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How to Replace Front Wheel Bearings 2006 Chrysler 300

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (1:09)
    • Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Brake Pads (1:21)
    • Hold the wheel studs with a brake rotor
    • Remove the two 13mm bolts from the caliper bracket
    • Pull the caliper off
    • Put the caliper aside
    • Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
  3. step : Removing the Brake Rotor (1:46)
    • Remove the two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
    • Pull off the brake caliper bracket
    • Strike the drum surface of the rotor with a hammer to loosen the rotor
    • Pull the rotor off
    • Clean the hub surface with a wire brush
  4. step : Removing the Hub Assembly (2:12)
    • Tap between the hub and dust cover with a hammer and chisel
    • Remove the dust cover
    • Remove the 35mm center nut
    • Remove the wheel hub and bearing
  5. step : Installing the Hub Assembly (4:03)
    • Insert the wheel hub into the spindle
    • Install the 35mm nut
    • Torque the nut to 184 foot-pounds
    • Install the dust shield
  6. step : Preparing the New Brake Pads and Rotors (5:00)
    • Pry off the brake pad shims with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Clean the brake pad shims with a wire brush
    • Clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush
    • Apply brake grease to the shim-mounting area of the caliper bracket
    • Place the shim onto the caliper bracket
    • Apply grease to the caliper shims
    • Pull out the caliper slides
    • Apply grease to the caliper slides
    • Push the caliper slide into the caliper
  7. step : Installing the Brake Rotor (7:23)
    • Apply grease to the hub surface
    • Put the rotor onto the hub backwards
    • Spray the rear of the hub with brake cleaner
    • Pull off the brake rotor
    • Slide the brake rotor on
    • Spray the front of the rotor with brake cleaner
    • Put the caliper bracket into place
    • Insert the two 18mm bolts into the caliper bracket
    • Tighten the two 18mm bolts to 70 foot-pounds of torque
  8. step : Installing the Brake Pads (8:49)
    • Put the brake pads into the caliper bracket
    • Apply grease to the back of the brake pads
    • Push back the caliper piston with grove lock pliers
    • Put the brake caliper into place
    • Insert the two 13mm bolts into the caliper
    • Tighten the two 13mm bolts to 44 foot-pounds of torque
  9. step : Reattaching the Wheel (9:53)
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300, 3.5-liter rear wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front wheel hub and bearing assembly.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you want these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, 35mm socket, breaker bar, torque wrench, small chisel, hammer, rubber mallet, groove jaw pliers, bungee cord, wire brush, flat blade screwdriver, brake grease, gloves, paper towels, jack and jack stands

Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with the jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.

Remove the two 13 millimeter bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. We'll do this using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper and, using a bungee cord, zip tie, or mechanics wire, hang it up out of the way. Remove the pads. Remove the two 18-millimeter caliper bracket bolts with an 18-millimeter socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper carrier and remove the rotor.

Using a small chisel and a small hammer, we'll tap in between the hub and discover once you get it moving just rotate it and work your way around until this dust cover. Once you've got it moving, just rotate it and work your way around until the dust cover comes off. Once you've got it moving, angle the chisel so it knocks it out. Using a 35 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and, depending on the length of your breaker bar, you may also want to use the cheater pipe. Remove the center nut. Once you've got it cracked loose, you can remove the cheater pipe and finish removing the nut from the spindle. Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the vehicle.

Here we have our old hub that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same wheel studs, the same open-style bearing in the middle there. We have the same backing on them and the same hub face. If a wheel bearing starts going bad, it will create a loud grinding or groaning sound while driving that will get louder and softer as you turn left and right, depending on which side of the vehicle the bad bearing is on. If these bearings get too bad and fail, it can cause a wheel to rotate improperly or stop completely. When you hear that noise, it's time to change it. This new wheel bearing from 1A Auto is a good quality replacement part that's going to go in direct fit just like your original and fix you up right.

Install your new wheel bearing and hub assembly onto the spindle. Be sure to get it on there nice and even and straight, and that it bottoms out completely. Install your 35 millimeter nut. We'll use the socket and breaker bar for this since it has a nylon lock on the end of the threads. It's not going to be something we can install by hand. We'll then torque the nut to a 184-foot pounds. Install the dust shield. It helps to use a rubber hammer or dead blow when installing these. If you don't have access to one, use a screwdriver and gently tap around the edges with a regular hammer.

Using a small flat blade screwdriver, tap off the brake slides. Now, this rust buildup on the end isn't a big deal. However, if it were down on the actual moving portion of the pin, we would want to replace them. You'll also need to make sure that the boot seats back on the pin correctly. We'll repeat this process on the other side of our bracket. Now that our caliper bracket is cleaned and greased, it's ready to go back on the vehicle.

Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the hub surface. Be sure to get the flat surface as well as the bore. This will prevent our rotor from getting frozen onto the hub. Install the rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray it down with some brake cleaner. This removes the coating they used to prevent the surfaces from rusting while these parts are in storage. We'll flip it around and spray that down too.

Now, this next step isn't entirely necessary, but if you have access to an old axle nut or some other type of large spacer. You can put it over the wheel stud and tighten the lug nut down to it to keep the rotor straight while we install the rest of our components. Reinstall the caliper bracket and the two 18mm bolts which we'll tighten down with our 18mm socket and ratchet, and then tighten to 70 foot-pounds.

Install your new brake pads in the caliper carrier, and grease the backsides of the shims with a thin coat of brake grease. Remove the caliper from whatever you used to secure it. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly compress the caliper piston. Reinstall the caliper and the two 13mm bolts securing the caliper to the guide pins. Using your 13mm socket and a torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to 44 foot-pounds.

Remove the wheel lug as well as the axle nut, if you used this method, and reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your 21 mm lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Chisel
  • Hammer
  • Wire Brush
  • Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Paper Towels
  • Anti-Seize Grease
  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Gloves
  • Bungee Cord

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Channel-Lock Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 35mm Socket
  • Complete Metric Socket Set

2005 - 2008  Dodge  Magnum
2005 - 2011  Chrysler  300
2008 - 2011  Dodge  Challenger
2006 - 2011  Dodge  Charger
2012 - 2014  Chrysler  300
2012 - 2014  Dodge  Charger
2012 - 2014  Dodge  Challenger
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