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How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 88-02 Toyota Corolla

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:22)
    • Raise the vehicle with minimal weight on the wheel
    • Loosen the 21 mm lug nuts
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Remove the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Knuckle (2:21)
    • Remove the tie rod cotter pin
    • Remove the 19 mm tie rod castle nut
    • Hammer on the side of the knuckle to loosen the tie rod
    • Remove the tie rod from the knuckle
    • Remove the two 17 mm caliper bracket bolts
    • Remove the brake caliper assembly and hang it to the side
    • Remove the brake rotor
    • Remove the axle nut cotter pin
    • Remove the axle nut lock ring
    • Remove the 30 mm axle nut using a long pry bar between the wheel studs to brace the wheel from turning
    • Mark the top strut mount bolt and strut to be able to return the bolt to the same orientation later
    • Remove the 18 mm nut from the 15 mm top lower strut mount bolt
    • Remove the 19 mm nut from the 19 mm bottom lower strut mount bolt
    • Remove the top bolt and leave the bottom bolt to support the knuckle
    • Remove the two 17 mm ball joint mounting nuts
    • Remove the 17 mm ball joint mounting bolt
    • Remove the strut bolt
    • Pull the knuckle downward while supporting the axle so that it does pull out with the knuckle
    • Remove the knuckle
  3. step : Removing the Hub and Bearing (14:06)
    • Pry up to remove the outside inner bearing seal
    • Pry out the inside inner bearing seal
    • Remove the bearing snap ring
    • Press the wheel hub out of the bearing from the inside of the knuckle, making sure to apply pressure only to the hub
    • Press the bearing out from the front of the knuckle making, sure to apply pressure to the outer race of the bearing
  4. step : Installing the Hub and Bearing (26:28)
    • Press the new bearing into the knuckle from the inside of the knuckle, making sure to apply pressure only to the outer race of the bearing
    • Press until you can feel the bearing stop
    • Install the snap ring into the groove in the knuckle
    • Set the knuckle on the base of the press so that only the inner race of the bearing is in contact
    • Align the hub with the center of the bearing and press it in
    • Apply RTV sealer to the inner inside bearing seal and tap it in
    • Replace the outer inside seal
  5. step : Installing the Knuckle (36:38)
    • Apply anti-seize grease to the axle splines
    • Install the Knuckle by seating the ball joint mounting studs into the lower control arm and then inserting the axle into the hub, and then aligning the knuckle into the lower strut mount
    • Install the 19 mm lower strut mount bolt
    • Install the 17 mm ball joint mount nuts
    • Install the 17 mm ball joint mount bolt
    • Torque the 17 mm ball joint mount bolt and the two 16 mm nuts to 106 ft-lb
    • Install the top 15 mm strut mount bolt aligned with the markings
    • Torque the bottom strut mount bolt to 203 ft-lb
    • Torque the top 15 mm strut mount bolt to 203 ft-lb
    • Install the brake caliper assembly
    • Install the 17 mm brake caliper bracket bolts
    • Apply thread locker to the axle
    • Install the 30 mm axle nut
    • Install the tie rod into the knuckle
    • Install the 19 mm tie rod castle nut and torque it to 36 ft-lb
    • Tighten the castle nut further if necessary to align it with the cotter pin hole
    • Install a cotter pin and peen it over
    • Torque the 30 mm axle nut to 159 ft-lb
    • Install the axle nut lock ring, and a cotter pin, and peen the cotter pin over
  6. step : Installing the Wheel (47:42)
    • Install the wheel onto the wheel studs
    • Install the 21 mm lug nuts and tighten them by hand
    • Lower the vehicle with minimal weight on the wheel
    • Torque the 21 mm lug nuts to 76 ft-lb in a crossing pattern

Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 1995 Toyota Corolla. I'm going to show you how to do a front wheel bearing. It's going to be a fairly simple job. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Okay, so one of the first things we're going to do is we're going to raise and support the vehicle a little bit, so the majority of the weight is off of the tire. We do want the tire to just barely be touching the ground, so it can't spin. What I'm going to do is I'm going to loosen up the lug nuts. This vehicle has after-market wheels and lug nuts, so it's going to be different sizes for you, but you should have a 21 millimeter socket, long breaker bar, and all you're going to do is just break them free. You're not going to loosen them right up or take them right out, you don't want to mess up your lug studs or anything, or your wheels. Now that we have them all broken free, we'll safely raise the vehicle, we'll make sure that it's safely supported and secure, and then we're going to remove these lug nuts and the wheel.

