooling system. I'm going to power up the hose. It's going to rush a whole bunch of air by through this hose. And then once it builds up the pressure into this green zone and it just kind of hangs out for a while and doesn't seem to build up any more pressure, I'm going to turn off the air, close this off, and I'm going to make sure that it doesn't drop. If for some reason this meter drops quite a bit, goes into the yellow, or even worse would be red and just continues to drop, we know we have a leak and that would, of course, be very bad because we'll have to find it.

So, with that said, let's get started on that. I'm going to grab my coolant and it's a great idea to use manufacturer's specified fluid. We went with the concentrate but, of course, it has to be mixed 50/50. So what I did is I grabbed a separate container, I mixed it, I took out half, I put half in this one and then I filled up the rest with water. So it's 50/50 mix at that point. If yours says concentrate, you need to mix it yourself. If it already says 50/50 mix, don't add any water.

I've got this on here. I've got my safety glasses and my hand protection of course. I'm going to turn on the air. This valve is open. This one's closed. So what it's doing right now is it's creating a vacuum inside the system. You can see this upper hose crumping down. So right now I'm going to watch this gauge right here, and I'm just going to make sure it gets up and above that 25 as I said before. And once it stops going down and it just kind of hangs out, that's where I'm going to stop it. As you can tell, it hasn't moved in quite a while. So I'm going to hold this down. I'm going to turn this just like that, and then I'm going to turn off that air. Get this right out of here. At this point, I'm going to continue watching this needle and I'm going to give it about 15, 20 minutes to make sure nothing happens. I want to make sure that this thing holds pressure.

Okay, we took a little break. We came back and the needle really hasn't moved much at all if anything. So now I'm just going to fill it up, get my little tube here. All right. I'll open this up and it's going to start drawing coolant out of here. If you're using this tool, it's important to make sure that the area that you're taking the fluid from doesn't run empty because then, of course, you're going to suck air into the system and you're going to have air...you're going to go air bound.

Okay. So we're at zero negative pressure, which means that we don't have any more vacuum in the system so I'm just going to close this off. Carefully lift this up. We've got our coolant filled up. So now I' going to use one of these little funnel buddies, and that's just going to help make sure that nothing overflows and makes a big mess. So I've got my adaptor. Right on there. And this right here.

Let's get the cover on. You've got these little things up here and then you've got the little hooks that they're going to slide over. Just reach down and line them up. Make sure that one's in. Feels good. This should want to go up and over that stud. I'm going to take my little nut. Put it up on here.

Come back here to the fuel shutoff. Make sure it's reset. Put this back up.

Let's grab that negative battery terminal. Carefully put it on here. Make sure you tighten it up.

So now it's going to be time to try starting the vehicle. When we do that, we want to pay special attention to up here and make sure nothing funny happens. If you see any check engine light, which should be located right up here, we know we're going to turn it right off and check to see what's going on.

I'm going to turn the key to the on position and wait a second. This is going to prime that fuel system. I'm going to turn it back off and do it one more time. And then here we go. It's going to run a little rough at first, and then it'll smoothen out. I'm looking up here. I see nothing, an exception of just it telling me that I'm not buckled up.

We're going to look right over on the right side of the gauge cluster here right where the temperature is. And you want to pay special attention to this. Make sure it doesn't go rising all the way up and get into that hotline. If it's coming up here, make sure you turn it off. You might have a little bit of air in your system.

Okay. Now that the fluid is at the full line, we'll just cap it up and you should be good to go. Take it for a road test.

2002 - 2002  Ford  Explorer
1999 - 2004  Ford  Mustang
2002 - 2002  Mercury  Mountaineer
2001 - 2008  Mercury  Grand Marquis
2001 - 2008  Lincoln  Town Car
2001 - 2005  Ford  Crown Victoria
2001 - 2008  Ford  Crown Victoria
2006 - 2011  Mercury  Grand Marquis
2007 - 2011  Lincoln  Town Car
2006 - 2011  Ford  Crown Victoria

99-10 Ford Lincoln Mercury 4.6L Intake Manifold

Ford Lincoln Mercury Intake Manifold DIY Solutions ENG00287

This part replaces:

  • Dorman 615-175
  • Hollander 329-01780
  • OE # 3W7Z9424AD
  • OE # 3W7Z9424AA
  • OE # 1W7Z9424AB
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