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How to Replace Inner Tie Rod Boots 05-10 Chrysler 300

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How to Replace Inner Tie Rod Boots 05-10 Chrysler 300

Created on: 2021-01-16

How to replace a worn, torn, or rotted inner tie rod boot on 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10 Chrysler 300.

  1. step 1 :Removing the Wheel
    • Loosen the lug nuts
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step 2 :Removing the Outer Tie Rod
    • Soak the tie rod jam nut and the other tie rod nut in rust penetrant
    • Loosen the jam nut with a 24mm wrench
    • Remove the 21mm nut from the outer tie rod
    • Strike the wheel spindle with a hammer to release the outer tie rod
    • Pull the tie rod down out of the wheel spindle
    • Twist off the tie rod, counting how many turns it takes to remove
    • Hold the inner tie rod with locking pliers
    • Mark the jam nut position with a marker
    • Twist off the jam nut with a 24mm wrench, counting how many turns it takes to remove
  3. step 3 :Removing the Inner Tie Rod Boot
    • Remove the two tie rod boot clamps with side cutters
    • Pull the boot off the inner tie rod
  4. step 4 :Installing the Inner Tie Rod Boot
    • Put the boot clamp on the steering rack side of the inner tie rod
    • Slide the boot onto the tie rod
    • Tighten the boot clamp
    • Pinch the wheel side boot clamp together with pliers
    • Slide the clamp onto the boot
    • Tighten the boot clamp
  5. step 5 :Installing the Outer Tie Rod
    • Mark the new jam nut
    • Twist on the new jam nut the same number of turns it took to remove the old one
    • Twist on the outer tie rod the same number of turns it took to remove the old one
    • Insert the outer tie rod stud into the wheel spindle
    • Fasten the 22mm nut onto the outer tie rod
    • Tighten the 22mm nut to 63 foot-pounds of torque
    • Tighten the new jam nut with a 22mm wrench
    • Grease the tie rod fitting until the boot swells
  6. step 6 :Installing the Wheel
    • Lift the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds

Tools needed for replacement

  • General Tools

    Hammer

    Jack Stands

    Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

    Rust Penetrant

    Safety Glasses

    Gloves

    Marker / Writing Utensil

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

    Wire End Cutters

    Side Cutters

    Slip-Joint Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions

    Torque Wrench

    Ratchet

    1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

    Complete Metric Socket Set

  • Wrenches - Metric

    21mm wrench

    24mm Wrench

    20mm Wrench

    22mm Wrench

Installation Video
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the vehicle's steering rack or inner tire rod boot. This is the billow that keeps dust and debris from getting into the grease on your tire rod, as well as the grease on the outer portion of your steering rack. If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We are using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stand. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.

Using the 24 millimeter wrench – and we've soaked both our jam nut and the nut on the end of the tie rod in penetrating oil – break the jam nut loose. We don't want to move it too far, just enough that it's off the end of the tie rod.

Using the 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, crack the nut on the end of your tie rod loose. Once you get it loose enough you may be able to finish removing it with a socket and ratchet. Now if you are removing and replacing the outer tie rod, you can use a pickle fork here, which sits between the spindle and the ball joint and knocks it out as you tap the fork in. However, that damages the boot rendering the old outer tie rod useless. So, in the interest in saving parts, we're going to use a hammer and hit the side of the spindle with a taper of the ball joint end goes through and release it. Remove your tie rod and count the number of turns it takes to remove it. It was just about 21 turns. We'll want to make sure that we install the new tie rod end that same number of rotations.

Now you'll notice that there's a hex cut on the end of your inner tie rod here, which is actually designed for a wrench to hold it. However, most open end wrenches are fairly weak and with a really stuck nut like we have on the end of our inner tie rod here, it's going to be a lot safer and easier to grab it with a pair of vice grips and spin this off with a 24 millimeter. We'll mark this flat with a paint marker. You could also mark it with a sharp chisel or punch, really anything that's just going to give you an indication of when it reaches the 12:00 position again. Five. Be sure to keep the tie rod itself steady, because this does pivot and can change the number of counts you have on that 12:00 position. Twenty-five, 26, 27, 28. It's about 28.

Using a pair of side cutters remove the clamp from the end of the tire rod boot. Now, you could also do this with a pair of pliers, but we're going to need the side cutters in the next step and I like to use the minimum amount of tools possible. Cut the old clamp off the inner edge of the boot. Sometimes you’ve got to work these ones a little bit to get them to break. Remove the boot from the rack.

We're going to use a new boot clamp on the end of our boot. However, if you don't have one of these, that's okay. You can get away with using a hose clamp for it. Set the teeth in and engage. Slide it all back in. Slide that on.

If you don't have a pair of cutters like this, which is what I use for the crimp tool, you can also get away with using an electrical crimper or a regular pair of side cutters. Just make sure you get on both sides of that fold and pinch it in. Get that as tight as you can without actually cutting into it. Make sure it stays secure.

Since we showed you the side cutter method of removing this clamp, we'll show you the other method, which is using a regular pair of pliers or lineman's pliers, pinching all three tabs together. You'll feel where this locks on to the end of the bevel. Slide that clamp on there and just let it go.

We're going to be replacing our old lock nut so we'll take our new one and just put a mark on one of the flats so we can count the same number of turns back on. Ours was just over 28. It's not going to matter if you're using the new one or the old one. We'll set that to about the 10:00 position, which is where mine came off. We'll count one, two, three, all the way up to 28.Now what we'll do is it was about 21 turns to get our tie rod on and again mine came off right around 9:00 or 10:00. We'll go ahead and get that going again and count 21 turns back on. Line up the stud on the end of your new tie rod end and insert it into your spindle.

Install your new nut. The new one is a 22 millimeter so we'll tighten that on with a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the outer tie rod nut to 63 foot-pounds. Your new jam nut is 22 millimeter if you installed one, otherwise you'll use a 24 millimeter wrench and tighten it back down all the way against the tie rod end. Don't forget to grease the fitting until your boot swells, but does not break.

Reinstall your wheel and tire and get your 21 millimeter lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Hammer
  • Jack Stands
  • Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Safety Glasses
  • Gloves
  • Marker / Writing Utensil

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Wire End Cutters
  • Side Cutters
  • Slip-Joint Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • Complete Metric Socket Set

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 21mm wrench
  • 24mm Wrench
  • 20mm Wrench
  • 22mm Wrench


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