Okay, so we're going to be doing the wheel bearing on this. I like to do both sides. But anyway, I just wanted to let you listen to what's going on with this wheel bearing so you know what's going on. I'm going to give it a little spin, and we'll see if you can hear it. You hear the growl? Not necessarily the shush from the brakes, I mean, that is what it is, but the actual growl, like gr.

That's even worse with pressure of the vehicle, or the weight of the vehicle causing pressure, putting weight and pressure on the bearing. So that makes a lot of noise when you're driving down the road, probably sounds like... Just, you know, driving. Let's get busy.

All right, so I'm just going to go ahead and take off these lug nuts. I'm going to take out the first two. The third one that I'm going to remove, I'm going to leave in a few threads, and then I'll fully remove the last one. I'll show you the reason why when we get to that point.

Now I can put down my tool. Hold my wheel, of course, so I'm safe. I'm going to lower it down safely, and I'll set this aside. Now we've got a clear view of what we're doing here. Okay, so I've just got a little bit of penetrant spray. You can use whatever flavor you like. I say flavor, but don't eat it or drink it, please. I'm spraying the upper adjustment bolt areas up here. This is just where your knuckle gets mounted to the strut. I'm going to spray the outer tie rod end nut, so that'll come off nice and easy, hopefully. Spray above the tie rod. Right in there. Okay. I'm going to go ahead and spray the front right here, get some nice penetrant in there. And spray the rotor here, because we're going to have to take that off, so if this comes off easy, that would be wonderful.

There we are. Cool. I'll just spray this, but not for this video necessarily, but it's just good habit to make sure that your bleeder screws come free, just in case some day you ever have to do your brakes.

So, we did the lower ball joint nut, we did the outer tie rod end nut, we did both these nuts, did all along here. I didn't have to do anything with the caliper bracket because I can't spray those. Sprayed right here, I sprayed the rotor area where it's going to hopefully seep in, in between the rotor and the wheel bearing. We'll let that do its thing for a second, and we'll move along.

Okay, so we've got our cotter pin that holds our outer tie rod end nut on. If you have a new one, you can just tear this out of here. If you don't, and you're going to be reusing it, you want to of course try to get it out without ruining it. We have new cotter pins here, so for me personally, I'm not too worried about it, but that's pretty much what it looks like. Picture it looking a little nicer, though.

Anyway. Now we're going to remove this nut right here. Let's just see what size it is. 19. This is a castle nut, or a slotted nut. The tie rod has a little hole, that's where the cotter pin went through. The nuts have all these slots. So when you tighten it up and you torque it, you're going to want to bring it a little bit more, or whatever to make it line up with the hole. You never want to loosen it a little bit to get it lined up. You just want to give it a little more if you have. We'll explain that later.

Now I'm going to take my hammer, I'm give this a little bonk right here. Okay. I'm going to try to break this free. I'm not going to try to hit the tie rod. I'm not replacing the tie rod here. I don't want to hit the stud. That's going to cause an issue. I just want to hit the knuckle. Safety glasses. Hand protection. There it is. Check the threads. It looks like it's in good condition. I would say it's reusable.

Now we can do this. This is going to help us out a lot in the long run. Now we're going to use our 17 millimeter. We're going to take out this bolt right here. It's a caliper bracket to knuckle bolt. There's one located higher up, right up here. Use what you've got, but it's a 17 millimeter. If you've got an air gun, good for you. If you're dealing with a long ratchet, well, good for you too. If you have a shorter ratchet with a wobble extension and it breaks, well, not so good.

There we are. Excuse me. Okay. Now you're going to want something like this. You can make it out of a coat hanger or whatever you want to do, but essentially you just want to hang your caliper off of your strut, so it's not hanging from the break hose. Okay. So whatever you got to do to make it so you're not putting any unwanted pressure on your break hose. We'll remove the roter. Maybe you had to give it a couple of bonks. This one came free pretty easily so that's nice.

Now we have a peek inside here. We can see where the bearing is going to be. It's located right inside this knuckle right here, it's a press hem. This is the backing plate. It's got a whole bunch of peened metal. I'm not too worried about that right now. Let's move along. We're going to remove this cotter pin. Just use your cutters or whatever you want to use. I like to use cutters because they seem to grip. Cotter pin. If you don't have a new one you can reuse this one, if yours looks fairly decent. Generally speaking, it's always a good habit to replace them though if you have access to them.

This right here, just a little locking cover. I just want to grab and show you what this looks like here. The tire rod has a slotted nut, right? We showed you that. The axle nut doesn't have slots. It has this little, it's like a castle. I can't think of what you'd want to call it, but whatever. A little clip essentially, goes over this, locks in to where the corners are on the nut, locks in to these, and then you line up the hole and that makes it so the cotter pin can go through and lock that nut in so it can't come loose on you. So call it what you want. Little doohickey, thingamajig. But keep it, because you're going to need it.

Next we're going to remove the axle nut. It's a 30 millimeter. Okay. To do this I'm going to lower the vehicle back down lower and I'll show you what to do next. So here we are. We brought it down closer to the ground. I got myself a nice long pry bar. I'm just going to go like this between the studs of the vehicle. I'm going to make sure that the bar is sitting flat with the stud. It's not sitting up like a diamond with a point pointing in to this. I don't want to damage the threads. The reason for this though, is so now when I use my 30 millimeter socket and my long handle ratchet I can try to loosen this to the left, counter-clockwise, and I don't have to worry about this spinning. If you don't have this on there, what's it going to do when you try to turn it? It's going to spin.

There we are. It's tight. Cool. So we'll take this nut all the way out. Excellent. There's no washer behind there. It's always good to pay attention in case there's a washer. You don't want to lose it. So we'll set this aside. That pushed in nice and easy. If yours doesn't, there's a center punch hole here. You'd want to use a punch of some sort, air chisel, hammer, whatever you've got. Make sure you're going from the center. You don't want to hit those threads, okay.

Now we'll get this out of here, we'll bring it back up, and we'll get to work. Now is the time to take off the bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut. When this comes down, it's going to come this way obviously, so you want to make sure that it doesn't hurt your face. It could also put a little tug on your axle, so you have to make sure that you already have this pushed through. If it's stuck in there and you let this down, you could separate your axle right inside here, in the CV joint area or even in there and that can be a real pain to put back together and you might have to get a new axle. Pay special attention to making sure that this axle is pushed through there.

I'm going to use a 15 here. I'm going to use an 18 on this side. Your vehicle may or may not be different. I'm just going to see if I can get this to break free here. It's already marked. I'm going to use a 19 here and a 19 on this side. See if I can get it to break free. It's definitely tight. Get this nut off of here. Set that aside. Okay. That's your lower bolt. As you can tell, it's thick. Set that aside. Put it with the nut. Those come through from front to back. This one is the adjustment. Let's see if we can get it out of here. There it is. Okay. So here's the adjustment. As you can tell, it's got like a little bump there. Okay. So that's when you turn this, it pushes that bump, which in turn pushes this knuckle in and out. Okay. Let's set this aside.

I'm going to take my lower bolt, I'm just going to start it back through there just so the knuckle can't move around too much on me when I do this. Under here there's a nut, a nut, and a bolt. We're going to remove those three. Okay. They should all be 17s. If yours is a different size, well, it is what it is. For me, I'm going to go ahead and remove, 17 millimeters. All right. This is the last one. We'll just take it out fully. I'm going to use my socket to get this out, so I don't get my fingers in to a pinch point. There it is. Set all of those aside. Okay.

So got all these out, right? Pretty much all that's holding this in at this point is just this bolt that we started back in. I'm going to go ahead and hit this with a little bit of penetrant spray. I'm going to hold my knuckle and remove this bolt. Okay. When I let this done, like I told you before, it might try pulling the axle with it. I don't want to pull the axle with it. I want the axle to stay pretty much where it is and the knuckle to come away from it. So if you notice that it's pulling the axle figure out what to do. Essentially just push the axle through. There we are. I'll lift this up. There's our bearing.

So here we go. We've got our knuckle on our workbench. This right here is a seal. Okay. It's got a little rubber seal along there. Generally speaking, it's good to replace these. What I'm going to do, along this seal there's a little bit of a lip, you have to try to grab on to that and you got to try to get under it and try to bonk it up. Okay. Once you get it lifting up a little bit, just stick another screwdriver, whatever you've got in there, pry bar, just try to twist, twist, twist, pop this out of the way. Hopefully it will be reusable unless you got a new one. If you got a new one, good for you. Here we go.

Got my safety glasses on of course. Okay. There's that. Okay. So I sprayed the area with some penetrant and that's going to hopefully help get this seal out. Anytime that you're taking out a seal like this, you're definitely going to want to replace it. Okay. So I'm going to see about getting a seal, but as for now I'm going to continue on with the service and the video. What I'm going to do at this point, try to turn it a little bit, I'm going to stick my pry bar underneath the seal and up against the knuckle right here. I'm going to try to bonk down on my pry bar while holding the knuckle so hopefully it won't move too much on me, and I'm going to try to lift this seal up and out of here. At that point the seal will be damaged, so you're going to want to replace it. You're also going to watch out for flying debris. Okay. The seal might come flying up. The pry bar might come up and wack you in the face. Wear your safety glasses of course. Hand protection. And let's give it a try. Give a little bonk.

Bonk. Here we are. So there's our seal. As you can tell, it's not reusable. That's the inside spring. We'll set this aside. Right in here is our bearing. We'll grab a rag, try to clean it off a little bit. There we are. So you've got your bearing right there and right here, let's see if I can find something to point, right along here there's a clamp. Okay. It comes around to right there. So you're going to want to grab some clamp pliers and you're going to want to squeeze that and lift this up and out. All right. I got some snap ring pliers. I got my safety glasses on of course. What I'm going to do, is I'm going to try to put these little ears in to those little ears, squeeze it, and hopefully get this up. You might need something like a magnet or a small screwdriver just to try to get it in there and peen it up.

So here we go. Safety glasses on. There we are. We'll set that aside, so we can find it later. So here we are. We're over at our press. We've got this set up. I happen to have a roter sitting around. But essentially what you want to do, I'll take this back off of here and I'll show you, we're going to be pressing up against this center area right here, which is the hub, right? And we want to press the hub out of the knuckle. So the way that I wanted to do it, this backing plate really isn't in the best condition, so I'm not super worried about it. For you, it's your car, it's your prerogative. I mean, this is a '95 so it is what it is. You could even take it off if you want with a couple of bolts there.

Anyway, I'm going to try to support it using the bolt heads. I'm going to go here, there, and over here as support, which is basically holding on to the knuckle, and I'm going to try to drive this down and out. When it comes out, obviously it is going to hit the floor, so you're going to want to make sure you have your feet clear. You're always going to want to make sure you're wearing hand protection and eye protection, especially once you get this going. So I'm going to suit up here. Safety is a number one concern here at 1A Auto. I can't be there to hold your hand, but I can at least mention to you to please be safe.

Okay. I've got this lined up. I'm going to try to drive that hub right out of the knuckle at this point or out of the bearing I should say. I've got this tightened. I'm sure I don't have to explain to you how to use a press. I mean, if you have one I'm assuming you already know how to do it and you also know that when you're applying pressure like this, there's always potential for mishaps where something might slip and shoot out or something might, I don't want say explode, but something might happen. Okay. So just please be safe. All right. Make sure if you have any innocent bystanders around, you don't want any little kids hanging out watching and seeing what's going on. Everybody stay away. Be safe. Wear your safety glasses.

I'm going to do this nice and slow. Okay. So I did something as simple as putting a box under there. All I want it to do is to break the fall. You can put whatever you want under there. It's what I had access to. It's coming out nice and easy at this point. There it is. So there we are. Now all we got to do is get this off of here. Okay. I'll show you how to do that in one minute.

So here we go. We're going to take our inner race out of there. We're going to put it along in the front side, being careful for our seal, unless you got a new seal. Slide it right in there. Now I'm going to take my press, I've got this right here. We're going to try to get this to ride right along there. Okay. Right along the knuckle. Do the best you can. Possible. Okay. We've got that in there. We're going to take a 36 millimeter socket and we're going to lower this down first and then we're going to put that in there. Okay. So we've got this set up. A 36 millimeter is about the approximate size of the bearing where we're going to be pressing the race. I just got a little block here to take up a little space. Okay. Got light pressure. Safety glasses. Hand protection. Just try to make sure everybody is clear, everybody is nice and safe. Safety first. If something comes shooting out you want to make sure that nobody gets hurt. I'm going to stand kind of sideways just in case.

What this should be doing is slowly pressing that bearing out of the knuckle. Nice clean knuckle and our old bearing. Easy-peasy. All right. Let's keep rolling. Okay, so I got a cool little set up here. Basically, I've got one of these. It's a little smaller. It's next to the hub, but squeezed up against where that race is stuck on the hub. Okay, so right along here, the sharp edge, that's sitting up against the race. You tighten these down, it squeezes, and then when I tighten this up right here, it's going to draw this up and I'm going to press down on this plate right here. Okay. When this comes up hopefully it's going to pull the race up with it and take it right off the hub. That's my plan.

We're going to give it a try and we'll see if it wants to work on camera. So I'm just going to slide this little spacer in here. Get it snug. Now I'm going to give this a little blast with my air gun and hopefully draw it up. You could also add a little bit of heat. I might grab the torch to see if I can get that race in there nice and warm. I'll probably try that real quick and then I'm going to go ahead and press it out. Torch here. I'm going to try to heat up the race. See if I can get it nice and warm and then I'm going to go ahead and try to blast this, hopefully press this hub out. That's my plan. So safety glasses on obviously. Flame on. Try to heat up the race.

All right. Let's give it a try. I'm going to switch my safety glasses real quick. It looks like it's working. Yup. Okay. We can only go a little bit further here. I'm going to grab a different block. Now I'm just going to readjust this. There we are. I want to try to press something in between here and here. That's the right one. So here we go again. Safety glass of course. Okay. We're bottomed-out again. All right. We'll just add one more piece in there, hopefully we'll be good. Okay.

So we've got it the majority of the way off. Still a little hot so we're not going to mess around with it too much. At this point we're going to wear some safety glasses, hand protection still of course. We're going use a little air chisel and just try to blast it right off of there. It's going to go flying so make sure everybody is safe and out of the way. Try to hold my bench still. From one side to the other. Cool beans. There's our hub. Okay.

So here we are. A quick product comparison for you. Over here we have our old bearing out of our '95 Toyota Corolla. Over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto bearing. As you can tell, they're both the exact same. Set it on top of here. It's got the same diameter, same height, same inside hole. This is just a rubber to keep the two races together. You can just pop that right out, just so you know. Same exact thing in exception of this is brand new. So I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a quality part to put in, so I'm going to go ahead and install it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Okay. So now is the time. We have the bearing out. Right along here this is the outer seal. Okay. We can take a look at it from the inside as well. If you needed to replace that or you wanted to you would do that now. You can just pop it right out. Just put a little chisel there along the edge, pop it out, and then pop in the new one. For the purpose of this video I'm not going to worry about that. I'm going to continue. I'm going to set this back on to my pressing unit. Try to get everything situated. We're going to grab our new bearing. We're going to set it in here. Here's our brand new quality bearing. When you're pressing this in, you're going to make sure that you don't press up against this center area. That's very important. If you press against the center area, you're going to end up messing up your bearing and forcing it apart and you'll have a brand new garbage bearing.

What we're going to do is we're going to use our old bearing. Essentially the race right along here is going to sit right on the brand new race. So when we're pressing we're pressing against the outer race of the bearing, not the inner portion. Super important. So you set that in as flesh as it can be. Or you know, going straight up and down as much as possible. We'll line this up. All right. Now we're going to grab a plate and a little adapter and we're going to go ahead an press this down.

So here we go. We've got our press ready. I'm just going to bring the forcing piston down, apply light pressure, make sure everything is still situated the way it needs to be, lined up as much as possible, and you want to of course have the force as close to the center on this as possible. So let's just get this close. It takes a little while, because it's a heavy duty press. So it's not about speed. It's more about power. Okay. I would say that's good to go. Safety glasses. Hand protection. And off we go. You can see the bearing going down. This is the knuckle. That's the bearing. That's the old bearing. Anyway, new bearing we want to be going in nice and slow.

Okay. We're getting real close now. I just have to get this bearing until it bottoms out. So right now it's all about feeling it. When I feel like this wants to stop, then I'm probably at the end and we'll check it. So we're going to continue with light pressure here. And just feeling, waiting for this to stop. I think that's it right there. Let's pull this off. We'll see if we can see the ring where the snap ring is going to go. I guess I can stop it there just in case. Perfect. You can see the ring or the groove I guess, all the way around. All right. Cool. Let's grab our snap ring. We've got our snap ring, some snap ring pliers. I'm just going to try to grab in the rings or in the little grooves and give it a little squeeze and try to slip it down in to the groove in the knuckle. Cool. Okay.

Now I'm just going to bring it down to its groove. It likes it there. It's happy. It's sitting all the way around inside the groove. If it was sticking out anywhere you'd want to make sure that you get it back out and press your bearing in a little further. Now that we have that in, we can move along to the next step.

Okay. So now, it's time to go ahead and start pressing through our hub. That's going to come through the front side there. It's going to come through, right? When you press that through from the front to the back, if you're not holding on to this right here, this inner ring, which is the race, you're going to just press that right out and ruin your bearing, so you just take your old race, put it there. Okay. Rest that on something like this, so that when you're pressing you're holding on to this. Not on to the knuckle. You don't want to hold on to the knuckle or the outer race of the bearing. You want to hold on to the inner race of the bearing. So I'm just going to set that like that.

Put this on there. We'll just get this little piece out of here. This just holds the two races together. So it's not needed. We can recycle that. Okay. We'll come back over here. We've got our race, the thick end, it's going to sit directly on this one. Just like that. Give it a little spin, that way we know that we're not resting on the knuckle at all. You do not want to rest on the knuckle. Cool. Just try to get it lined up here the best I can. Cool. Safety glasses. We've got our hub. Make sure it's nice and clean. Looks good. Set it where it's going to go. We remember that this seal, the rubber seal, was just barely touching up against there, so that's about where we're going to go again. Take this or whatever you've got for a lifter and maybe you don't even need a lifter.

Okay. Grab my bar here. We're going to go nice and slow. Slow and steady wins the race. You can see it pressing down right there. So we're just going to watch to make sure that this rubber seal, like I said before, comes up just barely touching that hub. Okay. That's pretty close right there. Now I'm going to go ahead and relieve pressure and I'm going to check it out. If we need to go a little more, we'll go a little more. Okay. So we've got our seal right there, going right along the hub. It's not touching. It's not going to wear out that seal. Right back here, everything looks really good. As you can tell, I didn't bring that through too far. It's not sitting flush with the outer, or sorry the inner race there. It's still in nice and deep where it's supposed to be. It looks great. I'd say we're clear to put in our seal and we'll move along.

So here's our seal. This is the outside of it. It will pretty much sit like this, right? Inside where this rubber is, there's actually a little spring that sits in there. Looks something like this. This is out of the old one. So when you're installing this if you don't put any type of... You can use something like Vaseline or some sort of paste, something just basically to hold that spring that way when you're putting this in here and you're going to drive it in the spring doesn't go just wherever it wants. So I'm just going to go ahead and use a little bit of this silicone paste because it's what I have on hand. Generally speaking, I prefer to use something like Vaseline. Let's see if I can get a little bit more here.

You don't necessarily have to pack the whole thing. You just want to make sure that you've got it pretty much running along where that spring is. It's just going to help it stay. I mean, it's not under a lot of spring tension or anything. It's just a little spring, but it is what it is. Okay. So now, where this doesn't have a seal around it, it is usually a good habit to wipe it down and put a little bit of RTV, if you have anything like that. So I'm going to go ahead and show you what I'm talking about. I'll grab a clean rag and some RTV and we'll do that.

So I'm just going to go ahead and use some of this, it's just RTV sealer. You can use whatever you've got for a sealant. It's okay if it's squiggly because I'm going to squish it all around anyway. Basically I just need this to help me make sure moisture doesn't get through and to the bearing. You want to protect that bearing. We're doing all this work to replace it, I don't want to do it again tomorrow or after the next rain storm. We'll just set that down approximately where it needs to go. Okay.

Now when you drive this down it's supposed to sit flush with the knuckle. So you can use something like this, just a little driver tool, punch. Call it what you want. Just try to see if you can get it to sit down in there. It's going to keep walking around. Once you get it started it should be okay. It's just... Cool. You can clean up your mess if you want, if you're so inclined. Couldn't hurt to at least try to give it a little bit of a wipe. That looks all right. Cool beans. If you wanted to, you can go ahead and put this back on there. It's not necessarily necessary for this, unless of course you had ABS on your vehicle. This vehicle doesn't have ABS, so this is actually a useless part, so I'll just set that aside.

So we've got this nice and clean. This rubber seal right here is what's going to rub on the axle. Okay. It looks pretty darn good to me. Let's go ahead an install this on to the vehicle. If you have a little copper never seize, it couldn't hurt to give the splines on your axle a little spritz. It's going to help you out in the long run in case you ever have to take your axle back out.

Now I'm going to go ahead and slide the splines of the axle in to my wheel bearing hub assembly that I just put together. Try to line up my ball joint studs with the control arm down there, while I slide the axle in and get the upper part of the knuckle in to the strut. So it's kind of a multi-excursion there, multi-tasking. I'm going to take my lower bolt, I'm just going to put it through. I'm not going to tighten it down or anything yet. All that's going to do is make it so this thing can't fall down, give my axle a tug, and cause me to have to replace the axle. I'd rather not. Although, now would be the time. It would be easy-peasy. You'd just pop it right out, right?

Anyway, we've got our bolt and our two nuts. A little rusted. Not too bad though. We're going to go ahead, if you wanted to use some thread locker it's your prerogative. You do you boo-boo. Let's see if I can get it started on here. This one. Not going to tighten anything down until I have all three tighten or started I mean, sorry. I'm just going to bottom all three of these out and then we'll torque them down. Okay. Bottomed out. Let's go ahead and torque them down.

So here we go. 106 foot pounds. Let's see if I can get it on there. That's snug. Okay. There we are. Torqued, torqued, torqued. Let's move along. So we've got our adjustment bolt. We're going to put it in the hole. We can see our markings. We'll line those up with the markings on there. And let's give it a try. Just shake our knuckle around. Try to get everything lined up, so it's copasetic and happy. I'll just start this on here. There we are. Okay. Now I'm going to hold this side with my wrench, with my 15 millimeter. You may or may not have this bolt, like I said. Get the knee socket on there. All I'm going to do is bottom this out and then I'm going to torque both of these down.

Make sure my lines are as closed to lined up as possible. That feels pretty good. 19. Bottom it out. There we are. Cool. Now we can go ahead and torque them down. Okay. So the bottom belt, Toyota recommends 230 foot pounds. It's up to you if you want to try to go that high, but that is the torque specification. Okay. One. This top bolt, it's a smaller thinner bolt, so the recommendation for this particular one, whether yours is different or not, is 100. If you have the original bolt, this is actually an after-market camber adjustment bolt, you would torque it to the same as the lower one. But for me, where I have the after-market camber bolt it's going to 100 foot pounds. Okay. I'm going to go 103 on this one. Like I said it's an after-market bolt. If it's not after-market, an original, you want to go with the same spec as the lower. Okay.

Here we are. Perfect. Let's move along. So we've got that cleaned out. We can put this on here. Just grab one of your lug nuts. You can try to put it on as far as you want. Bottom it out if you want, so the rotor can't move at all or at least put it on a few threads. That's going to prevent the rotor from falling off and possibly hurting you or damaging something. So the rotor can't go anywhere. With got our caliper with the bracket here. We've got our two caliper bracket bolts. If you want to use a little thread locker you can go ahead and do that. For the purpose of this video I'm not going to worry about it. I'm going to get this on here. The pads should slide right over the rotor. There we are. Just see about getting our bolts started. We're not going to fully tighten either of them.

We'll get these bolts started before we tighten any of them. There we are. Let's go ahead and snug these up and then we'll toque them down. 17 millimeter. Okay. Let's grab the torque spec for it and we'll move along. Time to torque these down. We're going to go 67 foot pounds with our 17 millimeter socket. Put it on there. There we are. See if we can grab this one up here. Looks like I might need to grab an extension. Let's see. There we are. Get our torque wrench out of here. Socket off of there. Torqued, torqued. We can move along. Okay. Here we go. You can use a little bit of thread locker. You don't necessarily have to. We've got our nut. We get it on here. I've got my little doodad there. I don't remember what we wanted to call it in the beginning. We're just going to get this bottomed out and then we're going to go ahead and do that tie rod end.

Okay. It's bottomed out. It's not fully tightened yet. We still have to torque it, but have it down on the ground with the bar. We've got our outer tie rod end here. I'm just going to go ahead and slide it in to the knuckle. There we are. I'll grab our nut. Get that on to the tie rod stud. There we are. Bottom it out. We'll get the torque spec and we'll continue. Let's go ahead and snug this down, 36 foot pounds with our 19 millimeter socket. It feels pretty good. We'll take a peek at it. Check to see if it's lined up. Looks like it's not lined up, so what we're going to need to do is we're going to need to continue tightening this nut until the slot in the nut lines up with the hole in the stud. So I'm going to use my 19 millimeter socket and my ratchet. It's very important not to loosen it at this point. You don't want to loosen it. You want to tighten it to the next hole. Okay.

Yeah. Looking good. Let's grab a new cotter pin. We'll move along. Got our cotter pin, our cutters. It's going to come from the back side of that hole. You can go from the front side if it's easier for you. Slide it through and all you need to do is peen it over. Can you go from side to side? Yeah. Can you put one on one side and one on the other? Sure. You do whatever you want, as long as it's peened over it can't come loose. This nut can't come loose on its own. You can have it however you want. Whatever looks pretty to you. Okay.

All right. So now all we got to do is we'll get this torqued up and then we'll get the wheel on. We're going to torque down our axle nut to 159 foot pounds with our 30 millimeter socket and our half inch torque wrench. There we are. Get this out of the way. We've got our little doodad there. Brand new cotter pin. Slide it through, hopefully. You can see it. Cutters. There we are. Pull it down. There we are. Get that bent up. There we are. There's no way this cotter pin will come out on its own. This won't be able to come off and then that won't be able to loosen. It looks like we're good to go. Let's bring it back up and get the wheel on.

Okay. Time to get the wheel up on here. We're just going to grab it, roll it up our leg, lift with our abs of course. We try not to use our back for stuff if we don't have to. Get a lug nut started on. I don't have to worry about that wheel falling off. Get all these started and then we'll bottom them out. Then we're going to torque them down. There we are. It's time to go ahead and torque these down, 76 foot pounds. You're going to go in a crisscross pattern. There we are. I'm just going to hit it one more time. Perfect.

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Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Hammer

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • RTV

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Pliers
  • Snap Ring Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 15mm Socket
  • 17mm Socket
  • 18mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 21mm Socket
  • 30mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Press

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 15mm Wrench
  • 19mm Wrench

1988 - 2002  Toyota  Corolla
1989 - 1990  Geo  Metro
1998 - 2002  Chevrolet  Prizm
1991 - 1997  Geo  Prizm
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